methods
1 GW
I should not have posted that....
LETS NOT START THIS DISCUSSION PLEASE
I am taking it down.
-methods
LETS NOT START THIS DISCUSSION PLEASE
I am taking it down.
-methods
Zippy Flightmax / Turnigy lipo testing
- Thread starter johnrobholmes
- Start date
- Status
vanilla ice
1 MW
What discussion?
mwkeefer
1 MW
Guys,
I have also created power connection harnesses for my LiPos...
1.) Discharge harness configures them as 15S first then into 2P
2.) Second discharge harness parallels at the pack level then into series (testing just to see if I get better performance this way)
3.) Charging harness which runs each of the 4x6S into parallel + configures the 2x remaining 3S packs per side into one series 6S and then I charge them all at 10A into 25AH (5x6S) using this harness (with matching balance harness attached to the power lead harness).
Before doing this I burnt up a few of the PCB links and picked up Kentucky Fried Finger more times than I care to admit (I actually welded my WES50 Iron twice with accidental shorts before I got smart about it)... they are fairly easy to fix but... a word of caution, I use nickle strips across them designed to fuse out at 100A (the max C I would even think of pulling from a single 5AH pack. This should cause a similar action on dead short and cause the thin strip to vaporize before blowing the battery.
And yep thats why they use silicone tape and that sticky almost scotch tape... they trap any solder particles and ensure a high temp insulation on the end in case of such a fuse blow (on the PCB).
Now with my harness... it takes me 1 minute to configure for charge or discharge, I can effectively charge on the train in 6S5P configuration and if I begin at the stop before mine replacing the parallel with the series discharge harness... I haven't missed my stop yet so.... it works well enough, I would prefer (and am working on) the bulk charger option but alas my samples for 12S and 15S designs haven't gotten here yet ((China)) and so.... I am holding out on a Meanwell with 62-63v between 10 and 20 amps until after I get the charger samples to evaluate... they would be much lower cost than a Meanwell.
With regards to the BM6 units... I have far too many now and most work quite fine but.... I do have 3 (I will ship em your way if you like) which are +- 250mv no BS. I couldn't believe it either but I decided to be smart and DVM check them all on my fluke and yep these are off... these were also the ones I had been having an issue with of false alarm on connection (they swore a cell was higher than 4.2v but... fluke and iCharger said 4.182 which is higher than my normal charge point of 4.172 and so I decided to double check as it was the first time I had a beeping on them that wasn't lVC related (at 3.4v - between 3.4 and 3.3 seems useable but after that it's like the cross over curve of an 18db dual parametric cross over, STEEP!) I thought one of the cells was low perhaps but watched the screen and saw the 4.29v (somthing close to that) so I checked it with the Fluke and it was fine at 4.182 actual... so that's a pretty big offset. I don't think I've had this issue with the LVC side of the circuit.
My new pack (ordered now) will be 18S2P made of 4x 6s and 4x 3s packs. These I will charge in 9S4P config @ 10A rate for what I hope to be near a 2 hour max charge to 74.7v total on an iCharger 1010B+ using the A30 supply from HobbyKing.
-Mike
I have also created power connection harnesses for my LiPos...
1.) Discharge harness configures them as 15S first then into 2P
2.) Second discharge harness parallels at the pack level then into series (testing just to see if I get better performance this way)
3.) Charging harness which runs each of the 4x6S into parallel + configures the 2x remaining 3S packs per side into one series 6S and then I charge them all at 10A into 25AH (5x6S) using this harness (with matching balance harness attached to the power lead harness).
Before doing this I burnt up a few of the PCB links and picked up Kentucky Fried Finger more times than I care to admit (I actually welded my WES50 Iron twice with accidental shorts before I got smart about it)... they are fairly easy to fix but... a word of caution, I use nickle strips across them designed to fuse out at 100A (the max C I would even think of pulling from a single 5AH pack. This should cause a similar action on dead short and cause the thin strip to vaporize before blowing the battery.
And yep thats why they use silicone tape and that sticky almost scotch tape... they trap any solder particles and ensure a high temp insulation on the end in case of such a fuse blow (on the PCB).
