waterproofing wires & controler , how do you do it ??

J

justlooking

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Dec 14, 2012
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Location
norfolk, uk , england
i am surprised that these kits are not made water proof since they are made to go onto bikes ,,

so was wondering the methods that you use to water proof them ?/

the controller -- wires coming out or the motor ,/ mid motor /,
etc ,,

the controller seems the be the funny one ,, the case is not water proof, and the place the wires come out of it are not water proof ,,
since it looks like the cases of the controllers are made to dissipate heat, then i assume that it can not be put into a plastic box as this would stop the are flow around it ..
..
 
Much like a watch Ebike controllers and wires can be made "Water Resistant" at best - not "water proof". My controller has silicon applied where the wires exit and all wires are covered with insulation that will protect if the bike gets caught in that occasional rain shower. My connections are protected either with tape or placiement in my battery bag. A dip in a lake or pool however will far exceed the water resistance of most any Ebike - that degree of water resistance is usually un-necessary...
 
search function is your friend. ;)

some existing info

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=waterproofing+controller&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search


http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?keywords=waterproofing&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=titleonly&sk=t&sd=d&sr=topics&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search
 
WATER-PROOFING
a lot of duct tape and silicon is the answer.
but seriously
controller should be already designed with enclosure as rain-proof.
wires should always enter from down up with drip loop, another word wires should be run lower before entering enclosure.
Also serious connectors not for toys
 
I'll admit it's a bitch with stock Chinese parts. Although with a little work and observing the good advice already offered about wire entry to the controller it's possible to achieve a working level of "moisture resistance".

Sometimes, it's just a good idea to throw a plastic bag over the handlebar controls during really heavy conditions.

I've had good luck keeping water in/out of controllers but you never know until you open one that's been in a few storms and look for signs of water entry.

Yes to the drip loop for the axle wiring and I do a complete wrap where the wires exit the axle using drumstick or similar bar "wrap" to just keep water at bay.

Plastic wrap (6"-8" stuff they sell for shipping) is another handy thing for weatherproofing battery packs. Not gonna help with long term submersion but for relatively heavy downpours and exposure, it can offer a good shed.

Anderson users might want to pack Dielectric grease inside connectors likely to get doused.

This is also another area where "more" is often more hassle than less? Try not to get too voltage crazy. Increments much above 50V introduces more potential for trouble in wet conditions.
 
On my bike where the electric joining plugs are and all of the cables I covered them with cable heatshrink and applied heat to tie it all together neat. I think too if you want put some silicone sealant in the ends before you heat it and it wil stay dry for years. It looks neater than cables everywhere.
 
On areas where there is an Anderson connector joining the battery pack to the controller, I put a short piece of chopped inner tube over the "upper" wire, extending past the connector, so that when the other wire is joined, the connection is inside the inner tube, preventing splashes to hit the connector. I just tape the inner tube firmly onto the upper wire so that water can't get inside the inner tube.
 
Silicon for waterproofing is a myth.
Silicon is great for automobile engines where conditions are hot and dry. However that is not the case for ebikes. Ever use clear silicon as a bathtub sealer and NOT notice mildew underneath? It's because silicon is hydroscopic: It wicks water to it and retains the moisture at the joining boundary. I learned the hard way through my AutoBody Shop which berated me for using it to sealing up the holes on my truck (mainly to reduce noise and patch trim), and said instead to use Urethane. You can purchase tubes from Home Depot and even some auto-parts stores will have it. Once opened the stuff will cure in the tube fairly quickly; best to use it up within a year.

I also agree with making items water-resistant and not water-proof: Adding a small vent hole will prevent pressure differential – and thus reason for moisture creep. My controllers suffer less from moisture damage than from other issues that are of greater concern, like vibration and rubbing. A good slather of Urethane around the bundle at the interface though is a good idea.

Moisture has had by far the greatest impact on my hub motors because they were not properly vented and varnished.

For wires, I use heat shrink like there’s no tomorrow. Heat shrink won’t necessarily stop moisture – but it sure does keep mud and debris out which can lead to shorting. With that, I dislike APP connectors because they can be affected by vibration. On my bike I use a combination of fairings and lizard-skin Velcro wraps to protect wires and connections from external factors.

Naturally, a mudpuppy will want to wash their ride frequently. :wink:
My ½ watt, KF
 
I am using a 6fet Lyen controller with the controller facing straight up/down on my bike frame. I went with a very simple and quick fix to the rain I get here in the North West USA and filled the controller with mineral oil. I have used it for a handful of months and just checking it last weekend had no problem with water getting in the controller. All I did was RTV the bottom brace on the controller so no oil leaked out and filled it from the top where the wires exit the controller. I just get oil creeping down my phase wires but it doesn't hurt anything or bother me personally. It's one option that works well for me and might for you.
 
