Upgrade brakes and running shifter cable under Tongsheng mid drive motor

[99t4]

I'll have to get some fenders then. I'm not using a throttle. My battery has a little flap at the top where I charge the battery. It also has a USB connector in this same area. I may need to just carry around a small ziplock to put over top in case of rain.

Should be easy enough. You could cover the display as well. Most of them don't like it when water gets inside.

 

[scrolltonowhere]

I upgraded the crank arms to some Shimanos today and tightened the silver nut that helps secure the Tongsheng TSDZ2 motor. I initially tightened the cranks too much and they wouldn't even spin. I loosened them a bit and took off for a test ride. I found that when I pedal Im still getting some creaking. It's really annoying. I'm not sure where to look next for possible causes. Any possible ideas out there?

Update: I messed around with different pedals and took the bike out again. It was still making some creaks. I started to feel like the sound may be from the handlebars. I changed those out as well. I could definitely pull them around and adjust them and eventually get the creaking to a minimum. Eventually it became a squeak. So I'm not sure if the noise is happening because the handlebars are cheap - Sunlite or I installed them incorrectly.

A side note, I think I like the cheapo common plastic pedals over some cheapo Amazon thin and wide pedals with metal spikes. No more worrying about getting my shins poked at a stoplight. I also changed the cranks and feel like the overall riding experience is much improved. I just got back and no right knee pain like I felt with the Tongsheng cranks.

 

[99t4]

Thanks Sheldon Brown

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

 

[scrolltonowhere]

I was hoping my thread would be over. However, I'm looking for bike wheel recommendations. I have a 700c 7 speed cassette with rim brakes (135mm spacing). I'm looking to possibly just replace the rear wheel because it has the terrible hop. Plus I already got rid of it. I only did a slight amount of research but could anyone weigh in if it's worth going for a double wall rim over single wall?

Also any recommendations would be helpful and appreciated

 

[Chalo]

I'm looking for bike wheel recommendations. I have a 700c 7 speed cassette with rim brakes (135mm spacing).

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5982

This is a pretty good deal that's about the same price as the rims by themselves.

You'll have to put a 4mm wide spacer behind your 7 speed cassette, to fit the 8/9/10 speed freehub body.

I only did a slight amount of research but could anyone weigh in if it's worth going for a double wall rim over single wall?

It's worth it. Width for width and weight for weight, you'll get a much stronger wheel with a double walled rim.

 

[scrolltonowhere]

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5982

This is a pretty good deal that's about the same price as the rims by themselves.

I'm wondering what's the point of upgrading to a new set for about $220 vs just going to a LBS to get a singled used rear wheel for $30-50?

 

[Chalo]

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5982

This is a pretty good deal that's about the same price as the rims by themselves.

I'm wondering what's the point of upgrading to a new set for about $220 vs just going to a LBS to get a singled used rear wheel for $30-50?

You asked for a recommendation. I gave you a link to wheels I can recommend, that you can buy.

If you can find a used wheel that ticks your boxes, cool. One of the shops where I work deals almost exclusively in used bikes and parts, and good wheels are less numerous than you'd hope. Folks don't usually cut loose perfectly good equipment. There's usually something about it that helps them make that decision.

I reckoned if you have a wheel that's damaged, you might go for one that's harder to damage this time. The ones I linked are a particularly good value in that regard, and you can find just the rear one for $129 I think. Still a solid value for a $100 rim, $30 hub, $36 spokes plus $60 labor to assemble.

Used stuff can be cheap or even free, but more often than not there's a good reason the person who bought it doesn't want it anymore. However, you can't win that gamble if you don't play. I've gotten a bunch of good wheels by scavenging used and surplus parts (though I have had to build those wheels myself).

 

[scrolltonowhere]

You asked for a recommendation. I gave you a link to wheels I can recommend, that you can buy.

Hi Chalo, I'm grateful for your recommendation. Sorry if my question came across negatively. I'm finding all these decisions to be difficult especially when I only paid $100 for the bike initially. I basically had to replace every component on it so I guess the wheels would almost be the last remaining replacement (other than the original rear derailleur, that's still holding in there). I figured if those wheels have probably been on since 1997 it's probably about time for new ones. I guess in the very least I've learned a lot about bicycle maintenance and parts and I still probably saved quite a bit building my own ebike. I'm like do I just bite the bullet and pay $200 even when partially my goal was to try to be thrifty in this project. One other thing is that I wanted to keep the weight down since I have to haul it up and down steps. Those wheels you recommended look great but may be on the heavier side. I'm still considering them though so thanks!

I bought a second bike used and converted it for my wife a few months ago. Every component on that bike was in such great condition and I only paid $250 for it. It was such an easy ebike conversion. I feel like if I ever do this again I'll at least know what to look for when I'm shopping for a used bike.

