Will the Cannondale Quick 5, Trek FX 1 or Marin Fairfax 1's BB accomodate the BBSHD?

FMercury

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Hi everyone- will the Cannondale Quick 5, trek FX 1 or Marin Fairfax 1's BB accomodate the BBSHD? I'd like to confirm 100% before I drive to the bike shop and buy one new. Thanks in advance :)
 
What kind of BB do those frames have?

What length is it?

Those are the things you need to find out, to see if they are compatible with any version of the BBSHD, along with the info for the particular version of the BBSHD you intend to use with them.
 
FMercury said:
Hi everyone- will the Cannondale Quick 5, trek FX 1 or Marin Fairfax 1's BB accomodate the BBSHD? I'd like to confirm 100% before I drive to the bike shop and buy one new. Thanks in advance :)

To make it as easy as possible on yourself, get a bike with a threaded 68mm bottom bracket shell. I think all of the bikes you mentioned have one.

All three of those bikes are just about the cheapest, most basic multi-speed bike that a reputable bike shop can sell with a straight face. Moderate your expectations of them. They’re easy to wear out or break, compared to better quality bikes. Their durability is just okay, when they only have to withstand pedal power. Feed them several times as much power, and they’ll display their limitations. They would all be much happier with a BBS01.

Avoid the Trek, because it has a freewheel rather than a cassette, so you’ll bend and break the axle easily with elevated speeds and high chain loads. That’s unfortunate, because at this price point, its linear-pull rim brakes are a better bet than the cheapest available disc brakes like the other two bikes have.

It would not be a bad idea to consider spending a similar amount (purchase plus repairs) on a secondhand bike of more robust construction. You’re likely to get longer, more reliable service from it.
 
Balmorhea said:
It would not be a bad idea to consider spending a similar amount (purchase plus repairs) on a secondhand bike of more robust construction. You’re likely to get longer, more reliable service from it.

Thanks! I actually would be 100% fine with purchasing a higher-quality bike second hand-- but honestly, I'm new to bikes so I simply don't know much (yet). Would it be better, then, to buy the "nicer" models of the ones I listed? Like getting a Trek FX 3 instead of the FX 1, for example? Should I be looking at something like a Trek marlin 6? Could you recommend a few bikes similar to the above that are at a slightly higher price point that I should check out?

Sadly, the used bike market isn't amazing right now and buying new seems so much easier
 
FMercury said:
Balmorhea said:
It would not be a bad idea to consider spending a similar amount (purchase plus repairs) on a secondhand bike of more robust construction. You’re likely to get longer, more reliable service from it.

Thanks! I actually would be 100% fine with purchasing a higher-quality bike second hand-- but honestly, I'm new to bikes so I simply don't know much (yet). Would it be better, then, to buy the "nicer" models of the ones I listed? Like getting a Trek FX 3 instead of the FX 1, for example? Should I be looking at something like a Trek marlin 6? Could you recommend a few bikes similar to the above that are at a slightly higher price point that I should check out?

Sadly, the used bike market isn't amazing right now and buying new seems so much easier

Tell me about it. Every day, folks come to my bike shop asking for a used bike, when we sold clean out of all we had months ago.

In looking into other bikes that might work better, I saw that the Cannondale Quick 7 has significantly better components than the Quick 5, plus linear-pull brakes that work better at this low price point.

The Marin Muirwoods is a categorically better bike and probably better value, but also in a whole other price category at $800ish.

The two best selling bikes at my shop cost, this year, $429 and $599. The more expensive one sells a little better and is a much nicer bike for the money.

From $400 up to about $1000 retail is by far the steepest part of the value:price curve, where every little bit extra you are able/willing to spend is likely to get you substantial improvements in durability, performance, and serviceability. Most bikes in this price range are built from industry standard, widely interchangeable and compatible parts (unlike a lot of more expensive bikes these days). The only real pitfalls in this price range are paying too much for a brand name, or paying for crappy gimmicks like cheap suspension, cheap disc brakes, needlessly curved and shaped frame tubing, or low-spoke-count wheels.
 
Balmorhea said:
Tell me about it. Every day, folks come to my bike shop asking for a used bike, when we sold clean out of all we had months ago.

In looking into other bikes that might work better, I saw that the Cannondale Quick 7 has significantly better components than the Quick 5, plus linear-pull brakes that work better at this low price point.

The Marin Muirwoods is a categorically better bike and probably better value, but also in a whole other price category at $800ish.

Thanks for all of this information! The Marin Muirwoods and the Cannondale Quick 7 are definately both within my price range and I also do like the looks of them\. I'll see if I can get on one for a test spin, or even just buy one online new. Off the top of your head, they both have a 68mm bottom bracket shell?

Just to confirm-- you think the pull brakes is better than disc brakes when sporting a BBSHD?
 
FMercury said:
Off the top of your head, they both have a 68mm bottom bracket shell?

As far as I know, yes.

Just to confirm-- you think the pull brakes is better than disc brakes when sporting a BBSHD?

No, that's not it. Linear-pull brakes ("V-brakes") are a better choice when shopping in the sub-$500 price range, because very cheap discs are bad brakes, and because they will have exacted cost reductions in other important parts.

Linear-pull brakes are easy to maintain (usually) and easy to improve if desired. Discs are not as easy to maintain, and they don't offer easy ways to improve them, other than replacing them with better versions.
 
Balmorhea said:
No, that's not it. Linear-pull brakes ("V-brakes") are a better choice when shopping in the sub-$500 price range, because very cheap discs are bad brakes, and because they will have exacted cost reductions in other important parts.
Though if the budget allows, it's easy enough to replace the really cheap brakes with something like the Avid BB7's, which can sometimes be found on sale as cheaply as $40-$60 with a rotor; so you can at least change out the front one and then the rear as well if you find it necessary.

The BB7 has worked very well on the SB Cruiser trike (though I'm also using it with an Avid lever, too, it should work with whatever lever is already on the bike).
 
You also might want to peruse this (and google further info):

https://www.empoweredcycles.com/blogs/news/101474694-bottom-bracket-standards-and-bafang-mid-drive-motors
 
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