Yamaha YZ450F

[j bjork]

Got some parts from the cutter today, the bottom brackets for the battery turned out to fit perfect
I waited with some parts until I got these mounted, just to make sure it is not a little wrong there, a little more there and then it dosent fit at all..

 

[j bjork]

Prepared for making a mold:

And skip a few steps and we have a mold:

Nice to finally start finishing some stuff :

 

[bananu7]

How much space are you leaving for the spacers to slide in? I know the frame bends a little when compressed, but I'm not sure where to aim; too tight might be hard to put together, too loose might not clamp with enough force...

 

[j bjork]

How much space are you leaving for the spacers to slide in? I know the frame bends a little when compressed, but I'm not sure where to aim; too tight might be hard to put together, too loose might not clamp with enough force...

Im not sure actually, I made them the same widt as the motor between the swing arm. I think there is at least 1mm play but probably not 2mm.
On the front mount I basically made them the widt I could measure would fit, probably a little less play than in the rear.

 

[j bjork]

I made the top for the battery box, but there is a little shape problem:

But I try to re shape it a little before it gets to stiff:

The problem is that the filler I used on the model or plug, shrinks when it hardens, and wood boards bends.

I then compensate with more filler, but I loose the rounding it had from the start to fit on top of the battery box.

I have also worked a little with the bottom brackets:

Made front fasteners:

Started making the battery feet or what to call them:

 

[j bjork]

I am still working on the bike, even if I dont have much to show lately.
I have put a lot of hours in to this:

It will be a one piece cover over the battery, I think I have the design pretty much figured out.

Now I am trying to find a color code, so I can get the right color gelcoat:

It is so damn tricky, and depends on the lightning, what angle I am looking etc.
I did find a color that I think is correct: Yamaha deep purplish blue 564
They could not use it though, they want RAL-kod or ASHLAND/INEOS/NESTE/REICHOLD/NORPOL

Is there anyone here that can translate that code, or know what to use?

 

[j bjork]

Finally I am calling it finished:

More than a few hours so far, and it is just the basic shape that is finished.
Now it is time to start rounding edges and paint

 

[j bjork]

Primer and more sanding..

I think it turned out pretty good.
White was probably not the best choice as I plan to use white gelcoat in the mold.
Maybe I should try mixing in a little black to get grey gelcoat

 

[j bjork]

Continuing the endless work on the model/plug:

I have to make a split mold, as I wont be able to get the part out otherwise.
A problem then is to get a clean split, so I tried to make it without tape on the model.
But I think it isn't tight enough, I will get gelcoat in the slot.

I ended up with clay all around it, not sure if it was a good idea or not..
I have tape in the rear and front, so it probably wouldn't have mattered much if I would have some on the sides too

 

[jkrienert]

That model has some great flowing form. The clay will probably help taper that concave radius and make the part release easier, hopefully.

 

[bananu7]

I'd be concerned about the cardboard stiffness. Your wax (is the blue stuff wax?) line is showing some inconsistent attachment that might be the reason of the cardboard bending out. Maybe you could use use some stiffer plastic sheets or even boards instead?

 

[j bjork]

The cardboard is not a problem, I use that all the time when I want to add a little extra length to a model.
There is a layer of cardboard in the bottom, then those with tape on sits on top of that shaped to fit the sides of the model.
That way the split ends up just over the radius, but I dont think it got tight enough.
Thats why I added the (blue) clay.

The split wont be as clean as I hoped, but hopefully good enough.

 

[j bjork]

Alright, time will tell:

 

[bananu7]

(Thats why I added the (blue) clay.

I use filleting wax for the model edges. I saw it on EC youtube and bought it from them. It fills the gaps like that very nicely, not sure about clay. They also sell a very overpriced ball on a stick to make those fillets even. Not sure how that should be approached for a split mould though, haven't yet thought about making them, so eagerly awating your results from this one.

 

[j bjork]

Broke off the bottom cardboard:

Cleaned up and cut off the extra fiberglass:

Now I have this trench where the clay was:

I would have liked a sharp and clean 90 degree bend, this might be a problem.
It will mostly be gelcoat filling this trench, and there is a risk that pieces of gelcoat will break off when splitting the mold.

Maybe I should look up that filleting wax. I dont think I will do anything more like this for a while, but might be good to be prepared

 

[jkrienert]

Can you reinforce the trench by filling with a cut glass fiber resin mix, using gravity to help level that during cure and ease clean up?
After removing the clay residue with solvent for helping assure mechanical adhesion of whatever ends up filling on the other attached part(s).

