Zippy Flightmax / Turnigy lipo testing

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hi guys, I have 4 5S 5000mah turnigy lipos I want to use for a "36-volt" 10ah battery. I would like to be able to balance charge the whole pack at one go, but don't want to permanently solder up the balance taps. I'd like to know a domestic source for extensions so I can make a charging "octopus". I'd need four female plugs and a male plug or two.

Also, while I am waiting for my Anderson pp45's to arrive so I can wire this pack up I have another question. Currently, I am using 36V 10.5ah SLA's with a BD36 and get 6ish miles range riding full throttle with no pedaling and about 10-11ish miles with pedaling before the empty light starts flickering. Any guesses on how much more range I might get, if any, from 10ah turnigy's?

I am also getting a Cycle Analyst to keep track of what's going on.

Thanks!
Will
 
nicobie, I knew that I could get one from hobbycity, but wanted a US source to save shipping. I used the hobbycity title "JST-XH Wire Extension 5S" to run a google search and found these, so even though I didn't use your link, I kinda did, so thanks!
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-Connectors-&-Cables/Categories

Even though the plugs cost more from rcdude, shipping is MUCH cheaper for the same delivery time. package from hobbycity would have been about $22 package unless I wanted the slow boat and from rcdude was $14.95

I'll let everyone know how it works out. :D
 
$3.50 each

Radical RC

They have pigtials and extensions.
They will lower the price in quantity.

-methods
 
If you feel like swinging a soldering iron alot you can also get just the sockets and make up your own leads from places like this

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140292177160&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I bought these before HC were selling those extension leads but I'd probably just buy the HC ones if I was doing it again.
 
Guys, I've looked everywhere, and I cannot find a harness to parallel the balance wires for 2 X 6S packs. I can find a harness to parallel the discharge leads for 2 packs, but not for the balance leads. Does such a harness exist? or do I have to make one?

Thanks,
Gow.
 
gow, from what I've seen you have to do it yourself (that's why i was looking for the parts, such as pigtails, extensions, etc.), but maybe someone else will know better.

I'm all excited about my conversion from SLA's. My four turnigy packs will weigh less than one of my SLA's. I see another order to hobby city in my future for even more capacity. I'd love a 20-30 mile range.
 
Hello all,

** GOOD NEWS - I just received a new 3S pack (I had to pay for it) to replace the bad one I had received from HK a few weeks back, they have updated the design!!!

No more exposed silicone tape on the ends of the shrink wrap, now there is a semi hard plastic endcap beneath the shrinkwrap. They also changed the discharge plugs... the new batteries have a Male 4MM Plug for Ground and a Female 4MM Plug for +VCC. This will throw a wrinkle in some people's harnesses but personally I will just resolder a new female 4mm socket onto the GND side.

Upon receipt I confirmed 11-12v at discharge plugs - actual was 11.59v
Individual Cells: 1=3.858mv, 2=3.686mv, 3=3.865mv
Gross Difference: .010mv

This all looks great (although a quick squeeze of the end cap reveals that they are still using some form of double sided adhesive between the endcaps and the bottom of the cells. Not sure if this is good or bad yet.

I will test / measure this pack over the next few cycles and report back on it's health.

For all those looking for odd 4 * 6S, 4 * 5S, etc... I couldn't find them, had to make my own using the 10cm extension plugs from HobbyKing. My charging system is currently terrible: 2 iCharger 1010B+ charging 15S 2P as 10S2P + 5S2P. I charge/balance the 2 x 10S packs first each on their own iCharger @ 10A (2C) then I charge the 2 x 5S packs each on their own iCharger @ 10A (2C). My total recharge time using this method is a bit over 2 hours.

