Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
Berd
100 µW
It is a USA bike from Luna.
Shipping by Fed Ex freight so you should be able to get one shipped to Canada.
Shipping by Fed Ex freight so you should be able to get one shipped to Canada.
Marksteamnz said:
What do you need to do to get the seat off? It's not obvious which bolts hold the seat on.
Also... just got my moped plates in the mail. It works! It should work as a great cop repellant.
Jonathan1981
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Messages
- 180
hey everyone, this will be a long detailed post regarding my experience from ordering to first test ride. I've attached images also. This will be aimed @ first timers, not so much for experience bike builders.....just going to touch on points that aren't necessarily covered in the manuals regarding tips and tricks, best methods etc.....Second post will be review of bike, test ride, thoughts and commentary.
So after doing the research and reading through the forums here on endless and on the facebook page. I decided it was worth it. I ordered on August 21st and bike arrived today Sept 7th, (I'm in Quebec Canada so it's a long trip). The order process was seemless, Luna is all automated and kept me updated with e-mails through out the process, very fluid/professional experience to deal with. There's a rep close by in MTL that guided me through the entire process(Thanks Seb) . If coming into Canada, it's recommended that you use Fedex as your broker. The bike will eventually arrive at your local Fedex frieght depot and they will call you to arrange a delivery date. In my case I didn't have to call, the day after it arrived they called right away in the morning. You can arrange to go pick it up or they can come to you and drop it off. In my case, I had it dropped off at my place. The bike will be on a pallet and will have 3 metal straps around it, make sure the Van driver doesn't cut those straps (this guy did) because that's what holds the box together. Box weight around 150lbs, however nothing two people can't pick up and carry.....The van had a spare buggy cart and a drop loader which was awesome, we dropped it down to street level and loaded it longways on the buggy cart and I was able to wheel it into the back yard. I also took a few images while the box was in the Van just in case anything was damaged after unboxing I'd have some evidence for a claim etc.
The box looked pretty banged up in the VAN so I was a little concerned, but when I slide the top cover off, I was relieved to see a pretty well packed and bubble padded frame and parts. Also relieved to see everything looked clean and new....refer to the images to see how everything was boxed up and packaged etc.
So I'll just go over a few quick points that I think are important while building the bike:
#1. You're excited yes, but just take a breathe and take things slow, take some images, make sure nothing is damaged and look in all the boxes to make sure everything was included.
#2. DO NOT cut the suspension straps, leave them tied for the whole build, the bike is propped up because the rear wheel is locked into a cardboard cut out and the front wheel is locked into a piece of wood stuck to the floor of the box, it keeps the bike low and not so tippy so you can work on putting things together, getting the wheels on etc.
#3. I left the bike sitting in the box, sans front wheel and worked on setting up the cockpit, so bars, light, throttle, brakes etc. I bought a 3" diety riser bar (highly reccomended) so I had to take everything off of the old bar and put it on the diety, easy stuff, the grips came off fairly easily also. When setting up the front end, be mindful of how the wires are positioned, they interfere with anything like the light etc. refer to my images and others. This might take a few attempts. No need to tighten everything down fully yet, you will adjust brake lever position etc. once you get the bike fully suspended with the pegs on etc.
#4. Then work on putting on the front wheel. Here's the thing, the Maxle nut on the RST killah fork has to be turned clockwise to unscrew it, opposite a normal bolt. Also, the maxle (axle) part actually screws into the other fork leg so don't just try to knock it out right away, unscrew it first. In my case, the maxle was VERY tightly fit into the wood piece...I had to use WD40 and gentle but repeated taps to get it out. Once you remove the maxle, take out the front brake pad insert and bring the front wheel near the bike, pull the entire bike out of the cardboard seating and either have someone hold the front end up, flip the bike upside down or on it's side and place the wheel hub in-line with the fork axles, slide the maxle through, thread it and thread the cap on (remember, counterclockwise direction to tighten in this case).
#5. Now set the fork compression to it's softest setting, 13 clicks clockwise, and have someone compress the forks or stand over the bike and compress them yourself, undo the yellow tie downs (I kept these tie downs instead of cutting them, they're always handy to have) repeat for the rear.
#6. I won't go into detail here as it is in various manuals about how to remove the battery but just open the batt cover with the key, make sure breaker is full left (Off position), pull the terminal connector and 12V harness. Simply slide the battery out and charge it...charging is SO easy it's incredible, just plug the charger in, that's it. It detects the battery and starts charging. The bike will usually ship with 60%-70% charge. Charge the battery to 100%. Wait 10 mins after 100% before using.
#7. While the battery is charging, do a quick over of all the bolts, make sure everything is tight etc. mine came overtorqued so yeah....good but not good..now is a good time to finish tightening down everything in the cockpit to your liking, stand up on the pegs or pedals and get a feel for how far you want the bar forward, how far forward you want the brakes levers rotated etc.
#8. Battery charged, do a brief, non agressive test ride, I stayed on eco for a bit until I was sure everything was working properly, nothing smoking, all bolts tight etc. then I hit sport and let the good the good times roll.
So after doing the research and reading through the forums here on endless and on the facebook page. I decided it was worth it. I ordered on August 21st and bike arrived today Sept 7th, (I'm in Quebec Canada so it's a long trip). The order process was seemless, Luna is all automated and kept me updated with e-mails through out the process, very fluid/professional experience to deal with. There's a rep close by in MTL that guided me through the entire process(Thanks Seb) . If coming into Canada, it's recommended that you use Fedex as your broker. The bike will eventually arrive at your local Fedex frieght depot and they will call you to arrange a delivery date. In my case I didn't have to call, the day after it arrived they called right away in the morning. You can arrange to go pick it up or they can come to you and drop it off. In my case, I had it dropped off at my place. The bike will be on a pallet and will have 3 metal straps around it, make sure the Van driver doesn't cut those straps (this guy did) because that's what holds the box together. Box weight around 150lbs, however nothing two people can't pick up and carry.....The van had a spare buggy cart and a drop loader which was awesome, we dropped it down to street level and loaded it longways on the buggy cart and I was able to wheel it into the back yard. I also took a few images while the box was in the Van just in case anything was damaged after unboxing I'd have some evidence for a claim etc.
The box looked pretty banged up in the VAN so I was a little concerned, but when I slide the top cover off, I was relieved to see a pretty well packed and bubble padded frame and parts. Also relieved to see everything looked clean and new....refer to the images to see how everything was boxed up and packaged etc.
So I'll just go over a few quick points that I think are important while building the bike:
#1. You're excited yes, but just take a breathe and take things slow, take some images, make sure nothing is damaged and look in all the boxes to make sure everything was included.
