New 60v Build. What can i do next?

[pwbset]

Should probably start a separate thread for this... don't like thread hijacking. :|

if you go on long distance rides, do you take chargers with you?

I do exactly 15mi round trip everyday and 90% of the power usage is in the morning uphill and then the batts sit all day with about 2ah left, which is plenty to get me home downhill. No problems so far. Chargers are cheap on Amazon.com (like $20 a pop) so getting more wouldn't be too bad.

could you describe your battery configuration n charger name or specs? Myself I'm interested in building either Milwaukee or dewalt 72v 8-9ah. Or could even go 56v, which a standard clyte 48v could handle. is there certain threads or posts that describe on building these packs from start to finish?

You should do a member search for posts by lazarus, maytag, jondoh, mlrosier etc. And also search "Milwaukee" and "emoli" and read, read, read. It's all there. They all have detailed information on how to build a Milwaukee setup. Ditto DeWalt. I guess the online prices just went up quite a bit on the Milwaukee packs. Word it out. :?

how heavy are both your batts n chargers? Is this around 10-12lb range?

My 6 pack of Milwaukees all mounted up and ready to ride is exactly 15.4lbs.

Is your battery pack connected through anderson connectors on your clyte controller?

Yup. My personal Milwaukee build is here -> http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4716

What about having to balance cells? What's this continual process like?

The default Milwaukee chargers with take care of balancing for you... unless you rip out and re-purpose the cells etc. Then you're on your own.

 

[Link]

Once i take the fets out the controller it will be useless to me. Got tired of picking and wittling and drilling at the potting compound on my other 60v controller. Looks jacked up but still works. Prob get rid of the throttle other handle bar cap. The motor is broken down but still laced in the rim. Its up for grabs for the ultra low low

The controllers I don't need (I have no batteries capable of that kind of amp draw) but how much you want for the motor? Keep in mind that I'm virtually broke?

 

[icecube57]

u set a price thats reasonable... what its worth to you... u know the history of it......link is whording brushes from me i would have paid top dollar. ill post more after picks since its broken down. and pay shipping... prob be better to ship unlaced from the rim unless u want to pay the ups fees for packing an oddly shaped item other wise the motor itself should fit in a usps priority box. if u know a source for the brushes let me know it would be 20 to 40 dollars to get brushes vs 349 for a motor/controller only package

 

[icecube57]

Recent purchases
This company is actually in my state but 3 hrs away.
(2) REPLACEMENT BRUSH KIT BD-36 (I BOUGHT TWO) Might be the brown instead of the white ones metal insert i hope
http://www.javacycles.com/productdetail.php?prod_id=81 $62.06 USD
(1) 36V 500W brushed speed controller e-bike scooter WOOT!!! 30A!! I love you ECRAZYMAN!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260233414355 $29.00 USD

$91.06 total in parts.
Vs.
394.35 for a 48v motor and controller kit.
http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/sparrow.htm

Link what all did you replace in this controller when u upgraded... fets? caps?... anything else... how many caps does it have? 2 i would think. 50v probably. I got 2 100v caps and 8 60v fets.

 

[Link]

Recent purchases
This company is actually in my state but 3 hrs away.
(2) REPLACEMENT BRUSH KIT BD-36 (I BOUGHT TWO) Might be the brown instead of the white ones metal insert i hope
http://www.javacycles.com/productdetail.php?prod_id=81 $62.06 USD
(1) 36V 500W brushed speed controller e-bike scooter WOOT!!! 30A!! I love you ECRAZYMAN!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260233414355 $29.00 USD

$91.06 total in parts.
Vs.
394.35 for a 48v motor and controller kit.
http://www.electricrider.com/crystalyte/sparrow.htm

Link what all did you replace in this controller when u upgraded... fets? caps?... anything else... how many caps does it have? 2 i would think. 50v probably. I got 2 100v caps and 8 60v fets.

