New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Greetings 
Would people with TSZD2 experience re the speed sensors please help. I have one that I suspect is stuffed. Is there a known test method?
An answer from another thread has me thinking that grounding the orange wire and looking for a pulse (on magnet passing) on tyhe white wire would be the go.....
.
Should I earth (to a Li-Ion battery -ve) the orange, put the multi-meter on low volts and attach the red probe to the + of the battery, the black probe to the "white" wire and flash the magnet over the sensor to check???
Trying to get my head around this (and the issue may well be that the sensor is stuffed)
Would people with TSZD2 experience re the speed sensors please help. I have one that I suspect is stuffed. Is there a known test method?
An answer from another thread has me thinking that grounding the orange wire and looking for a pulse (on magnet passing) on tyhe white wire would be the go.....
.
Should I earth (to a Li-Ion battery -ve) the orange, put the multi-meter on low volts and attach the red probe to the + of the battery, the black probe to the "white" wire and flash the magnet over the sensor to check???
Trying to get my head around this (and the issue may well be that the sensor is stuffed)
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
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- 6,045
Read the wiki, where you can find the wiring of the cable for 6 and 8 wires cable that goes to LCD.thineight said:casainho said:How to install TSDZ2 on Decatlhon RockRider 540 S full suspension bicycle
I bought new bicycle, this time a full suspension and it was cheap on Decatlhon for 500 euros. Thanks to the pictures/ideas shared by an user on how to fix TSDZ2 to the frame, I took the risk to buy this bicycle RockRider 540 S to install TSDZ2.
Also since the bicycle has hydraulic brakes, I had to use the type of sensor brakes as seem on the pictures.
I am sharing this images in the hope it can help others that want to install TSDZ2 on a bicycle with a similar frame.
Hello casainho and everyone, I'm new on this forum as active user but I was a silent follower since 1yr ago, when I bought two TSDZ2 motors.
Last year I installed the motors on two city bikes, and I home made a brake cut off system with a magnet and a reed switch, very cheap and it worked out. I have the VLCD5 display so i wired one brake with 2 wires on one of the ports on the back of VLCD5.
If needed, more info on the italian forum where I posted a schematic and picts of the actual work.
https://www.emtb-mag.com/forum/threads/motore-tongsheng-con-torsiometro.24/page-85#post-54805
https://www.emtb-mag.com/forum/threads/motore-tongsheng-con-torsiometro.24/page-96#post-62469
In june I made the decision and I bought a KTM mtb 29" and I moved one motor on it, and I've recycled the brake cut off system. I had to adapt a bit the system since the city bike's brakes were wired while the MTB ones are hydraulic, so the "travel" of the lever was nearly zero at the magnet location.
Recently, after a careful review of jbalat videos, I convinced myself to give a try to the Open Source Firmware (compliments for the great work to casainho and all the active contributors) and I ordered the display KT-LCD3 plus the usb programmer.
While waiting I realized that there are not (as far as i can see) the ports on the back like the VLCD5 where I wired the brake cut off system.
Casainho, i saw in the last picture above you installed a brake sensor on hydraulic brakes and LCD3, could you please explain which cut off you used, and how you wired it into the display? Or just redirect me to a site with the instruction, then i can work it out myself.
Many thanks and, again, thanks for the great job!
Thineight
Sorry for my bad english is the son of the automatic translator, I have to ask two questions to who is using the software Casainho I installed the ver..0.12, I set the LCD3 Display, in the menu 1 - 0 - 18, 18A with 36V battery , the engine delivers max 570W value identical to that of the 16A configuration of the first, I also checked with Watts'Up, why? can you post your max power found?
Another question, I saw in the other post, that it is not easy to go back in the versions because often the eeprom remains dirty, a problem that I had when I had to go back to the ver. 0.13 not working, then I asked myself if I wanted to go back to the original software is it possible or should I buy another controller?
Another question, I saw in the other post, that it is not easy to go back in the versions because often the eeprom remains dirty, a problem that I had when I had to go back to the ver. 0.13 not working, then I asked myself if I wanted to go back to the original software is it possible or should I buy another controller?
