voicecoils
1 MW
voicecoils said:
Methods schooled me, the HKing-5S are not what I thought. No cell level protection. Ah well. Should have spent that $$ on more BM-6 units.
Zippy Flightmax / Turnigy lipo testing
- Thread starter johnrobholmes
- Start date
- Status
Methods schooled me, the HKing-5S are not what I thought. No cell level protection. Ah well. Should have spent that $$ on more BM-6 units.
liveforphysics
100 TW
Somebody didn't read the LiPo rules thread
Anyone here should make a point of reading though that before buying/using LiPo. A LiPo pack consists of cells connected together in a string, with heavy wires coming off the ends, and balance tap leads on a JST connector to give individual cell level taps. Nothing more, and I wouldn't want it to be anything more.
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah NO lipo packs come with any sort of BMS arrangement, unless you buy a whole lipo battery from ebike vendors that sell them as assembled 36 or 48v packs.
If you really don't want them voicecoils I may buy them off you, I'm only 15 mins up the road so they wouldnt have to be reposted.
And to further scare you away from lipos, here's some pics from my sick pack I mentioned earlier.
I removed the shrink wrap to find water had gotten in the little gap where the main discharge wires are protruding. It was only a small gap but the way that particular pack was laying inside my box made it like a funnel which directed all the water in there. Doh!
Interestingly despite a normal voltage reading cell 5 was quite puffed but the sick cell, number 4 looked ok. I squeezed cell 5 and the puffing went away, the air bubbled out the top of the pouch. I connected the battery for 30 seconds to my other packs in parallel (the same thing that caused the hissing yesterday) and all was fine and the voltage on the sick cell (4) came straight up to 3.5v. I'm now slow charging it to see if I can bring it back.
There was also alot of dark grey material around the top of the circuit board and underneath where the cell tabs poke up through the board. I assume this is some sort of lithium material that has escaped from the packs as it's too quick to be corrosion. It also had that characteristic 'sweet' sort of lipo smell to it.
If you really don't want them voicecoils I may buy them off you, I'm only 15 mins up the road so they wouldnt have to be reposted.
And to further scare you away from lipos, here's some pics from my sick pack I mentioned earlier.
I removed the shrink wrap to find water had gotten in the little gap where the main discharge wires are protruding. It was only a small gap but the way that particular pack was laying inside my box made it like a funnel which directed all the water in there. Doh!
Interestingly despite a normal voltage reading cell 5 was quite puffed but the sick cell, number 4 looked ok. I squeezed cell 5 and the puffing went away, the air bubbled out the top of the pouch. I connected the battery for 30 seconds to my other packs in parallel (the same thing that caused the hissing yesterday) and all was fine and the voltage on the sick cell (4) came straight up to 3.5v. I'm now slow charging it to see if I can bring it back.
There was also alot of dark grey material around the top of the circuit board and underneath where the cell tabs poke up through the board. I assume this is some sort of lithium material that has escaped from the packs as it's too quick to be corrosion. It also had that characteristic 'sweet' sort of lipo smell to it.
liveforphysics
100 TW
Classic pictures of galvanic corrosion accelerated by electrolysis from the battery voltage passing current through the water.
You can cause damage that looks like that in just a few minutes with water, aluminum, solder, and voltage/current.
The cell that hissed is a serious hazard. Make sure you charge that pack in a clay flower pot with plate for a lid, and sitting on your patio. Once they've got water vapor inside the cell, they are truly little portable fire starting hazards.
You can perhaps scavenge the other 4-5 cells from that pack, but I personally wouldn't run a cell that has puffed, pierced, and especially not one that puffed, pierced, and got water inside of it. Just my $0.02
If you know what you're doing though, and you're aware of the risks, and you have are charging in a fireproof setup, and it's mounted in a way that it's not a hazard to you on your bike, then hey, go for the glory.
Batteries + water = Fail.
Unsealed controller + water = Fail
RC motor + water = No damage? (maybe I've just been lucky so far?)
You can cause damage that looks like that in just a few minutes with water, aluminum, solder, and voltage/current.
The cell that hissed is a serious hazard. Make sure you charge that pack in a clay flower pot with plate for a lid, and sitting on your patio. Once they've got water vapor inside the cell, they are truly little portable fire starting hazards.
