Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

8)
hell yeh Y!!!
my two cents would be drive on the downtube and batts in the trangle but then i'm biased :lol:
y any reason you didn't match up the rear with a larger rim? i haven't found any difference in torque between a 20 and 24 tbh?
Anyway bike looks sweet :wink: hope its a smooth assembly bro :D really looking forward to the nuvinci's peformance.

D
 
Hey Guys !

Been at this most of the day, taking my time and doing it right..

Originally i wanted to go with 20" wheels front and back but the pedals would be hitting the ground too easily.. going with 24" front gives me just enough lift. I wanted a compact bike, my bikes come in the house most of the time and the bigger they are the more hassle they are to park in the living room ! :mrgreen:

Can't wait to give it a go, I"m taking the IPS cranks to my local bike shop this week to fit it with a 2nd sproket, so i can run a chain to the cranks, and a 2nd chain to the rear wheel.

Driving the Nuvinci directly from the RC drive would be difficult as the motor foot would not end up centered on the frame ( or i'd need a longer shaft for the freewheel side ) .. so driving the front cranks is the plan at the moment !
 

Attachments

  • RC2.JPG
    RC2.JPG
    41.8 KB · Views: 3,925
Looks good!

For right side drive, the FW adaptor will need to be modded so the freewheel can thread on from the hub side first. I can mod one and send it to you or you can do it if you have access to a lathe.

I am interested to see how the hub runs with the drive. :D

Matt
 
I got my hands on an ACS southpaw 16t freewheel, and you sir are correct.. i need reversed threads on that adapter for it to work.. otherwise i have to mount a sproket on the left of the nuVinci and drive it fixed gear on the left.. also an option but not as nice :lol:

The foot of the drive is symetrical, so i can still make the mounts and drive the left for now, then get the reversed thread adapter.. actually.... PM on the way ! :D
 
Actually, the new FW adaptor will not be reverse threaded. I machine the bottoming shoulder off and reduce the set screw shoulder diameter. That allows the freewheel (normal right hand thread freewheel) to thread on from the hub side of the freewheel first. That way even with right hand threads, it will work properly.

Oh, I would highly recommend a White Industries freewheel. They are the only freewheels that survive with this muvh power long term.

Matt
 
sweeeeeet 8)
with no rear suss to worry about thats where i'd put it Y
whats the diameter of that seatpost? you could go the clamp route like Gary if you don't have fixings already planned?
Also whats the plan for power? hv110/140? what about batts?


D
 
nice 8)
you know it makes sense :wink:
A123 ftw!!!

D
 
Small update.

Went to the local bike shop this pas saturday.. ( They finally quit asking 1000 questinos why i want what i ask for ! lol )

So i now have a stock 39t on the IPS cranks, i picked up a 48t chainring that can be bolted to the inside or the outside depending on what chain goes where.. if i put the 48t on the inside it comes.. REALLY close to the frame, may be forced to run the 48t on the outside and this puts it out of line with the rear wheel, meaning 39t to the Nuvinci and 48t to the motor.

I have 16t, 18t, and 22t ENO freewheels in the mail, should arrive next week most likely. Along with some half link KHE 1/8 chain.

I need to figure out what to run on the 2nd stage of the drive ( 16,18 or 22 ), to the front cranks (39 or 48 ) , then from the cranks to the Nuvinci Hub that is in a 20" rim.

Motor is a 6 turn 3210 reduced 9:1 and will be run at 48v ( 15 cell PSI for now until winter, then over winter switch to LiPo ! )

Do i want to gear it high, or gear it low ? that is the question.
 
I would gear for 35mph unloaded as a baseline. At least that is what I am doing on my bike :mrgreen: Not enough to get me in trouble at first, and seems like a good speed to gather heat information with.
 
get to it Y :lol:
i love it when new bling arrives at the post office :) chain guide and tensioner coming soon for me, ah those lovely packages.
How long do you think befor the TF is go? !!!!

Cheers,

D
 
Hi,

johnrobholmes said:
I would gear for 35mph unloaded as a baseline.
Click to expand...