Now with my harness... it takes me 1 minute to configure for charge or discharge, I can effectively charge on the train in 6S5P configuration and if I begin at the stop before mine replacing the parallel with the series discharge harness... I haven't missed my stop yet so.... it works well enough, I would prefer (and am working on) the bulk charger option but alas my samples for 12S and 15S designs haven't gotten here yet ((China)) and so.... I am holding out on a Meanwell with 62-63v between 10 and 20 amps until after I get the charger samples to evaluate... they would be much lower cost than a Meanwell.
With regards to the BM6 units... I have far too many now and most work quite fine but.... I do have 3 (I will ship em your way if you like) which are +- 250mv no BS. I couldn't believe it either but I decided to be smart and DVM check them all on my fluke and yep these are off... these were also the ones I had been having an issue with of false alarm on connection (they swore a cell was higher than 4.2v but... fluke and iCharger said 4.182 which is higher than my normal charge point of 4.172 and so I decided to double check as it was the first time I had a beeping on them that wasn't lVC related (at 3.4v - between 3.4 and 3.3 seems useable but after that it's like the cross over curve of an 18db dual parametric cross over, STEEP!) I thought one of the cells was low perhaps but watched the screen and saw the 4.29v (somthing close to that) so I checked it with the Fluke and it was fine at 4.182 actual... so that's a pretty big offset. I don't think I've had this issue with the LVC side of the circuit.
My new pack (ordered now) will be 18S2P made of 4x 6s and 4x 3s packs. These I will charge in 9S4P config @ 10A rate for what I hope to be near a 2 hour max charge to 74.7v total on an iCharger 1010B+ using the A30 supply from HobbyKing.
-Mike
GGoodrum
1 MW
Mike, I think you will find that you won't see much difference between putting the sub-packs in series first, and then parallel the series strings, until you get farther into the discharge of the pack. If you have a weak cell, it will pull its string's voltage down more than if it is paralleled with a healthy cell.
I always parallel, first, and the put the parallel blocks in series. It also helps keep the cells in better balance, as the differences are averaged out a bit more. The only issue is you have to make sure your LVC scheme is able to catch any block of cells that are being overdischarged, because it will wipe out the other cells in the parallel block. I religiously use LVC circuits for every block, on every pack. You just never know.
I'm also reconfiguring my 12 6s-5000 packs. I will use 9 in an 18s3p configuration that I will use on a 20" folding bike with a 9C 9x7 and one of Methy's 100A/100V 18-FET controllers. I plan to use the same pack with a second 6s3p pack, for a total of 24s3p, on my Townie cruiser, which has a 5304 and another 18-FET controller. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to charge these, but I'll probably end up with a couple of power supplies, one set for about 74.5-75V, for the 18s3p pack, and another with the voltage set to 24.5V, for the 6s3p pack. In the meantime, I will just use the four Balance ProHD 6s/10a balance chargers I got some time ago from FMA Direct. I made some series-parallel bullet plug adapters today, that connects three packs in parallel, and then in series with the next block. I also tapped off each of these with a 12-gauge wire with an Anderson's on the other end. I then end up with a four-Anderson block that I am going to use as a charge plug for the 18s3p pack. This is mainly for use with the 6s chargers. Once I get a suitable 75V supply, I won't need the taps, but for now, I need them.
My LVC boards have three 7-pin balancer connectors, per 6-channel section, that are used to plug in each of the balancer plugs from each pack in parallel. There's one 7-pin output pigtail, per section, that I will use with the balancers.
I really struggled with how to do these two configurations. For the folding bike, I really only wanted an 18s2p setup, but in the end, I just decided to go ahead with 18s3p, mainly so I don't have to unplug and plug a bunch of connections, to switch configurations, and/or charge the packs.
-- Gary
I always parallel, first, and the put the parallel blocks in series. It also helps keep the cells in better balance, as the differences are averaged out a bit more. The only issue is you have to make sure your LVC scheme is able to catch any block of cells that are being overdischarged, because it will wipe out the other cells in the parallel block. I religiously use LVC circuits for every block, on every pack. You just never know.
