Here's a nice one from the gas bike website: kipharley Laid-Back Seat Post. Don't know whether he's still selling them but he might be.spinningmagnets said:A while back, someone posted an adapter that was a beefy aluminum block with two parallel holes. It clamped a separate seatpost just behind the stock one in order to set the seat farther back (*googles furiously before boss comes back...)
Walmart Fat Bike Mongoose Beast
- Thread starter exe
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MadRhino
100 GW
Fat tire in the front rides better with a slacker steer angle. My V10 rides real good with a full 3" wide Gazzaloddi on the front, when the rear suspension sag is set to 40%. If I lift the tail a tad, I feel the difference and it doesn't ride as good as a 2.7" nevegal.
Short top tube is very bad to build high power, but with moderate power one can stretch the reach with saddle and stem NP
Short top tube is very bad to build high power, but with moderate power one can stretch the reach with saddle and stem NP
Drunkskunk
100 GW
FWIW I also had similar problems with my 4" tires on my build. wheel flop was bad, and I could actualy skid the front tire in a turn at pedal speed. I've made several adjustments and now have a very slack steering angle, which has helped alot.
That tire is heavy. The Surly Larry is only 1390 Grams
That tire is heavy. The Surly Larry is only 1390 Grams
Thud
1 MW
mark5 said:Here's a nice one from the gas bike website: kipharley Laid-Back Seat Post. Don't know whether he's still selling them but he might be.spinningmagnets said:A while back, someone posted an adapter that was a beefy aluminum block with two parallel holes. It clamped a separate seatpost just behind the stock one in order to set the seat farther back (*googles furiously before boss comes back...)
Rre you thinking of this one Spin?
I think that bike is a great starting point for a build....
negatives:
no decent brakes, needs wide canti's or discs...
general chepo components, hubs are better suited to a 16" kids trainer than a fat bike.
old school goosneck & threaded stem....I thought those were all gone these days.
Frame build looks like its fully welded on the dropouts & chain/seat stays (a lot of BSO's are just crimped)
a little thin, but would take a bmx axle block/chain adjuster.
Just the tires & rims make the thing hard to pass up....
I been drooling on a necromancer sitting on the floor in a LBS....but $1900 is unjustifiable....when I am saving pennys for on of greenmachines fatbike set ups.
now this one is tempting me.....I still need to re-lace some decent hoops into my other mongoose29er.....
Get thee behind me Devil!
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Yes!...I thought it would be stronger with two of those, top one on the seat-post, the bottom one on the seat-tube, but it stuck in the back of my mind. I should have known it was in one of your posts!
Kip Harley Laid-Back Seat Post triker@metrocast.net
Chalo
100 TW
Drunkskunk said:
Though I'm sure the strange tires help exaggerate the symptoms, that's a weight distribution thing. Without enough weight on the front wheel, it can skid in turns or stops. Either a shorter front center or a longer rear end helps correct it.
Chalo said:
Yah! A really really light front end is a bad thing..
The worst bike you could ever have is one of those stretch cruiser type things with the rider almost sitting right over the rear tire.
Every single bump on the rear wheel goes straight to your ass, you can't use as much of your body weight to turn, it's bad news.
And if you have high power, then the bike is more prone to doing wheelies. Just bad news!
I like the rider weight as close to the center of the bike as possible. That's why i'm a fan of cargo bikes and midtails now. They ride more confident than any other bike i've tried.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Chalo said:
Originaly I thought the same thing, and I've seen that happen on tricycles too. But the symptom got worse when I leaned forward over the bars on this bike, so it wasn't the same thing. In this case the tire was rolling on the rim much the way a flat tire will try to roll off the rim. Big volume, extra flexable, low pressure tires are going to suffer from this.
The first part of the cure was running the pressure up above 25psi. That made it more ridable, but softening up the rear shock by 100lbs and laying the front shock back did even more good. In the end, I found keeping a high amount of layback did the most good.
Chalo
100 TW
Drunkskunk said:
This is good intel. What rim and tire were you using on the front?
I have crashed from fat front tires rolling to the side of the rim before. In my case it was very supple 2.2 to 2.6 inch tires from ancient days, mounted on 19-20mm wide rims. (Fisher Fattrax and Beartrax, Specialized Ground Control Extreme 2.5, Matrix Iso-C ATB rims, to be specific.) Those experiences taught me that if you're going to use a fat tire on a narrow rim, you have to use higher pressure than would otherwise be necessary.
