YESCOM USA 48V 1000W hub motor (ebay) slips on second ride

adobian

10 W
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
82
I finished my installation yesterday. Rode out for the first time.

Everything was good. 48V SLA. Fast. I got about 6 miles for 7.2AH.

Pedaling/biking the last 5 miles to where i Wanted to go. Charge up the battery again for 3-4 hours.

When started to go back, the motor slips badly. It made a lot of noise. No torque starting out, slipping badly. I had to pedal first to get it going. A lot of noise. on flat it could run very fast still without pedaling. But it slips very badly starting out from stop.

What is wrong here?

It's only on the second ride.

This really broke my heart. I thought I could get rid of my car.
 
This motor can not 'slip'. It sounds more like you have a hall sensor issue. You don't have any extreme angle on the wires coming out of the motor, or any bad connections? You didn't drop the bike or anything?

Can you record a video of whats going on?
 
Let me check the wiring when I get home today. It's comforting to hear this. I hope it's only wiring.

I also lost my charger on the way home due to this problem. I dropped it somewhere on the street. It took me 3 hours to ride 12 miles home.
 
Sounds like a wiring problem. Check the phase wire bullet connectors. Some times they come loose if you don't get them to snap together just right. One of mine kept coming loose until I realized they need a lot of pressure to *snap* in. I haven't done it , but it would be a good idea to use some shrink tubing on them once you get them together right. That should keep them from ever coming loose.
 
BTW, the controller has lots options that are just not enabled. regen braking, cruise control, speed switching, anti-theft wheel lock, reverse...
 
One of the three bullet connector joints came apart. I now used electrical tape to wrap around all three of them. Phoo. Heart broken for a day or so.

Anyway, wesnell, how do I enable these options on the controller? It looks like a dummy box.

Another question I want to ask you is: How do I change the parameters so that I could run only at 36V?
 
These should cover the options.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=30137&start=15#p438105
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=29426

Changing the LVC is a little more complicated. I think it's covered in this.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7361
 
i use a high quality tire (big apple schwabe or maxxis hookworm) + good thick high quality tube + tuff liners...it's a massive PITA to change a flat on an electric bike when you're out on the road...
 
when my GM rear hub came from ebay i got a flat in the 1st day. Got a new tube installed and went back out. 2nd trip with the hub, another flat! WTF. So this time i brought it to a bike shop. He took the tube out and peeled the tire back. Upon doing so he saw there was no protective tape inside the rim. Every single lace hole in the rim was exposed. They are SHARP! So once you pressure up the tube it pressed around/inside these holes and pops the tube (no matter how thick). He put some tape (i have no idea what kind) around the rim on the inside over the holes. wallah! close to 1,000 miles later and no flats. also, make sure you keep the lace tight. I seem to have about 5 or so get fairly loose every 70 or so miles.
 
adobian said:
Third ride out, got a flat on the rear. They probably use very cheap tube.
Same thing happened to me. I think I mentioned it in my review. They didn't use any rim tape. I bought a roll of fiction tape and ran it around the inside rim. Problem solved. I had 2 flats before I figured out the problem.
 
So, would you purchase this again,orspend more for something better? What kind of batteries are you running it with?
 
Yes. I'd buy it again. I've bought 3 kits from yescomusa so far. And one roll of friction tape for the rims.:) I'm using lipo and I like it.
 
Getting ready to pull the trigger...found a mongoose on craigslist for $15 ...someone i did some work for gave me 6 sla batts...kind of heavy, but i only have a 4 mile one way trip to work.
 
RVD said:
Rim tape is very important. Velox is what I use...
Lately, after purchasing a bike I just take of the tires to see what is there, I use 2-3 turns of electrical tape even over original rubber protector, which tends to slide to side sometimes. :wink:
 
wesnewell said:
Yes. I'd buy it again. I've bought 3 kits from yescomusa so far. And one roll of friction tape for the rims.:) I'm using lipo and I like it.


Howfar can you go with your 5AH battery?
 
parabellum said:
RVD said:
Rim tape is very important. Velox is what I use...
Lately, after purchasing a bike I just take of the tires to see what is there, I use 2-3 turns of electrical tape even over original rubber protector, which tends to slide to side sometimes. :wink:

that rubber band like stuff is terrible. it moves around and causes flats. i just take it off and use real rim tape instead.
 
adobian said:
How far can you go with your 5AH battery?
That all depends on how much I use it, how fast I go, etc., etc., etc. The way I use most of the time, I could get about 50 miles out of it. I recharged after 40 miles the other day and it still had a 23% charge. But on battery alone, at 15mph, I think about 35 miles on flat land. At 30mph about 12 miles. Range goes way down as speed goes up.
 
Do you think with the stock controller, I could use 58V on this? There is an old lithium ion laptop battery with output of 14.5V 6.6MH. I was thinking of 3 of these to make 43.5V but not sure if the circuit will turn on. Maybe 4 of them for output of 58V?
 
adobian said:
Do you think with the stock controller, I could use 58V on this? There is an old lithium ion laptop battery with output of 14.5V 6.6MH. I was thinking of 3 of these to make 43.5V but not sure if the circuit will turn on. Maybe 4 of them for output of 58V?

I do not think that laptop battery has balls to take it, they are usually low discharge rate. You will need few parallel strings to have at least a little fun using it. Here on ES are few users experimenting with laptop batteries but they use insane quantities in parallel to get usable C rate. :)
 
adobian said:
If I parallel in 4 to get 26.4 AH, would I get some usable C?

They will probably be about 0,5-1C safe discharge. If it is what you are looking for, If you have a ton or two of spare time and no allergy to PITA it maybe something for you. I personally would choose some cheep Turnigy packs from Hobby King.
 
adobian said:
Do you think with the stock controller, I could use 58V on this? There is an old lithium ion laptop battery with output of 14.5V 6.6MH. I was thinking of 3 of these to make 43.5V but not sure if the circuit will turn on. Maybe 4 of them for output of 58V?
The controller caps are 63V. the mosfets are 68V, so 58V isn't a problem. I run 58.8V on mine, and I might go to 63V.
 
parabellum said:
adobian said:
If I parallel in 4 to get 26.4 AH, would I get some usable C?

They will probably be about 0,5-1C safe discharge. If it is what you are looking for, If you have a ton or two of spare time and no allergy to PITA it maybe something for you. I personally would choose some cheep Turnigy packs from Hobby King.


How much does Turnigy cost for 58v 26.4 AH
 
Back
Top