Why does my 36v e- bike cut off when I put a 42v silver fish battery In place of the 36v silver fish battery

[mattyb1631]

When I run with the original 36v Silverfish battery on my arrow nine I believe 26 inch rims it runs fine and 25 miles an hour when I replace it with a 42v silverfish battery I want to 35 miles an hour but after five minutes the bikes shuts off. I have to Call the battery up so disconnects and push it back down and it restarts but then it just keeps cutting off after 15-20sec of throttle... I put the 36v battery back in and it’s fine... so it’s obviously Because of the battery I need to know is there something I can do to the motor control or something I can do to the battery that will bypass whatever is shutting the bike off? I’m trying to get the most speed as I can out of this thing.

 

[john61ct]

What is the maximum voltage the controller is designed to handle?

Are you sure the battery is in good shape? Has it been load tested?

 

[mattyb1631]

The controller looks like someone has changed and it’s dirty the info sticker is damaged so I can’t tell anything other than printed on the sicker is 48v controller but in pen there’s an x through it and someone wrote 36v It also looks like something cheap from China. I don’t know much about the 42v battery...it was given to me I tried it and it increased the speed significantly but then shuts off...I know the Voltage of the battery is only because of things I’ve read on the Internet and I have a multimeter and I tested the voltage coming from the bottom of the batteries

 

[mattyb1631]

When you say load tested what do you mean byThat?

 

[dogman dan]

Its not the high voltage cutoff, it would not start at all if that. I bet your new battery sags like grannies tits under load. So it hits LVC.

 

[mattyb1631]

Is there anyway to disable the lvcof that’s even the problem....why does it work fine with the 36v battery

 

[AussieRider]

If you have a spare charge plug with lead from an old charger handy you could connect it to a multimeter, plug it in to the charge socket of the battery & go for a ride. You'll soon see if the battery volts sag. Sort of McGyver load test.
Let us know how yous go.

AussieRider

 

[E-HP]

The controller looks like someone has changed and it’s dirty the info sticker is damaged so I can’t tell anything other than printed on the sicker is 48v controller but in pen there’s an x through it and someone wrote 36v It also looks like something cheap from China. I don’t know much about the 42v battery...it was given to me I tried it and it increased the speed significantly but then shuts off...I know the Voltage of the battery is only because of things I’ve read on the Internet and I have a multimeter and I tested the voltage coming from the bottom of the batteries

Maybe start by providing a link or picture of the label on the "42V" battery. 42V would be an unusual voltage, so it would be interesting to find out where you found something like that. A 36V batter, fully charged is 42V, so if you are using your meter and measuring your new battery at 42V, then it's a 36V battery. Chargers that come with 36V batteries will output 42V. Is that what your charger is outputting?

 

[mattyb1631]

Stand corrected it’s a 48v battery there is no stickers or markings other than I think the bikes serial number that it came with....so I don’t know for sure but the battery I’m claiming to be 48v is 54.4v when I test at botttom connection....36v battery cuts off at 42v so I know it’s bigger than 36v is there anything inside the top or bottom of the batter that would be a good indicator of the actual voltage?

 

[mattyb1631]

Stand corrected it’s a 48v battery there is no stickers or markings other than I think the bikes serial number that it came with....so I don’t know for sure but the battery I’m claiming to be 48v is 54.4v when I test at botttom connection....36v battery cuts off at 42v so I know it’s bigger than 36v is there anything inside the top or bottom of the batter that would be a good indicator of the actual voltage?

 

[john61ct]

Flying blind is not a good thing for something as basic as battery voltage.

Ideally the vendor tells you the truth.

Next best, open it up to check the xPyS layout.

Otherwise, do capacity testing

for top charge voltage start as if it is the lowest type you think possible,

say 11S, should hold a full capacity at 42V finish charge, but don't let it go down to 33V, for the bottom pretend it is the highest string you think possible

Bit of detective work.

 

[mattyb1631]

So the batterfuly charged shows 54v when fully charged and the charger pin order is different that the 36 volt battery 46v is 1&2 48v is 1&3... It’s safe to say it’s a 48 V Silverfish battery....I change the controller to 48v amd the back rim Motor to a new 1000w 48v motor all the wires and the motor in the back rim it’s the same thing it keeps cutting out and 75 secondsRemove the battery and put it back in for it to turn back on and where I can buy password ever safety features battery

 

[mattyb1631]

So I changed the controller to a 48v and the wire harness cleaned the connections where the battery connects into the frame Checked the positive and negative on the bike and in the battery all the connections are good I also change the backrim to 1000w 48V motor....The 36 V battery fully charged shows that it’s almost dead on the bikes gauge when I Put it in the bike.... so it’s Definitely a 36 V battery. The other battery which I was claiming is a 48 V battery reads full voltage and well I take it out I get almost up to 40 miles an hour just cuts out after 60 sec of throttle.... same exact problem!! So I got all new components on the bike but same battery so obviously the battery is the problem....What should I do can I repair this battery??

 

[john61ct]

#1. Build or buy a new one in a way that guarantees it is of top quality.

Yes 5 or 10x the cost of a POS that won't lsst 50 cycles maybe not work at all.

Then 2. you get any other issues resolved so you know you have an overall reliable rig.

Finally 3. with less stress and plenty of time, break down the old POS packs, do some objective testing and see if there's anything worth salvaging there.

Or sell them off if that learning curve doesn't interest you, but really IMO worth the investment for next time.

Batteries are consumables, like tires and brake pads.

 

[pullin-gs]

My controller works great on 10S 36V pack. It also works great for 13S 48V pack.
The controller auto-adjusts LVC for either a 10S or 13S pack.
However 12S is not so great......unfortunately it adjusts LVC for a 13S pack.
So over 4V (13*.33V) is left on the table.

 

[mattyb1631]

I’d like to thank everyone for your help! Ied me in the right direction, I needed a new battery....... I bought a new battery 48v 20ah the bike works like a dream the battery came with its own charger. I charged It fully when I first got it and I’ve charged it up maybe 10 times since after each ride.... going around 30 mph Have 1000 W motor on the back Wheel from Amazon Came with 1000w controller also....Runs great but I need it to be faster LOL! researched and this controller doesn’t have a white wire loop to disconnect that limits the speed like some stock E bikes have on their controllers.....Is there something you can do internally or is there a wire that I am missing that can be disconnected like that white loop you see in the videos on YouTube? There’s no loops at all on this controller actually seems like there’s less wires then some of these stock controllers There’s no loops at all on this controller actually seems like there’s less wires then some of these stock controllers. controller is LY-48v1000w P-19EBE000002 can Anybody help?