EndlessScream
100 µW
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- Aug 27, 2018
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- 7
sulx said:
I have made similar cable, because I did not want to cut the original cable and could not find a suitable connector. It is not a problem though. The actual problem is I do not know which pin is for which line (SWIM/RESET/5V/GND). I see you have connected 3 wires (SWIM, RESET and GND). How to provide the power for the microcontroller (without 5V line being connected to ST Link)? Is it enough to have battery connected to TSDZ2 or I should try to flash the firmware with TSDZ2 turned on?
sulx said:EndlessScream said:
Had similar situation with speed sensor being only 4 wire. As RC hobbyist i had jst wires and plug sets available (e.g. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jst-sh-servo-plug-set-futaba-gold-plated-10pairs-set.html) and cut one wire and connected female plugs to other end.
I'm going to make the same cable as i'm also in RC and have some of these wires lying around. Does someone have an image of the correct pinout between the Motor side speed sensor plug to the ST-Link programmer ?
Thank's
cascarabias
1 mW
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- Sep 12, 2018
- Messages
- 19
Hi, I've seen that the v.13 hex has been removed !! for serious problems .... I have installed this version and 200 kms without problem, problems are those of v.13hex? Should I change to v12 hex?
Thank you.
Thank you.
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
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The files are still on github but we need to browse historic to get them -- here the link to V0.13:cascarabias said:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TongSheng_TSDZ2_motor_controller_firmware/tree/16b97e8607d62fc590d1ea4a8b5aa4d56ec354a3/TSDZ2_and_KT_LCD3_Flexible_OpenSource_firmwares
EndlessCadence
100 W
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- Aug 22, 2018
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- 217
Version 0.13.1 (bugfix) is released, see my signature below for the link. Tomorrow I will try to update the wiki accordingly, but very little was changed compared to v0.12.casainho said:
To use the reset to factory defaults feature (it's no longer necessary to program the data memory!):
- Enter configuration menu 6
- Go to submenu 3
- Press the UP button 10 times, a counter on the display will be incremented anytime you do this
- The display will turn off
- Turn it on again and it will reset your configuration to the factory defaults!
Preferably follow this procedure for every upgrade of the firmware and directly after programming both the firmware of the controller and the display. But, for smaller bug fixes I'll try to prevent changes which require the configuration to be reset. Normally you can see this in the version number of the release, from now on the last number (e.g. x.x.3) will indicate whether it's a bug fix release.
Please use the dedicated forum topic for questions about the opensource TSDZ2 firmware.
EndlessCadence
100 W
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- Aug 22, 2018
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I have an annoying "click" with every pedal rotation, it's not very loud. I'm not sure if it relates to cadence or how hard I press on the pedals. I tightened the bolt of my crankarm and some bolts of the chainring spider but this didn't fix anything. I've noticed that some bolts of the chainring can be tightened as well but the nuts keep spinning. How do you guys fix this? I can't reach the nuts with the standard tool which I normally use for chainring nuts. My pedals are new.
jbalat
10 kW
I would just make sure you have a piece of rubber between the frame and motor and motor is tight. The cranks can do this too I use a a metal tube on the Allen key to get more leverage. If you think it's the chainring then remove it with the spider after removing the crank. Use some Vaseline on the thread on the crank puller. Then tighten the chaining to the spider properly, you may need to make something up to stop the backs spinning.
Good luck and good work with the new release.
Btw sometimes you can get noises like that from your seat, seat post or suspension
Good luck and good work with the new release.
Btw sometimes you can get noises like that from your seat, seat post or suspension
My plan was to use the Bafang BBS 1T4 cable with a Higo B8 cable to make a cable for the KT-LCD3
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=3525#p1414964
Using the Higo B8 avoids messing with the motor cable connector so I can go back to stock. And the Bafang cable has waterproof connections for throttle and brakes.
The Higo B8 cable is fine, it fits into the TSDZ2 8-pin motor connector. But the 5-pin green connector is the wrong sex compared to the connector on the KT-LCD3.
Same 5-pin connector type, but male/male. The KT-LCD3 comes with an extension cable with the mating connector, and that cable mates with the Bafang BBS 1T4 connector.
So now it is two multi-wire splices to make the Bafang cable work, changing the sex of both the 8-pin and the 5-pin connectors. Not so neat after all.
Anyone have a better solution?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=3525#p1414964
Using the Higo B8 avoids messing with the motor cable connector so I can go back to stock. And the Bafang cable has waterproof connections for throttle and brakes.
The Higo B8 cable is fine, it fits into the TSDZ2 8-pin motor connector. But the 5-pin green connector is the wrong sex compared to the connector on the KT-LCD3.
