Warning to Yuba Owners - don't use large rotors

Chalo said:
......the spring constant will be all wrong.

And of course, just like on a single bike, a boingy fork squanders some variable percentage of the rider's muscle power just moving the bike and rider up and down. Because the pedals are proportionally closer to the fork on a longtail, this effect will be relatively exaggerated as a result.

Chalo

None of your concerns reveal themselves to me in reality with my set of Rockshox Domain Dual crowns installed on my Yuba with the standard (mid weight) spring, and compression and rebound settings set very, very low. That includes the bike being loaded with 3x ~75kg (150lb) adults.
 
flathill said:
Chalo said:
There are a few ways it could be a manufacturer defect, but it doesn't look like a grievous lack of due diligence to me.

Huh? Did you read the slimy lawyer speak manual saying using any type of brake is risky behavior
I mean what is someone thinking using a brake
don't they know that is risky :roll:

"We strongly recommend rim and/or disc brakes, though these carry their own risks:
under severe loads (as when carrying a passenger or cargo at high speed a very strong front brake can lead to
failure of the front fork. For this reason, don't use the front brake by itself; the rear or rear and front brake
should be used in all braking situations."

I'll be sure to use my rear brake in ALL situations like rain or down super steep hills where it is worthless
oh and I've never had a rear brake break (cable snap or hydro blowout) or overheat on a CARGO bike in an emergency braking situation
it is criminal to use a standard cruiser grade fork made for cruiser bikes with no front brake

Feel free to get all wound up about it, but the rear brake is more important on a longtail or a tandem, because the forward weight shift is much more attenuated. And as I pointed out already, the longer the wheelbase, the more hurt you can put on the fork just from braking. That's reason enough to emphasize the use of the rear brake, which may not come naturally to some riders accustomed to single bikes of normal length.

Anyway, it doesn't look to me like they necessarily used a substandard fork; only that it's possible to put extraordinary loads on it by using a very strong front brake by itself. And it appears they mentioned that in the manual. I suspect an engineer, rather than a lawyer, put that part in.

Chalo
 
boostjuice said:
Chalo said:
......the spring constant will be all wrong.

And of course, just like on a single bike, a boingy fork squanders some variable percentage of the rider's muscle power just moving the bike and rider up and down. Because the pedals are proportionally closer to the fork on a longtail, this effect will be relatively exaggerated as a result.

None of your concerns reveal themselves to me in reality with my set of Rockshox Domain Dual crowns installed on my Yuba with the standard (mid weight) spring, and compression and rebound settings set very, very low. That includes the bike being loaded with 3x ~75kg (150lb) adults.

Use a zip tie around the fork stanchion to determine how much static sag you get with such a load. I'm guessing 2-3 times the recommended 20-25%. You can approve of the way that behaves, but would still be all wrong in terms of spring constant.

If your fork is not bobbing inefficiently when you pedal hard, that's probably because it's sagged most of the way down (and perhaps also because you don't pedal hard). Which is your prerogative of course, but in my opinion is a dumb way to waste money and maintenance on suspension.

Chalo
 
Farfle said:
A failure of a fork like that is unacceptable. You should be tearing the headtube off the bike before the fork fails. Whether that is from braking forces or from being heavily loaded.

I have bent literally dozens of forks myself in the last 25 years, usually without harm to the frame. Most of my experience with other people's bikes as a shop mechanic also suggests that the fork will bend before the frame in most instances. I have seen a few old '70s and '80s road bikes with small diameter tubing whose frames bent before the fork did, but they are the rare exceptions to the general rule.

It's also generally true that a failed fork will be noticeably bent, but rarely enough to render the bike unridable unless it was in a frontal collision. They bend forwards from having been jumped, and backwards from braking, deep potholes, or running into things.

A bent fork that spares the frame a fatal overload results in a much cheaper repair.

Chalo
 
Chalo said:
flathill said:
Chalo said:
There are a few ways it could be a manufacturer defect, but it doesn't look like a grievous lack of due diligence to me.