You can perhaps scavenge the other 4-5 cells from that pack, but I personally wouldn't run a cell that has puffed, pierced, and especially not one that puffed, pierced, and got water inside of it. Just my $0.02
If you know what you're doing though, and you're aware of the risks, and you have are charging in a fireproof setup, and it's mounted in a way that it's not a hazard to you on your bike, then hey, go for the glory.
Batteries + water = Fail.
Unsealed controller + water = Fail
RC motor + water = No damage? (maybe I've just been lucky so far?)
Hyena
10 GW
Ah well there you go, I had all those things in excess!liveforphysics said:
I didn't realise it'd happen so quickly but I guess what you've said make sense. It seems enough water got in there to get some good going electrolysis happening!
As you say I don't think it's safe to continue using, not considering it sits between my legs!
I'll salvage the 3-4 good cells and add them to my other 4 good cells (5S pack arrived with one cell DOA from hobbyking) If I keep having misadventures I'll soon have enough odd cells to make a spare 10-12S pack
voicecoils
1 MW
liveforphysics said:
A LiPo pack consists of cells connected together in a string, with heavy wires coming off the ends, and balance tap leads on a JST connector to give individual cell level taps. Nothing more, and I wouldn't want it to be anything more.
I do follow that. All I was after was a gizmo that would plug into each packs balance taps and buzz if any specific cell went low (that's what I was exaggeratedly calling 'cell level protection'). I'm going to be having a look at what Gary / tppacks.com has to offer too once it's all up on his site for LVC cell level and balancing functionality. Those buzzers don't do what I want. I thought they'd have a JST connector on the back and measure each cell's voltage in the pack.
voicecoils
1 MW
Hyena said:
Yep, I'm aware of that.
Is it the buzzers you'd be interested in? None of the rest would be for sale (all mine!!! 8) ).
I'll try to keep water off my lipo packs :lol:
vanilla ice
1 MW
You get HVC protection from a balance charger, and (like you say its not cell level but..) a JST LV buzzer is only $3.50 per 6s, pretty cheap! The buzzer along with a dash meter is enough IMO.
MrKang
100 W
Then you may have :
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah no one wants to see these headlines in the local paper about them!
The BM6 does do what you want though, plug it in to each pack and it'll beep when any cell gets too low. You'd need 3 for a 15S2P pack. They're dearer than the other ones that vanilla ice mentions but they're alot better. The cheap buzzer ones only have a 2 wire connection that's measuring the whole pack voltage. If one cell hits 2v while the others are all still 3.5 it won't go off
No worries, I was more thinking of the packs themselves if you didn't want them without a LVC. Alot of people are real girls when it comes to lipovoicecoils said:
The BM6 does do what you want though, plug it in to each pack and it'll beep when any cell gets too low. You'd need 3 for a 15S2P pack. They're dearer than the other ones that vanilla ice mentions but they're alot better. The cheap buzzer ones only have a 2 wire connection that's measuring the whole pack voltage. If one cell hits 2v while the others are all still 3.5 it won't go off
SpeedEBikes
100 W
voicecoils,
I highly recommend the celllog8 made by Junsi and sold through HobbyCity. As the name says they can monitor up to an 8s pack. They have a nice screen and reasonably easy interface which allows you to configure them. You can set a variety of alarm conditions, high and low voltages per cell, max difference between cells (handy to quickly catch a connection failure within a parallel array, max change in voltage per cell (haven't needed that one yet). The built in alarm is pathetically quiet, but there is a connector for rigging an external alarm. I use seriously loud buzzers I got from Digikey that can be powered with 3-30 volts AC or DC. I power them with the full voltage of my 7s li-ion packs. This works really nicely. I can set the low voltage cutoff a little conservatively such that the buzzer trips under high load well before the pack is flat. Then I know it's time to ease up on the throttle and make my way home gingerly to avoid continued retriggering of the alarm. But if I need the power I can still use it without the motor cutting out such as what happens with more traditional BMS protection. If the alarm is triggering unexpectedly easily I can stop and check the celllog's screen to see every cells voltage and the reason for the alarm. Also, the unit is a data logger too and you can dump all the data to your PC which is handy for tracking a pack as it ages. And the units are very accurate too.
One issue with the ones sold so far is that they only draw power from cells 1-6, so they will slowly unbalance a bigger pack unless you regularly do balance charges. There's a supposedly easy fix for this, but I haven't had a chance to try it and test it yet.
