Where to Buy a 36-72 Volt, Low Amp Controller ?

[ScooterMan101]

I have been searching the usual Vendors for a small and modern controller that is made for higher Voltages ... But, Low Amp . I am only finding larger controllers with 20/25/35 and up Amp, on their websites.

Looking for a newer ( affordable ) , Sine Wave / Small / up to 16s and 18s batteries that will only allow up to about 15 amps Max to be drawn from battery .

12-14 amp draw would be even better.

Higo Plugs would be a good improvement as well.

Know of a source ?

 

[wesnewell]

Just buy the one you want and cut one or more shunts to lower max amp draw. Divide the number of shunt wires by the max amp to determine how many to leave connected.

 

[ScooterMan101]

You just answered my next question on how to make due with any controller within the desired operating voltage.

Thanks

Does anyone have pictures of what the shunt wires are in a controller ?

Is the shunt sometimes just a thick bar that is in a [ shape ?

 

[ScooterMan101]

I should also ask, what is the smallest 48-72 volt controller you have found ? Link.
( the ones from the big/popular vendors have large controllers once want one that goes up to 72 volts).

 

[wesnewell]

Plenty of pictures of shunts here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643
If you're going to be running 15A continuous at 72V, you'll want a 1000W controller minimum imo. Something like this minimum.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Universal-Sensor-Sensorless-72V-800-1000W-35Amax-E-bike-Scooter-Motorcycle-Brushless-Speed-Controller/313864_528761070.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2T8swE

 

[dogman dan]

The other approach that will work is to buy a controller that can be wired, or is wired, for a Cycleanalyst.

Then you can set amps to any level you like using the CA functions.

Nothing wrong with clip some shunts though. Just not adjustable during a ride is all.

I'm not really sure why you would want 72v, and less than 20 amps. One of my all time favorite controllers was my little lyens 9 fet. It was 36-72v, and 20 amps. I found the extra speed of 72v fun, but with 1500w max amps, I never fried my motor on the hot summer days.

With typical DD motors, I got 35 mph, rather than the 40 mph I'd get with 40 amps. 35 plenty fast for street use, and faster than I want to crash in dirt.

 

[ScooterMan101]

Thanks,
That link is same price as BMS B. but includes shipping, albit longer.

Plenty of pictures of shunts here.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31643
If you're going to be running 15A continuous at 72V, you'll want a 1000W controller minimum imo. Something like this minimum.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Universal-Sensor-Sensorless-72V-800-1000W-35Amax-E-bike-Scooter-Motorcycle-Brushless-Speed-Controller/313864_528761070.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.2T8swE

Dogman Dan,

I have a 201 rpm Q100c CST rear motor,
instead of/or before ordering a 328 rpm version of the Q100c CST I want to try it with a 14s pack, and a 16s pack.
From what I have read the little Q100c CST does not like to have over about 17 amps pumped through it.
So since I am going to be, over the next couple of months ( once I get a 72volt controller ) experimenting with 14s and 16 s voltages
I want to limit the amps as much as possible to keep the motor at , preferably under 600 watts.

I would love to get another C.A. the C.A. V 3 this time, and a controller that plugs right into it , $ 130 C.A. V3 and / $ 185 for Grin C7240-GR
But
The cost would be with about $ 12 shipping costs, over $ 328 ... for just those two items.

I am sure looking forward to the time that Grin, sells more products, at a considerable lower price, to make the same profit/return.

The other approach that will work is to buy a controller that can be wired, or is wired, for a Cycleanalyst.

Then you can set amps to any level you like using the CA functions.

Nothing wrong with clip some shunts though. Just not adjustable during a ride is all.

I'm not really sure why you would want 72v, and less than 20 amps. One of my all time favorite controllers was my little lyens 9 fet. It was 36-72v, and 20 amps. I found the extra speed of 72v fun, but with 1500w max amps, I never fried my motor on the hot summer days.

With typical DD motors, I got 35 mph, rather than the 40 mph I'd get with 40 amps. 35 plenty fast for street use, and faster than I want to crash in dirt.

 

[dogman dan]

If you have a CA, like the stand alone, its not hard to convert it to a DP. The info is on the grin website.

I just made the suggestion because once you make that investment, you have the ability to run any motor you ever have in the future, at any amps, and a wide voltage range. What's really cool is being able to make adjustments while out on the road. Run battery A, the weak one on 20 amps,, then when you get to a hill, put battery b on,, more volts, more amps,, then run up that mountain.

There are guys here that might be able to make other suggestions,, cheaper controllers that can be re programmed, or have the CA plug added.

Right now though,, two cheap ass controllers, and clip shunts will also work, The 36-48v one will only cost about 20 bucks. 72v a bit more, but not much if you haunt e bay for a good price. Both well under a hundred bucks.

Your motor,, I would not run it over 48v,, or rather, 15s. Not at my weight anyway,, 190 pounds.

 

[ScooterMan101]

I do have a Cycle Analyst 2.3 now on my Mac Motor/MTB and I do change the amp draw from one ride to another. I love that feature . But I am not going to take off the 2.3 and the big 12 fet infinion controller off the MTB to put onto the other bike with the little Q100 motor.

In the Future when the Cycle Analyst V3 new comes down to under $ 100 U.S. I will be buying one.
And that 72 volt Sine Wave Controller that Grin Sells for $ 185 , as soon as Grin can start selling a smaller version 48-72 volts, for smaller motors that do need/would take over 20 amps, ..at around the $ 80 mark,

I will buy one of those too.

If you have a CA, like the stand alone, its not hard to convert it to a DP. The info is on the grin website.

I just made the suggestion because once you make that investment, you have the ability to run any motor you ever have in the future, at any amps, and a wide voltage range. What's really cool is being able to make adjustments while out on the road. Run battery A, the weak one on 20 amps,, then when you get to a hill, put battery b on,, more volts, more amps,, then run up that mountain.

There are guys here that might be able to make other suggestions,, cheaper controllers that can be re programmed, or have the CA plug added.

Right now though,, two cheap ass controllers, and clip shunts will also work, The 36-48v one will only cost about 20 bucks. 72v a bit more, but not much if you haunt e bay for a good price. Both well under a hundred bucks.

Your motor,, I would not run it over 48v,, or rather, 15s. Not at my weight anyway,, 190 pounds.

 

[Recumbent Bicycle Source]

Maybe I'm wrong... but couldn't you limit the amp draw with a simple 3 speed throttle switch set to it's lowest setting?