Which Hub motor and controller for a 96v build?

Steven Sheng said:
I find one on Aliexpress but I haven't bought it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970325954.html

no throttle control or other wires? I see only phase and batt wires,
 
DogDipstick said:
gobi said:


Connecting tabs -

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/329860

Steps:

Your link is broken. Here is a link to the Termi-Foil from TE.

I remember the thread, I think it might have been DoctorBass? Or Methods? ? IDK. Anyway, here is another link for anyone wondering.

https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/brands/termi-foil.html?tab=pgp-story

Danke!
I need to find that thread, can't remember if I can

Fold tabs over each other and crimp Termi Foil over bare tabs ?
or should I add some copper strips over the pouch cell tabs and then crimp Termi Foils over them?
 
This thread it shows two different ways of putting batteries together one with a clip and one with aluminum alternating plastic plates with a through with a threaded rod that has a ice cube maker tube surrounding it as it's not too short
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=106666#p1562110
I made some copper clips and going to drill two holes 4 copper rivets that I may have to shorten for spaim08 cells as 14s1p. I will put the build in that last thread but it'll take about a month before I get to it.
 
I do this. Nickel plated copper, and pure copper rivets. I made a little 'vampire punch " with two fangs that place the holes on the tab.

And some 600v rated insulation, 1" sheathing. I also use Burndy Pentrox on all connections, and an 1 ton Arbor press to crimp it all together strongly once riveted.

Pics I made. I'll upload more here. I sell this copper for 10$ a strip. Then I wrap the whole thing with heatshrink, a layer of pouron rubber foam, and then use shipping bands to keep it all in place. Here is a pic of the bands too and the heatshrink. I included aluminum angle on the corners on this one.
 

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999zip999, Dogdipstick,

That helps a bunch,

Pouch Cells:
A. In my stash I have A123 midget 20ah cells,

Specs:
20Ah UltraPhosphate
A cell optimized to balance the power and energy requirements of 12V starter batteries
Compact | 150 x 144
http://www.a123systems.com/automotive/products/cells/

Tabs: These have what looks to be large tabs.

1. Can I fold the tabs half way over each other and use one of TE crimp things?

2. Or Keep them flat and use the DogDip proven method to rivet?

3. Ends - do I solder to the nickel strip 2x10awg wire?

B. SPIM08HP from BH
The pouch cells they have come in a nice enclosure and bolts already on the tabs.

Check out this video, they guys uses super cool busbars to form the series connection,
Any clue where I can get these?
Pic below from video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z86Mt6t6Cn8


More build material questions:
1. DogDip, I like those copperstrips, hmm, need to figure out how much of it I need for my stash, I will be reaching out to ya.
2. Insulation/outerskin/inbetween cells - What should I use and where can I get them?
 

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Here you go a link to a123 20 ah out cell build
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761
I made a 24s pack that lasted over eight years 1480 charge cycles. Wirh plastic and aluminum blocks and wrapped it with plastic panels and duct tape no b m s just balance wires. On page two.
That pack looks like a E.IG. from a motorcycle
 
999zip999 said:
Here you go a link to a123 20 ah out cell build
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761
I made a 24s pack that lasted over eight years 1480 charge cycles. Wirh plastic and aluminum blocks and wrapped it with plastic panels and duct tape no b m s just balance wires. On page two.
That pack looks like a E.IG. from a motorcycle

999,
Nice, real use case proves that a123 cells are capable.
I am not worried about bms as I hardly ride to drain the batts, but I will have one to monitor the cells, I will probably bypass it for mucho amps.
 
I have been researching wheels/tires etc for a road bike here and I have the following (just came in)

1. QS Motor 212
2. Flipsky 75100
3. Moped 19 wheel and moped tire (some german brand) (treatland)



Next:
Order spokes:
I need to measure the wheel for the ERD, my local bike shop don't do ANYTHING with ebikes due to liability unfortunately. So it is ALL me.
 

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My first wheel built was with a mxus 3,000 in a bicycle rim with the motor being so heavy at The Rim be so flimsy it was tough it should be easier with a stiffer rim. I like to see your progress.
 
999zip999 said:
My first wheel built was with a mxus 3,000 in a bicycle rim with the motor being so heavy at The Rim be so flimsy it was tough it should be easier with a stiffer rim. I like to see your progress.

Yeah, I have the extra heavy qs motor 212, that thing is a beast.
From all the post I have read, moto or moped rims are the shizzle.

I ended up getting a 19 inch moped and tire from treatland, it was very hard to find rims and tire at a good price.

ITALCEICHIO-rim-1.50x19 new RADAELLI ITALCEICHIO chrome deluxe 36 hole spoke rim - 1.50 x 19"
1 $69.99 $69.99
heidenau-M3-19x2.25-tire heidenau M3 moped tire - 2.25-19
1 $39.99 $39.99
 
ERD 462mm

https://www.treatland.tv/new-RADAELLI-ITALCEICHIO-chrome-deluxe-spoke-rim-p/italceichio-rim-1.50x19.htm

I used a rid/spline from my kite,

I am measuring from the outside of the dimples of the spoke holes.
I am good?
 

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Not the motor-- the system that has the motor as a component. I understand that you don't appreciate the difference because you haven't ever designed or constructed or repaired or assembled or specified or reconfigured any of this stuff.

I'm tired of calling you out on your ignorance and inexperience when you make proclamations. You're going into the bozo bucket. Others will figure it out for themselves.
I emailed Cyclone and they told me the motor needs regreasing every 3000 kilometers.

So yeah...I confirmed you have been giving bad advice to pedicab customers using the cyclone. No wonder you put me on ignore. You don't want to confront this. It hurts your bottom line.
 
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