Zippy Flightmax / Turnigy lipo testing

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mwkeefer theres an Australian agent for Meanwell PSU not more than 10 minutes from me
hella cheaper than JayCar etc...here's the link perhaps check them out also ?

http://www.computronics.com.au/meanwell/

KiM
 
GCinDC said:
what's his web site address?
hi
I never deal with him through his web site I only contact him on skype and email, mosly skype. the wires are not on his ebay web site yet anyway best to contact him by email.
his Email address is ecrazyman@qmail.com this should get to him.

Geoff
 
I'm curious Mike, were these "meanwell" PSUs advertised as meanwell but the ones you were delivered some other brand ? Or did they have a meanwell sticker on them but you knew they otherwise weren't ?

Also to what extent did you find them to be not CC stable ? Did you connect an ammeter and find the current to be varying ?
I have a cheap chinese one from ebay that I've posted about previously. It wasn't advertised as a meanwell but looked identical. It does seem to have stable CC charging, at least as far as the needle on the ammeter being rock solid on its max amps until the charge is nearly complete.

As for the voltage range, my genuine meanwell goes down to 20v out of the box, but its only a 150w
In my brief experience in fiddling with the resistors it seems to only affect the lower end of the range. 1 ohm will give you the maximum voltage (say 28-30v for a 24v supply) but you can lower the voltage by increasing the resistance beyond the original 1k pot limit.


I guess you need to find out which specific components are determining the 'rough' output voltage. If its not something major like replacing coils or transformers and it's just a resistor or 2 it might be something that's worthwhile doing. If you're looking to buy 100 + powersupplys they may do you a batch at a custom voltage. They have a few odd voltages already like 27v so they may make a 40v one or what ever you're after.
 
Hyena said:
I'm curious Mike, were these "meanwell" PSUs advertised as meanwell but the ones you were delivered some other brand ? Or did they have a meanwell sticker on them but you knew they otherwise weren't ?

They were mean well on the site, with pics of mean wells but when i got the samples in they were knock off no-name brands. The thing is, I see everyone using these and not a single complaint about instable chararistics ... these knock offs were of low quality and were very far off out of the box from spec as I posted.

Hyena said:
Also to what extent did you find them to be not CC stable ? Did you connect an ammeter and find the current to be varying ?
I have a cheap chinese one from ebay that I've posted about previously. It wasn't advertised as a meanwell but looked identical. It does seem to have stable CC charging, at least as far as the needle on the ammeter being rock solid on its max amps until the charge is nearly complete.

The output current was all over the place durring the CC stage and I don't mean a normal and healthy 20% deviation (no methods not you) but 60-80% swing on 2 units in CC mode and the third has a stable output in CC mode but was so far off spec for voltage that I wouldn't hook my packs up to it without burn in testing... actually, I just ordered the meanwell because I won't connect my packs to these supplies (not my good packs).
My measurements were made using a combination of sensing devices - I have an eagletree eLogger v3 on the bench I used for testing these but I also then connected my own data logger which monitors current via a simple shunt (simliar to the infineon) and then I compare these 2 logs... once I calibrated my home grown logger - identical (+-5%) to each other.

Hyena said:
As for the voltage range, my genuine meanwell goes down to 20v out of the box, but its only a 150w
In my brief experience in fiddling with the resistors it seems to only affect the lower end of the range. 1 ohm will give you the maximum voltage (say 28-30v for a 24v supply) but you can lower the voltage by increasing the resistance beyond the original 1k pot limit.

I guess you need to find out which specific components are determining the 'rough' output voltage. If its not something major like replacing coils or transformers and it's just a resistor or 2 it might be something that's worthwhile doing. If you're looking to buy 100 + powersupplys they may do you a batch at a custom voltage. They have a few odd voltages already like 27v so they may make a 40v one or what ever you're after.

Thanks! That is the type of info I was looking for... So it may be possible to use 2x24v supplies to deliver say 62v @ 10A - this could get interesting since they have a nice 48v supply available already... if it can be extended top end... it would make a nice 2hr charger for 15S pack. I know it will be possible to link the 36 and a 24, current will be that of the lower current supply so 9.7A but that is fine for a 15S10AH pack and the cost is right at 62.00 Sure I can also do the 3x24v at home and charge the pack at 15A rate for just under an hour charge time (sweet).

