Weird Power Button Issues

[mfkubak]

Hello, everyone! My name is Matt, I've been perusing this forum for quite some time as a source for building my electric longboard. May I say, this is like, the Holy grail of forums when it comes to anything electric

Anyway, I've been having strange issues with the power switch I've been using to power on my longerboard. I've searched through the forum and I think it either has something to do with the spark that occurs when I plug in the dean's plug, or the high voltage has been doing something to the guts of the switch overtime, now causing it to misbehave.

I have posted 2 links to the videos. The first one is of everything working beautifully with no problems, and the second is of the current problem.

In the second video, you will notice that I have added a volt meter to the outside of the box. This volt meter doesn't not rely on the switch as it is separately wired.

It is also important that I say that the volt meter is not the cause of the problem (at least I don't think it is), because the board was fully functional even after it was added. It wasn't until yesterday that it started doing funky things.

As far as specs go...

Batteries - (2) 3s 5000 mah lipos connected in series.

Motor - turnigy aerodrive 6354 - 260kv

ESC - 120A FVT (I took off the fan as it was being sufficiently cooled through the holes of the enclosure. And it wouldn't fit....).

Receiver/Controller - wiiceiver and nunchuck.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=op-CRFG_U1E


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IM2K6gn_mkw

There you have it. I am at a loss here...everything was working great with my updates, with the switch, everything was smooth as butter, and then this happens. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks
Matt

 

[torqueboards]

What on/off switch are you using?

Great setup btw.

 

[mfkubak]

The same one as this.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11972

I have my battery + connected to the common pin
LED + AND ESC + connected to the normally open pin
And all the negatives together.

Thank you! It still needs a tiny bit of reinforcing, but it's almost there

 

[torqueboards]

The same one as this.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11972

I have my battery + connected to the common pin
LED + AND ESC + connected to the normally open pin
And all the negatives together.

Thank you! It still needs a tiny bit of reinforcing, but it's almost there

I doubt you can connect just the switch directly. The switch itself doesn't support the voltage. You need mosfets in between something similar to this which I sell http://diyelectricskateboard.com/product/on-off-high-voltage-anti-spark-power-switch-2-14s/

 

[mfkubak]

Really?? How come it worked previously?
And is there a schematic on wiring the mosfets and what kind are used? Unfortunately, I cannot afford your product, especially since I already have the switch.

 

[torqueboards]

Really?? How come it worked previously?
And is there a schematic on wiring the mosfets and what kind are used? Unfortunately, I cannot afford your product, especially since I already have the switch.

To be honest, I'm not too sure. Would be nice if someone could break it down. I would imagine it would work for a while until the current would mess it up. Although, I'm not too sure. I'm not an EE :/

 

[sl33py]

wow - nice setup!

Agree that the switch is likely the culprit. Looking at the specs it says 3A 250v. Obviously 25v < 250v, but the Amps are likely way more than it can handle. Have you pulled it to see if it's damaged from the high amps? You have it inline w/ your power to ESC? I'd guess it's pretty beat up from high amps and am really surprised it didn't "poof" the first time you powered it on and let the magic smoke out!

Would also be great to see your momentary switch for the voltage display on your battery - nice!

I'm not sure how you can build what Torque sells... And if you want to save $ on a power switch i'd go with a simple inline XT-90. I bought some of the new anti-spark XT-90's and they work great on 6/8s that i've tested. no zap/spark at all! That's my plan for my eventual build and it's working well on a test board. I use it as the power switch since my VESC doesn't have one.

Clean board and nicely done - hope there is an easy fix for you!

 

[CSN]

I'm using TB's anti spark switch. So far so good.

One question. Can the on/off 16mm button be replaced with one of shorter height?

I want to mount the button flush with top of deck and not have the wires and back of switch extend down so far.

TIA

 

[torqueboards]

I'm using TB's anti spark switch. So far so good.

One question. Can the on/off 16mm button be replaced with one of shorter height?

I want to mount the button flush with top of deck and not have the wires and back of switch extend down so far.

TIA

You could yes.. If you can find one..

 

[BadWolf]

The same one as this.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11972

I have my battery + connected to the common pin
LED + AND ESC + connected to the normally open pin
And all the negatives together.

Thank you! It still needs a tiny bit of reinforcing, but it's almost there

The FVT esc already has a built in on/off switch, if you short the thin red and white wire the esc will start up.

 

[mfkubak]

Really?? How come it worked previously?
And is there a schematic on wiring the mosfets and what kind are used? Unfortunately, I cannot afford your product, especially since I already have the switch.

To be honest, I'm not too sure. Would be nice if someone could break it down. I would imagine it would work for a while until the current would mess it up. Although, I'm not too sure. I'm not an EE :/

That would be lovely. I'll do a bit of research and post in update with anything I find. Haha, neither am I :/, but I am majoring in Mechanical, and from what I'm told, we dip our toes into a bit of Electrical.

Thanks for your help!

wow - nice setup!

Agree that the switch is likely the culprit. Looking at the specs it says 3A 250v. Obviously 25v < 250v, but the Amps are likely way more than it can handle. Have you pulled it to see if it's damaged from the high amps? You have it inline w/ your power to ESC? I'd guess it's pretty beat up from high amps and am really surprised it didn't "poof" the first time you powered it on and let the magic smoke out!

Would also be great to see your momentary switch for the voltage display on your battery - nice!

I'm not sure how you can build what Torque sells... And if you want to save $ on a power switch i'd go with a simple inline XT-90. I bought some of the new anti-spark XT-90's and they work great on 6/8s that i've tested. no zap/spark at all! That's my plan for my eventual build and it's working well on a test board. I use it as the power switch since my VESC doesn't have one.

Clean board and nicely done - hope there is an easy fix for you!

I'm honestly not sure either. I played a hunch, hoping it would work
I haven't pulled it out yet. I plan to when I actually start fixing it up once I know what I'm doing.
The power switch you are talking about...is it not just a plug? If so, I prefer to use a plug as an emergency reset type of tool. Along with that, a power button to bring it all together and make it look nice But I do plan on switching out my deans plugs with the anti-spark XT-90!

I'll post up pictures of my build in a bit!

I'm using TB's anti spark switch. So far so good.

One question. Can the on/off 16mm button be replaced with one of shorter height?

I want to mount the button flush with top of deck and not have the wires and back of switch extend down so far.

TIA

I literally spent 2 days looking for a shorter switch....don't waste your time....it doesn't exist.

The same one as this.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11972

I have my battery + connected to the common pin
LED + AND ESC + connected to the normally open pin
And all the negatives together.

Thank you! It still needs a tiny bit of reinforcing, but it's almost there

The FVT esc already has a built in on/off switch, if you short the thin red and white wire the esc will start up.

I'm sorry, I'm a little confused with what you are trying to say? My ESC starts up even with my power button issue. I keep the FVT on/off switch on all the time because the main power button turns it off whenever it to is turned off. Its just become faulty through what I understand to be too much current.

Again, I may be misunderstanding you, so if I am, please feel free to correct me!

Thank you!