Which Battery from BMSBattery for Q100H?? (Project Complete)

[athflying]

I have been reading a lot and narrowed my first build down to a 36V Q100H front hub motor. I ride a Trek 7300 FX with disk brakes and rigid frame. I commute just short of 9 miles in South Florida with NO hills. I like riding and enjoy the excersize, so I am not looking for huge torque, more than anything I just want to shave some time off my commute.

I really like the BS01/02 setup, but with a 73 mm BB I don't want to chance a bad fit for that much money. I am also trying to keep my budget below $500 shipped. So with all that in mind, I am trying to narrow down the best battery/controller combo.
I will most likely order from BMSbattery.com.

I like this as my first choice as it includes a controller and would simplify install but I don't know if it's compatible with the Q100H
http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/679-bottle-ebike-battery.html

Very similar battery but name brand cells and $100 more
http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/678-bottle-ebike-battery.html

2nd option is getting stand alone controller but then still not sure best battery choice.

Cheapest - http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/683-bottle-ebike-battery.html
Most Expensive - http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/682-bottle-ebike-battery.html
Mid-Range - http://www.bmsbattery.com/battery-pack/672-high-c-rate-36v-20ah-li-ion-battery-heat-shrink-battery-pack.html
Mid-Range - http://www.bmsbattery.com/packs/657-36v-10ah-lithium-ion-alloy-shell-ebike-battery-pack.html
Mid-Range - http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/475-36v-15ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html

with the sine wave controller S06S and http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/670-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html LCD
or this guy http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/543-250watts-sine-wave-controller-with-lcd-meter.html

Ultimate goal is top speed of 20-25 mph sustainable (with me pedaling the whole time), able to make 20 miles on one charge, budget friendly.

 

[eMax]

I have paired the first battery you linked to with a Q100H rear motor on my girlfriends bike. Its a great combo! Having the controller in the cast is a good combo if you want a clean install.

 

[Eujangles]

I don't think you'll get up to 25 mp/h on 36v. I run a Q100 (the original, not the 100H) at 48v, and it's pretty awesome. I recently got this battery/controller for it:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/battery-pack/681-bottle-ebike-battery.html

That being said, any old battery will do so long as it can handle whatever amperage your controller runs at.

 

[mlt34]

your motor won't make 25 mph by itself, but if you don't mind some decent pedaling force then you can get there and maintain 25 mph. No pedaling will mean struggling to about 18 mph, depending on rider weight and your local terrain.

I like those downtube batteries with the enclosed controller because of how nice they make the bike look, as compared to a bulk rack battery. They are also really easy to install.

You can also get the silver bottle style battery, which are a similar size and also have an enclosed controller.

 

[athflying]

I don't think you'll get up to 25 mp/h on 36v. I run a Q100 (the original, not the 100H) at 48v, and it's pretty awesome. I recently got this battery/controller for it:

http://www.bmsbattery.com/battery-pack/681-bottle-ebike-battery.html

That being said, any old battery will do so long as it can handle whatever amperage your controller runs at.

You've been running 48V at 20 amps with no problems?? If so for how long??

 

[motomech]

Make sure you get the 260 wind for the 100H.
You will only 19 mph on 36V, too slow for the flat lands.
Run either the 48V\20A battery that Eujangle linked, or up-grade to the same battery that usws the Panasonic cells, it's worth it.
Without any hills to speak of, the H will be fine at this power level and you will see about 24 mph, faster than you will be able to pedal.
Speaking of pedaling, you will need a DNP free wheel. Get the 8-speed, same as your cassette, to ensure smooth shifting.

 

[athflying]

Thank you everyone for the responses. I couldn't find any confirmation that the integrated battery and controller would work but seems it will. If I go with a 48V would I be OK with the cheaper battery or stick with the Panasonic cells.

Motomech I am planning on a front hub build so unless I am missing something I don't think I need the freewheel. I also plan on the 260 wind motor.

Thanks again!!!!

P.S....I checked my average speed on my last ride of 8 miles.. It was about 11.5 mph so even 20 mph would be a huge improvement.

 

[mlt34]

If you're used to pedaling then yes, 19 mph will be great. Many of us are used to really powerful ebikes that get 30 mph, so 19 mph is relatively weak for us.

The cheaper 48V battery will also work for you, it's just lesser quality in terms of the cells. It will work, but if you can spring for the slightly more expensive battery, it will likely last longer and just work harder for you over the long run. Both of those will definitely be compatible with your motor.

And yes, a front motor doesn't need a freewheel. Are you familiar with what torque arms are though? You will likely want to pick up a set if you are running at 48V in a front fork. Is it steel or aluminum, your fork? Aluminum you'll definitely want a torque arm. Steel you'll still probably want one.

 

[athflying]

Steel but still going with torque arms... Figure for the minimal cost well worth it.