I will play with increasing the voltage output of the 48v supply when it gets here... to see what the maximum can be with simple modifications and how stable the voltage is + how efficient the supply is operating at these "wider" ranges of voltage.

Thanks again for the feedback (everyone).

-Mike
 
Mike have you looked at the ecity / bms battery chargers ?

If you're getting the power supplies cheap enough then well and good but if you're having to fiddle around running a few together and then have the added bulk, a neat self contained alloy off the shelf unit from them might be a better option.
The have a 400w one for $53 that they can set to the specific voltage you need.
http://www.bmsbattery.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_18&products_id=36

If you're looking at selling these commercially as ebike chargers (I assume that given buying 100 of them is excessive, even for people like methods and liveforphysics :lol: ) it may be a better and safer option.

edit: I should add that I haven't got one of these, they just seem like a reasonable option.
There's a thread discussing the chargers and other stuff they sell here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9054
 
The four MeanWell S-350-24 supplies I have all have an adjustment range from about 18.5V to up over 27V, right out-of-the-box.

One thing I've found is that very few of these type of supplies have a true CC-type of current limiting. Most have a simple "hiccup"-type of overload protection. I think these basically just cut the power if it gets too hot, and then resets itself when the load drops off and the temp goes down. Even within the various MeanWell product lines, a true CC mode is the exception, not the rule.

-- Gary
 
hi
Gary my LVC boards have crossed the pond now, very nice thankyou for coming up with that. I bought 2 24way all in charge/LVC boards from you a while back for use with A123 cells, I never did populate them and have now sold the A123 cells in favor of turnigys,can those boards be used as chargers for the turnigys with slightly diffrent components, I would be looking at matching them with the same type of transformer as you got the s-350 24v linked to make the voltage needed I would make one up as a 20s board and the other as a 15s board.

Geoff
 
I bought them at http://nqrc.com/?page=products&catagory=connectors

nice prices!! i bought the 6S ,5S and 4S for my Lipo Setup

Just a question: i have 6 packs of 18.5 and 6 packs of 14.8
Each packs i paralelled the balance cables. So i finally have two complete packs with all the ballance cables in parallel

IMG_0012.jpg


now i want to connect these 2 packs in serie...and then the 'big bang' with one T-connector occured.

I think i have to put those total output wires also first in parralel and then put them in series.
otherwise you have a potential difference between the pos.and neg. wire (cause of the balance wires)

I will update this progress or you can see it in my other post.
 
You guys hear that - ?

Another big bang.

I am telling you.... People are getting lucky with their "Big Bangs". One of these days one of these guys is going to slam the connectors together and someone is going to get hurt. If someone actually manages to push the connectors together before they vaporize there is going to be a 1,000A running. The wires will be red hot in moments and 1 of two things is going to happen:

1) Someone is going to have the lipo fire to end all lipo fires in their house

2) Someone is going to get 4th degree burns on their hand from grabbing a red hot wire, then their house is going to burn down.

Anyone who knows me knows that I AM NOT A CAPTAIN SAFETY
I am reckless and deviant.... so when I say BE CAREFUL you had better listen. :?

Careful guys... This shit is serious. These batterpacks are time bombs. If a square foot of Lipo goes off you dont want to be around.

Build once - charge in series - use Garys LVC, Balancers, and charge cutoff boards.
Dont be "that guy" :D

-methods
 
Hehe...

Hell.. i almost did myself in 2 days ago.. with PSI cells !

had an 8 pack ( 24v ) built by Cyclone taiwan with shipping tape , I was taking it apart to re-build it with lego blocks, as i VERY CAREFULLY started to cut the tape, the cells started to loosen up, no problem, then i get into cell no.3 and remove it, 2 of the big thick copper bus bars crossed and i heard a hissss....... :shock:

I went to grab them to split the bars but logic kicked in and i went for the nearest " tool " .. split the bars, tapped the cells to see how hot they were ( thank god it only shorted for a millisecond ) the pack was about 40 celcius.. picked it up and high-horsed it to the side door.... finished dis-assembly in the driveway !! :wink:

No damage, cells are so far all good... :|

If this was Lipo.. well.. ya know.. play safe guys !
 
geoff57 said:
hi
Gary my LVC boards have crossed the pond now, very nice thankyou for coming up with that. I bought 2 24way all in charge/LVC boards from you a while back for use with A123 cells, I never did populate them and have now sold the A123 cells in favor of turnigys,can those boards be used as chargers for the turnigys with slightly diffrent components, I would be looking at matching them with the same type of transformer as you got the s-350 24v linked to make the voltage needed I would make one up as a 20s board and the other as a 15s board.

