Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

Some Update:

up to 5,5KW Regen eBrake killed a bunch of spokes.
so i did it also....change to motorcycle spokes and shinko SR241.

6 Hours of Lacing my first Wheel. 3 of them to true the wheel. I drilled the Cromotor Spoke Holes to 4mm.
Spokes i only found in 9g (4mm) Was tired of Searching also.

Rim is an Excel 19x1.4...it was a special order. No way to find another Rim in Black. ProWheels was out of Stock + Shipping to Germany
is near same Expensive. I hope that i never get any Problems with that Wheel/Rim/Spokes.....(now...)

The Wheel is true enough for me....wobbles 1mm in each direction. The Tyre wobbles alot more.
tried it 3 Times to fix that.....No Success. On Driving i dont feel that. But i hate it when i know theres something not that perfect i like....

Bare Motor with Rim has now 13,4Kg
Incl Tire 17Kg (!)....Heavy...Backwheel alone weights same as a complete ebike *lol

But Thx to all who postet tyre stuff to help me finding the right parts.
...special thx goes out to Rix to be my spoke calculator ;P

Some Pics:

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IL0A8615.JPG
 
Merlin those pictures of the bike are sexy, because I can't think of better words.

Problem is that the bike is so dam good and so dam expensive that I would be scared to ride it off road.


Bare Motor with Rim has now 13,4Kg
Incl Tire 17Kg (!)....Heavy...Backwheel alone weights same as a complete ebike *lol

I wouldn't even try to take a bike that looks like it could go off road (ie best forks money could buy),,, Because it would fail either suddenly or in a a while all the parts would need replacing. I might be wrong but it looks to heavy for anything but bitumen straight roads that a $200 hardtail I could do. (not so comfortably)

Nice though would love to ride it on road.
 
Hm... Did you read the rest of this topic John?
Don't see a raptor as a heavy bicycle.... For me it's a light weight motorcycle...
The suspension parts will not fail because it's to heavy.
In a crash there's some mass involved that maybe will bend your fox40. But not because it has to work for it is build.
Look what components have a bomber.... Look what skilled people's can do with it.....
And offroad? What means offroad for the unique person?
For someone it is just a ride through the wood....
For Another one is a redbull rampage jumping 50 feet jumps.
For me (and what I see in your videos) the raptor works well without having problems with the parts.

My raptor is an any time every where bike.... I Do everything with it.
That's why I have to carry much as possible battery juice and fenders that protect me and my clothes... Really.... I know how it looks ;) (also a fu*** sidestand... But it's very practical all the time)
... that's the only way to arrive "100 percent clean" at work....

Beside all that usable stuff I wanted also the bling factor of kashima coated parts and anodized "accessories" :p
 
John Bozi said:
Merlin those pictures of the bike are sexy, because I can't think of better words.

Problem is that the bike is so dam good and so dam expensive that I would be scared to ride it off road.


Bare Motor with Rim has now 13,4Kg
Incl Tire 17Kg (!)....Heavy...Backwheel alone weights same as a complete ebike *lol

I wouldn't even try to take a bike that looks like it could go off road (ie best forks money could buy),,, Because it would fail either suddenly or in a a while all the parts would need replacing. I might be wrong but it looks to heavy for anything but bitumen straight roads that a $200 hardtail I could do. (not so comfortably)

Nice though would love to ride it on road.

Hey John, don't know if I am understanding you correctly, but if I picking up what you're throwin down, then you are saying that you don't think Merlin's bike would be good off road, not because it wouldn't be, but because in case of a crash, parts would get expensive to replace? Is that what you meant? Let us know. Looking at Merlin's bike and build components selection, its top notch good stuff and his ride would handle Off Road duties easily. I know I couldn't break it with the way I ride, except for maybe a high speed crash like on any bike such as you had mentioned.
 
Mammalian04 said:
Grrr... Ok, I am having trouble figuring out how to accomplish shifting with a right hand throttle. I purchased a Shimano XT M772 Shadow 9 Speed Short cage to shift on the 5 speed sunrace freewheel but the trouble is the shifter with a right hand twist throttle.

Marcn suggests a couple grip shifts (won't work with twist throttle). I think Snellemin has a left hand throttle to address this (old post?).

Anyone have any ideas? The 5 speed needs a 5.5mm index. I was thinking the Shimano Rapid Fire Plus but I can't find the indexing distance (I think a 7 speed is the lowest made).

Hey Mammal, we're using a left hand half twist throttle, as this is what we're used to considering most throttle enabled electric bikes in Australia come with left hand throttles. Same reason why our front brake is on the right.
 
marcn said:
Hey Mammal, we're using a left hand half twist throttle, as this is what we're used to considering most throttle enabled electric bikes in Australia come with left hand throttles. Same reason why our front brake is on the right.


Thanks Marc and others. I just ordered up some Shimano shifters recommended by Marc and will put them upside down on the left bar. Kind of ghetto but it will work for now I guess. Thanks gents!
 
Just did a really stupid thing.

Took too many links off my chain, thinking I had more than enough room. Well these raptors have over 10.5" of rear travel, probably like 11" when measured by the arc of the swingarm like most downhill bikes are measured. That's a lot of real travel.

The chain stopped my shock travel for the last inch, so I was only getting 2.5" of my 3.5" shock stroke. I thought it was a shock problem from running too little PSI in my shock. Was going to send it back for warranty until I just noticed that the chain was too short.

Anyway, I was doing lots of jumps. The whole chain system took the full brunt of each of those jumps stopping the shock. I hope the hub motor and chainring/bottom bracket didn't get damaged any by doing this. Everything feels fine but who knows.
 