Huh? Did you read the slimy lawyer speak manual saying using any type of brake is risky behavior
I mean what is someone thinking using a brake
don't they know that is risky :roll:

"We strongly recommend rim and/or disc brakes, though these carry their own risks:
under severe loads (as when carrying a passenger or cargo at high speed a very strong front brake can lead to
failure of the front fork. For this reason, don't use the front brake by itself; the rear or rear and front brake
should be used in all braking situations."

I'll be sure to use my rear brake in ALL situations like rain or down super steep hills where it is worthless
oh and I've never had a rear brake break (cable snap or hydro blowout) or overheat on a CARGO bike in an emergency braking situation
it is criminal to use a standard cruiser grade fork made for cruiser bikes with no front brake

Feel free to get all wound up about it, but the rear brake is more important on a longtail or a tandem, because the forward weight shift is much more attenuated. And as I pointed out already, the longer the wheelbase, the more hurt you can put on the fork just from braking. That's reason enough to emphasize the use of the rear brake, which may not come naturally to some riders accustomed to single bikes of normal length.

Anyway, it doesn't look to me like they necessarily used a substandard fork; only that it's possible to put extraordinary loads on it by using a very strong front brake by itself. And it appears they mentioned that in the manual. I suspect an engineer, rather than a lawyer, put that part in.

Chalo

Rear brakes do not work in the rain or very steep hills
What are extra ordinary braking loads?
Maybe the brakes should have a warning:
Do not use for rapid deceleration
Apply brakes gingerly in an emergency situation and brake using both brakes and your feet

If the fork cant hold up to braking there is no way in hell it would survive a pothole
I have bents tons of forks riding bmx (but never from simply braking or even doing endos) the difference is this bike is used for hauling kids and should be overbuilt not have some bullshit brake warning
 
Chalo said:
If your fork is not bobbing inefficiently when you pedal hard, that's probably because it's sagged most of the way down (and perhaps also because you don't pedal hard). Which is your prerogative of course, but in my opinion is a dumb way to waste money and maintenance on suspension.

Chalo

I notice very little difference in static sag between light and heavy loading as most of the cargo weight is close to being over the rear wheel. As to be expected though, under heavy braking there is more dynamic compression with heavier loads, but that doesnt feel detrimental/uncontrollable to me with a slowish rebound setting.

I also notice no more pedal bob when standing and cranking relative to my DH bike with Rockshox Boxxer's (with a lighter spring & minimum Comp/rebound) and a locked out rear shock (for comparisions sake with a hardtail).

In a nutshell, the difference in ride comfort and front tyre grip between the original rigid and a suspension fork is dramatic. I no longer fear approaching significant surface inconsistancies at higher speeds that would originally jar my wrists and have the front wheel skipping and bouncing around like a shopping trolley. There is also no way i'd have plans to power the bike with an Agni 95R without front suspension either. Wheel tracking/grip is now soooo much better at higher speeds.

So long as you get rigid in the pants about rigid forks, we'll just have to agree to disagree
 
flathill said:
Rear brakes do not work in the rain or very steep hills

I'm not at all sure what you're talking about here. The rear brake is the brake of first resort in limited traction situations, because sliding the front wheel usually results in a fall.

I understand where you're coming from about using a rear brake on very steep downhills-- when the bike in question is on a normal wheelbase of roughly one meter. But the longer the wheelbase becomes, the more weight remains on the rear wheel during braking, even downhill.

What are extra ordinary braking loads?

The limitation on how hard a bike can brake is dictated by the torque required to cause tip-up. Torque is a force perpendicular to a radius, times the radius. Cargo bikes are heavier than regular bikes even when empty, and they can carry heavier loads. That increases the force part of the torque equation. The wheelbase of a cargo bike is longer than the wheelbase of a normal bike, which increases the radius part of the torque equation. Even at a modest 1.5 times the working weight and 1.5 times the wheelbase, that's 2.25 times the braking torque before it tips up.

