Wiring/Connecting/Terminating Materials Thread.

Gregb said:
I recently bought a cell log 8M voltmeter and this showed that one of the sockets on the 9pin connector on my LiFepo4 battery was faulty.
It is not possible to reconnect it. Does anyone know where these in line sockets can be bought?? They are very similar to ribbon connector types but would prefer a different manner of connection ie crimp or even solder.
Thanks
Greg
Hi Greg sorry I missed this post

Have you tried HobbyKing? Here is the link to their connections section: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=121&curPage=1&v=&sortlist=&LiPoConfig=

What is the exact specification of your battery, is it 8s {24v} or what? Can you post a pic? Thanks.
 
copper-awg-metric-table.jpg


I am posting this so European/British users can have some sort of reference guide.

6.0mm2 is between 10 AWG and 9 AWG wires.

So, I guess the question now becomes...what sort of current can I efficiently fire down a 10AWG line?
 
Wire Gauge Maximum Recommended Fuse Size

00 awg ------- 400 amps
0 awg----------- 325 amps
1 awg----------- 250 amps
2 awg----------- 200 amps
4 awg----------- 125 amps
6 awg----------- 80 amps
8 awg----------- 50 amps
10 awg---------- 30 amps
12 awg---------- 20 amps
14 awg---------- 15 amps
16 awg---------- 7.5 amps


"These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe."


http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
 
In my own particular case, the wire would not be any more than 4 or 5 inches long, and the batteries have already been connected with heavy duty copper shim and braided jump-lead wire {aluminium core, copper coated}

DSCN4606-1.jpg


My current issue basically is limited to the final termination of the pack into a spade end connector via a short length of 6.0mm2/10AWG wire.

One "idea" I did have was to take a 6AWG length, pare back the insulation, then trim off some of the wire, just enough to fit the spade end on. Any ideas?

Thanks.
 
Hi Greg sorry I missed this post

Have you tried HobbyKing? Here is the link to their connections section: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=121&curPage=1&v=&sortlist=&LiPoConfig=

What is the exact specification of your battery, is it 8s {24v} or what? Can you post a pic? Thanks.

Yes thanks have been there. they don't have 8s connectors listed. I even sent them an email but got a reply that "their staff aren't qualified to answer such questions" and to post on their forum, which I have done so. Have found a couple of bulk suppliers but have to buy a minimum of 100 pins at .45cents each plus multiple cases (10) plus postage etc . Trying to avoid this. I am in Oz.
thanks
Greg
 
Thought I should put this post on this thread too...

From... Re: LiPo battery care and basic information
deVries said:
Unless someone can persuade me otherwise, I want to comment about using Anderson type connectors with a CAUTIONARY NOTE: I've seen SEVERAL confessions of ANDERSON connector failure BY SEVERAL OF THE BEST EXPERTS, i.e. BEST EXPERIENCED battery builders and test experts on ES, wherein the SPRING LOAD inside the connector failed to push itself into proper contact with the male/female other side of the connection...

THEN, the pack that had this fault either got the battery damaged/destroyed or readings were never received or THE CHARGE didn't go into that sub-pack! :evil: :evil: :evil:

There are other more reliable ways to make battery related connections w/o having *any* concerns with this type of fault condition. Mistakenly not connecting LiPo for charging, riding, or taking readings is giving an excellent incentive for a lipo-volcano to erupt in a meltdown fusing stuff with amp-burns or shorts, or heat damage and puffing, or worse, and/or cost mucho $$$ to replace the damaged goods...

AND, if you're considering doing touring or long rides away from "easy repair", then consider this...
Crash Machine said:
Thanks for the answers guys I may try some Lipo with the Ping battery and post my results. As for Anderson connectors, I rode a long cross country run this summer, lots of jarring,connecting and disconnecting and I had problems in the middle of nowhere. It burned the connector from the arcing. I probably replaced 5 or more Andersons for different reasons...


:shock:
 
auraslip said:
The retailers use them because they are fool proof, which probably leads people to assume that they are the best.... :roll:

I was always unimpressed by how hard they were to complete and how little metal they actually bring into contact with each other.
 
How about we discuss balance taps for a bit. I have an 18s pack that would be dandy to have one large plug on. Any suggestions for a 19 pin connector set that I can construct without special crimpers? I was thinking dvi or parallel cable hacked up.
 
The Mighty Volt said:
auraslip said:
Andersons are for ham radios mmmkay?
:p Seriously...why do so many people buy into the Anderson myth?

Having been involved in electronics and Ham Radio for a very long time, we have seen a lot of poor connectors. The various manufacturers used connectors such as Molex and similar inexpensive connectors that were designed for low current and infrequent reconnections for Ham Radio power connectors, and many of them proved to be unreliable at the higher current levels used by Ham Radio equipment.

Manufacturers did not help by using nonstandard connectors for their equipment, so Icom, Yaesu, Kenwood et al had power cords that were not easily interchanged. This leads to problems especially in emergency operations where a lot of different equipment may share the same 12 volt power grid.