 

[scrolltonowhere]

I got the wheels you suggested and installed it with the spacer they included. It looks like they included a 4.5mm spacer instead of a 4mm. I was able to fit a 3mm allen key between the highest cog and the chainstay. When I took it out for a test spin all the gears shifted great and stayed there. However, the 7th gear kept slipping and jumping again. I'm not sure if this is due to the narrow distance between the chainstay and the highest ring or I just have to get the indexing right.

https://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5982

This is a pretty good deal that's about the same price as the rims by themselves.

You'll have to put a 4mm wide spacer behind your 7 speed cassette, to fit the 8/9/10 speed freehub body.

 

[Chalo]

You might have a clearance issue, or it might only be the high limit screw that needs attention. Look for signs of the chain making contact with the dropout (which shouldn't happen).

 

[scrolltonowhere]

You might have a clearance issue, or it might only be the high limit screw that needs attention. Look for signs of the chain making contact with the dropout (which shouldn't happen).

You were right it was the high limit screw. Hey once again Chalo thank you so much for all your help you've provided! I really appreciate all the time you've taken to answer all of my questions!

One more off topic question. I just discovered someone at some point tried to cut through my U lock. Any idea what kind of device they used in their attempt to cut through my u lock? I keep thinking it would be worth upgrading to a New York U lock or something. I'd hate for this bike to get stolen after I put all this time and money into it.

 

[Chalo]

That looks more like tire rub than attempted theft.

 

[LewTwo]

That looks more like tire rub than attempted theft.

Should not a "Rub" have more of a polish to it?
That appears to be almost a perfect circle with a slight ridge around it and a distinct pattern.

 

[99t4]

For u-locks they seem to prefer a small hydraulic jack placed in the "U" to spring it open within seconds, no noisy sparking obvious grinding needed.

Probably 2nd and 3rd would be a battery-powered angle grinder with metal cutoff wheel or a battery powered Sawzall-- your marks there are not from either of those methods.

 

[Diggs]

Probably 2nd and 3rd would be a battery-powered angle grinder with metal cutoff wheel

^ This. You can see the chatter marks and it's the tool of choice these days for bike snatches.

If the sensor on the rear wheel is not reading correctly move it closer to the axle so it has more dwell time with the magnet coming around each time. You'll get better readings.

 

[Chalo]

Probably 2nd and 3rd would be a battery-powered angle grinder with metal cutoff wheel

^ This. You can see the chatter marks and it's the tool of choice these days for bike snatches.

That doesn't explain why the mark doesn't even cut past the vinyl jacket of the shackle.

 

[Diggs]

That doesn't explain why the mark doesn't even cut past the vinyl jacket of the shackle.

Good point. I took it to be no vinyl and the steel was Parkerized/phosphate coated black. Hmmm..... I thought it looked like the chatter marks from my grinders when I've bounced around a bit.

 

[scrolltonowhere]

Two more issues came up with my bike.

One, I'm still having some issues with the creaks from my bike. I've identified it as coming from around the crank or around the bottom bracket where the Tongsheng is mounted. If I ride with no assist on a flat surface it seems like there's no sound coming from that area. If I'm riding up a hill and I'm using say 5th gear and full assist I'll definitely hear the sound with each down pedal.

Two, in the last week the chain has slipped off the front chainring twice. One time I went over a curb and then it happened when I was shifting gear. Today, I was just going up a hill and it slipped off when I shifted gears.

Just to note, after changing out the wheels, I installed a 4.5mm spacer to accommodate the new wheels I ended up tweaking the indexing a little. The shifting is working out ok, but it wasn't nearly as smooth as it was when I had someone at my LBS fine tune the indexing and the chain slips to another gear from time to time.

 

[scrolltonowhere]

I have a new problem with my bike. While I was riding my left crank arm starting coming loose. I stopped and found that the crank was wobbly and the bolt had become undone. I got home and I tightened it again. When I tried turning the crank arms now they were too stiff to hardly spin. I was able to loosen them a little that allowed it to move forward with my crank arm resistance but I can't pedal backwards.

I quickly abandoned the ride since I feel like there could be something seriously wrong and don't want to ruin anything. Does anyone know what may be going on? I wonder if this has anything to do with the squeaking from the bottom bracket/crank arm area.

 

[Chalo]

I have a new problem with my bike. While I was riding my left crank arm starting coming loose. I stopped and found that the crank was wobbly and the bolt had become undone.

You've ruined the left crank arm and must replace it. Once ridden in a loose condition, the tapered hole becomes distorted and won't stay securely fastened anymore.

There are two likely reasons for this to happen. Either the crank wasn't installed adequately tightly to begin with, or you stand right foot forward when standing up on the pedals. Either one of these things allows tiny back-and-forth movements that progressively unscrew the mounting bolt and cause the crank to move outward on the spindle. Once it's loose, pedaling forces mangle the square taper hole and destroy the crank.

On a mid drive where the front chainring isn't mounted directly to the arm, one or the other crank will always be subject to this failure. The remedy is to check it every so often for fastener tightness. Don't tighten it up aggressively every time, though, or you can gradually push the crank up the taper and split it. Just use a reasonable amount of tool torque and if the bolt doesn't tighten further, leave it alone.