So for a longer than normal, heavier than normal longtail bike, the upper limit on braking has been raised substantially. That's what I mean by extraordinary braking loads. Not those that are equal to maximum stops on a normal bike, but those that are harder yet. The stops so forceful you can only do them on a long wheelbase bike.

Maybe the brakes should have a warning:
Do not use for rapid deceleration
Apply brakes gingerly in an emergency situation and brake using both brakes and your feet

I am getting the idea that you really don't understand that a long bike can decelerate much harder than a short bike. It's not gingerly deceleration we're talking about. It's deceleration in excess of what's even possible on a regular length bike. Yes, it would be a good idea to have equipment that would withstand more forceful braking than what we normally consider the maximum, since it's possible on the long bike. But I think it's a leap to say that they did something wrong by furnishing equipment that probably withstands those typical-maximum braking forces.

Since this is a bike we're talking about, with customary dimensions and components, if you beef up the fork enough, you'll wreck the frame instead. Beef that up, and the headset gives out. Manufacture and install a special proprietary headset, and then the disc brake mounting tab bends. Fix that, and a normal rotor and hub become the weak link in the system. Etc., etc., etc. Next thing you know, you've added 20 pounds to the bike and a thousand dollars to the retail price. That starts to make a note of warning in the owner's manual look like a pretty reasonable alternative.

Chalo
 
boostjuice said:
In a nutshell, the difference in ride comfort and front tyre grip between the original rigid and a suspension fork is dramatic. I no longer fear approaching significant surface inconsistancies at higher speeds that would originally jar my wrists and have the front wheel skipping and bouncing around like a shopping trolley.

Sounds like you need to get your head around appropriate tire inflation pressures. CST Cyclops or Maxxis Hookworm tires at 25psi would not fail to deliver comfort or grip. I use my 26 x 3.0" Kenda Kraze slicks at 15-18psi front, 22-25psi rear, with an unsuspended bike/rider combo of close to 375 pounds. On that bike, I ride through potholes on purpose, just for fun.

It should go without saying that fat soft tires are much lighter, more efficient, lower maintenance, and far less expensive than mechanical suspension, in keeping with the bicycle ethos.

Chalo
 
Chalo said:
flathill said:
Rear brakes do not work in the rain or very steep hills

I'm not at all sure what you're talking about here. The rear brake is the brake of first resort in limited traction situations, because sliding the front wheel usually results in a fall.

I understand where you're coming from about using a rear brake on very steep downhills-- when the bike in question is on a normal wheelbase of roughly one meter. But the longer the wheelbase becomes, the more weight remains on the rear wheel during braking, even downhill.

What are extra ordinary braking loads?

The limitation on how hard a bike can brake is dictated by the torque required to cause tip-up. Torque is a force perpendicular to a radius, times the radius. Cargo bikes are heavier than regular bikes even when empty, and they can carry heavier loads. That increases the force part of the torque equation. The wheelbase of a cargo bike is longer than the wheelbase of a normal bike, which increases the radius part of the torque equation. Even at a modest 1.5 times the working weight and 1.5 times the wheelbase, that's 2.25 times the braking torque before it tips up.

So for a longer than normal, heavier than normal longtail bike, the upper limit on braking has been raised substantially. That's what I mean by extraordinary braking loads. Not those that are equal to maximum stops on a normal bike, but those that are harder yet. The stops so forceful you can only do them on a long wheelbase bike.

Maybe the brakes should have a warning:
Do not use for rapid deceleration
Apply brakes gingerly in an emergency situation and brake using both brakes and your feet

I am getting the idea that you really don't understand that a long bike can decelerate much harder than a short bike. It's not gingerly deceleration we're talking about. It's deceleration in excess of what's even possible on a regular length bike. Yes, it would be a good idea to have equipment that would withstand more forceful braking than what we normally consider the maximum, since it's possible on the long bike. But I think it's a leap to say that they did something wrong by furnishing equipment that probably withstands those typical-maximum braking forces.