I'm also reconfiguring my 12 6s-5000 packs. I will use 9 in an 18s3p configuration that I will use on a 20" folding bike with a 9C 9x7 and one of Methy's 100A/100V 18-FET controllers. I plan to use the same pack with a second 6s3p pack, for a total of 24s3p, on my Townie cruiser, which has a 5304 and another 18-FET controller. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to charge these, but I'll probably end up with a couple of power supplies, one set for about 74.5-75V, for the 18s3p pack, and another with the voltage set to 24.5V, for the 6s3p pack. In the meantime, I will just use the four Balance ProHD 6s/10a balance chargers I got some time ago from FMA Direct. I made some series-parallel bullet plug adapters today, that connects three packs in parallel, and then in series with the next block. I also tapped off each of these with a 12-gauge wire with an Anderson's on the other end. I then end up with a four-Anderson block that I am going to use as a charge plug for the 18s3p pack. This is mainly for use with the 6s chargers. Once I get a suitable 75V supply, I won't need the taps, but for now, I need them.
My LVC boards have three 7-pin balancer connectors, per 6-channel section, that are used to plug in each of the balancer plugs from each pack in parallel. There's one 7-pin output pigtail, per section, that I will use with the balancers.
I really struggled with how to do these two configurations. For the folding bike, I really only wanted an 18s2p setup, but in the end, I just decided to go ahead with 18s3p, mainly so I don't have to unplug and plug a bunch of connections, to switch configurations, and/or charge the packs.
-- Gary
mwkeefer
1 MW
methods said:Hyena said:
I have a hard fast rule that everybody here should listen to....
When your resting voltage is equal to or less than your rated voltage you are close to the end!
I never continue riding "out" past that point...
When my 24S pack hits 88V -> that's it buddy, I pack it up and ride home at 1/4th throttle.
LVC is at 72V but no way in hell do I get close to that.
And as far as the comment about the BM6's -> I disagree. I have never seen a BM6 anywhere near being off by 250mV. Ever. You must be thinking of a different brand of battery monitor, otherwise I will need to see proof
-methods
Edited - hand changes of the BM6 removed for sake of time / tidyness of video:
http://www.designsforbusiness.com/ebikes/videos/BM6-CalibrationIssues/Edited_IMG_0047_BM6_OutOfCalibration_Proof.avi
Here you go... this is edited for all my swapping the BM6 units (4 tested and demonstrated on the same 6S pack with nothing connected to it... btw, the fluke and the iCharger show all cells between 4.179 and 4.185 there are .002mv differences between the Fluke and iCharger but that is not of concern... you can see as these 4 BM6 cycle through their various readings they are widly off. You will also hear the HVC beep cut in... look it thinks some of my cells are 4.22+?
I couldn't believe this either so I have no problem with your request for proof... I should have just posted this in the first place since I had it but I wanted to get the crappy changing shots out of there... this gave me a chance to use AvideMux to remove my hands.
-Mike
mwkeefer
1 MW
GGoodrum,
Thanks for the insight... I figured Id get better balance/charge/discharge paralleling the packs first then in series but I still monitor each cell for LVC and make it a bit more sensitive to catch a cell in a parallel pack going bad. By paralleling at the pack level I expect some of the parallel advantages while still retaining the cell isolation I desire to create a truly save LVC monitor to prevent fire, reversal or just multiple parallel cell death as you indicate in your post.
With regards to your planned 20" folder... just a note of caution, I tried (currently have actually) a 9FS from downtube with the 9c rear but since it requires 135mm of clearance it left me with just about 1" of clearance from the inside of the hub face (below the thread on for the freewheel) and the inner dropout washer (at the end of the 10mm keyway). Lord knows your smart and already see the issue here... 1" gives you about enough space for a single speed freewheel or as I have done (just for the 9c rear) have a custom freewheel which follows the 9speed sprocket spacing and build a custom 1" wide 3-4 speed rear cassette.
You may be better going with the 5304 as I have seen that YPedal (I think) managed to lace this one up to a 20" and still cram a 9sp threaded freewheel onto it... I assume there is more clearance with the 5304 allowing the install without much if any 2x4 action on the dropout.
18fet on a 20" - sik man, is that overkill?