I highly recommend the celllog8 made by Junsi and sold through HobbyCity. As the name says they can monitor up to an 8s pack. They have a nice screen and reasonably easy interface which allows you to configure them. You can set a variety of alarm conditions, high and low voltages per cell, max difference between cells (handy to quickly catch a connection failure within a parallel array, max change in voltage per cell (haven't needed that one yet). The built in alarm is pathetically quiet, but there is a connector for rigging an external alarm. I use seriously loud buzzers I got from Digikey that can be powered with 3-30 volts AC or DC. I power them with the full voltage of my 7s li-ion packs. This works really nicely. I can set the low voltage cutoff a little conservatively such that the buzzer trips under high load well before the pack is flat. Then I know it's time to ease up on the throttle and make my way home gingerly to avoid continued retriggering of the alarm. But if I need the power I can still use it without the motor cutting out such as what happens with more traditional BMS protection. If the alarm is triggering unexpectedly easily I can stop and check the celllog's screen to see every cells voltage and the reason for the alarm. Also, the unit is a data logger too and you can dump all the data to your PC which is handy for tracking a pack as it ages. And the units are very accurate too.
One issue with the ones sold so far is that they only draw power from cells 1-6, so they will slowly unbalance a bigger pack unless you regularly do balance charges. There's a supposedly easy fix for this, but I haven't had a chance to try it and test it yet.
voicecoils said:liveforphysics said:
A LiPo pack consists of cells connected together in a string, with heavy wires coming off the ends, and balance tap leads on a JST connector to give individual cell level taps. Nothing more, and I wouldn't want it to be anything more.
I do follow that. All I was after was a gizmo that would plug into each packs balance taps and buzz if any specific cell went low (that's what I was exaggeratedly calling 'cell level protection'). I'm going to be having a look at what Gary / tppacks.com has to offer too once it's all up on his site for LVC cell level and balancing functionality. Those buzzers don't do what I want. I thought they'd have a JST connector on the back and measure each cell's voltage in the pack.
MrKang
100 W
I'm doing the same with my new project to use 3 cellogs (which probably are coming in 2 weeks from hobbycity)
here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13442&start=15 you can see the follow up.
here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13442&start=15 you can see the follow up.
will_newton
1 kW
mwkeefer
1 MW
will_newton said:
F-IN-A man, that's the beginning of what I've been hoping to see... since it appeared hobby king was slowing down on restock of 5AH packs... I monitor stock levels daily on 5s and 6s in 15,20,25,30c availablility and I missed this one (time to rewrite my screen scraper code to handle new stock items too).
Just in time for xmas - give it some time.. I think we will see higher mah ratings nearer 8000mah in 15/20C packs before too long... these will be perfect for eBikes / LEV use as a single parallel will be more than adequate for most users needs... 3C would be 24A nominal draw capable - most 36v 750w legal kits are 22a limited. Pulling up to 5C from these packs should be nothing (I know they are rated for much much more, I like my packs to last a year of twice daily charge cycle so 730 cycles minimum) - anything less and I would be better off with 2P of 5000mah packs even with added size and weight.
BTW: Earlier there are posts saying that CellLog8 has an "easy" to use interface - NOT! But it is doable, they perform low level and high level warnings but... the logging features seem to be somthing which user must turn on... I've been working on interfacing to 3 of these currently. Ive built a simple optical sender / receiver unit to isolate each CellLog8 (as I had previously done with BM6 but they are not correctable for incorrect calibration while the CellLog8 is!) but still allow the CellLog8s to output serial data and to allow Atmega48 digital input lines (serial io is only on and off so even gradual decay of LEDs will not be an issue for many years past the service life of the unit - assuming 10 years lifespan.)... this means the Atmega48 just uses interrupt based code to process the serial input (optoisolated) from the 3 CellLog8s which is a very simple standard protocol used by LogView which ... if you go to View->Expert->Serial you will see the actual serial protocol that the data is transmitted from the CellLog8 and received by the LogView software... the atmega is receiving this same data x 3 lines.
An interesting note: The same protocol is implemented by many various products like iCharger (hit the device select screen in LogView and look at the available hardware devices.)
The end game is to have 15-24s of HVC/LVC monitoring + Active bypass and pre-charge startup and use off the shelf parts:
3x CellLog8 for $83.94 and 357g
1x Arduino Mini @ 16mhz (with Atmega168) for $18.95ea
about 15.00 in misc parts - regulators, leds, photo transistors, resistors, wires, etc. This is everything needed to scrap together this interface.
