E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Cowardlyduck said:
Thanks 1abv.
The Saints would be great...the price not so much.

I think I'm sold on the MT2/MT4 combo, and I've just measured the DNM USD-8 steerer on my Fighter and 255mm left so heaps left for mounting to the Alpha.

I realised I need to get this stuff asap as I wanted to mount my 18S LiPo in my Fighter soon and I'll need to strip it somewhat to get the LBS to mount stuff.

Speaking of mounting stuff, I've already got a headsets on both bikes...do I even need a LBS to do it for me? I just watched a bunch of video's on how to mount forks and think I could probably do it myself if I'm careful.

Jay, the Chrome Alpha has some bearings already in the steerer tube. I'm guessing they will do the job with the USD-8's or should I get a new headset?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Kind of blows me away how some of us are good in some areas and weak in others, I struggle with electrics but there isn't nothing on the chassis I can't handle, conversely, some are the opposite. The only thing you need to do is get the bottom headset bearing cone off the fork and always match that to to the head set it came with. Its a pain removing the cone from the fork stem, A think screwdriver and lots of patience as you carefully move each side my .05mm up the stem until it clears the stem flange. You can do this.
 
Rix said:
Kind of blows me away how some of us are good in some areas and weak in others, I struggle with electrics but there isn't nothing on the chassis I can't handle, conversely, some are the opposite. The only thing you need to do is get the bottom headset bearing cone off the fork and always match that to to the head set it came with. Its a pain removing the cone from the fork stem, A think screwdriver and lots of patience as you carefully move each side my .05mm up the stem until it clears the stem flange. You can do this.
Click to expand...
Yeah, too true.
I know nothing about servicing my car and have no intention to learn as it's a dying tech, but suspension/ forks will always be around so that's a skill worth knowing.
I'm keen to learn so will give it a shot. :D

I've just put through the order for the RockShox and MT2/MT4 combo so figures crossed it works out for me. :)

Cheers
 
Dying tech!
B along time bfor were all driving teslas,
Being a mechanic crosses over to lots of helpful things,like putting forks on ! :roll:
 
Nice pics ABV.

Good call on getting new brakes CD. Trying to swap over brake lines an adapt old brakes would be an exercise in false economy and waste of time and effort for little gain or saving. It's probably too late now but did you look into the difference between the MT2s and MT4s ? I thought they were there essentially the same and the 4s only had carbon levers and extra reach adjustment or some such trivial mtb wankery. If that's the case I wouldn't bother spending extra on MT4s over MT2s. Running MT5s up front are worth springing extra for, that's typically how I build my bikes. MT2 rear MT5 front.

Fair enough re: the USD-6's. I wouldn't bank on cycling deal anyway, they only have the 15mm axle versions, incompatible tapered steerers AND they're sold out. Uncle Hyena has the upgraded 20mm versions but if you're not interested anyway then that's that. I wouldn't totally exclude other fork options though for the sake of $100 if you're already bottoming out USD8s. I know you're on a budget but sometimes you need to just bite the bullet and spend a bit extra. Penny pinching to save $50-100 on an overall build only to have the shortcomings of those parts shit you every time you ride it sucks. Otherwise it ends up becoming a case of 'a fool pays twice'
This is something I tell people all the time when building ebikes. If you think you might want more power later on then spend a bit more up front on a better controller or higher C rate batteries or a bigger motor or what ever. I've lost count of the number of times people have rejected this advice in favour of doing it for less, only to turn around a month later and have an almighty whinge when they have to buy a new battery.

Swapping forks is, as less scholarly types say, a piece of piss.
Remove your front brakes at one end or the other, remove your stem cap bolt, loosen the stem and top triple clamp bolts right off, lift the bike under the belly to move the angle around a bit and the fork will pretty much drop out on the floor. Removing the front wheel first can make it less or more manageable depending on what you're doing.

