Whats the best battery for an EBike?

reklm

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Sep 4, 2023
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im planning to build an EBike , but wonder what batteries are going to be the best . Li-ion 's are cheaper but have a higher chance to burning ore rather LiFePo4's which are higher priced and have a smaller density of Energy per weight .
 
A123 26650s are super powerful, long lasting, and cheap. You won’t have the range but with the cells’ ability to fast charge u can spend ur saved bucks on a high current power supply and recharge in nanoseconds

With lifepo4 being safer i think external balancing without a bms is safe enough.
 

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...wonder what batteries are going to be the best .
It's gotta be (ES Forum member) DogDipstick's Chevy batteries. The way he abuses them daily and they keep on ticking...


 
It's gotta be (ES Forum member) DogDipstick's Chevy batteries. The way he abuses them daily and they keep on ticking...


It seams easy enough to buy whole chevy volt battery, but finding a couple of Gen2 modules not so easy,
 
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How many cells are u looking for?
I just got this. New A123 26650 LFP 40V 96 cell Rack LiFePo4 Pack ANR26650M1B 20AH 892WH max 36V | eBay
They’re not the most energy dense of the lifepo4 but they pack a real wallop and don’t sag. I just sold my k2 26650 lifepo4 that have a high 3800mah as they sagged too much and are degrading from pushing them hard. I see ur in eu. Maybe harder to get a good deal on these
I bought one of these before he put up the listing for the NEW packs and just had the lightly used packs available. With a light load (8A?) I got 99% Ah and Wh....when I got a larger load to test with I think I did 15A and the numbers were nearly the same. The Wh was 97.5% but the Ah number was just about the same.

So expect maybe some slight degradation from age but overall these are a STUPID good deal for 96 cells. I was dumb enough to remove the nickel from one of my 12V chunks (I split the pack into thirds) and all the cells are 5.9mΩ give or take a tiny bit. So all right in spec. Now I wouldn't recommend removing them from the nickel. Its time consuming to do it without creating holes in the cells and GOOD LUCK trying to spot weld them yourself unless you have a kWeld. Aluminum can (although there's a nickel disc underneath one of the sides?) so this shit is impossible to spot weld and is hard to solder even with a 200W soldering iron. Just leave them attached the way they are. If you need to adjust the voltage then remove cell holders, cut those first and then sharpie your lines on the nickel, triple check and VERY carefully cut with a dremel.

I'm draining one of the 2 12V 20Ah chunks I have right now and applying a 40A load doesn't even get this thing hot and they drop from 3.30v to 3.25v. Not bad for a 2C discharge. When I tested the individual cells with my EBC A20 they came out at 2.5Ah exactly.
 
I believe most builders use Li-on because they pack the most energy in the lightest package.
 
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