Since this is a bike we're talking about, with customary dimensions and components, if you beef up the fork enough, you'll wreck the frame instead. Beef that up, and the headset gives out. Manufacture and install a special proprietary headset, and then the disc brake mounting tab bends. Fix that, and a normal rotor and hub become the weak link in the system. Etc., etc., etc. Next thing you know, you've added 20 pounds to the bike and a thousand dollars to the retail price. That starts to make a note of warning in the owner's manual look like a pretty reasonable alternative.

Chalo

Im not really sure what your talking about. In the rain I can skid an extracycle bike the entire block if locking the rear brake on a steep hill here in SF. Dont lock the wheel but thats not the point. I get it. It is all about weight transfer. Look at the telsa model s. one of the only cars I can think of that has larger rear rotors than front rotors but guess if the fronts or backs are going to be braking more on a downhill or in the rain. And a heavy long tail is never going to slow "harder" (faster) than a light short tail. In an emergency braking situstion the rear wheel will be useless in either case. Kinda like want to add fwd to a motorcycle to acceleate faster. Max accel is wheelie mode so there is no point. Max decel is A controlled stoppie (even though motor gp riders threshold brake because they are not computers) A lower cg will allow for more brake force before tipping but in the rain your generally limited by wheel lock. Conventional wisdom says you cant endo a cargo bike or tandem but ive done it on a tandem with only me and probably could do it with two people with slick front tires and massive brakes (conventional wisdom also assumes your not going downhill so the thinking is the front wheel will lock before the rear tire lifts)
 
My before and after comparison of forks was based on running a 2.5" hookworm@30psi on the rear and a 2.1" Marathon Plus on the front @30psi.

Balloon tyres even at super low pressures still dont come close to a decent quality suspension fork in terms of pliability. And if the pressure is low enough to add significant compliance, then they have the rolling resistance on ashphalt like a MTB tyre rolls in mud. Fark that, not for me.
 
As someone with little experience of long or cargo bikes, my expectations would be that I could brake hard and the limitation would be the bike lifting, or the front wheel locking up. Exactly as it is on a normal bike, motorcycle etc. My car can't do an endo, but I also know the front suspension won't collapse if I brake "too hard"!

IMO your average user will be unaware of the specific dynamics of a cargo bike, and it's reasonable to expect that in an emergency they may well grab a lot of front brake. If this situation could forseeably result in fork failure, then IMO this is negligent design.
 
This is an interesting debate about extreme braking, but what has gotten lost in this mix is the OP stated he was never braking hard on his front brakes at extremes. When the accident happened he states he was not going fast, and he is not a heavy guy. It sounds as if he was going on level ground maybe 15mph if that.

Now, if true, this is a WTF is going on with this FF failure???

Luckily I was not going fast when this happened, but whilst braking (not suddenly or heavily), the forks on my Yuba collapsed and I crashed. As I said, I wasn't going fast so was only bruised, but if I had been going downhill it could have been possibly fatal.

Philistine, how fast would you estimate you were going??? :?:
 
I work at a bike shop. We've had a similar issue with a yuba v4 front fork in a very low speed crash (fork did not impact anything, bike went down in a turn). The fork just folded. My personal opinion is that the v4 fork is junk and has design flaws. I don't understand why they used a bladed shape with bends that look like stress risers (to me). My advice would be to not accept a v4 fork as a replacement. See if Yuba has any of the old tubular v3 forks available.
 
and he is not a heavy guy.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Devries, but my therapist would disagree.... Seriously though, these things are all relative, but I am not light (95kg - 210Ibs for the Seppos). But I had four ammo cans bolted to the bike (the picture in the link only has two, I added two more), and every day I travelled around with myself, and most often with two kids on it. Importantly it has a X5 in the rear. An idea of the kind of weight stress I was carrying around (I think) can be indicated by the fact that I went through/broke over time maybe 20 spokes in the X5 (ie, on about four or five occassions I broke four or so spokes at a time). I have never otherwise had X5 spokes break (being 12 guage) - and have run two other X5s at double the current (this yuba was running on 12S@50amps, my other X5s on different bikes which have never broken spokes have run on 20S@50amps). So I guess what I am saying is that clearly there was some weight being carried, and the bike was operating as my sole form of transport all over town.