Yeesh. I only paid like $20 (or was it $10?) for a replacement brush assy for the BD36 from werelectrified. They seem to be out of stock, though.


The stock FETs and caps in the Yi-Yun controller are both 60V on the ones I got. FETs are 50A IIRC, and the two caps are 470µF.

I replaced the FETs with 4110s and the caps with some generic 100V 470µF ones from eBay. The stock schottky diodes are good for 100V 40A, so they'll be fine with the 30A limit still in place.

You're using the FETs from the other controller, right? They're probably rated for more than 60V, since a fully charged pack will be well over that.

There is a third lead on the power connector for the board logic. I've fed this directly from a 48V pack before. I don't know if it could handle 60V input. You might want to add a zener or something to it. You may be able to just use a 36V tap off your lithium since it has a BMS. Don't leave it connected all the time, though.

 

[docnjoj]

Have U tried Earl at Poweridestore.com for brushes! Hes just outside of Atlanta!
otherDoc

 

[icecube57]

His site is jacked up wont allow you to search and links lead back around to the same place. I didnt call him directly. He seems to carry high caliber stuff anyways. I know brushes were 10 bucks at werelectrified but i called them up they said they were out of stock on controllers and brushes. I had no alternative the deed is done. Link the controller i bought wast a shenzhen sucteam technology has no 3rd connector for the logic. As far as the fets go i looked up the model number and they said their rated at 60v not +or- so im assuming they are going going on the hope factor...(I hope nothing goes wrong with this controller) The model number i looked up .. their maybe a sub model or extension of that same model. The pic of the fet is up a page or two in this thread

 

[Link]

His site is jacked up wont allow you to search and links lead back around to the same place. I didnt call him directly. He seems to carry high caliber stuff anyways. I know brushes were 10 bucks at werelectrified but i called them up they said they were out of stock on controllers and brushes. I had no alternative the deed is done. Link the controller i bought wast a shenzhen sucteam technology has no 3rd connector for the logic. As far as the fets go i looked up the model number and they said their rated at 60v not +or- so im assuming they are going going on the hope factor...(I hope nothing goes wrong with this controller) The model number i looked up .. their maybe a sub model or extension of that same model. The pic of the fet is up a page or two in this thread

Ah, I see.

I have noticed that the new controllers Keywin (e-crazyman) sells do look different than the ones I have. For stock operation the third lead was just a PITA to deal with, anyway. Hopefully, the regulator will be rated for like 100V or more.

60V FETs on a 60V controller is marginal. FETs will take a few more volts over their rating, but, like I said, it's a razor thin line when you do this, and they probably won't last as long. I'd get some proper 100V FETs, if I were you.

Also: Ha ha, "Sucteam". :lol:

 

[icecube57]

Here are some aftermath pics of the positive brush on the brush holder. The negative side was like new. A pic of both sides of the motor. Look at the discoloration of the windings ..how theyve turned that bluish purple color. I just overhauled everything. from upgrading the wires sanding blasted away the peeling paint. The guy at the motor shop help me strip things down clean everything. Im pressing in new bearings sunday when i go to work. I clean and treated the threads on the shaft. Basically applied a metal bonding compound to the threads and used a tool that cleans and applies/reshapes new threads they looked brand new. Got a welder to reinforce the drop outs. Basically he applied more metal to close the ends up and i took a file and squared it. The axel fits so snug now. There was nothing wrong with them to begin with but while im waiting on parts and have access to the tools i went ahead and done it. Im going to de solder the fets and caps today..

I forgot to mention this earlier has anyone experience their motor feeding back electricity like a generator. Before my motor died I had my watts up meter plugged up and everything but i was riding my bike like a regular bike and my watts up meter came on and start giving me voltage readings while i was riding that peaked into the 30s... the way my wiring is set up it couldnt give me any amperage readings. But i thought it was intresting.

 

[Link]

*snort* :lol: Wow, that's a very abused-looking commutator.