So for a beginner the total cost is about: 120.00 USD with shipping of parts.
For an experienced user the Atmega168 is about 6.00 each which is used with a few supporting components to replace the arduino prototype board and reduce the build cost (while increasing the complexity).
While these will provide LVC/HVC and logging (a plus) they aren't really ready for controlling charge process since they can't balance the packs (yet).
-Mike
MrKang
100 W
mwkeefer said:
Hi mwkeefer!
Very interesting project ! When are you starting this project ? can i read anywhere about this project of yours ? I want to build the same thing earlier only very basic. just 3 of those cellogs extended from batterycase to dashboard of scooter. but you wanted to have the serial data extended and to be " recorded" with the Arduino Mini ?
Need more input !! hehehe
mwkeefer
1 MW
Mr. Kang,
I'm surprised it took this long? Wondered how long it would take.
I have begun this project - testing it tonight using CellLog8 just gathering output data and such. The opto isolation I use with BM6 will work fine with these (since they have built in relay of sorts) and you could bring the logging data out... it's one directional so I think we can just tap it pre SIL (TTL->USB) for the actual TTL level serial feed (in Logview format)... then on an arduino side, 1 digital input leg per cell log 8 will suffice (reading LED pulses for serial IO at 9600b).
There are a few mods to the CellLog8 I have to work out... so the first thing I'm doing is a PC based app which monitors 4 serial ports and aquires up to 24s of cell data + voltage + current and logs it. Once I get the rough cut of managing the charge process via PC and windows, I will port the rough cut to Atmega.
Just a note: Internally the CellLog8 isn't much more than a BM6 - same Atmega48 and such - to move the LCD off the CellLog8 wouldn't make much sense since they are parallel drive LCDs and would require 10-12 lines per screen... meanwhile you could marshal together the results from the logged output with an arduino and then drive your own UI display.
1.) Enable or Disable the LCD screen to conserve energy
2.) Enable or Disable back lighting to conserve energy
3.) Determine if CellLog8 will pull power from full pack of 5,6 or 8 cells? If not correct this.
4.) Determine factory calibration error % and determine if recalibration is required (this is why I am shying away from BM6 - no calibration possible)
5.) What happens with CellLog8 when memory is full - does logging output continue (it has to be switched on to begin with) - I still haven't filled one up to find out and don't think I can change the sample rate so... they are supposed to hold a full 24hr worth of data.
6.) Determine a manor for disconnecting the CellLog8 load for storage longterm from a single switch.
Once I have the above engineering questions answered... I need to optically couple the logging output from the 3 units together with an arduino. Optical isn't really a requirement but it's much cleaner for isolation and I would rather send 5 or 6 (cat5) wires up the underside of my main tube for interface to a primary BMS controller than 24-30 wires.
-Mike
I'm surprised it took this long? Wondered how long it would take.
I have begun this project - testing it tonight using CellLog8 just gathering output data and such. The opto isolation I use with BM6 will work fine with these (since they have built in relay of sorts) and you could bring the logging data out... it's one directional so I think we can just tap it pre SIL (TTL->USB) for the actual TTL level serial feed (in Logview format)... then on an arduino side, 1 digital input leg per cell log 8 will suffice (reading LED pulses for serial IO at 9600b).
There are a few mods to the CellLog8 I have to work out... so the first thing I'm doing is a PC based app which monitors 4 serial ports and aquires up to 24s of cell data + voltage + current and logs it. Once I get the rough cut of managing the charge process via PC and windows, I will port the rough cut to Atmega.
Just a note: Internally the CellLog8 isn't much more than a BM6 - same Atmega48 and such - to move the LCD off the CellLog8 wouldn't make much sense since they are parallel drive LCDs and would require 10-12 lines per screen... meanwhile you could marshal together the results from the logged output with an arduino and then drive your own UI display.
1.) Enable or Disable the LCD screen to conserve energy
2.) Enable or Disable back lighting to conserve energy
3.) Determine if CellLog8 will pull power from full pack of 5,6 or 8 cells? If not correct this.
4.) Determine factory calibration error % and determine if recalibration is required (this is why I am shying away from BM6 - no calibration possible)
5.) What happens with CellLog8 when memory is full - does logging output continue (it has to be switched on to begin with) - I still haven't filled one up to find out and don't think I can change the sample rate so... they are supposed to hold a full 24hr worth of data.
