Want to move away from Proprietary to Mainstream

This is exactly the reason why I keep the distance from proprietary systems.

If I were you I would cut my losses and convert new bike with generic and tested kit.
Why on earth would I cut a loss of $2500 CDN? The Bike itself is excellent for me as a 6' 3" rider at 260lbs. It's an excellent battery and all I need to do is maybe throw in a BB Torque Sensor that is compatible with the new Display and Controller. The rest is virtually a no brainer for connectivity. At least that is what it sounds like to me from what I am interpreting?
 
That's prebuilts for ya, they remove all the information on your components so you can be beholden to them for parts.

You are lucky if you can get one ID'd, you're usually out of luck because there's hundreds of Chinese makers of parts out there, many are short lived.

I got support for my phaserunner 10 years after it was made, support for DIY components from major companies is really good.. and despite the higher price, this well built stuff lasts a lot longer.. so it is actually cheaper in the long run since i'm not going through a constant churn of low quality parts.

I would google the model number of your controller, see if you can find a replacement on aliexpress or something.
 
Yeah..... I cant believe that the info on these motors is not published somewhere? They have sold a ton of these Mokwheel Basalt in the US and tons of group posts about how many miles these happy owners have put on them. I'm just not one of the lucky ones I guess being Canadian and all. Go ahead.... tell me how sorry you are for me:cry:
Obviously so far nobody here has any experience with these Mokwheel Basalts. Evidently you found tons of posts somewhere from happy owners? None ever had a similar problem to yours? I don't feel sorry for you but have you tried posting your problem to those tons of other Mokwheel Basalt owners you found? Maybe one of them has experienced similar and has a solution for you? Or possibly found a way for better support that could be of use to you? Why should it matter if you are in Canada or US? Actually many of us here in the US are envious of you in Canada because you don't get hit with the high customs fees for the (high quality) Grintech merchandise! (BC-based).

Lots of experience here on this forum but if yours is a proprietary system the barrier to hacking it is high. Important questions for you to answer:
  • How many discrete wires connect the battery to the controller?
  • Controller to the motor?

Those answers might tell us how easy it might be for you to substitute components without too much extra work.

Would you be willing to substitute PAS + throttle for the torque sensor?
 
Both brake wires have quick disconnects and I tried that. The normal state must be open because the same error comes up upon power up when they are disconnected. Applying the brakes would normally disengage the motor and that is what briefly (2 sec. resumes operation of the display.
This doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps we should presume the brake switches are NC? If so, then disconnecting them would cause your no power condition. Do you have a multimeter you could use to test the brake switches?

What does this mean? (confusing):
Applying the brakes would normally disengage the motor and that is what briefly (2 sec. resumes operation of the display.
 
Obviously so far nobody here has any experience with these Mokwheel Basalts. Evidently you found tons of posts somewhere from happy owners? None ever had a similar problem to yours? I don't feel sorry for you but have you tried posting your problem to those tons of other Mokwheel Basalt owners you found? Maybe one of them has experienced similar and has a solution for you? Or possibly found a way for better support that could be of use to you? Why should it matter if you are in Canada or US? Actually many of us here in the US are envious of you in Canada because you don't get hit with the high customs fees for the (high quality) Grintech merchandise! (BC-based).

Lots of experience here on this forum but if yours is a proprietary system the barrier to hacking it is high. Important questions for you to answer:
  • How many discrete wires connect the battery to the controller?
  • Controller to the motor?

Those answers might tell us how easy it might be for you to substitute components without too much extra work.

Would you be willing to substitute PAS + throttle for the torque sensor?
The Mokwheel groups are not Technical at all. I posted a poll and although it was not a very accurate representation dues to the nature of why people come to these groups, it showed 71% of owners were happy. The rest like me had problems getting support and or parts.
Anyway you have been very helpful thus far and thank you for that. I just found out that they are shipping me a new Display which they refer to as a “Code Table” fix. I still want to be prepared to do the conversion though. I also found out that the motor is Bafang and I believe mine is the H550. Perhaps I will update you so there is some content that may help Mom owners in the future. I am going to trace all the wires and add some photos.
Thanks again TTYL
 
...and all I need to do is maybe throw in a BB Torque Sensor that is compatible with the new Display and Controller.
That's the problem. There aren't any after market controllers with torque sensor inputs that I know about. You can go to Grin at ebikes.ca in Vancouver/ They sell a torque sensor and a display unit that can convert the torque sensor signal to a throttle voltage. Then you pipe that into your typical controller. It might work with the Mokwheel sensor. If not, you buy a torque sensing bottom nracket. You're looking at about $250 USD. I think it's better to get the more compact Mokwheel package working,

When there are comm errors, the culprits are the controller, display and the handlebar harness (connectors). Replacing all three should eventually do it, Wholesale, whoever builds the bike for MoKwheel gets all three for under 100 bucks USD.
 
This doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps we should presume the brake switches are NC? If so, then disconnecting them would cause your no power condition. Do you have a multimeter you could use to test the brake switches?

What does this mean? (confusing):
Sorry about the confusion. What I am trying to say is that brief activation of the brake circuit removes error displayed for a few seconds. Testing operations during that brief period before the error returns, I was able to prove that headlight, horn, brake light and motor actually do work. When it first happened I was able to engage the motor for about 3-4 seconds before the error returned and cut power. I kept activating brake circuit to briefly resume operation for that short period to help get me home.
 
Mokwheel is so slow at responding and sending parts that my two year warranty will be over by the time they get to me. If they were in Canada I would take them to small claims court
Query them to find out when the parts are due to arrive (tracking info?). Document with them when the problem started and request assurance that the issue will be solved before warrantee is up. Or get it extended.

Your momentary brake lever application to keep the system running is puzzling. Have you clearly reported that failure mode to them? Hoping it will help them send you the correct parts. What a PIA.
 
Query them to find out when the parts are due to arrive (tracking info?). Document with them when the problem started and request assurance that the issue will be solved before warrantee is up. Or get it extended.

Your momentary brake lever application to keep the system running is puzzling. Have you clearly reported that failure mode to them? Hoping it will help them send you the correct parts. What a PIA.
I did clearly report the issue and sent them a video. They determined it to be “Code Table” (Display module). They just told me on Friday that they are shipping the part soon
 
Excellent question Smithers… Unfortunately it just reverts back to Comm Error. In fact if I apply without letting go the error does not go away at all. I have to tap quickly in succession. Another anomaly is that it only goes away for a 1-2 seconds sometimes and the first time it will display low battery power, and on the next moment it will show the full battery power. Did you see my video at the beginning of the post?
 
I believe comm errors would refer to the serial data link between the display and the controller. If you have a broken wire or loose connector, it can be simple to correct. If it's a noisy system, I suppose it could be quite problematic. It's mainly Display --- Harness--- Controller. If you eventually replace all three, it will probably go away, Won't Mokwheel customer service respond under warranty?

Tapping the brakes causes the controller to notify the display, This might poke it out of its "Comm Error" status to show a normal screen. If you are riding, the controller gets its throttle and pedal sensor input and tries to run the motor, Then the display must try do something else that results in the Comm Error again, and it shuts down the motor.

Since you have a torque sensor, the third party controller isn't a viable option. Normally with simpler ebikes, the controllers plus displays are often replaced with something that works better and is less money than paying the bike vendor markups on their units. You're probably replacing with Mokwheel parts. Not to say that you couldn't do it with off-the-shelf-parts, but it would likely be $200-300 USD.

If you're desperate, and a good tech person, you might look at the display-controller pin connections. If it's like most displays,
it can be bypassed, but only if one undertands the interface.
Well I may have found my issue but no way to tell for sure without cutting my cable and I do not want to do that. While performing continuity testing from Handlebar harness to Controller, I found a pinout from 3 wire display cable that was unaccounted for at controller. I have 10 pins at controller and all are accounted for except 1, could it be unused at both ends?
 
The dangling wire might be an unused light wire. Seems like Mokwheel is trying to help.

I think squeezing the brakes sends a message from the controller to the display telling it to light an icon on the display, This appears to wake up the controller to the extent that it clears the Comm Error, but then it falls back into a coma. It probably is a display that is unable to understand messages, hence a comm error,

If the new display don't do it, then ask for a replacement controller,
 
The dangling wire might be an unused light wire. Seems like Mokwheel is trying to help.

I think squeezing the brakes sends a message from the controller to the display telling it to light an icon on the display, This appears to wake up the controller to the extent that it clears the Comm Error, but then it falls back into a coma. It probably is a display that is unable to understand messages, hence a comm error,

If the new display don't do it, then ask for a replacement controller,
There is no wire dangling. I disconnected all cables at handlebars and tested continuity to the disconnect at the controller. There is one that does not have any continuity but it may be unused, I don't know.
As far as Mokwheel helping.... yes they are assuming my problem to be display related and sending me a new one. It might take a while because it is coming from China and has already been 10 days since it was shipped and still not left China.
 
Back
Top