Geoff

The quick answer is yes, you probably can make use of those boards, with a couple of part changes. Which version of BMS boards are these? You don't need to include the LVC portion of the circuits, but you'd still need to use one dual opto ILD2 per channel, because the LVC portion used one half, and the throttling logic used the other. If you include the throttling, you'd still need one half. You could also just leave the throttling off completely, and set the shunt point a bit lower, like I do with the balancers. As long as your cells are reasonably healthy, they will stay close enough that you shouldn't ever have a case where one cell (or block of paralleled cells...) gets over 4.2V if you have the shunts set at 4.15V. You can do this with the boards you have by changing out one resistor per channel. If you bought the BMS boards awhile ago, you probably have 75k and 180k for the divider resistors, R101 and R102. If you swap out the 75ks for 110.0k (1%...), you should hit 4.15V pretty close.

You could also use the parts with the new balancers I'm doing. There will be two versions, one with active HVC cutoff, and one without. Even for the latter, it will still turn the LED red for any channel that goes over 4.2V, it just won't cutoff the charge current. I added the cutoff function in a "daughter" card that goes on top of the balancer card. Sounds confusing, but it is pretty simple. I'll post some pics later.

I've also done a new version of the LVC board that includes 4mm bullet connections so that the main pack leads can be paralleled as well as the balancer plugs. One board can work for up to four 6s packs in parallel, or 6s4p.

I'm trying to put together combo packages for building packs that include everything required for building complete packs, except for the Turnigy packs themselves. The first one will be for 12s packs (2p, 3p or 4p...), and will include two LVC/parallel adapter boards a small board that lets you combine charge leads with the balancer plugs into a single 18-pin AMP connector that will be used for charging/balancing the 12s pack, extra-wide shrink wrap (248mm/9.75"...) and all required pigtails and/or connectors. There will be options to add a 12s balancer which fits in an extruded aluminum 3" x 4" x 1" box that includes active cutoff, and to add a Meanwell S-350-48 7.5A/48V CC/CV supply/charger. The output of the supply/charger plugs into one end of the balancer which then has a single matching 18-pin AMP connector which then plugs into its mate on the pack. Doesn't get much simpler than that, I think. :) You can leave the discharge wires connected, no need to unplug anything. Just plug in the single cable/plug from the balancer and turn on the supply. The LEDs will all be orange during the CC phase and then transition to green as the shunts start to come on. If an LED turns red, it means a cell hit 4.26V and the HVC was tripped, and the charge current has been cutoff. It will reset itself after the voltage for that cell goes down below the cutoff point, plus a little. Anyway, once all the LEDs are fully green, the pack is full and all the cells should be right around 4.15V.

I'll post more about all this in the next few days. I should have pretty much everything here by tomorrow, or Saturday. I plan to offer these as complete kits, boards-only, with instructions and a Mouser BOM file and also completely assembled/tested/

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
I'll post more about all this in the next few days. I should have pretty much everything here by tomorrow, or Saturday. I plan to offer these as complete kits, boards-only, with instructions and a Mouser BOM file and also completely assembled/tested/

Excellent Gary, sounds like you have all bases covered :)
 
GGoodrum said:
I'm trying to put together combo packages for building packs that include everything required for building complete packs, except for the Turnigy packs themselves. The first one will be for 12s packs (2p, 3p or 4p...), and will include two LVC/parallel adapter boards a small board that lets you combine charge leads with the balancer plugs into a single 18-pin AMP connector that will be used for charging/balancing the 12s pack, extra-wide shrink wrap (248mm/9.75"...) and all required pigtails and/or connectors.

I would very much like to purchase the complete assembled kit when available please Gary you can pencil me in for one :) have you any idea on the approximate costing of the kits at this time?

Cheers.

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
I would very much like to purchase the complete assembled kit when available please Gary you can pencil me in for one :) have you any idea on the approximate costing of the kits at this time?

Cheers.