The only saving grace is that I can also run my bike on 15S1P for about 12-15 miles (no pedal) or 10S2P for 25-35mi (no ped) and either of those configs can be recharged 100% in < 60min @ 2C rate. With 2 iChargers I can recharge 1 of my 2 15s packs in just under an hour (or a good cup of coffee and the morning paper at a local cafe - with outdoor plugs), then swap the packs and head to work. At work, I charge @ 5A rate because'm in no hurry and I have reminders set in Outlook to changeover the packs (they are in remote location of garage).

People like methods and Knuckles have the best solutions (although someone here has to update their home wiring to support sufficient amps to charge their eBike - > 40A I think @ 110v - SIK)!

-Mike
 
The connectors linked to earlier should be easy to solder to a strip board. One female per pack and then a male cable which connects to the charger.
 

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Sadly that's what I thought "make it yourself". I have NO soldering skills at all. Look's like either two chargers or one charger that can charge two 6S packs at the same time. Any recomendations?

Gow.
 
Gow864 said:
Sadly that's what I thought "make it yourself". I have NO soldering skills at all. Look's like either two chargers or one charger that can charge two 6S packs at the same time. Any recomendations?

Gow.

I'm doing some series-parallel boards that will allow connections for up to 8 packs, is a 12s4p configuration, or four packs in parallel and two in series. The big problem is how to handle the main pack leads. It would be so much easier if HC put PowerPoles on these, or even Deans, as I can get board-mounted versions for both. Using 4mm male/female bullets makes for a lot more labor.

For my first setup, which is using six packs, in a 12s3p 44V/15Ah configuration, I have a 12-channel LVC board, with active cutoff, that has board-mounted connections for all six balance plugs, in two groups of three packs in parallel, and one output pigtail for each 6s group. For the main pack output leads, I made a harness, using 10-gauge wire and a crapload of the matching 4mm male-female bullets, to connect the packs in two groups of three in parallel. These two groups are then in series. This was a huge pain, one that I don't want to have to repeat, hence the parallel-series board.

Here's what it looks like:

View attachment ePort Runner-09.jpg

For charging, I'm using a Vicor 48V/5A very compact power supply, with the output voltage set (via a simple resistor network...) to 49.80V, which is 4.15V per cell. I also am doing a new 12-cell Charge Balancer, which will balance all 12 blocks of paralleled cells to 4.13V. Consistently charging to just under 100% each time will prolong the life of the cells. Anyway, I'll post pics of this unit later. I'm just finishing up the first one now. Each channel will have a red-green LED that will start out red, as the cell starts to charge in the CC mode, and then start to transition to orange, yellowish-orange, yellow and finally green, starting when the voltage hits about 4.00V. At 4.13V it is fully green. Anyway, once all the channels are green, the packs/cells are full and balanced.

Below is the Vicor supply I'm using, but pretty much any 48V supply with a trimmable output voltage would work fine. There's tons of 48V supplies on ebay, as this is a common voltage for phone equipment.

View attachment Vicor 48V-5A Charger-01.jpg
 
Hello again all;

Sorry but no report on the new lipo yet, haven't even run it's charge cycle.. been too busy.

Hey man, nice 5A supply... how much?

Today I had 4 6S Packs to Build +

[Parallel Charging Adapter]
4 x 6S (for the 4 x 6S Packs I am nearly finished building)
2 x 3S -> 1 x 6S

Basically I have a 6S7P lipo pack when charging.

[Discharge Mode]
15S 10AH

Discharge Wiring:
Two seperate packs of the following:
2 x 6S in Series for 12S then a 3S in series too for 15 cells in series (terminations are using Male -> Male 4mm gold plugs with 10G 700c wire.
Total works out to be 15S2P @ 10AH 20/30C (I still observe the 15/20C initial specs)

The real news here is....

While tearing open my old packs (doing repairs to PCB burn outs, shorted plugs, etc) to rebuild these new 4 x 6s packs, I put them all together (soldered, fortified, insulated, silicone insulated, white duct taped then shrinkwrapped (just for good measure) each now having a single 6S balance plug and + - discharge plugs.