#2. DO NOT cut the suspension straps, leave them tied for the whole build, the bike is propped up because the rear wheel is locked into a cardboard cut out and the front wheel is locked into a piece of wood stuck to the floor of the box, it keeps the bike low and not so tippy so you can work on putting things together, getting the wheels on etc.
#3. I left the bike sitting in the box, sans front wheel and worked on setting up the cockpit, so bars, light, throttle, brakes etc. I bought a 3" diety riser bar (highly reccomended) so I had to take everything off of the old bar and put it on the diety, easy stuff, the grips came off fairly easily also. When setting up the front end, be mindful of how the wires are positioned, they interfere with anything like the light etc. refer to my images and others. This might take a few attempts. No need to tighten everything down fully yet, you will adjust brake lever position etc. once you get the bike fully suspended with the pegs on etc.
#4. Then work on putting on the front wheel. Here's the thing, the Maxle nut on the RST killah fork has to be turned clockwise to unscrew it, opposite a normal bolt. Also, the maxle (axle) part actually screws into the other fork leg so don't just try to knock it out right away, unscrew it first. In my case, the maxle was VERY tightly fit into the wood piece...I had to use WD40 and gentle but repeated taps to get it out. Once you remove the maxle, take out the front brake pad insert and bring the front wheel near the bike, pull the entire bike out of the cardboard seating and either have someone hold the front end up, flip the bike upside down or on it's side and place the wheel hub in-line with the fork axles, slide the maxle through, thread it and thread the cap on (remember, counterclockwise direction to tighten in this case).
#5. Now set the fork compression to it's softest setting, 13 clicks clockwise, and have someone compress the forks or stand over the bike and compress them yourself, undo the yellow tie downs (I kept these tie downs instead of cutting them, they're always handy to have) repeat for the rear.
#6. I won't go into detail here as it is in various manuals about how to remove the battery but just open the batt cover with the key, make sure breaker is full left (Off position), pull the terminal connector and 12V harness. Simply slide the battery out and charge it...charging is SO easy it's incredible, just plug the charger in, that's it. It detects the battery and starts charging. The bike will usually ship with 60%-70% charge. Charge the battery to 100%. Wait 10 mins after 100% before using.
#7. While the battery is charging, do a quick over of all the bolts, make sure everything is tight etc. mine came overtorqued so yeah....good but not good..now is a good time to finish tightening down everything in the cockpit to your liking, stand up on the pegs or pedals and get a feel for how far you want the bar forward, how far forward you want the brakes levers rotated etc.
#8. Battery charged, do a brief, non agressive test ride, I stayed on eco for a bit until I was sure everything was working properly, nothing smoking, all bolts tight etc. then I hit sport and let the good the good times roll.
Attachments
Jonathan1981
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Messages
- 180
Alright, so as promised, a long and detailed preliminary review and my thoughts on the bike itself, the quality, the ride etc. Please note, this is a preliminary review after receiving the bike just a few days ago. I will do a mid term follow up review at a later time.
First, a little background. So I'd say I'm a mountain biker first and foremost, I've been riding MTB since my teens, got into the downhill craze, got into dirt biking also. Just a total bike guy. I loved both worlds but at the time you either had fast, loud, and heavy OR light, nimble and pedal powered. I started experimenting with motorcycle frame building in early 2000's and havn't stopped for the last 18 years
I'm the dirt force motorcycles guy...if anyone was wondering.
Wow time flies... anyway. I ended up building a few light weight prototype frames using 4 stroke gas engines, improving on these designs until I had something that I was satisfied with.... the ultimate goal was to design and build something like the Suron frame, forged or cast aluminum but that's tough on a backyard budget. Although no cast alum frame, my bikes were very innovative and SUPER fun to ride, engineered as good as could be with the available tech at my disposal. 160cc, 13T/48T sprockets, these things can climb a wall. 26"F/24"R wheels, 12" sus all around. 80kph top speed, 150lbs, 1 gallon fuel tank, 120+ Km range, hard riding. So I'm coming into this Surron experience with quite a bit of knowledge and experience in cutting edge, light weight frame design and proper corresponding race suspension setup for said frame/context. Did I mention all this experimentation with frame design lead me into CAD design, which is what I do now full time, for instance, I worked on the design of the new twin shifters for Box components. So anyway, I'll be diving deep into this Surron light bee critique.
Let's take a look at some of the components and then I'll give some general thoughts.
PRICE:
For the price, the Surron light bee is a very good value. The first notable thing of quality is the frame design and construction. Their frames are obviously designed with CAD and are use cold forged frame members. This sort of frame manufacturing technique lends itself to intricate and sculpted shapes, ease of welding and assembly and is something you find on the bigger more expensive motorcycle brands out there. This lends to a really high end, lightweight yet solid frame that looks aesthetically appealing and looks and feels expensive and professional. The frame members are smooth on the outside for appearance and pocketed with re-inforcement ribbing on the inside for weight reduction, lots of detail and engineering went into this and I'm sure Surron used FEA analysis to troubleshoot stress points and strength of frame members. For I guy like myself, the frame alone was worth the cost. When this tech becomes obsolete, I'm going to keep these frames forever and put them on my wall. They are literally a work of art. Props to the industrial design and engineering team. I Wish I spoke Mandarin, I'd love to chat with them.
Electrical componentry:
I'm more of a gas guy, so not too experienced with electronics and batteries so I'm just going by feel here but regarding electrical components, all looks and feels VERY high quality, as echoed in other reviews. Lot's of proprietary stuff, not just duct taped together, feels very finished. The battery pack is VERY professionally made, proprietary casing, high end connectors, everything was tight and has a high quality feel not unlike what you would find in the power tools or e-mtb industry...The battery pack is one of my favorite components as it just feels so futuristic when you pull it out with the handle (total fuel cell style) sci-fi stuff. Same goes for the wiring, the speedo is basic in it's casing design but does the job, looks fairly solid and the coolest part is that it lights up at night really bright! In the future, let's see some more luxurious speedo designs, mabye something I'll have a chance to work on
Plastics and body panels:
I was really impressed with the plastic parts, the battery cover is made from thick ABS with a matte finish, it feels really solid and not flimsy which is what you want for a part in that area. The rear fender is...well......very short...lol, but again, good quality, it's shiny black ABS, descent thickness to it. Will hold up well. The belt cover is cute and a nice touch. There are some custom plastic pieces on the front that bridge the gaps between controller and frame. Nothing special but still, custom molded parts to help with aesthetics never hurts.