So far as the power is concerned... dude, overkill is always better... you should have an amazing cruising range on that ride and at 18s you should be able to get top speeds of approx 30-35 with a 9x7 (I am getting 24 now on the flats @ 15S (hot = 62.4v) but limited to 22a still with no advance dialed into the infineon (it's stock still... always test at stock settings first personally, just for a good baseline). I tell you though I am only running a single 5AH pack of 15S at a time on that right now (mounted in a bag below the front maintube) to counter balance the wheelie action while still keeping the weight down and maintaining the foldability...
I will be posting video and pics of the build out tommorow... including the clearance issues I found.
I really want to do an RC drive on this now so I can maintain the weight but also get the 9 speed gearing (or replace with 8speed internal hub for a straight drive line)... I think I want to do a cyclone style crank drive but using the RC motor style gearbox. That would be 10lbs total weight addition to the folder keeping it about 31 lbs (or the naked weight of a good specialized aluminum frame bike) but with a much better balance and weight distribution and far better gearing range than I could get otherwise (even from a geared hub motor).
-Mike
Thanks for the insight... I figured Id get better balance/charge/discharge paralleling the packs first then in series but I still monitor each cell for LVC and make it a bit more sensitive to catch a cell in a parallel pack going bad. By paralleling at the pack level I expect some of the parallel advantages while still retaining the cell isolation I desire to create a truly save LVC monitor to prevent fire, reversal or just multiple parallel cell death as you indicate in your post.
With regards to your planned 20" folder... just a note of caution, I tried (currently have actually) a 9FS from downtube with the 9c rear but since it requires 135mm of clearance it left me with just about 1" of clearance from the inside of the hub face (below the thread on for the freewheel) and the inner dropout washer (at the end of the 10mm keyway). Lord knows your smart and already see the issue here... 1" gives you about enough space for a single speed freewheel or as I have done (just for the 9c rear) have a custom freewheel which follows the 9speed sprocket spacing and build a custom 1" wide 3-4 speed rear cassette.
You may be better going with the 5304 as I have seen that YPedal (I think) managed to lace this one up to a 20" and still cram a 9sp threaded freewheel onto it... I assume there is more clearance with the 5304 allowing the install without much if any 2x4 action on the dropout.
18fet on a 20" - sik man, is that overkill?
So far as the power is concerned... dude, overkill is always better... you should have an amazing cruising range on that ride and at 18s you should be able to get top speeds of approx 30-35 with a 9x7 (I am getting 24 now on the flats @ 15S (hot = 62.4v) but limited to 22a still with no advance dialed into the infineon (it's stock still... always test at stock settings first personally, just for a good baseline). I tell you though I am only running a single 5AH pack of 15S at a time on that right now (mounted in a bag below the front maintube) to counter balance the wheelie action while still keeping the weight down and maintaining the foldability...
I will be posting video and pics of the build out tommorow... including the clearance issues I found.
I really want to do an RC drive on this now so I can maintain the weight but also get the 9 speed gearing (or replace with 8speed internal hub for a straight drive line)... I think I want to do a cyclone style crank drive but using the RC motor style gearbox. That would be 10lbs total weight addition to the folder keeping it about 31 lbs (or the naked weight of a good specialized aluminum frame bike) but with a much better balance and weight distribution and far better gearing range than I could get otherwise (even from a geared hub motor).
-Mike
will_newton
1 kW
I definitely need to make a more permanent harness for my pack, rather than letting all my single Anderson plugs. I have them all separate so i can switch for charging/discharging. Well, yesterday I configured for 11s2p and plugged in and rode for a mile to my destination. I arrived and noticed my two 6s 5000mah lipos were getting hot! I looked at what i had wired up- oh shit! It was wrong!!!!!!
Instead of hooking up my 5s+6s to make an 11s and then paralleling the 11s packs up for 10ah I wired up 6s+6s and 5s+5s and paralleled them to get my 10ah pack
that means my 6s packs were trying to charge my fully charged 5s packs!!!!!!!! my 5s battery pack were now charged to 4.45 v/cell
luckily i got it worked out quickly and no major harm done, my 6s cells were a bit out of whack,but have been rebalanced and seem to be OK. I discharged the 5s cells to 4.1 and rebalanced the packs and they seem OK.
That was a dumb mistake and one that could get you into some serious visits from the fire dept.
I am going to make permanent "blocks" of connectors today or tomorrow and I'll post some pics.