I threw pack #1 on the iCharger in 2C mode (10A) and realized immediatly (upon opening LogView) the second half of the 3S pack was 40% difference SOC from the first 3S half.... damn!!!! A quick check revealed that this was the only pack I had failed to pre-charge to a nominal SOC (nominal but even)... I farted around for 1/2 hour watching the second half of this pack do nothing at all!!!

Finally I was looking at all these charging / discharging / monitoring harness I am busy soldering andI make out the tiny little print on the wire: 22 AWG 300v, 80 degrees celcius. WTF?

I pulled a few pins, canceled the charge in progress...

Inserted ground pin then orange and tested with voltmeter ... 11.88 (nominal) for good measure I tested the other half the same way and those were 12.5Xv (fully charged)... this would take forever to balance in any trickle mode and could damage the fully charged cells (NO BMS). So I had a brainfart and connected the aligater clips from my iCharger to the balance plug taps I had just mnade for the 3S packs and set the cell count in iCharger.... charger current to 1A and mode LiPo Charger (not Charge Balance).

This worked fine and after 3 minutes no warmth buildup of any kind...

I upped it to 5a and now finally after just 21 minutes... no heat on the wires and the battery is putting out 12.51v and has taken 1800mah in this time.

At this rate it will be done and near equal with the other side of the pack... No need to tear down and rebuild.

For those interested I use 2 very thin nickle weld tabs which heat up a little (about 100 F) when just one isused and 100A is pulled but with 2 they stay ambient temp.

-Hope this helps someone who has gotten their pack out of whack...

-Mike
 
Gary's LVC board is primo.

I am running one of his boards in my new 24S 3P 15Ah pack.
I have 3 more boards that (after I populate) will reside on my 12S4P packs

These LVC boards open up any device to run on Lipo - flashlights, backup batteries, power tools, portable fans, etc. No worries about overdischarge. The board * actively* cuts power with four 4110's when any one cell hits LVC.

The design is very clever - each 3.0V sensor draws only microamps. The eBrake feature allows you to set up a switch to disable your packs as well.

The matching balance-charge board is the answer for balance-charing large packs.
Please dont fall into the trap of reconfiguring your system for charing.
Do it once - do it simple - charge with a large power supply and BMS parts like these.

-methods

P.S. I need to post pictures of my new monster :D
 
I am interested in the BMS's, but have no experience populating a board. i can solder wiring/connectors fairly reliably. I do know some basic electronics. What's the chance of me getting one of these boards together? I'd like to try it out. Are there pre-populated boards by a third party or a link to some instructions? Help encourage my e-bike habit! It would be good step to helping encourage some safety in charging. If it's doable then i can post up some of my build in this thread for future reference.

thanks!
 
Just read all 87 pages of the BMS thread and you will be set :wink:

Read this

-methods
 
will_newton said:
I am interested in the BMS's, but have no experience populating a board. i can solder wiring/connectors fairly reliably. I do know some basic electronics. What's the chance of me getting one of these boards together? I'd like to try it out. Are there pre-populated boards by a third party or a link to some instructions? Help encourage my e-bike habit! It would be good step to helping encourage some safety in charging. If it's doable then i can post up some of my build in this thread for future reference.

thanks!

If you can solder, you can probably handle this, but it does take a fair amount of time. Check out the instructions here, to get an idea of what's required. On the website, which is here, you can find bill-of-material (BOM) parts list text files which can be used to automate the parts ordering from www.mouser.com, using their BOM tool. These are for the LiFePO4-based version of the BMS, but if you want to do a LiPo version, there are a few of part changes for each channel, but I can help with that.

The BMS really has two independent functions, low-voltage protection for each cell, and a way to balance the cells during the charge process. For my own use, I prefer to separate these functions into two boards, an LVC protection board that gets mounted on every pack I have, and then one "Charge Balancer" board that is in a separate box that basically goes between the pack and the charger/supply. The reason is that I have lots of different packs, and it simply is too much work to solder that many parts on a board for every pack. :roll: I don't charge them all at once, and I certainly don't have separate chargers for every pack, so I really don't need the charge balance circuitry on every pack. During discharge, the only thing that is really required, in my opinion, is LVC protection on each cell.