Same 5-pin connector type, but male/male. The KT-LCD3 comes with an extension cable with the mating connector, and that cable mates with the Bafang BBS 1T4 connector.
So now it is two multi-wire splices to make the Bafang cable work, changing the sex of both the 8-pin and the 5-pin connectors. Not so neat after all.
Anyone have a better solution?
casainho said:Read the wiki, where you can find the wiring of the cable for 6 and 8 wires cable that goes to LCD.thineight said:casainho said:How to install TSDZ2 on Decatlhon RockRider 540 S full suspension bicycle
I bought new bicycle, this time a full suspension and it was cheap on Decatlhon for 500 euros. Thanks to the pictures/ideas shared by an user on how to fix TSDZ2 to the frame, I took the risk to buy this bicycle RockRider 540 S to install TSDZ2.
Also since the bicycle has hydraulic brakes, I had to use the type of sensor brakes as seem on the pictures.
I am sharing this images in the hope it can help others that want to install TSDZ2 on a bicycle with a similar frame.
Casainho, i saw in the last picture above you installed a brake sensor on hydraulic brakes and LCD3, could you please explain which cut off you used, and how you wired it into the display? Or just redirect me to a site with the instruction, then i can work it out myself.
Many thanks and, again, thanks for the great job!
Thineight
Thanks, I read the wiki and i understood that two wires have to be routed inside the controller and soldered somewhere between GND and BRAKE wires. Did you run the cable by drilling a hole in the controller case or you sorted out somewhere else?
Any chance to get a picture/schematic of how you (or whoever installed brake cut off) did the actual work?
Thanks!
Are there any blue nylon replacement gears with sufficient gear mesh engagement available? Heard in another thread this issue has not been approved/addressed by adequate amount of peer review so it's a bit too early to worry about. Or it requires complete redesign of the whole unit?
Crazymac680
1 µW
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2018
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- 3
Hi. Is the 500 and 750w version larger than the 250 and 350 versions? Would the 750w version give me worse bottom bracket clearance? Is it heavier or is it all software changes?
Thanks for any advice.
Thanks for any advice.
Crazymac680 said:
All TSDZ2 models are the same size and weight
500W and 750W hardware is the same, the only difference is firmware settings.
Going further, the controllers are the same for 36V, 48V, and 52V. The only difference in controllers is whether it is wired to support throttle or not.
No throttle - 6-pin
With throttle - 8-pin
And there are only two motors, 36V and 48/52V. The two motors have different windings so they spin about 4000 rpm at full battery voltage.
The simplest approach is to buy what you think you will use, but other than 36/48V motor any purchase error can be fixed if you are willing to fuss with firmware.
Mu unsolicited advice is to buy a unit with throttle. I did not even mount it on the bike, the torque sensor is that good. But it is nice to have for setup and adjustments.
EndlessCadence said:
How worn are your chain and chaining? I noticed this sort of sound when my chainring was worn to sharp points. My guess is the regular tick on revolution is when the tip of a chainring tooth happens to meet the rod center of a chain pin, which then snaps down into the space in between teeth.
Crazymac680
1 µW
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2018
- Messages
- 3
tomtom50 said:
Thanks so much the advice.
I feel like I've been googling and asking on Facebook pages for days.
I might as well get the 500w. I'm a tinkerer so happy to put some work in to add value.
Thanks
EndlessCadence
100 W
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- Aug 22, 2018
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- 217
Thanks for your help! Today I found out that the motor mount had moved and it has crushed my display cable. I think this caused the clicking sound as well. Cable is repaired but I didn't test if the noise is gone now.cresny said:
I hope someone can help me with my lights circuit:
Because of the low maximum current of the TSDZ2's light output I wired an external solid state relay and DC-DC converter to power my lights. This works but it is inverted! I didn't know that NC (normally connected) solid state relays even existed and only saw them at high prices. But it looks like my relay is NC??
The lights turn on when I apply battery power, they turn off when I power on the lights using the LCD3 display. Confusing isn't it?
These are the parts I'm using:
- DC SSR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/the-cheapest-shipping-wholesale-KYOTTO-S-S-R-KF0602D-NEW-ORIGINAL-50PCS-LOT/1674971340.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
- DC-DC converter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-24V-36V-48V-60V-20V-60V-to-6V-5A-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck/32714423315.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dt0nLQ5