Instead of hooking up my 5s+6s to make an 11s and then paralleling the 11s packs up for 10ah I wired up 6s+6s and 5s+5s and paralleled them to get my 10ah pack
that means my 6s packs were trying to charge my fully charged 5s packs!!!!!!!! my 5s battery pack were now charged to 4.45 v/cell
luckily i got it worked out quickly and no major harm done, my 6s cells were a bit out of whack,but have been rebalanced and seem to be OK. I discharged the 5s cells to 4.1 and rebalanced the packs and they seem OK.
That was a dumb mistake and one that could get you into some serious visits from the fire dept.
I am going to make permanent "blocks" of connectors today or tomorrow and I'll post some pics.
GGoodrum
1 MW
Like I said before, if you are switching packs around, for charging and discharging, it is not IF you will have an incident, only WHEN.
The other problem I have with these switching setups is that you really aren't doing parallel first, and then series, if you don't also parallel the balance plugs. Switching those around will most certainly get you in trouble, much sooner than later. Just this morning I was hooking up two 6-channel LVC sections to the first two 6s3p sub-packs in my new 18s3p pack, and I then managed to get the order for the main connections for the two 6s3p sections reversed. It was only for a second, but it fried two TC54 chips, the last one in the first 6-channel section, and the first one in the 2nd section.
I really think you guys should bite the bullet, and get a charger/supply setup that doesn't require you to swap plugs around.
-- Gary
The other problem I have with these switching setups is that you really aren't doing parallel first, and then series, if you don't also parallel the balance plugs. Switching those around will most certainly get you in trouble, much sooner than later. Just this morning I was hooking up two 6-channel LVC sections to the first two 6s3p sub-packs in my new 18s3p pack, and I then managed to get the order for the main connections for the two 6s3p sections reversed. It was only for a second, but it fried two TC54 chips, the last one in the first 6-channel section, and the first one in the 2nd section.
I really think you guys should bite the bullet, and get a charger/supply setup that doesn't require you to swap plugs around.
-- Gary
mwkeefer
1 MW
Gary,
You are right... we are working towards (my company) a workable dumb charger for 12s and 15s (actually waiting on samples) for 10A charging. Seems like Meanwell are good units, methods has great success with them... Hyena not so great on these same packs.
I managed to fry 3S balance tap #2 on my iCharger break out board today while trying to parallel up 2x6S with 4x3S (as another 2x6S) and my son was talking to me.
Really it takes no more than a moment of distraction (even with labels as I have and color coding on the leads) to f it all up. I can fix the iCharger balance adapter ... many people couldn't.
I think the best thing to be said because I know until I have these new chargers in I will be doing this breakdown charge in parallel (balance in parallel), dont be in a rush... take your time, double and triple check before connecting any wire and finally tell everyone to bugger off (or if you have a 3 year old like me, snack, milk - put on noggin before attending to the batteries).
-Mike
You are right... we are working towards (my company) a workable dumb charger for 12s and 15s (actually waiting on samples) for 10A charging. Seems like Meanwell are good units, methods has great success with them... Hyena not so great on these same packs.
I managed to fry 3S balance tap #2 on my iCharger break out board today while trying to parallel up 2x6S with 4x3S (as another 2x6S) and my son was talking to me.
Really it takes no more than a moment of distraction (even with labels as I have and color coding on the leads) to f it all up. I can fix the iCharger balance adapter ... many people couldn't.
I think the best thing to be said because I know until I have these new chargers in I will be doing this breakdown charge in parallel (balance in parallel), dont be in a rush... take your time, double and triple check before connecting any wire and finally tell everyone to bugger off (or if you have a 3 year old like me, snack, milk - put on noggin before attending to the batteries).
-Mike
johnrobholmes
10 MW
I thought I was the only one that used the term dumb charger. Hehehe....
I agree on the harness switching. It isn't a good way to do things. Even with a power block that simplifies things there can be errors with the balance taps.