Drive train:
Drive train parts, sprocket, hubs and bearings etc. all quality stuff, they look well made and everything feels very solid, no knocks or weird noises. The 420 chain should be ok but I did upgrade to 428 on my gas bikes due to breaking 420, but I think that's because I used low budget 420 chains, gas bike can hit pretty hard with clutch dumps also...
The Fork(RST killah):
When I first bought this, I was worried that cost was kept low by underspecing components, but I'm really impressed with the solidity of the RST killah forks, they do the job quite well. 200mm of travel, 13 clicks of compression adjustment and rebound adjustment as well. Sure, there is always better out there and no match for the 11.8" showa Moto fork I use on my custom dirt bike builds but it's really all about context here, this is a smaller bike and I think they will do the job. *Note, the forks come stock with the compression set very low so they can be compressed for shipping. I found that they would bottom during some jibbing sessions. I'm 150lbs, I set them to full compression and it helped a lot but there is not much foregiveness...I don't think this bike could be jumped heavily with this current setup....I think with some revalving and stiffer springs, this 8" fork could be setup for jumping though. Experimentation is required. Suspension is so crucial, it can make or break a bike. Quick aside...on my first prototype gas bike builds I used 8" travel Monster T forks with enduro springs and non linked, pit bike shock in the rear. The bike did weigh 150lbs wet (more than this bike) but I found it was just not enough suspension. My re-engineered versions used stock Show fork off a CR85 (11.8" travel) and a CR85 rear shock/w linkage system and that suspension setup alone, basically made a whole different bike altogether...the bike woke up and became "usable"...stuck to the ground like glue, over roots and rocks, super jumpable, tons more fun. I think this will be the same for the Suron, experimentation with suspension setups will be required, depending on weight and riding style. I do feel that given the context and size, weight of the bike, 8" travel should be enough... just a matter of tweaking springs and valves...I think 12" would just get too sloshy for a bike of this size. Right now, I feel the suspension setup, including rear shock is good value for the money but could be optioned up in the future..
The brakes:
Some people complaining about the brakes, I'm used to never maintaining my brakes so I'm always pulling on 1 inches of squishiness and basically not stopping lol... so to me, these brakes seem fine but time will tell how well they hold up. Many people are bleeding them out of box to get better performance or just outright replacing them with 4 pot downhill brakes. I'm sure this will be an upgrade in the future for me.
**Note:
The breaks are linked to sensors that cut throttle power when applied. I feel this is good for a novice, casual rider who will not be jibbing with the bike but this can be down right dangerous for anyone more advanced riders who will be jibbing and tricking. I had a scare where I was testing sport mode out and lifting the front wheel up to drop off a ledge...I went to give it throttle and didn't have any because I was feathering the breaks coming up to the ledge with speed! not good.
Other components:
Foot pegs
One thing that is not so good are the foot pegs, they're not grippy enough and too thin, not confidence inspiring but these are disposable parts basically, easily modded out later. If you're going to minimize cost somewhere, foot pegs is where to do it, so in reality, I applaud Suron for a wise business decision
Headset issues??
From my research, people are saying the stock headset bearings on the lower cup become loose. Hope makes aftermarket replacement headset for this, many people are doing this upgrade. Mine is on it's way. BUT, so far, I havn't felt anything go wrong with the stock headset, still feels solid as a rock, so I'll probably just leave it on for now. PS. the hope headset you need is top cup - ZS44/28.6 type 2 and bottom cup ZS55/40 type G.. along with the 1.5-1 1/8" reducer. They have them instock right now at chainreactioncycles.com
Handlebars
The stock bars will do the trick for the casual rider, it's not really the quality of the bar that's the issue, it's more to do with the bend/rise...... if you're into tricking and jibbing you'll DEFINATELY want to get a bar with a taller bend/rise. Most people are swapping for a 3" bend. I put a 3" riser bar by diety and it feels GREAT! just about right.
The seat
I like the seat, it does the job, it's a little on the firm side but whatever, this isn't a lounge couch, I'm up out of saddle bust'n tricks half the time so no biggy.... I do like the width of it though, descent support width wise. Get's my approval, easily upgradeable later also.
Headlight
Comes stock with a good quality headlight, throws a good amount of light, the only downside is the beam is fairly wide and narrow but I'm ok with it for now. I'd probably need to experiment with something else to really see the difference. This is something MANY people upgrade very easily for little cost. You can get 3000+ lumen light bars on ebay for super cheap. Plug and play installation.
Wheel set/tires
Cute little wheel/rim set with descent tires. The rims are moto quality rims, very similar to what you would find on a CR85 big wheel (front wheel)....these rims/tires will be ok for the casual rider. Might need some upgrading for more experienced riders. Many people are putting larger, softer trials tires on the rear, 26" wheels on the front. Choose your poison. As for me, I have all that stuff on my custom light weight gas bike so I sort of like the different feel of the small 24" moto rim format, they feel very solid. I'll probably just keep them on for now.
From my research, I had a rough idea of what to expect with this amazing little bike. But there is nothing like getting your hands on the real thing. It's very difficult to give an opinion because everything is always dependent on context. OVERALL. I would echo the sentiments of most reviewers out there, for the price, this bike is VERY good quality and totally worth it. Also, there is a growing network of support, which is a HUGE factor when making a purchase in this market, the question always is, will this company be around in 2 years from now, will I still be able to get service and replacement parts and with Surron, YES. this is a disruptive company and bike design, many people have bought these and I'm 95% sure support will continue for years and years down the road, including new parts, new bike designs, cooler, better replacement parts etc. Even if not directly from the company themselves, there are plenty of third party, aftermarket parts showing up in the market place.
super turn key:
I think one of the coolest factors about the Surron Light bee is just how turn key it is for the average person. I have a friend who is really into pedal bikes, loves cars but not huge into motorcycles or dirt bikes....the Surron is going to fill that gap. It's going to bring many people into motorcycling that are just not necessarily "farm" enough for a gas dirt bike.
is it worth it?:
Let me be clear on this, out of the box, the Surron is impressively good to go, with only a few parts that possibly would need swap out if desired, as described above. You order it, you wait a few weeks, it comes to your door, you spend one hour turning a few allen keys while your battery is charging and you're out on the trails....doesn't get much better than that really.
