Ruined $150 Shimano Deore hydraulic brakes

How about upgrading to the saints? But I heard the fin pads don't do much. I have metal sintered ones, the best currently. I have several packs, but they're non finned.

https://www.backcountry.com/shimano-saint-m820-disc-brakes?skid=SHI00B6-BLAGOL-FRO&ti=U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM6QnJha2VzOjE6MzpCcmFrZXM=
 
Buy a good used, rebuildable suspension fork.

MarkJohnston said:
Probably not the best fork. Hmm where you get a affordable quality one



Kool Stop disk pads, sintered or ___? I forget the other common names.
Semi Metalic
Organic

Have you tried the $3 mystery specials disk pads on Alibaba/Aliexpress?

Chalo said:
They go through pads pretty quickly, but are otherwise satisfactory.
 
markz said:
Kool Stop disk pads, sintered or ___? I forget the other common names.
Semi Metalic
Organic

Have you tried the $3 mystery specials disk pads on Alibaba/Aliexpress?

Chalo said:
They go through pads pretty quickly, but are otherwise satisfactory.

We use Avid fully metallic pads only. Buyers can use what they like, but the fleet gets OE pads.
 
markz said:
Buy a good used, rebuildable suspension fork.

MarkJohnston said:
Probably not the best fork. Hmm where you get a affordable quality one



Kool Stop disk pads, sintered or ___? I forget the other common names.
Semi Metalic
Organic

Have you tried the $3 mystery specials disk pads on Alibaba/Aliexpress?

Chalo said:
They go through pads pretty quickly, but are otherwise satisfactory.

Where? Website to visit for fork.
 
Chalo, aside from some of your "Austin values" commentary occasionally, I like many of the technical aspects of your posts. However, your take on brakes here is indicative of the problem we see on all these ebike forums. Trying to make blanket applications on brakes based on a pedicab application is probably not the best apples-to-apples comparison.

On one hand the principle of braking and the components involved do have a physics and engineering based thread of commonality. However, there is a world of difference between hardcore mountain biking, lighter weight serious road biking, fat tire cruisers, and pedicabs. Maybe I'm misreading your intent here, but how many applications of rim and cable pull disc brakes do you see on Downhill MTB's? How many 4-piston, 203mm rotor disc hydros do you see on a Walmart Huffy?...apples-to-oranges applies here.

I guess just doing the Fred Flintstone deal of putting down your feet to slow down your conveyance has some effect, but brake type and the power delivered can be critically important to the specific application. Your love of rim brakes and cable pull discs is your business, but be realistic when you seem to suggest that they are all that is needed for ideal effectiveness for all ebike applications.
 
Guess nobody really mentioned, but you could also look at the converse side... why are you going so slow / riding the brakes so much going down hill? Possibly better tires/suspension/cornering technique/route planning would let you go faster down hill? Possibly a posture adjustment and a baggy top so you can set up straight and poof up like one of those flying squirrels for aerobraking? Any possibility to set up some regen braking and capture some of that energy vs blow it all away as heat?

Also depends a bit if this is a short/fast braking hill or a long 'forever' hill. Short/fast shouldn't be too much of an issue. For example a couple of my routes have hills where it's pretty easy to hit 40mph/70kph. One hill ends at a "T" intersection, one ends at a traffic light...which is almost always red! But those are only quick stabs on the brake...one and done. IF this is a long hill, you could hit a tipping point where the brake pads get too hot and become less effective, so you stab the brakes harder, which makes more heat, makes pads even less effective an so on. This is generally called a 'runaway'. In that case, technique and keeping speed slow alternating brakes, (or using both effectively) would be a big key. But one thing you wouldn't want to do is get up to 40mph and start riding the brake continuously, then try to slow down after a few more miles of that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYBxwzgOm2I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3sPuf-Dlmg
 
All brakes work and function based on the same principal:

Use friction to convert momentum into heat. Then shed that heat into the the atmosphere.

Whether it's pedicab, mountain bike, or semi truck... it's all the same principal. Friction, heat, air cooled.

If you are frying your brakes it is because they are not large enough, do not have enough thermal mass, and can't shed heat fast enough. And the solution is always going to be the same. Get bigger brakes and/or brakes with better cooling.

For bicycles the biggest brakes you can get are rim brakes.