I'll make a video shortly assembling a FLX frame. If you haven't done it by then you can just copy that.

one4torque said:
SB Seat.... finally broke today 2 mi in the bush. Had to cobble a rough field repair with a pc of stick jammed under for some support.......... the metal support just snapped...... due to my 210lbs I guess :lol:
Click to expand...
Oh snap. Literally! Got a pic ?
Was it the seat rails or the frame ?
How did it happen ? Did you hit something ? Land a big drop with all your weight on it ?
 
Thanks Jay. Appreciate the advice.

Didn't realise that the only difference between the MT4/MT2's was the weight, but that's ok. If that's the case then I'll put the MT4's on my Fighter where I'm aiming for lower weight and the MT2's on the Flux where weight doesn't matter. :D

As far as cheaper components etc. Yeah I do hear what your saying, which is why I didn't get Suntour or Zoom forks :lol: I do think these RockShox should be ok for me as they have beefed up stanctions and are mostly steel. I made do with the crappy RST Storms for 3+ years so I don't have super high standards.
I'm also thinking of moving to a 26" wheel up front on the Fighter. That should make up for the loss in suspension travel. :)

Thanks for the tips on doing the fork swap out. I've already got a Cane Creek 40 headset on the Fighter/USD-8. If I get another headset the same I'm guessing it should be a simple swap over onto the new forks and I can use the unused parts on the Alpha.

Cheers
 
The headset fitting usually consists of:

Top half:
Star nut/bolt into fork - stem on.
Top cap
Top bearing - grease
Top bearing cup - grease frame, press into top of the frame*

Bottom half
bearing cup - grease frame, press into bottom of the frame*
Bottom bearing - grease
crown race for the fork (bearing sits on this)**

The cups need to be pressed into the frame - you can do this with threaded stock, large washers (a bit larger than your head tube width in frame) and nuts to match the stock. There are flasher tools, have a look at park tool. Its worth finding out if there's a bike co op near you as I've found they sometimes spend $$ on the unusual tools (like the headset cup installation press) and less on the use and abuse tools (like screwdrivers, spanners etc) which wear out/get nicked.

Crown race needs to be put onto the fork as well. a pipe the right size should be ok to get this on. This the only part that actually attaches to the fork other than the star nut/stem (if not direct mount). The fork itself should slip out the bottom if the star nut and stem are loosened off as they are the only things holding it on (for single crown forks)

These two tasks are the only parts that take unusual tools (I'm assuming you don't need to remove a headset/cups - otherwise you need a flared pipe to remove them with, again, there are tools are out there, but DIY is still pretty possible too). Its a shame your not closer, otherwise you could just use mine! 8)

Actually the trickier part is making sure its the correct headset...
 
Lurkin said:
The cups need to be pressed into the frame - you can do this with threaded stock, large washers (a bit larger than your head tube width in frame) and nuts to match the stock. There are flasher tools,
Click to expand...
There's also a block of wood and a hammer :p

You can totally do this without proper tools. Same deal for any other bike. Pop the headset cups in the freezer for a while and they'll tap straight in easily. Here's a vid I made a while back for a raptor.
https://youtu.be/zkqM1QeARds?t=1m48s
 
Flared pipe. Heres the actual tool http://www.parktool.com/product/head-cup-remover-rt-1

But lets face it, in the absence of a metal pipe to flare and replicate (which is how I've seen the DIY version done before)....
 
Thanks again for all the advice guy's. I realise it kinda doesn't belong in this thread, but since it's relevant to the whole discussion...
I should have looked closer sooner, but glad I did before I pulled the trigger on that Cane Creek 40 head-set. It looks to me like I've already go a head-set on there:
DSC_3289.jpg

DSC_3288.jpg

DSC_3287.jpg

DSC_3286.jpg

No idea on what headset this actually is. Jay did you install it?

So the question is, what else do I need?
It looks like this type of headset doesn't need a crown race. Or am I missing something here.
I think I will still need a top cap, star nut, spacers, and the stem/bars, but apart from that I can't see anything else I still need to install the fork.