KiM


He charges $600 if you are paying with that damn Aussie Funny money :p
I think the exchange rate is getting close to the Peso!

(yea yea.. i know.. it is going up)

He may make you mail him your gold teeth.

-methods
 
methods said:
AussieJester said:
I would very much like to purchase the complete assembled kit when available please Gary you can pencil me in for one :) have you any idea on the approximate costing of the kits at this time?

Cheers.

KiM


He charges $600 if you are paying with that damn Aussie Funny money :p
I think the exchange rate is getting close to the Peso!

(yea yea.. i know.. it is going up)

He may make you mail him your gold teeth.

-methods

LoL Methy the Aussie doallr is DEFINATELY going up and will actually be woirth more than the US dollar in the near future i hear, upto 92 cents atm So i can afford the shit now Patrick :p LOOKOUT mate im gunning for you and Luke with my latest custom build, no more "Apprentice GanGSTa" status mate...

KiM
 
W

T

F

:shock:

file.php




God help us....

-methods
 
hi
now I have all the parts I need to start using the battery packs I bought I want to check some things first.
untill I get a CC CV psu and balancing system sorted out I will be charging with a 1010b and the A30 PSU, since I am using 5s packs I can charge 2 packs at once in the format 10s.
I have 4 of garys LVC boards so I can make a 20s battery pack 3 cells in parallel, gary you have left the LVC attached using the balance wiresand connector coming off the LVC to balance the pack during charging, can I do the same thing with the 1010b, so I could charge 6 packs at the same time using the LVC boards as a linking board for charging the packs. To charge the other 6 packs at the same time with one charger I would have to charge in a 10s 6p setup this could be attcheived by pluging the balance wires from 2 of the LVC boards into the balance board that came with the charger then since one of the LVC boards balance ports are free I could plug the balance wires from the 2 remaining LVC boards into the remaining port on the first 2, making sure to keep the order correct. once all the balance wires are setup then i would plug in the power lines to charge all 6 parallel packs at once. would this work having 2 LVC boards connected to the balance wires while charging with a 1010b.

Geoff
 
vanilla ice said:
That should be good for 95, maybe 100mph. Lolz. Mad pshop skillz.

The motor on the 'seat tube' wont happen (unless Luke fits a third to his bike LoL) the one behind the seat is a definite
though, that'll be enough to smoke Methy at least :p :p :p

I would like to say too I'm really impressed with the work GGoodrum is putting in to making the Lipos more "user friendly"
for the masses... will definitely make it a more attractive option for people now not having to switch out configs for charging and use
kudos Gary bloody top job!!

KiM
 
Yes, Geoff, that would work, but I really don't like the idea of switching packs around to charge. You'l eventually get a KFF, it is just a matter of time... :mrgreen:

Thanks Kim. :)
 
GGoodrum said:
Yes, Geoff, that would work, but I really don't like the idea of switching packs around to charge. You'l eventually get a KFF, it is just a matter of time... :mrgreen:
hi Gary
thanks for that I can go ahead and start to build up the battery pack.
I will be changing to the best way to charge soon I just have to wait for the bank account to recover from the shock of buying all those batteries, this is temporary only.
the size of my battery pack is almost too much for the 1010b to handle now and I intend to add more,but a better charging system comes first.

Geoff
 
What an amateur :lol:

I've been lucky with no KFF despite a few mistakes early on. I've melted a few connectors and filled the atmosphere with copper free radicals though :p
 
You need the punch of 24S 15Ah to really do the job :wink:

-methods
 
I'm still stuffing about trying to come up with lico lipoly configurations that work with lifepo4 chargers.

I have the following chargers: 48v10A lifepo4 (58.4v), 48v25A lifepo4 (58.4v).

The closest matches to lipoly I've come up with are 14S for the 48v chargers (4.17v/cell). Neither is terribly convenient for premade Zippy or Turnigy packs.

48v10Ah options:
* Two 5S packs + one 4S pack in series paralleled with another set.
* Seven 2S packs paralleled with seven more.

Does anyone have a good guess about how much capacity is lost if packs are undercharged?

For example, what will a 5Ah pack give if only charged to 4.17v/cell (for 14S) instead of 4.2v? What will it give if charged to 3.89v/cell (for 15S)? 15S packs are much easier to build put together...
 
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