The biggest problem with rim brakes isn't that they are not effective. It isn't that they wear out the rims. It is't even that they need periodic adjustments to remain effective. The problem is that they don't work well on large tires. Rim brakes for large tires need to be very thick and heavy to prevent flexing.

That is why cars don't use them. Because it would be very expensive and very heavy to have rim brakes that are large enough to fit around a car tire, but also stiff enough to prevent the brake flexing under pressure and to deal with thermal expansion.

The heat issue is, however, why cars use heavy cast iron calipers and heavy cast iron vented rotors and such things. The cast iron handles heat very well and is very stiff and is cheap.

The reason bicycles use lightweight aluminum calipers, hydraulic brakes with itty bitty tiny reservoirs that are far too small, with stainless steel rotors with all sorts of fancy holes cut in them is....

1. The "serious" people that spend lots of money on bicycles know absolutely nothing about engineering and instead are slaves to fashion and marketing. They purchase products to impress their friends, make themselves feel good about "being smart about technology" (because that is what the marketing teams on GCN and similar youtube channels have successfully bulshitted them), and usually want bicycles that look like race bikes they see on TV.

2. They are dirt cheap easy to produce and are the absolute minimum that manufacturers can put on their bikes and still maintain the "light weight" aspects of their bicycles. For whatever reason marketers have successfully convinced people that weight is the most important part of their bicycles.

-------------------

Fortunately electric vehicles have a easy solution for this sort of thing... regenerative braking.

It should be a freebie.
 
TNC said:
Your love of rim brakes and cable pull discs is your business, but be realistic when you seem to suggest that they are all that is needed for ideal effectiveness for all ebike applications.

I've been riding bikes as a primary means of transportation since 1987. I worked as a shop cycle mechanic first in 1992, and continuously since 2009. Some of that time I was a 300+ miles per week rider, some of that time I lived in a city where I rode on streets with 20+ percent grades, and some of that time I commuted daily on my bike at a body weight over 400 pounds. My body weight has exceeded 300 pounds for over 20 years now.

My point is, I've demanded much more of bicycle brakes than most people are physically capable of demanding, for more miles than most people will ever ride in their whole lives. There was a period when I bent an average of one MTB fork per month, by braking. With rim brakes. On the street. Someone who isn't heavy enough to do that unless he crashes into something can't assess for himself how strong a brake really is. He only knows what its lever feel is like.

I suspect that's where you're at, like most people who declare hydro discs to be categorically stronger that other brakes, without being able to push any brakes to their physical limits. You're assessing a brake's power by its lever response. But that's not power, it's just lever response.

I like to point out that any brake which can tip up your bike up on its front wheel is as strong as it is possible to use on that bike. But when I do that, I'm holding down the bike with over 350 pounds of my own weight, so it's a different thing than when you do it. When I ride my cargo e-bike down a hill, I have to dissipate the potential energy stored in almost 500 pounds of bike and rider (plus whatever I'm carrying) as I drop in elevation. So the heat generated will be more than that of a smaller rider on a smaller bike, even if he thinks he's super fast and his bike is so badass.

That is why I like to refer to e-pedicabs as one benchmark of brake performance. There's no other place in the world besides a two bench pedicab where bicycle brakes are ever asked to slow or stop 700 pounds of rolling mass per brake. And those big trikes don't use bicycle hydro discs because such brakes don't cut it. There are some hydro discs on pedicabs as I pointed out before, but they're motorcycle levers connected to racing go-kart calipers and thick proprietary rotors (and they still have problems).

So you can go on telling yourself that a brake's lever feel and initial response is the main indication of how much its maximum or continuous braking power is, but please don't tell other people that. You don't know, and you can't know, what the maximum power of most kinds of brakes is-- because your bike will kick you off before you get to that point.
 
Chalo, my reference to lever "feel" was only in relationship to hand/wrist fatigue and pump while mountain biking. Some of your comments touch on exactly what I was saying about comparisons regarding bikes, components, etc. in all types of bicycle use. I too work at a bike shop. I've also worked at a motorcycle shop. That and $2 gets you a cup of coffee at Starbucks. So many of our experiences as to the bikes we're using and how we're using them tends to blur the lines of advice and opinion because many times we're talking about hugely different venues. And that's what happens to so many of these discussions. Unless OP's bike and how he's using it is really made clear, giving specific, usable advice is hard to achieve.
 
And there is the problem.

All to often OP's are not clear and often vague and hardly clear it up or come back in some cases.