6.) Determine a manor for disconnecting the CellLog8 load for storage longterm from a single switch.
Once I have the above engineering questions answered... I need to optically couple the logging output from the 3 units together with an arduino. Optical isn't really a requirement but it's much cleaner for isolation and I would rather send 5 or 6 (cat5) wires up the underside of my main tube for interface to a primary BMS controller than 24-30 wires.
-Mike
methods
1 GW
AussieJester
1 TW
Seeing i am in the market for Lipos i am wondering if the 5800mah is worth the extra 30 bucks over the 5000mah...~$us560 for
8 packs of 22v 5000mah Turnigy's against ~$us800ish for the 5800mah packs...
KiM
8 packs of 22v 5000mah Turnigy's against ~$us800ish for the 5800mah packs...
KiM
Hyena
10 GW
I wouldn't bother Kim, they're almost double the price of the 15-20C 5000mah packs, and its not like we need the 30C discharge rates for our ebike use.
The 30C 4500mah LiFePO4 is an interesting addition to their lineup though!
I wish they'd start selling 5 and 6S packs as 2P, that'd save alot of messing around, and now that packs have the male-female bullets for the -ve and +ve leads they're a piece of piss to wire up in series out of packet.
The 30C 4500mah LiFePO4 is an interesting addition to their lineup though!
I wish they'd start selling 5 and 6S packs as 2P, that'd save alot of messing around, and now that packs have the male-female bullets for the -ve and +ve leads they're a piece of piss to wire up in series out of packet.
Hyena
10 GW
Oh and HK/HC now have another BM6 / cell log style device.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10385
Just added to their line up and only 14 in stock.
They did a similar thing with their turnigy wattsup clone - they must only produce a few to start with and gauge interest by how many people back order them.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10385
Just added to their line up and only 14 in stock.
They did a similar thing with their turnigy wattsup clone - they must only produce a few to start with and gauge interest by how many people back order them.
liveforphysics
100 TW
AussieJester said:Seeing i am in the market for Lipos i am wondering if the 5800mah is worth the extra 30 bucks over the 5000mah...~$us560 for
8 packs of 22v 5000mah Turnigy's against ~$us800ish for the 5800mah packs...
KiM
8 of the 5.8Ah packs would give you the ability to do 31Kw continously, and provide 1Kwhr of energy.
OR, for about the same money...
12 of the 5Ah packs would give you the ability to do 27Kw continously, and provide 1350Kwhr of energy.
I started out with the intentions of trying to talk you into the 30C packs, but after working the numbers it seems going with 12 of the 5Ah 20C packs would likely be a better setup for you, since you've got a slick battery box that can hold them all so neatly
AussieJester
1 TW
Hyena said:
That was my thinking also Hyena. I haven't ordered as yet, i have set aside funds from this pay and will go for the full eight 5000mah packs in 2 weeks rather than initial 4 packs as first planned...OH...also...what size wire? i was thinking 10awg or will 12 do? I want to use the bullet connectors Gary uses on his u-beaut boards also...
KiM
EDIT: Soz Luke i missed your post there when i replied...Ill eventually get the 12 mate but 8 is going to be it for a month or so, i couldn't of afforded that many straight up if it it wasn't for Gary kindly donating the boards and balancers for the setup...All in good time though Luke, i would LOVE to be able to ride this to the beach in the future, thats a 80km round trip with a hell of a hill to get back up...
GGoodrum
1 MW
Kim, don't ask Luke what size wire, or you'll end up with an extra 20 pounds on that cruiser. 
The Turnigy 6s-5000 packs use 10-gauge wire and 4mm bullet plugs. I'd use 10-gauge from the LVC boards to the controller, etc. which are fairly close in your setup.
Although I have your LVC boards built, and ready-to-go, I'm holding off sending them to you until I get I the HVC and balancing stuff sorted out. Based on some things I did yesterday, I may add the HVC logic to the pack-resident LVC/4p adapter board, and then put the cutoff circuit with the small adapter board that combines the charge leads with the two balance plugs, into the single 18-pin charge/balance connector. I had planned to include this on the balancer board, but this is changing.