Maybe most indicative of the overrall weight of the bike, is the fact that I literally struggled to pick up the rear. I am not a weeny guy, I used to bench press 100kg when I was young and fit, and the weight of the world hadn't crushed my soul, I concede that I weigh the same as then but can only lift half that now perhaps (my pecs have become moobs, and years of alcohol abuse have feminised my physique), but that is beside the point, quite seriously, I thought about it when I put it in a trailer to get it home (after the crash, which occured just outside my office on the way home), that I could barely lift the rear up into the trailer.

When you add the weight of a hopeless fat bastard to that weight, and his two kids, then I can only guess what the weight might be getting up to (mainly because I can't count very well).

But seriously right off the bat, when I moved to disc brakes (they come standard as rim), I instantly was concerned by how under medium braking the forks would sort of twitch, and under heavy sudden breaking, you could really see them move. I showed it to my bike mechanic who is a really clever guy, and he instantly agreed with me, and said he felt I should replace the fork. He didn't think the fork was specifically defective, he just agreed with me that it was not up to the job. I thanked him for confirming my concerns, and assured him I would act on his advice.

The problem was I became obsessed with the pending Euro crisis (this was a few weeks ago), and preparing for the collapse of the EU and the Euro, and what I was confident would ultimately become a coup in Greece and potentially military conflict with Turkey, that I put the forks down my priority list. I also became obsessed in a mania kind of way with the ideas of George Soros, the reflexive nature of markets, how that relates to Popper's fallibity, the Logico Tractatus, the uncertainty principle, how that might relate to Godel's Incompleteness Theorem, how that might relate to quantum entanglement, and the nature of consciousness. ES member Toolman2 can attest to the questionable mental state I had got myself into, he had to put up with 2 hours of me trying to explain it to him late one night, when I was a little tired and emotional.

Anyway, I am rambling, but I returned to earth intellectually when I realised that people who matter were understanding my financial predictions, but could not understand a word I was saying about how it related to quantum physics and I suspected a good old fashioned sectioning might not be too far away. Ironically it was after a day of trying to convince others of a particular financial forecast that I was making, which ended in me maniacally screaming about how I had become "perfectly adapted to identify risk", to which they all shook their heads and looked concerned at each other, and left the room. About two hours later I was calmly riding my Yuba home (on my own), probably doing about 15-20 kph, up a very mild hill, leaving traffic lights, when I was attempting to merge but a line of cars wouldn't let me move over so I had to brake to let them all pass so I could move over (effectively I was running out of lane), so I grabbed my brakes (not to stop instantly, just slow down), and I heard a crunching noise and the next thing I knew I was on the ground. Just to be clear, there were no cars in front of me, the forks just collapsed under that amount of braking.

In hindsight, when I had left home that morning, when I went over a slight gutter, I heard a pinging noise (which I stopped for, it was that loud, but I presumed it was a broken spoke, after confirming it wasn't that I thought nothing of it). In hindsight, I think that was the first cracking, and the breaking of it later on the way home was the failure that had already started.

But you can imagine the irony for me, that the thing I most feared (a Euro collapse triggered by Greece electing a bunch of insane socialists) was in fact not to occur, but the danger it entails remains perhaps bigger and more lethal, but the thing I was concerned about enough to talk to my mechanic about, but then do nothing about and not think of again, did occur, but proved to be not that bad.

I have no problems at all with Yuba, and probably won't even be asking for compensation on the fork. I think it is a great bike, I just wanted to make sure noone else on here got hurt from a fork failure, because I personally believe it will happen at some point to someone else (and I have written to them, and hope they act on it). They just need to put in a stronger fork, and emphasise the need for a rear brake to be used in conjunction (I only didn't do that because my 5304 is non-disc).