Anyway, yeah. The motor will generate a voltage potential when you're riding. The Watts Up meter can take power from either the source or load side, but it won't read amps flowing backwards. I noticed this when I plugged it backwards into my batteries to see how many amps my charger was really giving me once.

 

[icecube57]

One of my brushes/brush holder came in today so i was eager to reassemble my new clean motor. Everthing went together smoothly i replaced the screws that holder the motor together with black steel screws. I stripped my allen before i stripped the screw... the original scews suck. They werent quite the right size easily stripped . I mounted my wheel back to the bike free wheels nicely. I have that lovely free wheel brush click. I took my 12v battery out my drill and connected it to the motor. Eureka!!! it runs. Im just waiting on a controller now. Some where in the air or international waters... who knows. USPS tracking isnt worth a damn. I stripped my old controller down the fets came out nicely. I tested all of them with my volt meter. I broke my Dual High-Voltage Schottky Rectifiers 20-100v legs. I got a small gauge copper wire the same size and solder new legs on. Im pretty sure i will need them right??? i got (2) 100v 470 uf caps (6) NEC 3435b Fets and a frankenstien Rectifier. Someone let me know if i have everything to upgrade my controller

 

[docnjoj]

icecube57 wrote:
Recent purchases
This company is actually in my state but 3 hrs away.
(2) REPLACEMENT BRUSH KIT BD-36 (I BOUGHT TWO) Might be the brown instead of the white ones metal insert i hope
http://www.javacycles.com/productdetail.php?prod_id=81 $62.06 USD
(1) 36V 500W brushed speed controller e-bike scooter WOOT!!! 30A!! I love you ECRAZYMAN!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0233414355 $29.00 USD

Thanks icecube57. I may need that info, cause those brushes look the same as my Crystalyte/WE old brushed motors! I wish they just sold the brushes!
otherDoc

 

[icecube57]

i bought two brushes from the javacyles guy. The guy only actually had one in stock and said that he would be getting more in a week. He will send the other one out as soon as they come in. I only allowed this because the guy is some what local... id hate to go to his shop and smack him up for a brush. I was thinking that the crystalyte brushed motor had the same brushes but i think they may be slightly different. Diamater or brush shape maybe. Im not sure.

 

[Link]

i got (2) 100v 470 uf caps (6) NEC 3435b Fets and a frankenstien Rectifier. Someone let me know if i have everything to upgrade my controller

Mmmhmm. Though unless you want to bump up the current limit the old schottkys will work fine.

Everthing went together smoothly i replaced the screws that holder the motor together with black steel screws. I stripped my allen before i stripped the screw... the original scews suck. They werent quite the right size easily stripped .

Ugh, yeah, I know. They suck big time. I stripped like three of mine. I cut slots into them with a Dremel cutoff disc and used a big automotive flathead screwdriver. They haven't given me any more trouble.

 

[icecube57]

NO! Im going to keep this bad boy at 30A. Did u mean keep the rectifier in the stock crazyman controller or replace it with the frankenstien one i pulled from my 60v controller.

 

[Link]

The stock rectifiers should be good for 100V and a total of 40A (2 x 20A), so you can just leave them in.

You might want to double-check the part numbers, though, since they may have been replaced with something else in the newer controllers. If their part number is something like 20100, then you don't have to swap them out.

 

[icecube57]

HBR20100 same as the MBR i think. There was supposed to be two i only pulled one but im not sure there is two in the new controller probably maybe...EDIT i got two.. =P my bad .... funny thing is with these caps laying here my automotive teacher in high school used to charge them and leave em out because someone was snooping around his desk.... when he hear someone scream he would rub back an say gotcha.

 

[Link]

Yeah, I think that's the same one I have. The naming scheme matches, in any case, so you should be fine.

Also, to someone sufficiently nerdy in these things: A schottky array (like that in a TO-220 package)...is it rated by what the individual diodes can take or what it can take if both diodes are used? (You're fine in either case, icecube.)