I think for the more advanced e-bike riders and builders out there, although impressed, we realize it could use a few part swaps and upgrades and although very much a polished finished product, there is still always work to do. I love this bike through and through, I can tweak settings, change parts and design components for this bike and that will be fun.....BUTTTTTTT the one thing that keeps bothering me about it, after getting my hands on it........is the size. It's a small bike, just didn't think it was that small. Maybe I'm used to 26"/24" bigger suspension and frame on my custom gas bikes but this is smaller than I thought it would be. I don't think it's a deal breaker, hasn't lead to buyers remorse....but it makes me wish there was an adult version of this, scale the frame by 10%, slightly larger battery, 26" wheels, 10" suspension front and back......that's the bike for the NA market!
In terms of ride quality, power, torque etc. I only had a little ride time on it, I will go out again tomorrow but so far so good. It rides with a very planted and solid feeling, the center of gravity is fairly well distributed. It's light and flickable. One thing is, it being so small, it is easy to touch the ground so that's a nice benefit in squirrly terrain. I'm 150lbs and on flat, "EP" (eco) mode was more than enough until I came to any sort of incline...so I found myself staying in "EP" (eco) on the road and flipping it into "sport" mode for any hills, it's a great way to save battery (and good opportunity for a future mod, auto sensing switch between low/high power). In Sport mode, this bike is no joke, you can go scary fast on it and is a full blown motorcycle (def wear a GOOD helmet and ride safe). Range seemed to be ok. I had it charged to 98% and it dropped to 94% with some spirited neighborhood riding. I noticed that in "sport" mode, if you flog it like you would a gas bike, it does seem to chew battery capacity a little more than "EP" mode.
The one thing I wouldn't do is compare it to a gas MX bike like a KTM350 etc, which it seems like a lot of people are doing. Two, very different bikes, very different technologies and purposes. Gas MX bikes can take a MAJOR beating, go a lot farther but are much larger and heavier, they do well in sand, tracks, big trails, fire roads etc. not so good for tight MTB style trails, single track, forest riding etc. With the Surron, not so good in sand, just doesn't have the battery capacity for it, not so good for wide open, rough ATV trails unless you put on better tires etc. No, the Surron light bee is the ultimate, low maintenance, no worries play bike. It excels in the forest, tight single track, MTB style (don't ride mtb only trails), small MX style trails, light sandy area's, area's close to town and development, in urban settings, up stairs, down stairs, jibbing at the park, jibbing in your backyard, running through your neighbors' flower garden etc. so ideally you'd have both, but if you had to choose between the two, you really need to think about your lifestyle, your location and your riding preferences. I live in a developing neighborhood so the Surron light bee comes out ahead on my list because there's less noise.
Anyway, overall, a very capable bike, nice throttle response for both modes, overall a blast to ride. I will get some more ride time in and provide updates.
A few other cool tid bits about the bike not usually mentioned...
- The USB port glows blue at night
- The speedo is super clear and lit well at night
- The horn is STUPID loud, wake your neighbors' up at night!
- "EP" (Eco) mode is actually more impressive than portrayed on reviews and video. On flat smooth surface, can have fun with that alone.
- Charging is stupid easy, no buttons, just plug and it in and it will start charging
- the throttle is actually a real moto throttle that uses a real cable to potentiometer box
- The kick stand has a sensor, if it's down the bike won't work
- First couple rides I always forgot to flip the breaker switch (air switch) when replacing battery
- The bike comes with graphics for the battery but NO ONE installs them lol
- The bike comes with a cute little front number plate but NO ONE installs them lol
First, a little background. So I'd say I'm a mountain biker first and foremost, I've been riding MTB since my teens, got into the downhill craze, got into dirt biking also. Just a total bike guy. I loved both worlds but at the time you either had fast, loud, and heavy OR light, nimble and pedal powered. I started experimenting with motorcycle frame building in early 2000's and havn't stopped for the last 18 years
I'm the dirt force motorcycles guy...if anyone was wondering.Wow time flies... anyway. I ended up building a few light weight prototype frames using 4 stroke gas engines, improving on these designs until I had something that I was satisfied with.... the ultimate goal was to design and build something like the Suron frame, forged or cast aluminum but that's tough on a backyard budget. Although no cast alum frame, my bikes were very innovative and SUPER fun to ride, engineered as good as could be with the available tech at my disposal. 160cc, 13T/48T sprockets, these things can climb a wall. 26"F/24"R wheels, 12" sus all around. 80kph top speed, 150lbs, 1 gallon fuel tank, 120+ Km range, hard riding. So I'm coming into this Surron experience with quite a bit of knowledge and experience in cutting edge, light weight frame design and proper corresponding race suspension setup for said frame/context. Did I mention all this experimentation with frame design lead me into CAD design, which is what I do now full time, for instance, I worked on the design of the new twin shifters for Box components. So anyway, I'll be diving deep into this Surron light bee critique.
Let's take a look at some of the components and then I'll give some general thoughts.
PRICE:
For the price, the Surron light bee is a very good value. The first notable thing of quality is the frame design and construction. Their frames are obviously designed with CAD and are use cold forged frame members. This sort of frame manufacturing technique lends itself to intricate and sculpted shapes, ease of welding and assembly and is something you find on the bigger more expensive motorcycle brands out there. This lends to a really high end, lightweight yet solid frame that looks aesthetically appealing and looks and feels expensive and professional. The frame members are smooth on the outside for appearance and pocketed with re-inforcement ribbing on the inside for weight reduction, lots of detail and engineering went into this and I'm sure Surron used FEA analysis to troubleshoot stress points and strength of frame members. For I guy like myself, the frame alone was worth the cost. When this tech becomes obsolete, I'm going to keep these frames forever and put them on my wall. They are literally a work of art. Props to the industrial design and engineering team. I Wish I spoke Mandarin, I'd love to chat with them.
Electrical componentry:
I'm more of a gas guy, so not too experienced with electronics and batteries so I'm just going by feel here but regarding electrical components, all looks and feels VERY high quality, as echoed in other reviews. Lot's of proprietary stuff, not just duct taped together, feels very finished. The battery pack is VERY professionally made, proprietary casing, high end connectors, everything was tight and has a high quality feel not unlike what you would find in the power tools or e-mtb industry...The battery pack is one of my favorite components as it just feels so futuristic when you pull it out with the handle (total fuel cell style) sci-fi stuff. Same goes for the wiring, the speedo is basic in it's casing design but does the job, looks fairly solid and the coolest part is that it lights up at night really bright! In the future, let's see some more luxurious speedo designs, mabye something I'll have a chance to work on
Plastics and body panels:
I was really impressed with the plastic parts, the battery cover is made from thick ABS with a matte finish, it feels really solid and not flimsy which is what you want for a part in that area. The rear fender is...well......very short...lol, but again, good quality, it's shiny black ABS, descent thickness to it. Will hold up well. The belt cover is cute and a nice touch. There are some custom plastic pieces on the front that bridge the gaps between controller and frame. Nothing special but still, custom molded parts to help with aesthetics never hurts.