 

[j bjork]

If I got that right you mean I should add that to this part of the mold?
Then I end up with resin in a relatively thin line in the mold instead of gelcoat if I understand correctly.
I tested to grind down the edge of the trench instead:

I think it turned out pretty good, I dont think I have to do anything more to it.
This way I dont think anything gets stuck and brakes, and I should be able to get the fiberglass down there I think..

This little bugger turned up today:

It has an alu housing, seems really sturdy (I might need that )
But also a bit heavy. I put it on a scale, and it showed a little under 200g
It seems to be a big plug or something on the back, I am sure tempted to try and take it off..

I also got this bracket for it, with that it is almost 260g.
It would sit pretty well on the handlebars, if I can customize a barpad so it fits

 

[jkrienert]

Your cleanup of that seam looks great, I would probably move past my mentions. I didn't have as clear idea how that all integrated until these new photos.

Also, that alum display looks awesome. Priced reasonable? I wonder what that plug is, its purpose looks like more than just a manufacturing plug.

 

[bananu7]

Plug looks like higo/julet. They seem to be pretty common in ebike harnesses.

 

[j bjork]

Yes, I think the connector is higo.
It comes with 2meter wiring:

I just checked what it has cost me: 1621 sek purchase, then 639 sek taxes in the customs.
So about 2250 sek, and I actually checked that it translates to 210 euro or 227 dollar

So maybe not the most expensive, but far from the cheapest display out there.

 

[j bjork]

Finishing the mold:

The trench was a problem. I thought as it was such a small molding I would have plenty of time to go back and forth pushing the fiberglass down. And I did, but I didnt think it would move back as much as it did every time.
However, I think it ended up alright.
Time to split it:

Damn, it didnt turn out very good.
One option (the best I suppose) would be to just start over and this time fill the trench with something before starting with the fiberglass.
But I will probably use this mold once or maybe twice, so I decided to try and fix it.

I took a knife and gently lifted up the rest of the gelcoat and glued it in place.
It sure isn't perfect, but not too bad I hope.

This was more of an unexpected problem, not sure what happened here.
Possibly the fiberglass lifted here when I tried to push it down the trench.
A smaller problem though, as it is the underside. I will just tape it to get a smooth surface, not a big problem if it isn't perfect.

The top part turned out really good though, in a way that makes the failure on the bottom parts worse
Well, time to move on and start polishing the mold:

 

[Grautuefel]

I am still working on the bike, even if I dont have much to show lately.
I have put a lot of hours in to this:

It will be a one piece cover over the battery, I think I have the design pretty much figured out.

Now I am trying to find a color code, so I can get the right color gelcoat:

It is so damn tricky, and depends on the lightning, what angle I am looking etc.
I did find a color that I think is correct: Yamaha deep purplish blue 564
They could not use it though, they want RAL-kod or ASHLAND/INEOS/NESTE/REICHOLD/NORPOL

Is there anyone here that can translate that code, or know what to use?

You won't find a code for any of those other manufacturers as this is a proprietary colour. Colourite 0564

Yamaha 0564 Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C​

 

[j bjork]

This was a difficult one to make, but I think it turned out rather well in the end:

I bit much polyester in some places though, as I couldn't reach to work it in properly.

I went with black when I couldn't find the right blue.

Rough-cleaned, there will be some more fitting to do.

A little line after the split in the mold, should be possible to sand off.
To the front there is more of a rough area after the defect in the mold, I hope most of that can be sanded off too.

 

[bananu7]

One option (the best I suppose) would be to just start over and this time fill the trench with something before starting with the fiberglass.

I've re-read the last few posts. I think what could help next time is a glass filler: Glass Bubbles (Microspheres) Filler Powder - Easy Composites. It's mixed with resin and spread over before the reinforcement.

In the uni-mould system, you get two weights of mat - 100 and 450g. The lightweight 100g is used with a different resin as a coupling coat to easier conform to tight curves, but I've seen people still use the microbubbles on the tightest spots.

 

[jkrienert]

turned out rather well

For sure it did! Great symmetry, and the larger surface area sides show a great flow without any rumbly bumbly or orange peel. Nice freaking job dude.

I Second the microspheres filler mentioned by @bananu7. Probably superior to the chopped mat I mentioned.

When I worked with microspheres and gelcoat for detailed molds I recall effectiveness (detail vs strength) being somewhat sensitive to the mix ratio.

NOTE: I might be singing to the choir by saying, glass microspheres are very dangerous to health if inhaled, so if used please don't forget a properly fitted and cartridged respirator!