The flip side of that is, fat tires on narrow rims have superb suspension characteristics. Using the same tire on a wide rim and a narrow rim, you have to use substantially lower pressure on the wide rim to yield the same compliance as on the narrow rim. But the tire on the wide rim is much less likely to tuck under in a hard corner.
On the closest thing to a fatbike I own (custom made for 26x3.0 tires back when those were revolutionary), I use a 45mm wide rim on the back, and a 35mm wide for the updated 29er front. In both cases, the inside width of the rim is pretty close to half as wide as its tire. That's my rule of thumb. I violate it when using ultra-narrow aero road rims, and I would violate it with any of the 80-100mm wide rims out there (if I had any).
But my experimentally derived rule of thumb, applied to fatbike rims and tires, would have any true fatbike tire paired up with one of the 65mm rims for best results, and not one of the 80-100mm rims. Hmmm....
Thud
1 MW
I am weak. 
My beast arrived today.....only blue left in stock....they are selling out fast & I have no idea how fast they will be re-stocked.
I just put together the Beast & took it up & down my dirt road....
The bike is defiantly a budget bike......the stock hubs are what you expect for the price.....& I'll say, this is the 2nd worst coaster brake I have ever ridden. Squeals & pedal feedback is crap....
But the rides like a fat tire bike should....maybe a little over geared but really not terrible for a single speed.
No front end wash out to speak of on the loose stuff, at a low speed crawl the steering feels like a 4" tire.....but at normal cadence the ride & steering is quite standard.
Defiantly not the pugsly I rode though Venice beach...but what is? (Other than the real deal)
I have some braze-on brake studs for some big cantilevers front & rear. I am thinking a chain puller without freewheeling cranks.
This one is 4 th in line of my projects.....gotta get Greg's bike done this month.
My beast arrived today.....only blue left in stock....they are selling out fast & I have no idea how fast they will be re-stocked.
I just put together the Beast & took it up & down my dirt road....
The bike is defiantly a budget bike......the stock hubs are what you expect for the price.....& I'll say, this is the 2nd worst coaster brake I have ever ridden. Squeals & pedal feedback is crap....
But the rides like a fat tire bike should....maybe a little over geared but really not terrible for a single speed.
No front end wash out to speak of on the loose stuff, at a low speed crawl the steering feels like a 4" tire.....but at normal cadence the ride & steering is quite standard.
Defiantly not the pugsly I rode though Venice beach...but what is? (Other than the real deal)
I have some braze-on brake studs for some big cantilevers front & rear. I am thinking a chain puller without freewheeling cranks.
This one is 4 th in line of my projects.....gotta get Greg's bike done this month.
Chalo
100 TW
Thud said:
Sounds short on grease. Open it up and load it with just about as much high temperature moly-fortified grease as it will hold. If you don't have a 15mm cone wrench to do the sprocket side, just open the brake arm side and cram it full on that end.
I have never encountered a coaster brake so bad that it wasn't OK when full of fresh grease. At worst they get indented by the teeth on the shuttle and make a "bzzzzzzz" sound while coasting.
jateureka
10 kW
Thud said:
Seems true.
Just looking at the cruisers, for a wheel set with tyres & tubes, 26" x 57mm wide rim, but probably slightly better quality, you'll pay $229 http://www.3gbikes.com/parts/wheels/26x57wheelandtire/
I have an Electra Sparker Special cruiser bike which runs a 24 x 3" Fatti-o tyre on the rear at $34.99 and a 26 x 2.125 Retrorunner on the front at $25.99. http://store.electrabike.com/eSource/ecom/eSource/items/items-2-S0-lV1tirestubes-lV2.aspx?store=
The front wheel is $49.99 for 26 x 32mm wide rim, but not sure on the price of the rear, its 24 x 36mm wide. http://store.electrabike.com/eSourc...tems-2-S0-lV1wheelshubs-lV2wheels.aspx?store=
Attachments
Thud
1 MW
This cracked me up:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq0-drRmvNM&feature=player_embedded&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DDq0-drRmvNM%26feature%3Dplayer_embedded
Bawhahaha:
http://www.bikemag.com/news/news-fat-and-furious/
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq0-drRmvNM&feature=player_embedded&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DDq0-drRmvNM%26feature%3Dplayer_embedded
Bawhahaha:
http://www.bikemag.com/news/news-fat-and-furious/
cal3thousand
10 MW
Thud said:
That's awesome!! Beastly indeed!
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