Anyway, none of it matters, as I am alive, and I will be selling the Yuba, so I can buy more physical gold, seeds, and shotgun shells.......
 
flathill said:
Chalo said:
flathill said:
Rear brakes do not work in the rain or very steep hills

I'm not at all sure what you're talking about here. The rear brake is the brake of first resort in limited traction situations, because sliding the front wheel usually results in a fall.

I understand where you're coming from about using a rear brake on very steep downhills-- when the bike in question is on a normal wheelbase of roughly one meter. But the longer the wheelbase becomes, the more weight remains on the rear wheel during braking, even downhill.

What are extra ordinary braking loads?

The limitation on how hard a bike can brake is dictated by the torque required to cause tip-up. Torque is a force perpendicular to a radius, times the radius. Cargo bikes are heavier than regular bikes even when empty, and they can carry heavier loads. That increases the force part of the torque equation. The wheelbase of a cargo bike is longer than the wheelbase of a normal bike, which increases the radius part of the torque equation. Even at a modest 1.5 times the working weight and 1.5 times the wheelbase, that's 2.25 times the braking torque before it tips up.

So for a longer than normal, heavier than normal longtail bike, the upper limit on braking has been raised substantially. That's what I mean by extraordinary braking loads. Not those that are equal to maximum stops on a normal bike, but those that are harder yet. The stops so forceful you can only do them on a long wheelbase bike.

Maybe the brakes should have a warning:
Do not use for rapid deceleration
Apply brakes gingerly in an emergency situation and brake using both brakes and your feet

I am getting the idea that you really don't understand that a long bike can decelerate much harder than a short bike. It's not gingerly deceleration we're talking about. It's deceleration in excess of what's even possible on a regular length bike. Yes, it would be a good idea to have equipment that would withstand more forceful braking than what we normally consider the maximum, since it's possible on the long bike. But I think it's a leap to say that they did something wrong by furnishing equipment that probably withstands those typical-maximum braking forces.

Since this is a bike we're talking about, with customary dimensions and components, if you beef up the fork enough, you'll wreck the frame instead. Beef that up, and the headset gives out. Manufacture and install a special proprietary headset, and then the disc brake mounting tab bends. Fix that, and a normal rotor and hub become the weak link in the system. Etc., etc., etc. Next thing you know, you've added 20 pounds to the bike and a thousand dollars to the retail price. That starts to make a note of warning in the owner's manual look like a pretty reasonable alternative.

Chalo

Im not really sure what your talking about. In the rain I can skid an extracycle bike the entire block if locking the rear brake on a steep hill here in SF. Dont lock the wheel but thats not the point. I get it. It is all about weight transfer. Look at the telsa model s. one of the only cars I can think of that has larger rear rotors than front rotors but guess if the fronts or backs are going to be braking more on a downhill or in the rain. And a heavy long tail is never going to slow "harder" (faster) than a light short tail. In an emergency braking situstion the rear wheel will be useless in either case. Kinda like want to add fwd to a motorcycle to acceleate faster. Max accel is wheelie mode so there is no point. Max decel is A controlled stoppie (even though motor gp riders threshold brake because they are not computers) A lower cg will allow for more brake force before tipping but in the rain your generally limited by wheel lock. Conventional wisdom says you cant endo a cargo bike or tandem but ive done it on a tandem with only me and probably could do it with two people with slick front tires and massive brakes (conventional wisdom also assumes your not going downhill so the thinking is the front wheel will lock before the rear tire lifts)

I believe "harder" in this use means harder on the brakes and components. Not stop faster.

Short bike and long bike stopping in the same distances from the same speeds = more torque on the longtail bike. Especially since he was talking about the point of tip up. It would be easy to see that it takes much more force (actually torque) to endo a longtail bike
 
IMHO- A bicycle fork should be safe to brake into a stoppie at high speed AND hit a small curb or speed bump while in a stoppie, and not fail catastrophically.

It can bend or tweak or twist a bit, but not snap off or fold the wheel back into the frame.

That's just my personal benchmark that I expect from a fork that I'm willing to trust my life with, because I do a lot of high speed stoppies, and sometimes you unexpectedly hit bumps while you're doing it.
 