There were efforts to standardize on a connector. Early on this led to a "standard" Molex connector for 10 Amp applications, and a trailer type connector for the 25 amp radios. Neither of these proved very satisfactory. The Molex connectors overheated with use as their resistance increased with each unplug cycle. The trailer connectors never seemed to catch on.

Some emergency services groups chose Anderson Powerpoles and started a new "standard". I was very resistant to these connectors, but eventually tried some. They were dramatically better than the Molex or trailer connectors in many ways, though not perfect. The current required by Ham Radios is generally under 10 amps average but peaks or short term continuous currents up to 25 amps are common on a 100 watt radio. Under this use a properly installed 30 amp Powerpole doesn't even get warm.

The crimpers were a problem. The Anderson crimpers were about $160 and handled only 2 of the 3 sizes of pins. So two crimpers were required. So the amateur community tried to find other crimpers that would do the job. It was not very satisfactory as the barrel needs to be crimped but not distorted too much to fit in the body of the connector. It is vital that the pin move to allow the spring to hold the connector pins in contact under the proper tension. Many connectors were not properly crimped. Many were soldered which worked but made the wires stiff and impeded the spring action the pins use to mate properly.

Eventually West Mountain Radio made a high quality ratcheting crimper that would handle all three connector pins and was more than three times cheaper than the "official" Anderson tool. More recently another tool, the "Tri Crimp" has been introduced and the prices on tools has come down further.

The Powerpoles are fairly well suited to Amateur Radio needs. They are not weather resistant, but generally radios are kept out of the weather. They disconnect easily which is both a problem and helpful in protecting rigs from being yanked off the table or cords broken.

If you look at the specifications for the Powerpoles you will see that they will warm up at 20 amps continuous, and are not a good choice for continuous currents over 20 amps.

I spoke to the West Coast Anderson Sales Manager some years ago. He said the company was quite surprised by all the popularity in Amateur Radio. They make lots of better connectors, but the price of quality commercial connectors as well as their size makes them less suitable for the price sensitive Amateur market. Of course RC is an even more price sensitive market.

What makes the 30 amp Powerpoles work well? They use pure solid copper for the contact, and silver plating which is conductive even when oxidized and has a lower resistance than even gold. They use a stainless steel spring to provide the mating forces. These are the best materials for the purpose. They have a self cleaning wiping action. All these things are combined into a good design at low cost compared to other connectors rated at similar resistance, current capacity and cyclic durability.

What about bullet connectors?

If you actually look at the contact area, and cross sectional area of the current carrying elements in many or even most bullet connectors and banana plugs, they tend to suffer from a couple of problems. One is the spring material is often not a proper material for springs. It loses tension very quickly after a few insert cycles. If the plug carries high current and the spring material heats up it usually loses what little tension it had and things get worse quickly. Another problem is the actual contact and immediately adjacent current carrying cross sectional area is too small. It should be similar to the maximum wire size the connector can handle. While the theoretical contact area of perfectly fitting telescoping cylinders is great, this is not what they have. Their actual contact is a few "lines" or in some cases "points" inside the tube, and even that is not fully down the length of the tube due to the way the forces push the materials together. Consider in detail the contact forces and areas. There is a lot of experience on the net about bullets getting hot at high current and melting things in their vicinity. The rating system they use for current capacity is highly suspect.

Many of the connectors we are using in the ebike business are from the RC market. That is an incredibly cost sensitive market and this leads to marginal designs. While the current levels in RC are high, their life is generally short and their runtimes are relatively brief also. Connector failures are the cause of many crashes but are not always diagnosed. In many cases RC applications have a lot more cooling airflow than a typical ebike application. RC components need to be derated for safe ebike use.

Failures in ebikes can be very expensive and even dangerous. Controllers, batteries even motors may be damaged or destroyed. A severe case might even cause a serious accident. We need to choose more reliable and conservatively rated connectors and treat their installation and inspection seriously.

In my case I plan to use Powerpoles only at currents below 20 amps, such as auxiliary and lighting circuits. For the main power circuit I will move on to higher rated connectors such as SB-50's which are rated at 50 amps but far more capable than the 30 amp Powerpoles at handling overloads. The SB-50's will handle up to 6 gauge wire which the table rated above recommends 80 amp fuses for.

This is serious power we are dealing with. It deserves a bit more respect than it often gets.
 
johnrobholmes said:
How about we discuss balance taps for a bit. I have an 18s pack that would be dandy to have one large plug on. Any suggestions for a 19 pin connector set that I can construct without special crimpers? I was thinking dvi or parallel cable hacked up.

DB25 connectors... get good ones, not Chinese 50 cent craptastics. Make sure to use heat shrink on all the connections. You don't want a lead to come off and touch its neighbor.
 
