Yamaha xs400 qs180 conversion

[j bjork]

I don't think you should maintain high speed, running unknown amounts of fw etc. without monitoring the motortemp..
It doesn't sound like your settings are ok if you loose power at full throttle, I think you should lower your currents a lot until you have found better settings.
I ran a fardriver nd961800 in the beginning, and I used the tempsensor. I don't remember how I set it up, but it might be in the thread.
The motortemp is also important for the controller to know when it is calculating its timings etc. So not using the sensor can very well be part of the tuning problem.

 

[Wheelsandall]

Is it me or am I not getting any field weakening?

 

[dominik h]

If the motor is set up with correct values you only reached 1300rpm in the graph, no need for weakening field and you only got 70-80A from the battery.
It records 50seconds after turning the controller on. I never tried what happens after the 50 seconds, probably it overwrites the values.

I turn the controller on, accelerate with full throttle until I reach top speed and then brake until stationary, make a Screenshot and then I have most of the data I need.
Other good way to find problems, is running a screen recorder which records the phone display, while the meter page is displayed.

 

[Wheelsandall]

ok I’ll try that tomorrow. I just got a phone holder for the bike I can actually do that. The way I did this one was by screen recording and using the gather feature but when I put the phone in my pocket the screen went sideways and got distorted and unreadable so I’ll do another on tomorrow.

 

[Wheelsandall]

also on a side note it looks like the qs180 uses a pt1000 temp sensor which is not an option on the FarDriver.

 

[dominik h]

also on a side note it looks like the qs180 uses a pt1000 temp sensor which is not an option on the FarDriver.

As the winding has much better cooling like inside a hub motor, maybe the calculation will be good enough, but I would check the motor outside temperature and would start with lower rated power.

The motor is rated 8kW and you have set 20kW as rated power.
If you set it too low, the only thing that will happen is that the controller reduces power, because it calculates the motor temperature too high, but nothing will be damaged

 

[Wheelsandall]

I did change the rated power back to 8k. After watching an hour long video on programming the FarDriver I changed a few settings. I did a screen record on the way in. The graph section seems to record one frame and stop so that wasn’t much help. So I switched to the graph and got this. It says weak so I’m guessing that’s the field weakening. The interesting part is that the FarDriver display on the bike which is calibrated to the gps Speedo goes to 99mph so I’m thinking the gps stops at 93. Happy to se some high wattage numbers. I think the high watt/low rpm numbers are because of the high gearing. Is it me or is that not getting full throttle?

 

[dominik h]

Full throttle should be 4.0 to 4.2 V.
You can check the throttle when you are standing still and brake is applied or the side stand is down, so motor rotation is not allowed for the controller.

 

[Wheelsandall]

I tried it with the wheel off the ground but had to blip the throttle and I think it was too fast to display. I tried it with the brake and it wouldn’t even pick up the throttle it just beeped. It did go to 264 though

 

[dominik h]

Mine shows throttle voltages even when brake is applied and it is beeping.

The picture looks wrong to me.
180A Battery current with 0,87V throttle, which equals zero throotle and on the other hand it is showing 256 which should be full throttle, but the phase currents do not match to none of the values.

 

[Wheelsandall]

Ok so here’s some better snapshots. Looks like the throttle is going full. It boggles my mind that this thing can hit 45,000 watts while my ebike draws 500. Now I’m wonder g is the BMS is cutting out at higher speed since it’s rated at 500 amps. I also still think my gearing it to high and is really taxing the system since the rpm’s are still low. Hopefully my 10t sprocket will be in tomorrow and I’ll see how it is going from 3.9:1 to 4.7:1.

 

[dominik h]

45kw much more power as the XS400 ever had. 5krpm and weakening field is used.
Throttle voltage is looking good.
Would like to know what the numbers next to the throttle voltage are good for.

Tripping the BMS at full power is not a good thing.
You can try to make a screen recording with Split screen or only from the BMS while you are using full power to see what is going on.
Or just limit your controller to 400A.

I do not know how the Daly reacts when you draw more than 400A for longer periods.
Is there a overcurrent time and level which can be set in the software?

My 200A JK-B2A-24S-20P can do 350 for longer periods and 500A for 10 seconds, but cut out and after 13 seconds 500A and did never turn on again after that, but nothing inside us damaged.

 

[Wheelsandall]

I think I will lower amperage at the controller once I get everything figured out. Now that I know what it’s drawing there’s no point in blowing up the BMS. I did hit 50,000 watts and that’s about all I can expect from this setup so im happy. The motor is only warm to the touch so assuming the controller is reading correctly, all the reports of how much this motor can handle are very true.

 

[Wheelsandall]

I put the 10t sprocket in the front to lower the gear ratio. I noticed a slight increase in low end but lost about 10mph on the top end. It’s also cogging i don’t know if it’s the chain or the motor but it feels like the motor. It’s doing it at low power no matter what speed just off throttle then it smooths out. I might go back to the 12t and keep looking for a larger rear sprocket.