Offroader said:
Just did a really stupid thing.

Took too many links off my chain, thinking I had more than enough room. Well these raptors have over 10.5" of rear travel, probably like 11" when measured by the arc of the swingarm like most downhill bikes are measured. That's a lot of real travel.

The chain stopped my shock travel for the last inch, so I was only getting 2.5" of my 3.5" shock stroke. I thought it was a shock problem from running too little PSI in my shock. Was going to send it back for warranty until I just noticed that the chain was too short.

Anyway, I was doing lots of jumps. The whole chain system took the full brunt of each of those jumps stopping the shock. I hope the hub motor and chainring/bottom bracket didn't get damaged any by doing this. Everything feels fine but who knows.


Good One!!
 
Well, It's a good heads up to all. When you set chain length, make sure you remove your darn spring and make sure the shock completely bottoms.

I honestly thought I had plenty of room in the chain.

These bikes have so much rear travel that you'll be amazed just how much that chain shrinks on bottom out and how much the derailleur needs to move, especially if you're using a short cage one.
 
Merlin said:
Did you have a pic from your derailleur with the "too short" chain?
As I know you are using the zee also and iam too with that 3,5" shock.

Merlin, unfortunately I can't find any with it installed incorrectly. What I was doing was removing links after a few rides, slowly adjusting my chain length. I wanted my bottom derailleur pulley to face slightly forward this way if I land on something like a rock, it would push the pulley up rather than not being able to push up and having it break off my derailleur.

My derailleur pulley, the one lowest is kind of pointing straight down now, yours is pointing slightly back. When I had too many links removed it was slightly forward. Each link comes off in 2 or 3 pieces to be able to use the missing link. removing 3 chain pieces moves the derailleur ever so slightly.

You guys using gears and big chain rings are going to have to remove the spring and see if you can bottom the bike in your biggest gears. You may be surprised to find out that you can't bottom your shock either.

I'm happy anyway that I don't have to send my shock back for warranty and not be able to use my bike.

One tip is if your shock is under warranty don't ever mention it is used on an ebike, they won't honor the warranty. I slipped up when talking with fox, but it was only a call and I didn't give my name.
 
Merlin said:
Some Update:

up to 5,5KW Regen eBrake killed a bunch of spokes.
so i did it also....change to motorcycle spokes and shinko SR241.

6 Hours of Lacing my first Wheel. 3 of them to true the wheel. I drilled the Cromotor Spoke Holes to 4mm.
Spokes i only found in 9g (4mm) Was tired of Searching also.

Rim is an Excel 19x1.4...it was a special order. No way to find another Rim in Black. ProWheels was out of Stock + Shipping to Germany
is near same Expensive. I hope that i never get any Problems with that Wheel/Rim/Spokes.....(now...)

The Wheel is true enough for me....wobbles 1mm in each direction. The Tyre wobbles alot more.
tried it 3 Times to fix that.....No Success. On Driving i dont feel that. But i hate it when i know theres something not that perfect i like....

Bare Motor with Rim has now 13,4Kg
Incl Tire 17Kg (!)....Heavy...Backwheel alone weights same as a complete ebike *lol

But Thx to all who postet tyre stuff to help me finding the right parts.
...special thx goes out to Rix to be my spoke calculator ;P

Some Pics:

Very nice!

What kind of fenders are those?
 
awesome pics merlin!
i also like the fenders.

i have made many attempts at getting a chain/derailer/single speed freewheel to work but no success so far.
what type of freewheel did you get, as the one i have only takes the wider bmx chain and so wont work with most derailers.

how did you get around this problem?
 
I use a 10 speed chain on my cheap dicta freewheel without any issues. They use English thread and are 3/32" which will work with any speed chain.
 
Jonboy said:
Guys I'm just ordering up the last few bits to bolt on to my new raptor and just want to make sure I get the seat clamp correct I'm looking at the Hope Quick release is it 34.9 or does the 36.4 close up ok I just checked the OD of the tube it's 35.4 ish.. HHMMM :?:
Mine was 34.9. It fits well
 
Hey Carnivors :D

Fenders are from a Cruiser.

http://www.classic-cycle.de/Schutzbleche-Kettenschutz/Schutzbleche-Ducktail-26-Zoll-schwarz.html

When you can live with some Ugly details those fenders do their job 100% :D
90kph on wet Street and not even one drop on my shoes/pants ;)

Also Happy with the Shinko 8cm Tire.
 
What's everyone doing for running high powered lights (3500lumens+) off a 72v battery? Are you just using DC-DC converters like this using a Y cable if needed for 2 accessories, or a spider cable for more or are you buying multiple DC-DC converters?
 
iam on the same "question"....i will use the cheap chinese dc/dc for my Bikelights. But only legal once (just max 6w together) for 5v/12v Usb charging i wil luse a normal handy charger.

the cheap china dc/dcs can only handle up to 60v.
so i will use a "Tablet" power supply to handle my 30s/125v.

Lipo30s 125v -> 50w PS Output 19v -> DC/DC China 6v (BikeLights) + small handy charger 2A/5v
 
I thought about the same thing. I've heard some don't hold current as well as others. I'm looking at a Mean well unit at the moment. Presumably you can load up the output as long as your current isn't larger than what the converter can put out. The Mean well has over current and over temp protection and an indication LED and it's isolated as well. Don't think more than one is needed @ 10A even for our starship battle lights all on at full bore. Just need to create some spider leads now so i only have to hard wire in one connection point.
 
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