I can't agree with the apologists. The fork is under-engineered for the job, period. They rate the bike at 400lbs cargo + rider weight and put a fork on it that looks like standard duty. They sell kid hauling attachments, and that is most often one of the uses of the bike.

A mom and 2 kids going down a hill and hitting the brakes can replicate what happened to philistine. I wonder how long Yuba would be in business if that fork broke mid-ride, sending half of a family flying & cracking their skulls open / breaking their necks ?

A blurb in the manual about not braking too much is not an acceptable fix for this problem, in fact it is not a fix at all. People upgrade the brakes on their cars and motorcycles all the time and never expect their front suspension to break like this. Why's that? oh yeah - everyone but the bicycle industry adds a margin of safety so that they aren't sued.

Don't put up with mediocre disposable bikes, people. If you own one of these bikes, you need to make Yuba aware.
 
I had email with Ben, and he assures me they are now aware of what happened and are looking into it. cheers, Phil.
 
The problem was I became obsessed with the pending Euro crisis (this was a few weeks ago), and preparing for the collapse of the EU and the Euro, and what I was confident would ultimately become a coup in Greece and potentially military conflict with Turkey, that I put the forks down my priority list. I also became obsessed in a mania kind of way with the ideas of George Soros, the reflexive nature of markets, how that relates to Popper's fallibity, the Logico Tractatus, the uncertainty principle, how that might relate to Godel's Incompleteness Theorem, how that might relate to quantum entanglement, and the nature of consciousness. ES member Toolman2 can attest to the questionable mental state I had got myself into, he had to put up with 2 hours of me trying to explain it to him late one night, when I was a little tired and emotional.

:lol: :lol: :p

Anyway, none of it matters, as I am alive, and I will be selling the Yuba, so I can buy more physical gold, seeds, and shotgun shells.......

Dude, Mate, don't ever sell your Yuba for more gold & bullets??? How do you think you're going to get around when the gas runs out, & you have to trade some of that G & B for food, brewskies, & smoke seeds. :lol:

Just stay alive with a better fork, and don't ever stop posting on ES. You're home bro. :D
 
Don't sell it. That would be like guys shipping back known to be faulty RC Lipo packs.

Just get a proper fork for it. If you purchased it locally make sure the new fork is free even if it takes an hour in front of the shop with folded fork in hand greeting all prospective customers with "I'm just waiting for my replacement of this, which occurred while gently braking from 15mph on flat level ground." Nothing more, nothing less, and do it cheerfully because you know you'll get a fork....scene making would be counter productive. :mrgreen:

John
 
The word of the day is "Appocaloptimist"

Someone who knows the world is going to shit, but carries on cheerfully anyhow.
I sold my car and bought a yuba 5 years ago, bought gold, seeds, and land.
(since bought another cheap car which I wrote off yesterday)
We were set up, but now wife likes hanging at other guys place, so land will get sold, back to the burbs?

You can prep and stress all you like, you can try to save the world by building bikes, but you cant change whats tomorrow brings.
After a while you learn to go with it. You learn that allot of stuff, while you make the best decisions you can, you cant control, and it only brings a heavy life trying to. I had to let allot of stuff go, as have we all. I have a fair idea of whats around the corner, I prep for it, but there is no use spending your time in a dark place waiting for it. When it needs dealing with, deal with it. Until then, ride, have fun with the people you love.

Dont sell your bike. Riding a bike (fast helps) can save you from your self. The grin comes free.

Kiwi.
 
He is happy with is buy guys, maybe I'm the only one that gets his humor, but he was definitely just joking when he said he was selling it. No worries! :)
 
maybe I'm the only one that gets his humor,

I believe that this is listed prominently and repeatedly in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders.

I was just poking fun at my own rambling post, I was aware of what a crazy man I sounded like. I just think people should cool down a bit about Yuba. It isn't some evil organisation out to kill and rape your children like Shell, or Facebook or the Catholic Church. We need some perspective..... All I want is peace in the Middle East..... and a blow job.
 
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