Drive train:
Drive train parts, sprocket, hubs and bearings etc. all quality stuff, they look well made and everything feels very solid, no knocks or weird noises. The 420 chain should be ok but I did upgrade to 428 on my gas bikes due to breaking 420, but I think that's because I used low budget 420 chains, gas bike can hit pretty hard with clutch dumps also...
The Fork(RST killah):
When I first bought this, I was worried that cost was kept low by underspecing components, but I'm really impressed with the solidity of the RST killah forks, they do the job quite well. 200mm of travel, 13 clicks of compression adjustment and rebound adjustment as well. Sure, there is always better out there and no match for the 11.8" showa Moto fork I use on my custom dirt bike builds but it's really all about context here, this is a smaller bike and I think they will do the job. *Note, the forks come stock with the compression set very low so they can be compressed for shipping. I found that they would bottom during some jibbing sessions. I'm 150lbs, I set them to full compression and it helped a lot but there is not much foregiveness...I don't think this bike could be jumped heavily with this current setup....I think with some revalving and stiffer springs, this 8" fork could be setup for jumping though. Experimentation is required. Suspension is so crucial, it can make or break a bike. Quick aside...on my first prototype gas bike builds I used 8" travel Monster T forks with enduro springs and non linked, pit bike shock in the rear. The bike did weigh 150lbs wet (more than this bike) but I found it was just not enough suspension. My re-engineered versions used stock Show fork off a CR85 (11.8" travel) and a CR85 rear shock/w linkage system and that suspension setup alone, basically made a whole different bike altogether...the bike woke up and became "usable"...stuck to the ground like glue, over roots and rocks, super jumpable, tons more fun. I think this will be the same for the Suron, experimentation with suspension setups will be required, depending on weight and riding style. I do feel that given the context and size, weight of the bike, 8" travel should be enough... just a matter of tweaking springs and valves...I think 12" would just get too sloshy for a bike of this size. Right now, I feel the suspension setup, including rear shock is good value for the money but could be optioned up in the future..
The brakes:
Some people complaining about the brakes, I'm used to never maintaining my brakes so I'm always pulling on 1 inches of squishiness and basically not stopping lol... so to me, these brakes seem fine but time will tell how well they hold up. Many people are bleeding them out of box to get better performance or just outright replacing them with 4 pot downhill brakes. I'm sure this will be an upgrade in the future for me.
**Note:
The breaks are linked to sensors that cut throttle power when applied. I feel this is good for a novice, casual rider who will not be jibbing with the bike but this can be down right dangerous for anyone more advanced riders who will be jibbing and tricking. I had a scare where I was testing sport mode out and lifting the front wheel up to drop off a ledge...I went to give it throttle and didn't have any because I was feathering the breaks coming up to the ledge with speed! not good.
Other components:
Foot pegs
One thing that is not so good are the foot pegs, they're not grippy enough and too thin, not confidence inspiring but these are disposable parts basically, easily modded out later. If you're going to minimize cost somewhere, foot pegs is where to do it, so in reality, I applaud Suron for a wise business decision
Headset issues??
From my research, people are saying the stock headset bearings on the lower cup become loose. Hope makes aftermarket replacement headset for this, many people are doing this upgrade. Mine is on it's way. BUT, so far, I havn't felt anything go wrong with the stock headset, still feels solid as a rock, so I'll probably just leave it on for now. PS. the hope headset you need is top cup - ZS44/28.6 type 2 and bottom cup ZS55/40 type G.. along with the 1.5-1 1/8" reducer. They have them instock right now at chainreactioncycles.com
Handlebars
The stock bars will do the trick for the casual rider, it's not really the quality of the bar that's the issue, it's more to do with the bend/rise...... if you're into tricking and jibbing you'll DEFINATELY want to get a bar with a taller bend/rise. Most people are swapping for a 3" bend. I put a 3" riser bar by diety and it feels GREAT! just about right.
The seat
I like the seat, it does the job, it's a little on the firm side but whatever, this isn't a lounge couch, I'm up out of saddle bust'n tricks half the time so no biggy.... I do like the width of it though, descent support width wise. Get's my approval, easily upgradeable later also.
Headlight
Comes stock with a good quality headlight, throws a good amount of light, the only downside is the beam is fairly wide and narrow but I'm ok with it for now. I'd probably need to experiment with something else to really see the difference. This is something MANY people upgrade very easily for little cost. You can get 3000+ lumen light bars on ebay for super cheap. Plug and play installation.
Wheel set/tires
Cute little wheel/rim set with descent tires. The rims are moto quality rims, very similar to what you would find on a CR85 big wheel (front wheel)....these rims/tires will be ok for the casual rider. Might need some upgrading for more experienced riders. Many people are putting larger, softer trials tires on the rear, 26" wheels on the front. Choose your poison. As for me, I have all that stuff on my custom light weight gas bike so I sort of like the different feel of the small 24" moto rim format, they feel very solid. I'll probably just keep them on for now.
From my research, I had a rough idea of what to expect with this amazing little bike. But there is nothing like getting your hands on the real thing. It's very difficult to give an opinion because everything is always dependent on context. OVERALL. I would echo the sentiments of most reviewers out there, for the price, this bike is VERY good quality and totally worth it. Also, there is a growing network of support, which is a HUGE factor when making a purchase in this market, the question always is, will this company be around in 2 years from now, will I still be able to get service and replacement parts and with Surron, YES. this is a disruptive company and bike design, many people have bought these and I'm 95% sure support will continue for years and years down the road, including new parts, new bike designs, cooler, better replacement parts etc. Even if not directly from the company themselves, there are plenty of third party, aftermarket parts showing up in the market place.
super turn key:
I think one of the coolest factors about the Surron Light bee is just how turn key it is for the average person. I have a friend who is really into pedal bikes, loves cars but not huge into motorcycles or dirt bikes....the Surron is going to fill that gap. It's going to bring many people into motorcycling that are just not necessarily "farm" enough for a gas dirt bike
.is it worth it?:
Let me be clear on this, out of the box, the Surron is impressively good to go, with only a few parts that possibly would need swap out if desired, as described above. You order it, you wait a few weeks, it comes to your door, you spend one hour turning a few allen keys while your battery is charging and you're out on the trails....doesn't get much better than that really.
