bpmcallorum
10 mW
Have any of you successfully paired up a Kelly controller, Sabvoton controller, or a VOTOL EM-50 controller with a Bafang 750 watt geared rear hub motor?
Thank you so much for your help.
I’ll look again and closer at the KT controllers.
I understand…that’s the whole point…and what many people have recommended.The Sabvaton 72100 is a very powerful controller. You would have to throttle it right back to protect you battery.
The question is, do those people know way more than the ES forum? Those controllers are way overkill for a 30A application (which those people should have told you), and the KT controllers fit that range nicely and can limit the current through the simple display interface, not by programming. If you want to spend several hundred dollars to do the job of a $60 controller, in order to learn how to program a controller and what all of the parameters do, then I can't argue whether that tuition cost is worth it or not, but if you just need a reliable controller that works, then the KT's are a simple solution. I climbed a lot of steep hills when I had my KT, and it never got past luke warm..
I’ve had many people who know way more than me tell me to get a much stronger controller than I need and program it down to 30 amps.
But it is crazy difficult to wire and program these controllers with a “foreign” motor.
You probably should have started with that info. Your motor will only run with a sensorless controller, so maybe that's why people are suggesting those brands. I'm not sure I'd invest that much to get a sensorless motor going (I'd replace the noisy motor and get the right controller for the job).My motor only has 3 wires and this says it’s not for me.
In fact it only has ONE wire…..with 3 pins (sub-wires)
This is super helpful. Thank you.The question is, do those people know way more than the ES forum? Those controllers are way overkill for a 30A application (which those people should have told you), and the KT controllers fit that range nicely and can limit the current through the simple display interface, not by programming. If you want to spend several hundred dollars to do the job of a $60 controller, in order to learn how to program a controller and what all of the parameters do, then I can't argue whether that tuition cost is worth it or not, but if you just need a reliable controller that works, then the KT's are a simple solution. I climbed a lot of steep hills when I had my KT, and it never got past luke warm.
Yes, I saw your post after I posted mine. 3 wires means it doesn't have sensors, and the KT controllers that I'm familiar with only work with sensored motors. The downside of the sensorless motors, besides the noise, are the rough starting from a standstill (or worse, on a hill), which is why it would be better to invest that money in a motor than an expensive controller. The controllers you mentioned will work, but it's sort of like putting lipstick on a pig.This is super helpful. Thank you.
Did you see what they said though about my 3 wire motor?
I’ve looked into getting a new motor extensively. Received many quotes. Trust me.Yes, I saw your post after I posted mine. 3 wires means it doesn't have sensors, and the KT controllers that I'm familiar with only work with sensored motors. The downside of the sensorless motors, besides the noise, are the rough starting from a standstill (or worse, on a hill), which is why it would be better to invest that money in a motor than an expensive controller. The controllers you mentioned will work, but it's sort of like putting lipstick on a pig.
Have any of you successfully paired up a Kelly controller, Sabvoton controller, or a VOTOL EM-50 controller with a Bafang 750 watt geared rear hub motor?
This controller will run sensorless and is even cheaper, but I personally would start by replacing the motor with a sensored motor because they are much more efficient and less noisy.
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Sensorless Brushless Motor Controller DC 36V/48V 1000-1500W 12-FET 35A
12 fet 35A KT torque simulation sensorless brushless controller. PLEASE NOTE: This is a sensorless brushless motor controller, intended for motors with only 3 wires. If your motor has 8 or 9 wires, it can be used with this controller without the hall sensors connected, by just connecting the 3...torquetech.co.uk
What model Bafang motor do you have that doesn’t have hall sensors built in?
This information is helpful, since it provides some background, and insights on your future upgrade path. Given that, you may want to get the right controller that will work for the future bike, but still run sensorless for the current setup. I still wouldn't recommend a programable unit, since you are only trying to limit current. Is your controller mounted where it gets good airflow? The number of failures make it seem like something else may be contributing.I’ve looked into getting a new motor extensively. Received many quotes. Trust me.
I have a very custom wheel size. 18”
Rim, 22” inch rubber to rubber diameter.
I plan to evolve my bike in the future to a whole new motor/battery/controller. And in fact I have a few suppliers for a whole new system. Because they want $$$$$.
For now I honestly just got fired from my job and I am trying to go to a new workplace 25 miles away everyday.
It would simply be preferable if I could just get a bulletproof 30amp controller to work with my 750 watt Bafang geared rear hub motor for now.
I have burned through 6!!!!!! Bolton 35amp controllers for one reason or another this year (very very long story). I hate Mr. Bolton.
I ride a heavy cargo bike with no chain throttle only all night long. I have about 60 amp hours in my batteries. It’s a low powered e-scooter.
And the controllers with small capacitors die!!! I would even say they LIE about being able to do 30 amps continuous.
That’s why everyone says to buy a stronger controller and program it down. Most controllers are under $200, that price point is of no concern to me.
I suppose you will say get a 20” kit with no battery….if u have a link to something that will definitely work on a Radwagon 4 then I’m all ears.
If you know of a 22" fat tire wheel mounted on a 18" motorcycle rim with a great motor that is paired up with a great controller with larger capacitors than necessary that can easily be programmed down to 30 amps please let me know!!!This controller will run sensorless and is even cheaper, but I personally would start by replacing the motor with a sensored motor because they are much more efficient and less noisy.
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Sensorless Brushless Motor Controller DC 36V/48V 1000-1500W 12-FET 35A
12 fet 35A KT torque simulation sensorless brushless controller. PLEASE NOTE: This is a sensorless brushless motor controller, intended for motors with only 3 wires. If your motor has 8 or 9 wires, it can be used with this controller without the hall sensors connected, by just connecting the 3...torquetech.co.uk
What model Bafang motor do you have that doesn’t have hall sensors built in?
From GrinAh, now we are beginning to understand why you are looking at such a big controller.
You have been asking a lot of those Boltons to be run on a heavy cargo bike all night long on throttle only. They have probably all overheated on you. The motor has done well to survive that amount of work.
The wording on that link you posted is confusing.
“You will need our 35a KT controllers to run with this motor for the Sondors ebike. For the Rad ebikes or any ebikes with the compatible 3pin motor plug you can still use the stock controller/LCD. This "true" 750w motor is more powerful and robust than the 350 & 500w Bafang motor and it's the easiest and best way to replace them”.
There is also a photograph of a Julet 916 connector that shows the 3 large motor pins in the middle, but the much smaller hall sensor pins are on the outside and are not so easy to see.
G060 motors all run with hall sensors, so take a closer look before choosing your next controller.
Also those Bolton controllers look exactly the same as the KT controller that I linked to earlier in the thread.