I agree on the harness switching. It isn't a good way to do things. Even with a power block that simplifies things there can be errors with the balance taps.
methods
1 GW
I love how everybody needs to learn for themselves that switching around harnesses always leads to disaster
Gary brought up a very important point:
* If you are not paralleling up the balance taps then your batteries are not parallel at the cell level
* If you are paralleling up the balance taps then it is certain that you will at some point screw the pooch and switch the main lines to series while the taps are still in parallel
If you are lucky when this screwup happens you will just vaporize your main power connectors
If you are unlucky you will melt the insulation off over every single one of your balance taps, they will all short together, and your pack will melt down.
Wire your packs in series, parallel to the cell level, and leave them that way
Wire your power supplies in series to match your HVC voltage
Charge the entire pack at the full series voltage - do not reconfigure.
Use some version of a 24 channel BMS
One of these days one of you guys is going to post a sad story....
-methods
Gary brought up a very important point:
* If you are not paralleling up the balance taps then your batteries are not parallel at the cell level
* If you are paralleling up the balance taps then it is certain that you will at some point screw the pooch and switch the main lines to series while the taps are still in parallel
If you are lucky when this screwup happens you will just vaporize your main power connectors
If you are unlucky you will melt the insulation off over every single one of your balance taps, they will all short together, and your pack will melt down.
Wire your packs in series, parallel to the cell level, and leave them that way
Wire your power supplies in series to match your HVC voltage
Charge the entire pack at the full series voltage - do not reconfigure.
Use some version of a 24 channel BMS
One of these days one of you guys is going to post a sad story....
-methods
liveforphysics
100 TW
methods said:
Been there... twice... I was fortunate that the highest resistance place was at the balance connector, which it vaporized, and I was able to simply solder another one on in it's place. Twice... lol
mwkeefer
1 MW
Ha,
I finally beat you at somthing live4.... I've smoked nearly a dozen balance connectors, they are natures little idiot proofing = )
Thank god for ohms law (and the lack of a vacume we live in, think what would happen in a vacume?)
Mike
I finally beat you at somthing live4.... I've smoked nearly a dozen balance connectors, they are natures little idiot proofing = )
Thank god for ohms law (and the lack of a vacume we live in, think what would happen in a vacume?)
Mike
johnrobholmes
10 MW
I parallel together at the cell level, but I hard wire the entire thing so there is no screw up. Two 5ah 6s turnigy packs become one 10ah 6s pack. Then I just series them for the needed voltage.
will_newton
1 kW
After reading the posts following my last one, I thought of this quote-(which I can't source the author or the exact quote)
In the end, a little mistake like that teaches a good lesson. It won't easily happen again.
As it is, I ended up being short a set of Andersons to build my plug harness, so had to order more. I decided to wire my batteries as a 5s 20ah pack and a 6s 20ah pack. It will eliminate all need for switching packs around for discharge and charging other than plugging into a series connection on the bike. I have a Hyperion Duo 3 which will charge the 2 separate packs at the same time as a single unit in sync mode. This was my original plan all along, but I had wanted to get some individual cycles on the batteries first to make sure I didn't have issues with the packs themselves.
I am not sure if this has been pointed out, but my Turnigy packs have larger gauge (10 gauge) wiring than the Flightmax/Zippy packs (12 gauge) and the Turnigy balance harness is made from wiring that has a more flexible covering. The Turnigy balance and discharge wires also exit the same side of the pack, which I like better for stacking packs together. The Turnigy packs are also cheaper and have a higher discharge rate.
:lol:
In the end, a little mistake like that teaches a good lesson. It won't easily happen again.
As it is, I ended up being short a set of Andersons to build my plug harness, so had to order more. I decided to wire my batteries as a 5s 20ah pack and a 6s 20ah pack. It will eliminate all need for switching packs around for discharge and charging other than plugging into a series connection on the bike. I have a Hyperion Duo 3 which will charge the 2 separate packs at the same time as a single unit in sync mode. This was my original plan all along, but I had wanted to get some individual cycles on the batteries first to make sure I didn't have issues with the packs themselves.
I am not sure if this has been pointed out, but my Turnigy packs have larger gauge (10 gauge) wiring than the Flightmax/Zippy packs (12 gauge) and the Turnigy balance harness is made from wiring that has a more flexible covering. The Turnigy balance and discharge wires also exit the same side of the pack, which I like better for stacking packs together. The Turnigy packs are also cheaper and have a higher discharge rate.
methods
1 GW
will_newton said:
I have always disagreed with that quote (and its variants)
I have known a lot of guys that keep their mouth shut... Nobody thinks they are fools.... but guess what?