For connectors, I use di-electric grease. Haven't had any water penetrate through that stuff. It also doubles as, well, grease to make connectors come on and off easier :wink:
 
Kingfish said:
Silicon for waterproofing is a myth.
Silicon is great for automobile engines where conditions are hot and dry. However that is not the case for ebikes. Ever use clear silicon as a bathtub sealer and NOT notice mildew underneath? It's because silicon is hydroscopic: It wicks water to it and retains the moisture at the joining boundary. I learned the hard way through my AutoBody Shop which berated me for using it to sealing up the holes on my truck (mainly to reduce noise and patch trim), and said instead to use Urethane. You can purchase tubes from Home Depot and even some auto-parts stores will have it. Once opened the stuff will cure in the tube fairly quickly; best to use it up within a year.

I also agree with making items water-resistant and not water-proof: Adding a small vent hole will prevent pressure differential – and thus reason for moisture creep. My controllers suffer less from moisture damage than from other issues that are of greater concern, like vibration and rubbing. A good slather of Urethane around the bundle at the interface though is a good idea.

Moisture has had by far the greatest impact on my hub motors because they were not properly vented and varnished.

For wires, I use heat shrink like there’s no tomorrow. Heat shrink won’t necessarily stop moisture – but it sure does keep mud and debris out which can lead to shorting. With that, I dislike APP connectors because they can be affected by vibration. On my bike I use a combination of fairings and lizard-skin Velcro wraps to protect wires and connections from external factors.

Naturally, a mudpuppy will want to wash their ride frequently. :wink:
My ½ watt, KF
Click to expand...
silicone is ok if you know how to use it. what you do is make sure you bend your heatshrinked wires so the botttom of the open end faces downwards so rain cant enter easily. The silicone then does not have to try hard to keep moisture out. Not all downward facing heatshring would require a moisture barrier and its better left opened for ventilation.
 
Silicone sealant blows chunks. KF is correct.

My personal favorite is caulking designed specifically for raingutters. Crazy sticky compared to silicone, and won't drink water. The only product I ever found capable of fixing holes in polyethylyene surfboards.

Butylene is also good stuff, but remains kinda sticky and gooey forever. It comes in tubes or strips like tape.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_399528-1278-HA509GRY_0__?productId=3729237&Ntt=caulking

Another very good one is called OSI. I use it to seal holes in foam roofs. Link above.
 
Quality connector does not need any dielectric grease ,silicone, tape or whatever to keep water away
It is designed to be water tight with several gaskets
separate gaskets on wires
separate gasket onside body of connector
But this connector cost $$$
Example weatherpack by DELPHI
 
True, but the typical kit comes with a really good example of not quality.

You might want to beef up sealant at the controller itself too, if you ride in real wet. The gutter caulk at the seams, screw holes, and wire grommets etc. Mount in as dry a place as possible of course, without completely blocking air flow for cooling though.

In a perfect world, youd have a dry but ventialted place on the bike, where all plugs and connections would be located. For many, the most vulerable thing on the bike is the throttle.
 
A Word on Fairings

Placing a fairing on the front greatly reduced (or eliminated) a shedload of pesky problems. Think of it this way: With armies, there’s always the battle of sword verses shield. Well, if weather and debris are swords, then we want good shields – and that’s what a fairing provides.

Both of my controllers are mounted on either side of the upper rear suspension and were getting pelted by debris; it’s been a long road but this last summer I worked out how to deflect most of that business, along with moving some crucial connections out of harms’ way.

P1-201101206-DIY-fender&rack6.jpg

Before modification: Bare frame with rear rack modified for the suspension.

P1-Fall2012.Rebuild.0.jpg

Summer 2012 Rebuild: Went through everything to fix the pesky issues. Notice the bundle of wiring in the front.

The fairing material I use is HDPE that’s about $7 or $8 for a 2x4 sheet. It can be folded, cut with shears, slightly deformed by a heat gun, hole-punched for zip-ties, stitched for Velcro, and I think I found a source for bonding as well.

I have fairing pieces placed in-between the controllers and wheel for deflection, they are mounted over to armor my wiring for protection against elements and malice, and for the aesthetic appearance. On the inside, I have panels that run against the suspension linkage to prevent them from rubbing damage. In addition the wires and cabling are mounted to that so they do not wander, they stay tight against the frame, and remain secured. Lastly the outer layer serves three functions as weather shield with a bit of aero, as a slippery covering for my fast-moving legs during pedal, and for aesthetic value by covering up the clutter.

P1-Fall2012.Rebuild.0-Detail.jpg

Detail from above: This was the 1st pass at reorganization.

The detail doesn't show the final result; it was an evolutionary process of trial and error. However - more shielding was placed between the wheel and wiring so that they were much better protected.

P1-121020-0.jpg

Final assembly has nice clean lines with wiring well-protected.

The bike goes faster with less exposed: Wind and water move around instead of "through" the framework. One small artifact of having a front fairing deflecting rain is that more hits me in the upper chest. I have considered a small translucent windshield; the operative word is "small" otherwise it becomes a billboard that creates drag.

Custom-built for Seattle-rain, KF
 
Can I protect the controller with polyester (fiberglass resin)? I'm thinking a thick layer of this stuff covering the whole circuit board would be very efficient water repellent. I know this is normally done with epoxy, but polyester is easier to get in big quantities and cheaper. I don't really know much about polyester or controllers so do mind my ignorance.
 
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