Or is that head-set rubbish and I should replace it anyway?

Cheers
 
Wouldn't be amazing to run the trails with your kids on this scooter :?: :D .... Or at least you can tell the wife it's the reason why you bought that 6K e-scooter :mrgreen:
Ride1.jpg


http://www.works-electric.com/
https://vimeo.com/132273005
 
Cowardlyduck said:
So the question is, what else do I need?
It looks like this type of headset doesn't need a crown race. Or am I missing something here.
I think I will still need a top cap, star nut, spacers, and the stem/bars, but apart from that I can't see anything else I still need to install the fork.

Or is that head-set rubbish and I should replace it anyway?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Crown race is a flash description for a spacer that snuggly fits on your fork and matches the profile of the bearing which will sit on it when you install the fork. Fork -> crown race -> bottom bearing -> headtube bottom. I guess you could always see if the top of your fork perfectly matches the profile of your bearing, but it means any wear goes on your fork (read: grinding on it) and your fork (if it doesn't match the bearing profile) could also damage the bearing (I don't think this is a great idea).

I've not purchased one separately before (I've normally bought them as part of the headset) but they are on fleabay? Tricky part will be getting a decent match so it doesn't bind. I would have thought a good fit is required otherwise its likely your feel it when you rotate the handlebars.... I've used mismatched headsets with junk bikes with relative success but then I cared less about the quality of the outcome.

The other headsets I've bought also have a top part to the headset (which covers the top bearing and also creates the shape for the top cap to clamp down on nicely), then a top cap on top of that which the star nut bolt goes through. I.e. you are missing the top part of the headset in addition to requiring a top cap + bolt + star nut.

If Jay didn't install it, perhaps Lawsie knows. Alternatively, undo string, remove bearings and bang the cups out - there's always a chance it will say what it is on it and hopefully you could order (cheaply) parts which match? Having said that the other headsets which are branded all have advertising which is visiable without removal, the cheaper ones off junk bikes typically dont have anything. Normally I'd just buy a new headset altogether but given your on a budget....

[EDIT] if your willing to measure it up I can have a rummage through the parts spares in the garage? If I have one (which there should be at least one) They'll be second hand but free if you want? Up to you.
 
bigbore said:
Wouldn't be amazing to run the trails with your kids on this scooter :?: :D .... Or at least you can tell the wife it's the reason why you bought that 6K e-scooter :mrgreen:
Ride1.jpg


http://www.works-electric.com/
https://vimeo.com/132273005
Click to expand...

Ciao Simone, this looks fun. Like i need to spend more money on ebike or e scooter rides.
 
Lurkin said:
Crown race is a flash description for a spacer that snuggly fits on your fork and matches the profile of the bearing which will sit on it when you install the fork. Fork -> crown race -> bottom bearing -> headtube bottom. I guess you could always see if the top of your fork perfectly matches the profile of your bearing, but it means any wear goes on your fork (read: grinding on it) and your fork (if it doesn't match the bearing profile) could also damage the bearing (I don't think this is a great idea).

I've not purchased one separately before (I've normally bought them as part of the headset) but they are on fleabay? Tricky part will be getting a decent match so it doesn't bind. I would have thought a good fit is required otherwise its likely your feel it when you rotate the handlebars.... I've used mismatched headsets with junk bikes with relative success but then I cared less about the quality of the outcome.

The other headsets I've bought also have a top part to the headset (which covers the top bearing and also creates the shape for the top cap to clamp down on nicely), then a top cap on top of that which the star nut bolt goes through. I.e. you are missing the top part of the headset in addition to requiring a top cap + bolt + star nut.

If Jay didn't install it, perhaps Lawsie knows. Alternatively, undo string, remove bearings and bang the cups out - there's always a chance it will say what it is on it and hopefully you could order (cheaply) parts which match? Having said that the other headsets which are branded all have advertising which is visiable without removal, the cheaper ones off junk bikes typically dont have anything. Normally I'd just buy a new headset altogether but given your on a budget....

