Powered Push Trailers

From s_t, geared hub-motor, Ping 36V/15-aH battery inside the green gasoline container (waterproof+easy to remove for charging). 27-kph 18-mph

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16400

2010-02-20_006.jpg
 
This pic is from a non-electric bike blog about a cargo-trailer build. The hitch idea is just too good, had to post it here.

If you slice tubing length-wise, it can make saddles to slap onto the chainstays/seat-stays, and then u-bolts won't crush the tubing even though the ubolts are very tight. The thick aluminum plate is easy to source and cut, and the caster wheel is easily source-able in any size. Large for powerful builds, small for low-power builds to save on weight. Fairly cheap as a new part, fairly easy to find used to save on budget.

http://www.biketrailerblog.com/2010/01/a-new-twist-on-an-old-idea-home-made-bike-cargo-trailer/
brace-mounted-300x225.jpg
 
I have seen that hitch before; probably on Sean's blog if he has one) or a post referring to it somewhere on the web. It has several great repurposings in it, all of which I wish I had thought of before I saw it. :)
 
Here is a question for all that have used a push trailer. I see a lot of hitches that attach at or near the seatpost and also a lot that attach near the rear hub/axle down low. Can you tell me the advantages/disadvantages of each? Especially handling differences. I can see the higher mount trying to "push" the bike over on slow turns or not really a problem?
 
You'd have to turn pretty sharp to have a problem....I can do tight circles in the parking lot..

I like the ones that attach at the seat post since they're typically a bit stronger. I think the other style hitch/tongue will bend easier if you overload the trailer.
 
The only big problem I have had with my rack-height hitches (like yours, REdiculous) is that unless I can lock the brake on the bike wheels, then when I am parked the trailer can push the bike over really easy. If I had a separate locking brake for the trailer wheels (I will eventuallly) then this wouldn't be a problem.

If I had the hitch down at the dropout level, I'd still have it behind the rear wheel, so I would not have to deal with possible issues hooking the rear wheel on the towbar in a tight righthand turn (assuming the typical leftside hitchpoint at the dropouts).
 
Huh, pretty cool!
 
All these little trailers got me thinking about a range extender for my bike and simply having it in the trailer! Really, a simple powered trailer is a great addition even to an already electrified bike, because it can store so much more battery! Would allow me to take those really long rides I would normally use my gas bike for.... Got me thinking now... 40AH in addition to my 15AH in the bike and I could go almost anywhere! Plus you could make it a simple lower speed design (for touring) and you would have a backup motor too!
 
I submit the drawing I did to you guys , and ask if you think it would work?? I didn't see any thing in the files quite like this..

Using the front end of a bike , the head tube, fork, and front wheel would work as a caster... Use a front fork to couple to the rear dropouts of the bike ... I think if the head tube is at about 68-70 * angle it should trail with out shimmying .. What do you guys think :?: Lemmy know ... Thanks... Bill
 
Your drawing looks nice, but I have two "negative" comments:

Some of us have found that a very short trailer does tend to wag the dog a bit, particularly at speeds over 20 MPH. Your geometry might correct this problem.

Also, you don't seem to have a convienent place to carry batteries on the trailer. The batteries should be low to help control any wagging, and the extra weight helps with traction.

You really only find out be doing it. Good luck. :D
 
Thanks Rassy for the info on trailer being to short maybe to handle well ... I was thinking of putting the bats on the bike rack.. Guess I best lengthen the trailer and put them on it .. like you say the way to find out if it works is to build it ... good winter project ... Bill
 
Definitely better on the trailer than the rack; the weight up high on the rear of the bike will affect handling probably negatively, but on the sides of the trailer like panniers, or better yet between tire and hitch like a BOB trailer would be much better.

Weight on the pusher trailer wheel is a good thing, since you need traction, and there's very little weight on it compared to the bike. Without enough weight on the pusher wheel, it may just just spin and lose traction especially from a stop, if it is the only thing trying to push the bike forward.
 
rearengine said:
I submit the drawing I did to you guys , and ask if you think it would work?? I didn't see any thing in the files quite like this..

Using the front end of a bike , the head tube, fork, and front wheel would work as a caster... Use a front fork to couple to the rear dropouts of the bike ... I think if the head tube is at about 68-70 * angle it should trail with out shimmying .. What do you guys think :?: Lemmy know ... Thanks... Bill
Click to expand...

I made a monowheeled trailer a couple of years ago and tried the wheel at the back using a head tube (Sorry but I didn't document/pics at the first try with the headtube at the rear) the trouble is (I found anyway) the wheel will snake/shimmy. The faster I went the more the wheel snaked back and forth, I even loaded up the trailer with a pile of old bricks but weight didn't solve the problem. I reverted to the old tried and tested method of the pivot behind the rear wheel and a static trailer wheel.
You may have better luck with your design, fingers crossed :wink:

Regards
Tom
 

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