I think for the more advanced e-bike riders and builders out there, although impressed, we realize it could use a few part swaps and upgrades and although very much a polished finished product, there is still always work to do. I love this bike through and through, I can tweak settings, change parts and design components for this bike and that will be fun.....BUTTTTTTT the one thing that keeps bothering me about it, after getting my hands on it........is the size. It's a small bike, just didn't think it was that small. Maybe I'm used to 26"/24" bigger suspension and frame on my custom gas bikes but this is smaller than I thought it would be. I don't think it's a deal breaker, hasn't lead to buyers remorse....but it makes me wish there was an adult version of this, scale the frame by 10%, slightly larger battery, 26" wheels, 10" suspension front and back......that's the bike for the NA market!
In terms of ride quality, power, torque etc. I only had a little ride time on it, I will go out again tomorrow but so far so good. It rides with a very planted and solid feeling, the center of gravity is fairly well distributed. It's light and flickable. One thing is, it being so small, it is easy to touch the ground so that's a nice benefit in squirrly terrain. I'm 150lbs and on flat, "EP" (eco) mode was more than enough until I came to any sort of incline...so I found myself staying in "EP" (eco) on the road and flipping it into "sport" mode for any hills, it's a great way to save battery (and good opportunity for a future mod, auto sensing switch between low/high power). In Sport mode, this bike is no joke, you can go scary fast on it and is a full blown motorcycle (def wear a GOOD helmet and ride safe). Range seemed to be ok. I had it charged to 98% and it dropped to 94% with some spirited neighborhood riding. I noticed that in "sport" mode, if you flog it like you would a gas bike, it does seem to chew battery capacity a little more than "EP" mode.
The one thing I wouldn't do is compare it to a gas MX bike like a KTM350 etc, which it seems like a lot of people are doing. Two, very different bikes, very different technologies and purposes. Gas MX bikes can take a MAJOR beating, go a lot farther but are much larger and heavier, they do well in sand, tracks, big trails, fire roads etc. not so good for tight MTB style trails, single track, forest riding etc. With the Surron, not so good in sand, just doesn't have the battery capacity for it, not so good for wide open, rough ATV trails unless you put on better tires etc. No, the Surron light bee is the ultimate, low maintenance, no worries play bike. It excels in the forest, tight single track, MTB style (don't ride mtb only trails), small MX style trails, light sandy area's, area's close to town and development, in urban settings, up stairs, down stairs, jibbing at the park, jibbing in your backyard, running through your neighbors' flower garden etc. so ideally you'd have both, but if you had to choose between the two, you really need to think about your lifestyle, your location and your riding preferences. I live in a developing neighborhood so the Surron light bee comes out ahead on my list because there's less noise.
Anyway, overall, a very capable bike, nice throttle response for both modes, overall a blast to ride. I will get some more ride time in and provide updates.
A few other cool tid bits about the bike not usually mentioned...
- The USB port glows blue at night
- The speedo is super clear and lit well at night
- The horn is STUPID loud, wake your neighbors' up at night!
- "EP" (Eco) mode is actually more impressive than portrayed on reviews and video. On flat smooth surface, can have fun with that alone.
- Charging is stupid easy, no buttons, just plug and it in and it will start charging
- the throttle is actually a real moto throttle that uses a real cable to potentiometer box
- The kick stand has a sensor, if it's down the bike won't work
- First couple rides I always forgot to flip the breaker switch (air switch) when replacing battery
- The bike comes with graphics for the battery but NO ONE installs them lol
- The bike comes with a cute little front number plate but NO ONE installs them lol
Marksteamnz
10 mW
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2017
- Messages
- 25
"What do you need to do to get the seat off? It's not obvious which bolts hold the seat on."
It looks like you can unbolt the whole assembly by removing the 4 internal hex large head chrome bolts on the alloy seat support. You can't, there are other bits attached to the seat support, plus the rear light cable. Bother
Now it is just a pain.
There are 2 nuts (10mm spanner) with large washers on the underside at the front of the seat . Up above the shock. These are partly obscured by some of the plastics. With a short 10mm open end spanner undo them working a couple of turns on one and then the other. They will fall off eventually as you gently lift the seat front up.
After lifting the front of the seat up I could see 2 more nuts holding the rear of the seat in. You need a powerful small narrow beam torch mini maglight or similar.
It looks like the seat should slide back and unclip but no such luck for me, rear bolts allowed no sliding.
Having got to the #uck it moment I measured as accurately as possible and cut two holes in the plastic with the tip of a high power soldering (yeah you guys spell it wrong) iron. Holes are just big enough for a socket and after the last 2 nuts were off I cleaned them up with a counter sink drill pushed right through. When I reassemble the seat they will be plugged with rubber grommets and silicone sealant
It looks like you can unbolt the whole assembly by removing the 4 internal hex large head chrome bolts on the alloy seat support. You can't, there are other bits attached to the seat support, plus the rear light cable. Bother
Now it is just a pain.
There are 2 nuts (10mm spanner) with large washers on the underside at the front of the seat . Up above the shock. These are partly obscured by some of the plastics. With a short 10mm open end spanner undo them working a couple of turns on one and then the other. They will fall off eventually as you gently lift the seat front up.
After lifting the front of the seat up I could see 2 more nuts holding the rear of the seat in. You need a powerful small narrow beam torch mini maglight or similar.
It looks like the seat should slide back and unclip but no such luck for me, rear bolts allowed no sliding.
Having got to the #uck it moment I measured as accurately as possible and cut two holes in the plastic with the tip of a high power soldering (yeah you guys spell it wrong) iron. Holes are just big enough for a socket and after the last 2 nuts were off I cleaned them up with a counter sink drill pushed right through. When I reassemble the seat they will be plugged with rubber grommets and silicone sealant
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
Jonathan1981 said:
Nice write up Johnny81. The other thing you can do is get a high quality 420 pitch chain and one of Motomoto's 52T or 55T rear sprockets. If body weight is under 210#, go with the 52T if over, go with the 55T. This simple mod really wakes these machines up, and doesn't take much away from top speed. Again nice review and writ up. BTW, just curious about your personally designed machines, kind of sounds like "FX Bikes" stuff, can you PM me, or post a picture of one of your builds?
Allex
100 MW
Offroader said:
When geometry of the fork is screwed you can tune them up again by sending them to professionals.
I had my Zoch with cross brace tuned in, all models from 2013 have stiction problems, even when new - this when they outsourced the labour to China into SR suntour factory.
Anyway after the tune and alignment of the legs it was a dream fork!