They dont know anymore today than they knew 5 years ago :wink:
I have opened my mouth and been though a fool a thousand times in the last 5 years
For everyone of those times I learned something and became less of a fool
A quote I think is much better is: "There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers".
-methods
Ypedal
100 TW
I can personally confirm that there are indeed such things as stupid questions !!! ( 14 year tech support agent ! )
methods
1 GW
Can you help me with my compuder?
I tried to go to webpage but only see white screen.
How become it doesnt work?
I tiped the address like this:
WWW. endless - sphere . com
Do I have to have the internet cord plugged in?
I went to my moms house and plugged her phone cord in my computer
How come the internet from my house does not work at hers? Its the same computer, shouldnt the phone company know?
Oh yea - and how come my cordless phone does not work in the car?
-methods
I tried to go to webpage but only see white screen.
How become it doesnt work?
I tiped the address like this:
WWW. endless - sphere . com
Do I have to have the internet cord plugged in?
I went to my moms house and plugged her phone cord in my computer
How come the internet from my house does not work at hers? Its the same computer, shouldnt the phone company know?
Oh yea - and how come my cordless phone does not work in the car?
-methods
John in CR
100 TW
Yes, there are definitely stupid questions, as well as stupid answers, but if the dumbasses of the world would just all be silent, the world would be a much better place.
my $.02 on the matter.
John
my $.02 on the matter.
John
will_newton
1 kW
yes, i agree, that's why I posted my screw-up rather than sit on it.
methods said:
will_newton
1 kW
I got my connectors from www.powerwerx.com and the glorious Tricrimp connector! It does the trick, but you do have to get a few pratice connectors done to get the feel. I made up parallel pack connectors and hooked them up. After an hour I checked the packs using the BM6 monitor (that thing is the bomb!) and the cells are all within .005 volts. I even got some pics of the connector orgy and I will put them up when I have the balance connector harness done and get a pic of the finished packs. I am also going to Radio Shack to find a pre-charging resistor to integrate into the harness.
will_newton
1 kW
I just got back from a test ride with the 11S 20ah lipo. It's nice. I rode with a BM6 monitor on each pack balance lead. I opened my battery bag and felt a slight warmth, it was the BM6's radiating the heat, the batteries were cool as a cucumber and showing a balance within .004 volts. I think I'm in love! I'm going to keep the riding sweet and simple for a few charges to make sure things are good to go and then take it out for a longer cruise to get an idea of the range.
The CA says I pulled about 66 amps max, which gives me about a 3C discharge (max for a few seconds during a start) regular cruising is done at under 20 amps for less than a 1C continous draw. if nothing shakes loose, the peak charging, and depth of discharging is kept under control, these should last for a while
Too bad radio shack had no resistors for my precharge lead, so i didn't make that, but left room in the series lead to put it in.
The CA says I pulled about 66 amps max, which gives me about a 3C discharge (max for a few seconds during a start) regular cruising is done at under 20 amps for less than a 1C continous draw. if nothing shakes loose, the peak charging, and depth of discharging is kept under control, these should last for a while
Too bad radio shack had no resistors for my precharge lead, so i didn't make that, but left room in the series lead to put it in.
will_newton
1 kW
These are the packs attached to their Anderson parallel leads- this is why I love the Tricrimper
I think that airport security would ask me some questions about this one. Balance leads are done and have the BM6 monitors attached
I added a soft foam as a base and a stiffer, but yielding foam as a surround. The dark foam is cutout so that there is no wire rubbins. The lid of the soft case is also padded and hugs the top of the batteries nicely.
rollin' 20's ---amp hours that is.....
I think that airport security would ask me some questions about this one. Balance leads are done and have the BM6 monitors attached
I added a soft foam as a base and a stiffer, but yielding foam as a surround. The dark foam is cutout so that there is no wire rubbins. The lid of the soft case is also padded and hugs the top of the batteries nicely.
rollin' 20's ---amp hours that is.....
Russell
1 MW
What method did you use to parallel the balance leads?
-R
-R
TPA
10 kW
Yea, me too...Russell said:
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