One of the big strengths of Lithium-based chemistries is that they will hold their voltage up high, all the way to the end, and then the voltage drops very quick. If you don't catch it, and it goes too low, the cell will be damaged, or even destroyed. The higher the C-rating on the cell, the better it will hold up its voltage, and the more pronounced this "fell off a cliff" voltage drop effect will be. Some would argue that LiPo packs are made from matched cells, and they always stay balanced, so why can't they simply use the controller's LVC function? This comes from how LiPos are used in the RC community, where they usually get balance-charged every time. If you do this, and/or don't drain your pack down below about 20% SOC, almost any Lithium-based cell/pack will stay fairly well balanced. Drain any of these, including LiPos, down to LVC cutoff a few times, without using a charger-balancer combo, and the cells will most certainly drift apart in voltage/SOC. That's because it doesn't matter how closely matched the cells were at the time of manufacture of the pack, they can and will drift apart a bit, over time, due to a variety of reasons. With balanced charging every time, these differences aren't really noticeable.

Anyway, as soon as I get this next version of the LVC board done, which will have board-mounted connectors for the pack's balance plugs. I will start making them available on my site. I will probably offer these in three versions, board-only with a parts list (like the BMS boards...), a kit with the board and all the parts, and assembled versions. The Charge Balancer will probably be board-only, but again with a set of instructions and the automated BOM lists.

-- Gary
 
Hi Will,

will_newton said:
I am interested in the BMS's, but have no experience populating a board. i can solder wiring/connectors fairly reliably. I do know some basic electronics. What's the chance of me getting one of these boards together? I'd like to try it out. Are there pre-populated boards by a third party?

thanks!

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10758&start=0

AndyH said:
We're assembling and testing BMSs for those that don't want to build their own. We buy boards from Gary at TPPacks and get parts from Mouser. The basic service is a complete board ready for you to wire into your pack and attach to your brake inhibit circuit.

There's no profit on the board or parts, and we think the flat-rate for labor is very reasonable. Don't think so? Let us know!

fechter said:
I know how much work it is to build one of those. :wink:

Even after some practice, it still takes forever.

I'm happy to see someone offering the build service. There are many folks who want one of these but lack the skill required to build one. You charge whatever you think your time is worth.

I hope we can offer a machine built (surface mount) version in the near future, but don't hold your breath. It will take a while.

fechter said:
Yes these are designed for LiFePO4 cells. To change the set points for Lipo, it requires changing a resistor and the TC54 on each cell circuit. As far as I know, nobody has tried this but it should work fine.

I bet Andy would set it up for Lipo for you.
 
I have gone thorough a good bit of the BMS thread and also saw Andy's for sale thread. I think I would rather just get an off the shelf solution rather than build. E-biking is just one of many interests I have and honestly, I just don't have the time to get into that much work and would rather pay for it. I did quickly realize that moving/swapping individual packs around and dealing with delicate balance leads etc. while getting the batteries charged is going to lead to trouble later and a unified block of batteries is the way to go for the long run. Gary, your idea for a split system is exactly what I had in mind and when you have one ready I'm sure you'll have one sold for sure!

Nonetheless, I did hold a nice soldering session last night making up new Anderson connectors and wiring harnesses up for my batts/controller/charger and even a set for my SLA's. I have enough room in my rack bag for my lipo's and SLA's, so I'm thinking about keeping the SLA's for a while just to burn through for short rides and save cycles on the Lipo's and/or as a backup pack to plug in if the lipo's hit LVC in a distant location. I will eventually replace them with another 10AH of lipo goodness.

I am going to get my packs charged tonight and I can at least go for a short lipo-powered ride. Hopefully my CA should be in today.