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
I had the same issue with the zochs, specifically 2015-2017 models, they all sucked bad with stiction issues. Anyway, I still have one fork that I was going to toss in the trash, you think it would be worth the money to send in for a revalve? I have had good forks revalved and resprung and like them, but they were decent to begin with and didn't have the stiction issues the zochs have/had.
Jonathan1981
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Messages
- 180
Rix said:
Thanks buddy,
Yeah for sure, can play with rear sprocket sizing no doubt... I actually bought a 55T from Kim, but have just been testing the bike all stock and well..... from what I can tell, @ 155lbs, I might not even need it the 55T. I'm pretty satisfied with torque on hill climbs and even lifting the front wheel sometimes so I imagine the 55T might makes things dicy for jibbing and tricking (aka unintended flips).... I'll give it try though and report back.
Regarding the gas bike, yep, FX bikes is what got me started into this 15 years ago.
Here's a pic of my gas bikes,
http://www.dirtforcemotorcycles.com/gallery.html
I built a few and sold a few over the years. Most of the images there are of the second model design, so I called it DHX2.0. Culmination of 10 years of research so it's geo and sus setup is about as good as it gets....full on adult sized bike. Frames made by hand...
if you scroll through, you'll see the original prototype using the Monster forks (with enduro springs) and straight connection, pit bike rear shock, that setup was not enough, bike bottom all the time and wasn't jump-able. Switching to the CR85 shock setup changed the game completely...made the bike WAY more playful and capable. I've never looked back or needed to re-think the suspension. That setup was the PERFECT setup for that style of bike/frame design.
in 2016 I started designing DHX3.0 with CAD, a really innovative frame design, that's still in progress but coming along very nicely. Similar to the Suron in it's aesthetic, it's a VERY polished and finished design. Looks just like something out of a Honda factory, with some cool bells and whistles thrown in. It's designed to be electric start also. Just wish I could show images and my 3D mock up, I have tons of them, but it's just not the right time....
BUT
if you look here and scroll down, you'll see some sneak peak images of the 3.0
That bike is going to be INSANE!https://www.facebook.com/DirtForceMotorcycles/
Allex
100 MW
Rix said:
The problem with all them that have stiction issues is that the bushings could be too tight, they revalve them so they open up a tad more. Next issue is geometry, some forks have to wide of a gap where the axle is so when you clamp the wheel - you change the geometry and they start to stick. Rest is overall geometry of the fork that might need to be reworked.
Problem is, I dont have any that could do it here. Real masters are in US or in Moscow.
Ending up sending it to these guys:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XFppyFd8Rg
Cost was 120USD for the labor, but then you need to consider shipping as well.
The end result is amazing for sure!
Marksteamnz said:
Thanks for posting that. Very helpful.
I figured out it's not too hard to pull the little plastic rivet clips out along the side of the plastic inner fender. Once you get the 6 clips out, the plastic can bend down enough to get access with a wrench.
I used a very small straight bladed screwdriver to pop up the heads on the clips.
Once the head is out, use the screwdriver to pry out the body part. It's a two piece clip.
Once those are out, you can get to the seat nuts pretty easy.
The clips look like this when out:
Well. After deliberating for a while, I finally received my bike a couple of days ago 
(Had to wait a little longer as they told me there was an orange option!) Took the bike as off road as you can get where I live and the bike was fantastic (I'll try and attach a couple of pictures). However, I also rode on road (to and from work ~12km each way) and at higher speeds (55/60kph+) the motor starts 'pulsing' a bit 
What might be causing this? My local specialist is away at the moment, so I thought I'd ask on here (I'm constantly amazed at the amount of knowledge on here: one of the reasons I made the purchase!) The bike is the X Model; full Chinese spec. Thanks for any ideas 
View attachment 2
(Had to wait a little longer as they told me there was an orange option!) Took the bike as off road as you can get where I live and the bike was fantastic (I'll try and attach a couple of pictures). However, I also rode on road (to and from work ~12km each way) and at higher speeds (55/60kph+) the motor starts 'pulsing' a bit What might be causing this? My local specialist is away at the moment, so I thought I'd ask on here (I'm constantly amazed at the amount of knowledge on here: one of the reasons I made the purchase!) The bike is the X Model; full Chinese spec. Thanks for any ideas View attachment 2
Rabid said:Well. After deliberating for a while, I finally received my bike a couple of days ago
The pulsing is most likely some kind of feedback loop oscillation in the controller. Since there is no software to play around with, there is not likely to be an easy solution other than replacing the controller. Does it still happen when you are in the Eco mode?
BTW: that's some pretty lush growth in your off road area. Where is that located?
Marksteamnz
10 mW
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2017
- Messages
- 25
fechter said:
3DTOPO
1 kW
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2018
- Messages
- 499
Jonathan1981 said:
OMG! Dude, I would kill for a snow setup like that for my Sur-Ron. I think that would pretty much be the ultimate snow machine!!!
What a fun project it would be to build one too. I won't have nearly enough time before the snow flies though.
Did you build it, or who built it? If you built it, can you make me one for my Sur-Ron?!?!
3DTOPO
1 kW
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2018
- Messages
- 499
Looks like these get mounted in place of the swing arm?
Catalog:
https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalasse...02.446036330.1536482584-2017809405.1536482584
I wonder how hard it would be to get one to fit on the Sur-Ron!?!?!?
If it just needs a custom mounting bracket - that would be easy enough to make and will have to order one!
fechter said:Rabid said:Well. After deliberating for a while, I finally received my bike a couple of days ago
The pulsing is most likely some kind of feedback loop oscillation in the controller. Since there is no software to play around with, there is not likely to be an easy solution other than replacing the controller. Does it still happen when you are in the Eco mode?
BTW: that's some pretty lush growth in your off road area. Where is that located?
There are some access roads in the park next to where I live, so basically I just went exploring those
Not very long, but better than nothing in the middle of a city I'll have a word with my local Sur-Ron guy when he's back in town and see what he says... Thanks for the thoughts, though - I'm a total newbie as far as electric bikes go: my knowledge about as much as I've picked up from this group! I'll report back with any findings Oh: and this was only in Sport Mode. (I had thought that EP mode limited the bike to lower speeds? I've only really used Sport Mode
)
Rabid said:Well. After deliberating for a while, I finally received my bike a couple of days ago
IMG_20180908_100700729_HDR~01.jpg
IMG_20180908_103254035~01.jpg
How and where did you order the orange X version, I thought they only came in Blue? Even where Sur-Ron sells their bikes in china, on the Tmall webpage, they only have the Blue X version.
Rabid, if you could take close up pictures of the bike in better lighting , would like to see how the orange looks.
