E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners
- Thread starter Cowardlyduck
- Start date
TorEddy
100 W
I bought the Sram Eagle X-Sync 104BCD Drev, Black, 38T
I didn't find to many to choose from in this size.
https://bikeshop.no/sykkelkomponent...104bcd-drev-sort-38t-116218033030-p0000091847
I didn't find to many to choose from in this size.
https://bikeshop.no/sykkelkomponent...104bcd-drev-sort-38t-116218033030-p0000091847
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
We also have some N/W 38t in stock if you guys need one with some other spares.
Adam
Adam
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
We had a little more delay on the beta belt kits, as we added some more improvements before shipping them.
Added some stainless steel flanges to the back sproket, and better hardware for the spring and suspension pivot bolt.
Some more details tomorow, with shipping planned for Friday.
Adam
Added some stainless steel flanges to the back sproket, and better hardware for the spring and suspension pivot bolt.
Some more details tomorow, with shipping planned for Friday.
Adam
Thanks for the update Adam.
Looking forward to riding without cringing at the noise or having to back off when approaching people from behind so as to not scare them.
Cheers
Looking forward to riding without cringing at the noise or having to back off when approaching people from behind so as to not scare them.
Cheers
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Yes, here is the WIP document to see what is involved in this swap
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1riIClh8gAOQW36nuLtX_HZuoTJerjIm2O1lIAAd0Jhk/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1riIClh8gAOQW36nuLtX_HZuoTJerjIm2O1lIAAd0Jhk/edit?usp=sharing
Hi Adam
In the procedure page 10. You are using a "key Lug" I'll be needing one. On the internet I didn't really find anything.
What's the size and whats the real name for this key? I'm getting to see a lot of pictures of spanners, but not the one I need.
In the mean time. I have found out that this is a "Center Lock", but none look like the one I need. I think the closest I find, is a rear suspension adjustment spanner.
In the procedure page 10. You are using a "key Lug" I'll be needing one. On the internet I didn't really find anything.
What's the size and whats the real name for this key? I'm getting to see a lot of pictures of spanners, but not the one I need.
In the mean time. I have found out that this is a "Center Lock", but none look like the one I need. I think the closest I find, is a rear suspension adjustment spanner.
Attachments
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Hi Joe, yes a shock adjustement spanner should work. We had some special ones lazer cut, if you really need one we could sell you one but it would be cheaper to find a standard one.
Search for a 55mm hook spanner.
The nut has a outside diameter of 55mm. Here is a picture with a key tool we also use on the mill.
Kits are packed and being shipped.
Adam
Search for a 55mm hook spanner.
The nut has a outside diameter of 55mm. Here is a picture with a key tool we also use on the mill.
Kits are packed and being shipped.
Adam
Looking great.
Question about torque through it...what was the max phase amps you tested it with and how much above it would you think is ok?
Not looking for a guarantee, just don't want to snap my belt straight away.
Cheers
Question about torque through it...what was the max phase amps you tested it with and how much above it would you think is ok?
Not looking for a guarantee, just don't want to snap my belt straight away.
Cheers
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
5 kits made, one for us is under testing and the rest have already been reserved/sent out to testers.
We will be waiting for long term feedback to produce more kits. Probably in MAY we can deliver final kits if the feeback is good.
Adam
We will be waiting for long term feedback to produce more kits. Probably in MAY we can deliver final kits if the feeback is good.
Adam
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Cowardlyduck said:Looking great.
Question about torque through it...what was the max phase amps you tested it with and how much above it would you think is ok?
Not looking for a guarantee, just don't want to snap my belt straight away.
Cheers
As said before, it has been tested to 166A phase (stock LMX setup)
More than that is not something I would reccomend...
We tried full amps+brake at zero RPM a few times without issues.
The serial 14T sprokets should also cause less harm and wear to the belt than the first test one we did on our small CNC, as we altered the teeth profile to match the belt on this low diameter.
A spare belt has been dispatched with your kit as requested.
Adam
Thanks Adam...forgot you already mentioned that. 
And thanks for the spare belt! I think I will drop it down to 175A (from 190 currently) and see how it goes.
I really like my mode 3 being able to lift the front wheel so we will see how I go.
Cheers
p.s. for those watching I did pay for the spare belt, it was not a freebie...although without knowing what it costs I just added a hoodie to my order and asked for it to be replaced by the belt.
And thanks for the spare belt! I think I will drop it down to 175A (from 190 currently) and see how it goes.
I really like my mode 3 being able to lift the front wheel so we will see how I go.
Cheers
p.s. for those watching I did pay for the spare belt, it was not a freebie...although without knowing what it costs I just added a hoodie to my order and asked for it to be replaced by the belt.
SlowCo
1 MW
Cowardlyduck said:
No, no, you will have a spare belt so you need to test out where the limit of the belt is! Just increase the phase amps until the belt looses its teeth or breaks so other owners know how far they can dial up the amps...
st35326
1 kW
SlowCo said:Cowardlyduck said:
No, no, you will have a spare belt so you need to test out where the limit of the belt is! Just increase the phase amps until the belt looses its teeth or breaks so other owners know how far they can dial up the amps...