Here's a ghetto LVC buzzer. Cheap enough to put one on every balance connector! :D http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/...26&Product_Name=Hobby_King_Battery_Monitor_5S
 
Please - Do not use that buzzer. :)
All that buzzer is doing is waiting till the entire pack hits LVC
This will not help you a bit - just set the LVC of your controller or your CA for that function.
Make sure you set it a couple of volts higher too to account for imbalance in the pack

What you need with Lipo is an indication that the *first cell* has hit LVC.
If Hobby city is a place you like to order from, get some of these: The Shizzle

These are the best thing since sliced bread.
It will tell you the pack voltage, balance deviation, and the voltage of each cell.
It will alarm when the first cell goes over 4.22V
It has a programmable alarm for LVC that is compatible with all types of Lipo.

The readings are very accurate and it draws equally from all cells so it does not put your pack out of balance.

Hands down - the only way to go if you want to go "Ghetto"
(and I am the Ghetto Master)

-methods

Edit: P.S. It also has the ability to be shifted between Lipo mode and LiFe mode.

Those buzzers fooled me once too - since they come with a balance adapter it looks like they monitor at a cell level - but count the wires coming off the board... Only two. :? They intend for you to solder it onto ground of the bottom cell and +V of the top cell.
 
I know that the alarm is for total pack voltage, I was being a bit facetious. :wink: The description states that it measures when the pack voltage drops below 15V and says nothing about individual cells, but some folks may assume it does read at the cell level. When dealing with a $3.95 piece of tech from hobbycity, I don't assume anything!

The chargery meter you linked to is pretty cool and is a winner in the ghetto BMS fashion awards.

I did get my CA yesterday, but something is wrong with the bar mount system and I have to wait a bit more to get it corrected, although I will take the lipo's out for a short run today (two 1.5 mile work commute trips) and taking my life into my own hands by not hooking up any voltage checking parts at all. :lol:

If these lipo's can't take a 5 minute run to the store at a 5-10 C discharge (5ah pack), then i have worse problems than dealing with a BMS and wonky CA mount. :)
 
Who out there is interested in building a turn-key 36-40v 10ah-15ah pack ( probably 3 - 5 ah bricks) with charger balancer for me out of these Zippy packs ?

I only need to charge it up in 3-4 hours.

Thanks NGK
 
Nicobie, why would you cut the first wire in the 2nd balance tap?

I had planned on doing something similar. Everyone seems concerned over individual cells and using a BMS for charging. So there are no issues balancing say a 10S4p from a single balance tap once all packs have been individually balanced? Or would it be prudent to occasionally break the packs back down into 5S1P and balance each cell individually?

I can bypass some of the pack breakdown since I have a hyperion duo 3 and can do a syncronized charge and balance on two batteries at once, but just trying to get an example someone with a single charger can figure out too.

Thanks guys for all the consultation.
 
Yes, I think it is a good idea to break down the pack every once in a while but it's not necessary to go further than 10s1p as a 10s charger will balance each cell.

If you are worried (like I am) about over discharging the pack, buy some of these and put one on each battery by using the same extensions.

https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8927&Product_Name=BM-6_Cell_Voltage_Monitor_2-6S_Lipo_(New_Version)
 
nicobie said:
By cutting the wire you are making the charger think it's charging one 10s battery. If you don't you will fry the balance wires and who knows what will happen to the cells.

Yes, I think it is a good idea to break down the pack every once in a while but it's not necessary to go further than 10s1p as a 10s charger will balance each cell.

If you are worried (like I am) about over discharging the pack, buy some of these and put one on each battery by using the same extensions.

https://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8927&Product_Name=BM-6_Cell_Voltage_Monitor_2-6S_Lipo_(New_Version)

So would it hurt to connect your cut wire to the first wire on the left pack via a strip board? I.e. i was going to connect 5s packs via 6pin JST connectors on strip board by overlapping one pin ... am I asking for trouble? Doesnt this achieve the same thing?

thanks.
 
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