 

[Eujangles]

You've been running 48V at 20 amps with no problems?? If so for how long??

It's been about a month, but for 2 years before that, I was running it at 22 amps on the KU93 controller. At the time, I was using Lipos and had it at 14s, so somewhere around 58 volts hot off the charger, with no issues. Bear in mind I have the 201 RPM version, not the crazy 328 rpm or whatever the other one is.

I switched from the lipos because I was sick of dealing with them and wanted a nice looking turn-key solution. Strangely, there hasn't been much of a drop in top speed (probably an efficiency thing), but it feels like it's lost a half-step in torque. Still pretty zippy though.

Yeah a few people told me I'd burn out the little motor, but it hasn't happened yet, and I ride the thing all the time (yup, hills too). I'm only about 150lbs though, so maybe that's how I've been getting away with it.

PS
If you're wondering why it only says 12s in my sig, I ran that for about a month before I added a booster pack, just never updated the sig

 

[Eujangles]

Oh also, the reason I say you won't get up to 25mph at 36v is from personal experience: my original setup was 10s (around 40v) @ 22A and I was really underwhelmed by it. Waited about 3 months before I upped the ante to 12s then eventually to 14s.

 

[athflying]

That's good to know. I am about 170 and no hills. I am also looking to actually pedal quite a bit so should be less strain on the motor.

One last thing..... Wheel. I stopped by my lbs today and asked if they would lace a wheel with a hub motor. They said they would have to see the motor first before saying yes or giving me an estimate on cost. Is about $100 more (with shipping)to get the motor from bmsbattery laced in a wheel. I mostly heard what they send is junk but then seen many posts they have significantly improved recently. Is it worth the $$ to have them send it mounted? I rather not do myself and don't want to get turned away from the bike shop. I also don't want to have to worry about spoke spontaneously blowing out either... So not sure best route to take.

 

[mlt34]

It really depends how comfortable you feel playing with your spokes. Even though I can cut my own spokes and lace a wheel from scratch, I usually have them build the wheel then I just "tune" it once I get it. That way they do the annoying time consuming part and I just have to do the final trueing. Have you ever trued a wheel before?

 

[Eujangles]

+1 on what mlt34 said.

I got mine as the bare motor and had it laced by a bike shop. What I saved on shipping wound up being almost exactly the same cost as having it built. It also took the bike shop FOREVER to build it.

At the end of the day, I wound up wishing I had just ordered the motor mounted already and brought it in somewhere to get trued.

Your call though...the shop did a great job (albeit a slow job) of building it, and the end result is probably much better than what I would have gotten from BMSbattery.

 

[mlt34]

one thing to be aware of, ES is full of horror stories of bike shops butchering the motor wires that exit the axle. They usually aren't familiar with hubmotors and don't realize that those wires need to be protected. If you do end up going to a bike shop, I'd recommend going around the wires with duct tape a few times where they exit the axle, and also warning the guy to specifically be carefully because the small wires are very fragile.

If you are comfortable truing a wheel by yourself, especially if its already laced for you, then I'd recommend going the prebuilt wheel option. It's really not that hard, you can watch a bunch of great youtube videos about it, and it's a good skill to have because you should really true your wheel every few hundred miles in the first year or so of owning it to keep it in tip top shape.

 

[athflying]

Sounds like a good idea... Let them build it... Will touch it up when it shows up.

Never trued a wheel but after spending $40 to have it done certainly willing to learn.

 

[motomech]

It's been a couple of years since I received my Q100 frt., but I don't think you will have to true the wheel, just tighten the spokes. With the rear wheel builds, one needs to "center" the rim, which can get involved. The frt. comes more or less centered between the forks. As a final ck. on the rim, tape or hold a Magic Marker on a fork leg, then spin the wheel and move the marker closer til it just touches. It will mark the spots where it wobbles. Remember, when the spokes are tight(not squeaky tight, but firm), you will need to loosen the opposite side to pull the rim the direction you want. Don't worry, it's more complicated to explain than to do.

Make sure you order a battery with the SLCD-3 display, it's a little quirky to program, but works well. Especially to 5 level assist. There is a thread I started in the Tech. section that you can start reading.
There are some extras you should order, they are;
Spoke wrench
One pair torque arms
Hidden ebrake sensor
Left hand half-twist throttle

The Kit supplied Ebrake handles are clunky, the external sensor will allow you to keep yours.

Some prefer the thumb throttle and others, the twist. Buy the extra twist so you have the option. You will no longer need to shift the frt derailuer and many put the throttle on the left. On one of my bikes, I was able to remove the frt. shifter without the chain coming off the sprocket and on the other, I had to leave it to retain the chain guide. So that one, I just moved the shifter inboard to make room for the throttle.

Speaking of the frt. sprocket, your 48T(with 11T rear) is pretty good. You will be able to pedal along into the low 20's mph. I was able to fit a 50T before chainstay cleaance became a prob.