Yesterday I received the four 6s Battery Medic balancer units I ordered from HC. These are pretty amazing little units. They are tiny, compared to the small 6s 50W balance chargers (about 1/3rd the size...), but they have much larger displays that also include graphics. They also have double the balance current. I took apart one of the Turnigy 6s 50w balance chargers I received a couple days earlier, to measure the shunt resistance used. It just didn't seem like it was using the 300mA of balancing current they advertise. It turns out each channel has six 120 ohm resistors in parallel, which is about 20 ohms, so the max current is only about 200mA, not 300. I then popped the case off of the new 6s balancers I just received, and it has ten 100 ohm shunt resistors in parallel, so 10 ohms. That means 400mA is the max, which is closer to the listed 450mA max, shown on the web site. Here's what these look like, along with a AA cell for size comparisons:
One of the big problems I've had with RC-based balancers, and balance chargers, is that they balance to whatever the lowest cell is at, not to a set voltage. What happens is that you end up with the 6s blocks in the pack having different voltages. This balancer, however, also has a balanced discharge mode as well, which lets you balance to a fixed voltage point that is settable from 2.0V to 4.2V in .1V increments. Problem solved.
What I'm looking at now is simply doing a 6s shunt "booster" unit for each of these that will boost the shunt/balancing current up well over an amp. That will perfect for even the largest capacity ebike packs. I'll be testing this idea this weekend.
More later...
-- Gary
The Turnigy 6s-5000 packs use 10-gauge wire and 4mm bullet plugs. I'd use 10-gauge from the LVC boards to the controller, etc. which are fairly close in your setup.Although I have your LVC boards built, and ready-to-go, I'm holding off sending them to you until I get I the HVC and balancing stuff sorted out. Based on some things I did yesterday, I may add the HVC logic to the pack-resident LVC/4p adapter board, and then put the cutoff circuit with the small adapter board that combines the charge leads with the two balance plugs, into the single 18-pin charge/balance connector. I had planned to include this on the balancer board, but this is changing.
Yesterday I received the four 6s Battery Medic balancer units I ordered from HC. These are pretty amazing little units. They are tiny, compared to the small 6s 50W balance chargers (about 1/3rd the size...), but they have much larger displays that also include graphics. They also have double the balance current. I took apart one of the Turnigy 6s 50w balance chargers I received a couple days earlier, to measure the shunt resistance used. It just didn't seem like it was using the 300mA of balancing current they advertise. It turns out each channel has six 120 ohm resistors in parallel, which is about 20 ohms, so the max current is only about 200mA, not 300. I then popped the case off of the new 6s balancers I just received, and it has ten 100 ohm shunt resistors in parallel, so 10 ohms. That means 400mA is the max, which is closer to the listed 450mA max, shown on the web site. Here's what these look like, along with a AA cell for size comparisons:
One of the big problems I've had with RC-based balancers, and balance chargers, is that they balance to whatever the lowest cell is at, not to a set voltage. What happens is that you end up with the 6s blocks in the pack having different voltages. This balancer, however, also has a balanced discharge mode as well, which lets you balance to a fixed voltage point that is settable from 2.0V to 4.2V in .1V increments. Problem solved.
What I'm looking at now is simply doing a 6s shunt "booster" unit for each of these that will boost the shunt/balancing current up well over an amp. That will perfect for even the largest capacity ebike packs. I'll be testing this idea this weekend.
More later...
-- Gary
Hyena
10 GW
Thanks for the inside pics Gary. 400ma from that tiny little unit is quite impressive! Are the shunt resistors on the other side of the board or are they all those surface mount ones shown in the above pic ? Does this unit have a buzzer for HVC/LVC like the BM6s or is it just the visual display ?
Have you seen these wattsup meter clones that also have a 6S balancer in them Gary? They'd be ideal for permamantly mounting as part of a power supply charger. It'd be interesting to see what sort of shunt resistors they're running
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110456304931&rvr_id=&mfe
Have you seen these wattsup meter clones that also have a 6S balancer in them Gary? They'd be ideal for permamantly mounting as part of a power supply charger. It'd be interesting to see what sort of shunt resistors they're running
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110456304931&rvr_id=&mfe
GGoodrum
1 MW
Hyena said:
Yes, these are interesting as well, although it appears that you can't use the WattsUp and balancer modes at the same time, and I doubt it has the balanced discharge mode that lets you balance to a set voltage point.
On the HC 6s balancer, the shunt resistors are the ones you see in the picture.
-- Gary
- Status