Allex said:
My Manitou Dorado Pro did show extreme high stiction after the bike just fell to side. The bike was leant against the wall and it fell to the bottom when i went by and hit the steerer, but luckily after untightening and retightening all bolts again it was working buttery smooth again.
In my case, the fork legs seemed to got twisted a bit inside the crowns which then led to the stiction - nothing was bent, at least it seems so.
This told me that it is very important that those upside down forks are aligned and intalled correct, because otherwise those forks could show an aweful high stiction.
On the dorado for instance it makes a differnce in response caracteristics if you move the legs 0,5mm together or apart on axle and this could happen during installation as there is no end stop on one side.
On this fork it is important that there is no load on it (wheel off the ground) when tightening the bolts which clap the axle.
Added to this i also noticed that it even could make a differnce in response characteristics if you tight the middle bolt of the upper crown (which clamps the 1 1/8" steer tube) to much or to less.
What does it mean? Even the best fork could have poor response characteristics if installed not correct.
Generally speaking of forks, you should be aware that even the smallest variance in alignment of the legs will lead to more stiction.
However that might be only one reason why a fork does not perform well. As Allex posted (the vid) i believe the main issues are manufacturing tolerances. I also owned two Marzocchi 380 forks one was working well and the other was sticky as hell. Shit, its so bad that today it is like a lotary game when purchasing a new fork!
The next time when i buy a new fork i buy 5pcs, compress them with the hands and the one with the lowest stiction i keep, the rest goes back.
Yes thats sad to say, but thats probabaly the best you can do if you spend 1000USD or more for a fork! Maybe the manufacturers learn from that to not sell crap.
Rix
100 TW
Jonathan1981 said:Rix said:
Thanks buddy,
Yeah for sure, can play with rear sprocket sizing no doubt... I actually bought a 55T from Kim, but have just been testing the bike all stock and well..... from what I can tell, @ 155lbs, I might not even need it the 55T. I'm pretty satisfied with torque on hill climbs and even lifting the front wheel sometimes so I imagine the 55T might makes things dicy for jibbing and tricking (aka unintended flips).... I'll give it try though and report back.
Regarding the gas bike, yep, FX bikes is what got me started into this 15 years ago.
Here's a pic of my gas bikes,
http://www.dirtforcemotorcycles.com/gallery.html
I built a few and sold a few over the years. Most of the images there are of the second model design, so I called it DHX2.0. Culmination of 10 years of research so it's geo and sus setup is about as good as it gets....full on adult sized bike. Frames made by hand...
if you scroll through, you'll see the original prototype using the Monster forks (with enduro springs) and straight connection, pit bike rear shock, that setup was not enough, bike bottom all the time and wasn't jump-able. Switching to the CR85 shock setup changed the game completely...made the bike WAY more playful and capable. I've never looked back or needed to re-think the suspension. That setup was the PERFECT setup for that style of bike/frame design.
in 2016 I started designing DHX3.0 with CAD, a really innovative frame design, that's still in progress but coming along very nicely. Similar to the Suron in it's aesthetic, it's a VERY polished and finished design. Looks just like something out of a Honda factory, with some cool bells and whistles thrown in. It's designed to be electric start also. Just wish I could show images and my 3D mock up, I have tons of them, but it's just not the right time....
BUT
if you look here and scroll down, you'll see some sneak peak images of the 3.0
https://www.facebook.com/DirtForceMotorcycles/
Yah,i am almost 100 pounds heavier than you. So the stock 48T for you probably pulls harder than the 55T does for me. Still, running the 55T will cost you about 5-6MPH top speed, and give you way more down low, and noticeable acceleration. BTW, I checked out your links, man those are sweet, and you have taken the backyard manufacturing way way farther than I had imagined. I don't know what the price for your bikes are, but I like them better than the FXx bikes imported by Cleveland Cycle works and better than the FX Bikes made in NZ.
madin88 said:
I hear you guys..I've never been impressed with any MTB suspension forks or shocks they do not compare to dirt bike gear.
Its sad that the high grade mtb stuff doesn't come close to a mid grade dirtbike fork, much less a properly valved dirt bike fork..
I have a set of 888's and when I first had them the stiction was so god awful that I sent them back to Marzocchi under warranty. They replaced the lowers and finally worked better, not good, but better. The "valving" if you want to call it that was a joke, At least it wasn't as bad as the DNM forks eh gad...… square edge ruts and rocks were jarring. No sense of trust on the front end. The internals of the 888's were garbage, cheap supposedly in the name of being "light weight". I wound up getting an avalanche kit, basically old school open bath dirtbike technology, and the difference is night and day. That along with a set of SKF seals and the forks are pretty damn good.... but the idea I have to return a set of forks or send them off to get them to work as they should from the factory is really sad...
Its also frustrating MTB companies dont want you to work the suspension, No workshop manuals, No information on the internals at all and difficult to get parts other than seals. Anyway enough venting...... Too bad that KYB doesnt make the SSS for mtb... that would be amazing.....
Offroader said:
The guy I know here told me that there had been a batch of orange bikes made for (I think?) the US. Showed me a piccy and I thought it was pretty cool. In reality, it's a very 'burnt orange' (rather than the KTM vibrant orange I was expecting). I was a little disappointed on opening, but since then (all of 3 days now!) it has grown on me
Once I'm in better light, I'll try and take some better pictures. It's also quite muddy at the moment (yet to find a good place to clean her 
)Rabid said:Offroader said:
The guy I know here told me that there had been a batch of orange bikes made for (I think?) the US. Showed me a piccy and I thought it was pretty cool. In reality, it's a very 'burnt orange' (rather than the KTM vibrant orange I was expecting). I was a little disappointed on opening, but since then (all of 3 days now!) it has grown on me
Thanks. That explains it because I actually started my post asking if it was red and not orange. It doesn't look like the KTM orange that I like also.
I would still consider it though because I always liked orange mountain bikes for some reason. I was looking at the red frame but not so sure about the red.
Jonathan1981
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Messages
- 180
3DTOPO said:Jonathan1981 said:
OMG! Dude, I would kill for a snow setup like that for my Sur-Ron. I think that would pretty much be the ultimate snow machine!!!
What a fun project it would be to build one too. I won't have nearly enough time before the snow flies though.
Did you build it, or who built it? If you built it, can you make me one for my Sur-Ron?!?!
Yes, I built it....few years ago.....that's a full snowmobile track cut in half....works reeeeeally well too, gobs of fun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvfKiu9u96Y
would never work on a Surron, you'd blow through a battery pack way too quickly.