 

[icecube57]

Im not sure but i see where your coming from. I had 1 Rect with 3 fets on the high and 1 rect and 3 fets on the low side. im boggled at the concept of if they were combined it would only be 40A but i know other components in the controller were doing well over that. and with the fets being right at 60v im wear of everything im about to do. Im wait for that hand gun sound going off. Im just ready to ride again so bad im tempted to straight wire this to a push button switch just to get my fix... then ill be back at square one again.... i so do not want to open this motor again anytime soon. Or see another motor or controller atleast until my birthday or christmas comes

 

[icecube57]

I obtained a controller from the usual places cause i couldnt wait for ecrazymans controller... Just to fubar a cyrstalyte brushed controller. I have a 40w iron i think its to hot im going to get a lower watt one cause this one lifted the traces on the pcb around the fets.. I had a desoldering bulb and got the bulk of the solder up. I need to get a solder wick. Maybe that will clean things up better without tearing up traces due to extended encounters witht the tip of my iron. This controller is super compact. which didnt help much Any tips.... before i fubar another controller i consider this a costly practic run before i mod the ecrazyman controller. I got a slew of irfb4310 fets and a bunch of 470uf-1000uf 100v and 63v caps. I got a surprise as soon as i check something with something and replace this with that. Gotta love craigslist. If you can decrypt some model numbers u can find my next build. Four plus zero = nine but five minus three equals point zero five.

 

[icecube57]

ok i bought a 45 watt desoldering. that has a special tip with built in sucker. This is what i needed yesterday
it has a tip that fits over the leg of the fet. it heats the solder in 2 seconds and u depress the suction bulb and absolutely no solder on the fet leg. Do it to all three and the fet falls out literally. Imma hope maybe i can salvage this controller and jump some wires maybe. or hope enough wire gets in the hole to touch something.

 

[recumbent]

I know this is a bit late, but you can buy brushes of every description at "automotive/truck electric" shops, the kits are in plastic bags to match-up parts for your hub motors.

 

[icecube57]

Been there done that all the ones i saw were rectangular. Besides i fubard the brush holder to where i couldnt use it even if i got replacement brushes plus I dont think it would be a good thing to contact three places on the commutater plate at once besides it doesnt fit... with shaving yeah it could fit but i got a new one installed... going to run alot few amps and i got a spare one and a new 409 motor which is much easier to find brushes for right now...vs the WE which seems to be out of stock until the parts get shipped from overseas. Im set for a while. I just saw LINKS WE his looks alot different i like the smooth slick cover he has vs mine. My controller has arrived at my post office... its out on the mail truck some where ... ill get is a little after noonish.... still practing my skills for the real thing hope i dont fubar thistcontroller although the new desoldering iron takes the guess work out of removing stuff its all about installing stuff.... oh fets hurt like a mofo when they blow up by the way...

 

[Link]

I just saw LINKS WE his looks alot different i like the smooth slick cover he has vs mine.

And it took me a load of work to get it that way. But, yes, it looks nice in brushed aluminum.

oh fets hurt like a mofo when they blow up by the way...

I got lucky and learned that with only a small transistor. I think I had accidentally connected it up backwards. It blew up short order (surprisingly loud for something so small) and burned me when I touched it.

 

[icecube57]

i picked up the ecrazyman controller from the post office and removed the caps and fets ... that went smooth. The installation of the new fets went smooth. I desoldered/removed several connectors. The one for the brake... the brake light.... the voltage meter... and the power lock. I left the battery... motor and throttle wires intact. I plug everything up i get the spark... that shows the caps are working properly but other wise its a dead controller. Some reason i think the power lock wires were supposed to be shorted/connected??? maybe to turn the controller on. The watts up meter says the controller isnt drawing any current what so ever which leads me to believer the power lock may need to be shorted but i have no clue which wires went where when i desoldered them. anyone care to advise http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=260233414355&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=016