Feel like there are Sur-Ron guys running belt drives at 2-3x those power levels and hitting 70mph. On this bike its probably more likely dirt or mud compromises a tooth than power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8Ia6P1dBBI&t=606s
Well you make a good point....maybe I will try up to 200A, but no more than that or I risk breaking other parts of the bike besides the belt.SlowCo said:No, no, you will have a spare belt so you need to test out where the limit of the belt is! Just increase the phase amps until the belt looses its teeth or breaks so other owners know how far they can dial up the amps...
Yeah, but what belt, sprocket etc are they running? You can't compare it without the details being the same.st35326 said:
Either way, I can't see the controller, motor, battery combinations on the majority of LMX 64's allowing much more than the 200 phase amps I've already pushed mine to. I mean you could, but really it will just be a game of chasing the next weakest link forever after that.
That is exactly what I did on my Stealth Fighter for over 7 years before I finally got it dialled in. A painful experience I don't exactly want to repeat on the LMX 64.
Cheers
Yeah, about time too. I've been telling those guy's to ride a 64 for months now.Simonten said:
[youtube]7Fm6XcAGk1Y[/youtube]
Jump to 4min for the LMX part.
I also sent in some photo's of my LMX, but I think I did it the wrong way...will try again.
Cheers
My LMX 64 has finally met it's match! I will have to make a video of it, but I tried riding it up a local hill I had never considered rideable...and I guess it still isn't. I'm talking over 30 degree's steep with many large, loose rocks. I can barely walk up it, so it's not exactly a fair test, but I just wanted to see if the LMX could do it.
What stopped me was the motor overheating, shooting straight past 140C and didn't stop till reaching 160C
Hope that doesn't do any permanent damage, but it seems fine after it cooled down.
Anyway, the hill I climbed was to see this:
[youtube]DALN25Ye63I[/youtube]
[youtube]BWfUH-OVb_Q[/youtube]
I'm keeping a close eye on it, but pretty safe where I am.
Cheers
What stopped me was the motor overheating, shooting straight past 140C and didn't stop till reaching 160C
Hope that doesn't do any permanent damage, but it seems fine after it cooled down.Anyway, the hill I climbed was to see this:
[youtube]DALN25Ye63I[/youtube]
[youtube]BWfUH-OVb_Q[/youtube]
I'm keeping a close eye on it, but pretty safe where I am.
Cheers
bzhwindtalker
100 kW
Those pics are impressive... Glad you were Fine durant those fires.
What whas the outside temp during your ride?
Normally the nucular with our config should be set to max 135 Celcius.
Anything above that puts the motor with risks of hall sensor dying.
We never actually killed the windings on any of those motors. We had however the phase wires short inside the casing on one of the 60mm ones on the 161h. That was climbing 100 meters of elevation on stairs with the 14-94t gearing, clearly asking for trouble^^
I am on holiday from work next week and will be riding in the Alps with the 64 with the belt and silixcon controller.
New vlog coming, a lot of things happening behind the scenes with the 64 homologated version and what it means for the lmx 64 offroad versions too.
Différent scenery for sure :
What whas the outside temp during your ride?
Normally the nucular with our config should be set to max 135 Celcius.
Anything above that puts the motor with risks of hall sensor dying.
We never actually killed the windings on any of those motors. We had however the phase wires short inside the casing on one of the 60mm ones on the 161h. That was climbing 100 meters of elevation on stairs with the 14-94t gearing, clearly asking for trouble^^
I am on holiday from work next week and will be riding in the Alps with the 64 with the belt and silixcon controller.
New vlog coming, a lot of things happening behind the scenes with the 64 homologated version and what it means for the lmx 64 offroad versions too.
Différent scenery for sure :
Thanks Adam.
Outside temp was around 37C so pretty hot. I haven't changed the Nucular config and the max motor temp is still set to 135C.
The motor did start to cut out at around 135C as mentioned, but I guess the thermal inertia kept it going up to 160C. Either that or the temperature sensor isn't right on the windings and there is some lag before it registers the winding temp.
It makes me wonder if there is anything that can be done to help keep things cooler. I was thinking about putting a thin, quiet 80mm or 120mm computer fan underneath the motor if it will fit and running it if off a small 12v DC-DC converter. That should help keep everything cool and run more efficiently.
What do you think?
Cheers
Outside temp was around 37C so pretty hot. I haven't changed the Nucular config and the max motor temp is still set to 135C.
The motor did start to cut out at around 135C as mentioned, but I guess the thermal inertia kept it going up to 160C. Either that or the temperature sensor isn't right on the windings and there is some lag before it registers the winding temp.
It makes me wonder if there is anything that can be done to help keep things cooler. I was thinking about putting a thin, quiet 80mm or 120mm computer fan underneath the motor if it will fit and running it if off a small 12v DC-DC converter. That should help keep everything cool and run more efficiently.
What do you think?
Cheers
