Wiring ignition help
- Thread starter elysium
- Start date
Details of the bike/vehicle its motor and battery as well as the controller specs could provide the required background to answer properly. It looks like a scooter/moped controller? which generally have simple make/short to activate lock wires.. and suitable locks have the only 2 wires to connect to. its often the full battery voltage employed over this circuit.
It's an escooter KuKirin G4 which i am converting to dual motor with this controller so i want to keep the stock key which tye scooter has
It’s likely the red and orange conductors for the pic of the connector are connected electrically to the red and orange conductors on the display connector. You can verify this by measuring continuity between the two red conductors, and between the two orange. If the are the same, then it’s likely that connecting orange to red will power on the controller. If you bought the controller with a compatible display, then you’d use the display buttons to turn it on. Are you using the key switch to turn on both controllers?
yes its paired with a display which has a button turn on but i want to add the key. Its a single controller for two motors
If your controller turns on using the display buttons, then the separate connector would only be used for running without a display; so to add a key switch you would cut the orange conductor going to the display and insert your switch. Doing so would require you to first turn on the key switch, before using the display buttons to turn on the bike.
Since it's an escooter we'll move this thread to Stand-up EScooter/ESkateboards section.
Sorry English is not my native language so i don't know most of the terms. Also am i new so i don't know much about wiring these controllers. So i clip the orange wire and insert the key switch where? To the battery lock on the picture i sent at first?
Generally the red wire feeding a display with a power switch is the positive battery voltage, one of the return wires (orange?) will connect to the battery voltage when the on switch is 'turned on' to start the controller and disengage when switched off. you can test with a volt meter for this behaviour to confirm before cutting any wires.
If it's the orange wire what's the next step
One connection to the switch goes to one end of the clipped orange wire, and the other connection goes to the other end of the clipped wire.
As I mentioned earlier, test that the orange wire from the display has continuity with the orange wire of the ignition plug you provided a pic of.
Thanks i understand now
To fit and use a generic lock switch to replace the display on/off button i would ..
After connecting up the battery controllers and motors as expected and confirming all works.. (ensure no faults with the system to throw you off course)
Confirm that without the display unit plugged in shorting/connecting the 2 wires in the Battery lock connection pictured above Turns on the bike (test with throttle twist and motor drive wheel off the ground).
And after confirming that the orange wire carries the same voltage as the red wire AFTER the bike switch is turned on and is not when turned off. You can disconnect the battery and cut the orange wire to the display and use the Battery lock connection with a generic on off lock switch.
However key lock switches are a visual deterrent to an opportunist thief, a simpler less invasive plug and play security solution can be found using an additional stick on hydraulic brake sensor and Y splitter cable for the brake cut off system.
Find a place on your bike/scooter you can hide the new brake sensor and glue it in place, if not a magnetic surface, cut a small square or strip from a steel food tin and epoxy that next to your hidden sensor, and use the Y splitter cable to add the new brake sensor into the bikes/scooters existing brake sensor wiring. Now without a magnet stuck on the steel next to the sensor even with the bike turned on on the display or with a key lock the motor will not start until you put the magnet there, or slide it close.. (i slide the magnet out of sensor reach ,,so can 'arm and disarm my secret security without any obvious signs.. ( cost <$10 ali express) (flat magnets dont stick to tubes well..)
Find a place on your bike/scooter you can hide the new brake sensor and glue it in place, if not a magnetic surface, cut a small square or strip from a steel food tin and epoxy that next to your hidden sensor, and use the Y splitter cable to add the new brake sensor into the bikes/scooters existing brake sensor wiring. Now without a magnet stuck on the steel next to the sensor even with the bike turned on on the display or with a key lock the motor will not start until you put the magnet there, or slide it close.. (i slide the magnet out of sensor reach ,,so can 'arm and disarm my secret security without any obvious signs.. ( cost <$10 ali express) (flat magnets dont stick to tubes well..)
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I just checked and orange wire to LCD has continuity with orange on the battery lock. Does that mean i have 2 options to wire it. 1. Wire the switch like @E-HP said "One connection to the switch goes to one end of the clipped orange wire, and the other connection goes to the other end of the clipped wire." which i assume when i turn the key on i will have to turn on from the display also or 2. The way you said to cut the LCD orange wire and connect the key to battery lock wires i showed which i assume will result in instant power on off the display when i turn on the key without having to turn it on from the display. Am i right?
Not sure about instant display power on.. that may depend on the display complexity, if a simple led bar graph of battery voltage, perhaps, but if it involves any low voltage logic circuitry that will probable still require its own dedicated on switch to be activated??
the continuity tests you have performed suggest its pretty safe to 'suck it n see'
for testing rather than cut wires check youtube for info on removing connector pins from jst plugs/sockets..