Alan B- Before you group all barrel connectors in the same light, you've gotta buy a set of these and you will understand.



http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6580

Of if you like plastic housings rather than doing your own shrink type insulation (I like shrink rather than plastic personally).
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12887
 
liveforphysics said:
Alan B- Before you group all barrel connectors in the same light, you've gotta buy a set of these and you will understand.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6580

Of if you like plastic housings rather than doing your own shrink type insulation (I like shrink rather than plastic personally).
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=12887

I don't think I said that all of them are useless. Those have beefy contacts instead of the thin contacts some have.

I wish they would say what wire sizes fit their connectors. Do they fit 8mm wire, or what wire diameter will they accept?

I may try some. It would be nice if they would publish temperature rise vs current charts. Do you think they will actually handle 170 amps without heating up?? How much do we have to derate them for ebike use?? What is the temperature rise at 170 amps? With heatshrink? Are they easy to plug and unplug?j Are they a replacement for a connector that is cycled daily or are they more suitable for something that rarely is unplugged?

I have some 4mm bullet types coming to fit the connectors that come on the 25S 5AH Turnigy Lipo packs, we'll see if they will handle even 50A. The battery is rated at 125A, will those 4mm bullets handle even 50A? The saving grace is that at 50A the batteries only last 6 minutes and something else will probably overheat too.
 
Just with the 6.5mm barrel connectors from HC, 4awg wire was getting soft with heat while the connector spot was the coolest place in the circuit.
I've simply never been able to make the 8mm connectors show any signs of heating at all under any conditions, but generally for very high current things, I generally just bolt together terminal to bus-bar rather than using a connector.

The described diameter is the bore in the female pin, so you can crudely gauge the wire size hole via perspective from the photos.

I have a micro-ohm meter now :) So I can decently quantify some connector values.

calr.jpg
 
Also, with this barrel connector design, not only can the connection surfaces easily be inspected for arc damage, but if you somehow manage to make the connection pressure from each independently sprung prong on the male side become weak, you can set a center-tap in the recessed area and bump it with a hammer to re-spread them to develop whatever tension you desire. In practice though, I would say they require at least 15-20lbs of force to connect each pin, and seems to get slightly easier after the surfaces seat and polish against each other from many connection cycles. If the full 15-20lbs of connection force is desired again, a simple tap of the punch and you've got it back.


There is a fine reason why every mil-spec connector uses gold plateing rather than silver. Gold plated contacts start out good, and stay good even after years in harsh enviroments.

Silver on the other hand pretty rapidly tarnishes with a silver oxide coating. People love this stuff silver oxide being a good conductor. It's not.

Copper: 1.7 X 10^-8 ohm-m
Silver: 1.6 X 10^-8 ohms-m
Gold: 2.4 X 10^-8 ohms-m
Silver Sulfide: 1.5 to 2.0 X 10^-3 ohm-m
Silver Oxide: 1 x 10^+9 ohms-m

There is also a Silver PerOxide that has lower resistance, but still over 10,000 times worse than gold...

Gold = Consistant, and if you're just coating copper with it, it's a no-brainer over silver IMHO.
 
Those 8mm bullets (barrel?) connectors are a bitch to plug and unplug. There isn't enough grip on them, and many cases the wires themselves must be used if pliers are not employed. I use them on every 6s serial connection and on the terminal ends of the pack. Then I use either 4mm bullet, 35a andersons, or 75a andersons depending on the bike.
 
Quite a meter you have there!

If we define a good connector only by the resistance those 8mm connectors apparently do well. If we add to the requirements the convenience factors of having a good handle for plug and unplug convenience and good gripping they may not fare so well. Perhaps the models with tube sleeves are better there.

Gold contacts often wear poorly. Gold plating over copper doesn't hold up, so they have to use nickel or something under that may not be a great conductor. 20 pounds of force without a good handle is difficult to work with.

Andersons have a wiping silver contact that self cleans. Silver plating over copper works well and wears well. They also have pretty good handles and springs that operate at consistent but fairly low forces. Silver is also a good material for handing arcing contacts which is an issue on ebike battery circuits.

I see the 6mm size bullets are rated to 250 amps! Even better than the 8mm units!! And no wire size listed. Are they large enough for 250 amp rated wire??

It appears that the 4mm barrels on the Turnigy batteries have 10 gauge wire. When mine arrive I'll see if that is their limit.

Perhaps we need an ES connector experience thread. List common connectors and their wire sizes and ratings from experience, and real measurements. Perhaps that is this thread, though I haven't seen the data here.

Back to balance plugs. I'm planning to use DB-9's on my 8S packs. Is there a standardized wiring for DB-9, DB-15 and DB-25 balance plug wiring? Clearly the female connector should go on the battery side. But is there a standardized or common pinout to follow?
 
I have not seen any standard pinout. One would assume that it would be best practice to spread the cells so that the first and last terminations were not close to each other, to prevent possible arcing from the higher voltage difference.

One way would be like this, with 1 denoting most negative and 25 most positive. Alternatively you could go up and down so that the voltage climbed from right to left evenly without the physically close 48v difference that pin 1 and 14 would have following this diagram


images
 
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