[EDIT] if your willing to measure it up I can have a rummage through the parts spares in the garage? If I have one (which there should be at least one) They'll be second hand but free if you want? Up to you.
Click to expand...
Thanks Lurkin.
I went ahead just now and ordered the Cane Creek as I realised it would be messy to shift the race over etc and heaps easier if I use the same headset on both my bikes then the parts are interchangeable. They also had a sale on a headset cup removal tool, so I grabbed one of them for $16 bucks. :)
So now I'm committed to figuring it out and doing it myself. You guy's make it sound easy, so I will just have to see for myself. :)

Cheers
 
Well, my dad accidentally grabbed the throttle on my stealth causing it to land of its left side bending the left crank. I took it off and did the best I could with bending it back in a vice. It definitely feels crooked now.

Where can I source new pedal crank arms?
 
st35326 said:
Well, my dad accidentally grabbed the throttle on my stealth causing it to land of its left side bending the left crank. I took it off and did the best I could with bending it back in a vice. It definitely feels crooked now.

Where can I source new pedal crank arms?
Click to expand...

Stealth stocks them. I tried to get them directly from Sun Tour, no dice, they dont deal with individual sales..
 
robohead said:
Ever seen anybody put the Hurricane seat on a bomber? I got a cracked frame near the seat post. Thinking if it needs repair might as well try something new with it.
Click to expand...

Stealth got back to me. It's for sure a no go on the Hurricane seat on a bomber.
 
robohead said:
robohead said:
Ever seen anybody put the Hurricane seat on a bomber? I got a cracked frame near the seat post. Thinking if it needs repair might as well try something new with it.
Click to expand...

Stealth got back to me. It's for sure a no go on the Hurricane seat on a bomber.
Click to expand...

Ok, what was the reason for that answer. Did they provide any specific reason. If it doesn't fit it can ALWAYS be made to fit.
 
Rix said:
st35326 said:
Well, my dad accidentally grabbed the throttle on my stealth causing it to land of its left side bending the left crank. I took it off and did the best I could with bending it back in a vice. It definitely feels crooked now.

Where can I source new pedal crank arms?
Click to expand...

Stealth stocks them. I tried to get them directly from Sun Tour, no dice, they dont deal with individual sales..
Click to expand...

I've also got a set of spare Bomber cranks in stock if you need, cary a limited range of spares that I can draw down on if needed. Also have some rubber spare, in Razorbacks/CrazyBobs.
 
stritzky said:
robohead said:
robohead said:
Ever seen anybody put the Hurricane seat on a bomber? I got a cracked frame near the seat post. Thinking if it needs repair might as well try something new with it.
Click to expand...

Stealth got back to me. It's for sure a no go on the Hurricane seat on a bomber.
Click to expand...

Ok, what was the reason for that answer. Did they provide any specific reason. If it doesn't fit it can ALWAYS be made to fit.
Click to expand...

I am guessing that Stealth has changed the Hurricane Seat since it's first design. I emailed Stealth about it a couple of years back, I cant remember what the specifics were, but I remember some modifications to the Bomber frame would be needed because of how the seat angled away from the frame and lined up.
 
QuietRush said:
Rix said:
st35326 said:
Well, my dad accidentally grabbed the throttle on my stealth causing it to land of its left side bending the left crank. I took it off and did the best I could with bending it back in a vice. It definitely feels crooked now.

Where can I source new pedal crank arms?
Click to expand...

Stealth stocks them. I tried to get them directly from Sun Tour, no dice, they dont deal with individual sales..
Click to expand...

I've also got a set of spare Bomber cranks in stock if you need, cary a limited range of spares that I can draw down on if needed. Also have some rubber spare, in Razorbacks/CrazyBobs.
Click to expand...

Leave it to QR to come through :D
 
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