I think the drive is through the Nuvinci. If so 35mph at the top end of the Nuvinci will probably be about 8mph :twisted: at the low end of the Nuvinci.

I would start with gearing it for the top speed you want and assume that will be more than enough reduction at the low end.
 
Ok.. so it took 4 hands and a bible worth of bad words to get the crappy freewheel off the NuVinci !! ( word to anyone out there who gets a N.V. don't put a freewheel on your hub that you plan to remove unless you have the right tool !!! ) but it's out.

Now time to figure out what threads on where..

I am no mathematician or physicist, so bear with me if this is all screwed up.. here goes if you feel brave enough to read thru it..

I have the choice of 2 front chainrings:
48t
39t

3 x ENO freewheels :
16t
18t
22t
-----------
- 20” rear wheel = 50cm( Diameter ) x 3.14 = 157cm
- 50 km = 50,000m
- (50,000 meters) divided by (157 centimeters) = 31 847.1338 ( as per google ! )
- 31,847 rotations in 60 minutes = 530.78 Rpm to get me 50 km/h ( 30 mph )
-----------
Now this is the part i start to have problems with..
- 3210 Astroflight 6 turn motor at 48v i think gives aprox 10,000 rpm and lets assume 8000rpm at cruising speed.. ( + or - i'm not sure )

- On Astroflight site : 275 rpm/v with LFP 15 cells 45v x 275 = 12,375pm :twisted: :shock:

- 2 stage Matt-Box reduction 9:1

- 8000rpm / 9 = 888 rpm
- 10,000rpm / 9 = 1111 rpm

Geared Low:
16t on motor and 48t on cranks = 16:48 = 1:3
39t on cranks and 22t on rear wheel = 39:22 = 1:0.5
888rpm / 3 = 296rpm / 0.5 = 592 :?:
10,000rpm / 3 = 333rpm / 0.5 = 666 :twisted:

Geared High:
22t on motor and 39t on cranks = 22:39 = 1:1.77
48t on cranks and 16t on rear wheel = 48:16 = 1:0.3
888pm / 1.77 = 501rpm / 0.3 = 1670
10,000rpm / 1.77 = 5650 rpm / 0.3 = 18,833 ?? that can't be right ?

Now the NV has a ratio of 350%

ok. it's way late and going to bed.. will check this again in the morning and realize how horribly off track i am.. lol.
 
Ypedal said:
Not a perfect match, but close !.. 8)
Click to expand...

Good enough! Besides, this bike is gonna just be a red blur anyhow. :lol:

-JD
 
Hi Y,

For a ballpark figure use 85% of the kv (the kv figure is without a load).

Go here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/internal.html
I'd use the Pulldowns:
Wheel Size: 20" Nominal
Gear Units: MPH at 80 or 100 rpm
Internal Hub: NuVinci

Using 20" nominal for tire size, MPH at 100 RPM and rear 22t with a 39t on the chainring yields:
Gear chart using MPH @ 100 RPM

For 20 inch (nominal) tire with 170 mm cranks and 22 tooth sprocket

With NuVinci continuously-variable range Hub
This small version of the chart can be printed, cut out, and taped to your bicycle for reference.

18.5
5.3
Click to expand...

Which might not be what you want (to tired to figure it out) but you can plug in whatever figures you are looking for.

FYI you can use this link for derailleurs:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Looking for help sourcing a motor for my ebike setup
2
Replies
49
Views
3,348
Hummina Shadeeba
H
Squilt
    • Like
4kW dropout mounted RC drive
Replies
12
Views
2,541
neptronix
neptronix
L
Variable regen, torque sensor, display
Replies
16
Views
1,040
E-HP
E-HP
R
    • Like
A critique of mid-drive riding recommendations (and hub drive criticisms)
Replies
22
Views
14,577
ebike4healthandfitness
ebike4healthandfitness
C
Chimera”... Antique style E bike build, circa 1915...why and how
Replies
12
Views
4,419
classicalgas
C
Back
Top