TNC said:
Unless OP's bike and how he's using it is really made clear, giving specific, usable advice is hard to achieve.
 
markz said:
And there is the problem.

All to often OP's are not clear and often vague and hardly clear it up or come back in some cases.



TNC said:
Unless OP's bike and how he's using it is really made clear, giving specific, usable advice is hard to achieve.

I made it clear. What else do you need to know?
 
In general I'm saying hence plural OP = OP's

Go direct drive and use regen braking for planned braking and use brake pads for quicker response.

MarkJohnston said:
I made it clear. What else do you need to know?
 
Even race drivers know how much to use their brakes. Don't get hydraulic brakes on a bike out side of spending money and bragging rights. Only thing about rim brakes was wearing out the rim but now that I have found regen that is not even a worry now. But i'm not a racer and slow down before needing to break when I can. Don't even need rear brakes anymore having a trike and dual front brakes.
 
ZeroEm said:
Even race drivers know how much to use their brakes. Don't get hydraulic brakes on a bike out side of spending money and bragging rights. Only thing about rim brakes was wearing out the rim but now that I have found regen that is not even a worry now. But i'm not a racer and slow down before needing to break when I can. Don't even need rear brakes anymore having a trike and dual front brakes.

LOL!..."Don't get hydraulic brakes on a bike out side of spending money and bragging rights."

And there it is. You seem to be suggesting that because your trike doesn't need disc brakes because of two-wheel front brakes and regen, that no one else needs disc brakes. Am I reading that correctly or humorous sarcasm?
 
MarkJohnston said:
markz said:
And there is the problem.

All to often OP's are not clear and often vague and hardly clear it up or come back in some cases.



TNC said:
Unless OP's bike and how he's using it is really made clear, giving specific, usable advice is hard to achieve.

I made it clear. What else do you need to know?

Sorry, I missed the "cargo" reference. Mark, is this a hub or mid-drive motor? What about tire/wheel size?
 
TNC said:
but how many applications of rim and cable pull disc brakes do you see on Downhill MTB's? How many 4-piston, 203mm rotor disc hydros do you see on a Walmart Huffy?
You don't see cable pull disc brakes on spendy MTB's primarily because hydraulic disc brakes are seen as "cool" and "modern" and "the thing to have" - and they work just fine (given a large enough rotor) for downhill MTB's. They also "feel" good; they require minimal pressure to operate and there is very little dead space during activation.

Likewise, you don't see hydraulic discs on a Walmart bike because then the bike would cost Walmart $94 instead of $43.

Disc brakes work just fine for most applications; I have been using 180mm discs on my ebike plus trailer with no problems. But then again, I have regen.

For applications where overheating is the issue, switching to a rim brake could well make sense. You could even do it as an add-on to just one wheel, as long as you use it consciously to do most of the work during the downhills (or whatever braking regime is causing the problem.) A lot of problems immediately go away with a rim brake.
 
MarkJohnston said:
I made it clear. What else do you need to know?
Can you do regen? That might solve most of your problem.

Is your bike mid-drive? Geared hub? Direct drive hub?

Do you have the appropriate bosses to mount rim brakes if you wanted to?

What are your wheel sizes?
 
What about dual brakes?

One method is dual disc brakes, to help ease the heat buildup.
Needs to have flanges on either side of the hub, more costly.
Could do that front and rear.

Also use quality disk pads from a known entity (bike store) not generic pads and not from an unknown source like most of the sellers on alibaba/aliexpress, as those could be counterfeit.

Another method is to have a lever activating two cables, disk + vbrake. I had some cheap levers with two cable mounts, but there is also stuff you can buy for regular levers that split the cable into two.
It was to finicky for my liking. Problem Solvers might have something.

I literally have rid 2 days in a row with no brakes, only eabs low on a dd hub, front. You hook it up to the Wuxing levers, or check out Grintech.
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/ebrakes.html
 
I have disc brakes! Like them. Hydraulic brakes have there place. We know long cables stretch. A person can heat up any brakes, need to learn not to. Maybe moped or motorcycle brake and rotor would stay cool, maybe.
 
100lbs bike? Is it not a hub? If it's a hub just use regen braking.
If it's not a hub, get metal sintered pads.
 
nicobie said:
Seeing as how this is an ebike forum I'd think that using regen braking is a given.

No. Unless you have a low torque motor, that's a great way to wreck your hub motor's axle and your bike's frame. I'll pass.
 
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