One of the nice things about ordering from BMS Battery, is how fast they get the order to you. The last couple of orders I have made arrived in 7 to 10 days. I believe with a battery and wheel ASM, it takes longer.
Should be a very cool build.

 

[mlt34]

As a final ck. on the rim, tape or hold a Magic Marker on a fork leg, then spin the wheel and move the marker closer til it just touches. It will mark the spots where it wobbles. Remember, when the spokes are tight(not squeaky tight, but firm), you will need to loosen the opposite side to pull the rim the direction you want. Don't worry, it's more complicated to explain than to do.

This is a good method. A method I actually prefer a little better is to take a zip tie and put it on the fork or chainstay next to the rim, then cut it so it just barely reaches the rim. You'll see/hear it touch the rim in the high spots, and you'll see the gap/shadow grow in the low spots. You can fine-tune adjust it by spinning the zip tie on the frame so it gets closer and further away from the rim. It also leaves you two hands for manipulating the wheel are spoke wrench, and it's 'semi-permament' in the sense that you don't have to worry about slightly moving while holding a marker, or having the tape give way when the rim hits it. Sometimes I've forgotten to remove the cable tie and then months later I go to do a checkup on the rim and it's already there waiting for me

 

[athflying]

Q100H 36V350W Front E-Bike Motor Wheel - RPM : 260 1
$100.18 $100.18
Wheel(rim) size: 700c

-- A Pair of EBike Torque Arm - Size : M12 1
$15.00 $15.00

-- Spoke Wrench
$1.00 $1.00

-- HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs
$5.90 $5.90

-- 48V10Ah Bottle-09 E-Bike Battery Pack - Color : Black
$281.00 $281.00

-- Left Handed Half Twist Throttle
$4.00 $4.00


Ordered. I went with the cheaper battery to keep costs down....will update when I get everything installed and running.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[mlt34]

That's going to be a fun ebike, enjoy!

 

[athflying]

Now that I am just waiting for parts to arrive, started thinking about that front chainring. Seems I can probably ditch the lower 2 and go to a single large chain ring.

I tried some regular biking forums to see if I could find some good info on the largest chainring that would fit. When you guys convert, do you ditch the derailer and shifter??? Any good sources for decent chainrings??

 

[friendly1uk]

Q100H 36V350W Front E-Bike Motor Wheel - RPM : 260 1
$100.18 $100.18
Wheel(rim) size: 700c

-- A Pair of EBike Torque Arm - Size : M12 1
$15.00 $15.00

-- Spoke Wrench
$1.00 $1.00

-- HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs
$5.90 $5.90

-- 48V10Ah Bottle-09 E-Bike Battery Pack - Color : Black
$281.00 $281.00

-- Left Handed Half Twist Throttle
$4.00 $4.00


Ordered. I went with the cheaper battery to keep costs down....will update when I get everything installed and running.

Thanks for all the help.

I nearly made the same order today, but have some concerns that a few days searching has not answered.
The controller needs a motor with speed sensor. The q100h doesn't seem to have one. The other sine controllers cycle the power off without it. I want the lcd to work properly, with speed readout. I'm also concerned that the model 3 can't do some things, so I need to tell them what I need. This leaves me clueless as what doesn't it do that the model 1 does. I don't seem to get my answers from bmsb. Even a simple 'what does it weigh' is met with 'about same as the others' which tells me nothing as I don't see any of their weights.

I do hope this combination is tried and tested and someone can tell me what will happen without the speed sensor it says it needs. Plus what settings are missing and I need to tell them about.

 

[hipergp]

Any updates on this project? I'm debating the same build on my raleigh misceo hybrid with a cromoly frt fork. I'm not sure of the benefits of 36v and 260 rpm, or 48v and 201. I weigh 165 or so and am young enough that I don't mind pedalling... would 48v and the 260 work, or would it just overheat? I'm in the SF bay area so I DO have hills to contend with.

 

[mlt34]

If anything, the 48V would probably have less heat, because it would have less current. More voltage = less current at the same power level.

The only issue is over time the gears can wear out a bit faster from higher power levels. But at 48V that 201 motor would be a lot of fun. Also, not that it's 201@ 36V, so it'd be proportionally faster at 48V.

 

[athflying]

Sorry it's been awhile, but just got the parts yesterday. I unpacked everything today mounted the battery and the motor.

The tire is about 1" off center, so going to have to read up on how to adjust it. I had to take some material off the supplied washers to get them to fit....I guess most do the same or buy some C washers.

I may not get to finish until this weekend. I am taking my time and trying to plan it out so that I can lay out the wiring as nice as possible. Also ZERO instructions in the kit, so having to Google here and there when I am not sure how something fits. Will posts some pics once I make a little more progress.