Need suggestions for a higher top speed on Bafang G060 750w

[Bike_pilot]

I recently purchased a new E bike that has a 750W Bafang rear hub motor with a DMHC controller and an M6C programer.
Ebike has a 48v battery.
I’m new to this so let me know if more info is needed.
It appears that I am limited to 20mph no matter what is changed on the programer. Speed settings have no effect at all. I would like to get the most out of the motor and would appreciate some guidance.
Do I need to replace the controller?
Photos of components for reference.

 

[amberwolf]

Is it still the same speed when the powered wheel is held offf the ground, at max throttle? If so, then the controller is speed limiting.

If it's faster off ground, then it just doens't have enough power and/or voltage to go any faster.

Once we know which one it is, a path can be found to do what you want.

What job (speed, acceleration, range, etc) do you need the system to do for you, under what riding conditions (terrain, winds, raod type, total weight, etc)? Defining those you can then use calculators / simulators like those at ebikes.ca to find out the power and capacity needed to do those things. Knowing that you can then figure out if the system you have is essentially capable of them, or not, and what you might have to replace.

 

[E-HP]

If you have a throttle, then first confirm that the controller is apply a speed limit by raising the wheel off the ground and run full throttle. Assuming that's the case, then check the wiring to see if there are a couple of single wire connectors with the same wire color either connected to each other, or disconnected. Some controllers use that for speed limiting, others for self learning (initial setup). Don't do anything, just respond.
If you need a controller, then it looks like you may have enough battery to support a 25A or maybe 30A unit. The pack is likely made with generic Chinese cells. My pack with generic cells could run comfortably at 1C or lower, OK with some voltage sag at 1.5C, and short bursts at 2C. So <17.5A, 26.25A, and 35A for your pack; so should be fine with a 25A controller.
To know what kind of controller you would need, you'll have to describe what functions your current one provides. That would be things like throttle, cruise control, lights, brake cutoffs (the controller appears to support them), type of sensor used for PAS , etc.

 

[Bike_pilot]

Is it still the same speed when the powered wheel is held offf the ground, at max throttle? If so, then the controller is speed limiting.

If it's faster off ground, then it just doens't have enough power and/or voltage to go any faster.

Once we know which one it is, a path can be found to do what you want.

What job (speed, acceleration, range, etc) do you need the system to do for you, under what riding conditions (terrain, winds, raod type, total weight, etc)? Defining those you can then use calculators / simulators like those at ebikes.ca to find out the power and capacity needed to do those things. Knowing that you can then figure out if the system you have is essentially capable of them, or not, and what you might have to replace.

20mph with wheel off the ground or riding flat asphalt.

 

[Bike_pilot]

If you have a throttle, then first confirm that the controller is apply a speed limit by raising the wheel off the ground and run full throttle. Assuming that's the case, then check the wiring to see if there are a couple of single wire connectors with the same wire color either connected to each other, or disconnected. Some controllers use that for speed limiting, others for self learning (initial setup). Don't do anything, just respond.
If you need a controller, then it looks like you may have enough battery to support a 25A or maybe 30A unit. The pack is likely made with generic Chinese cells. My pack with generic cells could run comfortably at 1C or lower, OK with some voltage sag at 1.5C, and short bursts at 2C. So <17.5A, 26.25A, and 35A for your pack; so should be fine with a 25A controller.
To know what kind of controller you would need, you'll have to describe what functions your current one provides. That would be things like throttle, cruise control, lights, brake cutoffs (the controller appears to support them), type of sensor used for PAS , etc.

Speed is the same with wheel off the ground. Looks like I have front and rear lights and throttle. Wires shown below with pas sensor.

 

[E-HP]

Speed is the same with wheel off the ground. Looks like I have front and rear lights and throttle. Wires shown below with pas sensor.

I don't see any obvious jumpers that could be for limiting speed. Can you confirm that the connector for the PAS sensor is 3 wires and not 4? 3 is more common and compatible with more controllers.

 

[Bike_pilot]

I don't see any obvious jumpers that could be for limiting speed. Can you confirm that the connector for the PAS sensor is 3 wires and not 4? 3 is more common and compatible with more controllers.

Pas is 3 wire.

 

[AGS]

Have you tried setting P8 to 100 on the display? This will then limit the speed to around 62 miles per hour. It is probably factory set at around 32, which is limiting you to 20 mph.

If the display is locked by the factory and you don’t know the password, then you won’t be able to access the advanced P settings unless you replace it with an unlocked display.

 

[Bike_pilot]

Have you tried setting P8 to 100 on the display? This will then limit the speed to around 62 miles per hour. It is probably factory set at around 32, which is limiting you to 20 mph.

If the display is locked by the factory and you don’t know the password, then you won’t be able to access the advanced P settings unless you replace it with an unlocked display.

It is unlocked and set at 100. No change.

 

[2old]

The controller is @ 21 amps. Isn't that the limiting factor?

 

[AGS]

There are a couple of other P settings that need checking, so it may be worthwhile listing all of your current settings and then someone may spot if any are wrong.

Was P8 already set to 100 or did you have to change it?

 

[AGS]

He should be getting more than 20mph with a 21 amp controller. The motor should peak at 1kW with that battery and controller configuration. This should be enough for at least 26mph, unless he has a tiny wheel diameter.

 

[Bike_pilot]

He should be getting more than 20mph with a 21 amp controller. The motor should peak at 1kW with that battery and controller configuration. This should be enough for at least 26mph, unless he has a tiny wheel diameter.

20” fat tires. I did change p8 when bike arrived.

 

[E-HP]

What's you controller upgrade budget, and will you be staying with the 21A current limit of the stock unit?

 

[Bike_pilot]

What's you controller upgrade budget, and will you be staying with the 21A current limit of the stock unit?

No set budget just want it to take advantage of all the G060 and current battery can put out. If a 21A is what will get me there I’m fine with it.

 

[AGS]

Is P6 set to the actual wheel diameter including the tyre or just the rim size without the tyre? It may be going faster than you think.

 

[E-HP]

No set budget just want it to take advantage of all the G060 and current battery can put out. If a 21A is what will get me there I’m fine with it.

Do you care if the display speed is accurate? If you can change the wheel diameter setting to something smaller, like 10 inches, the controller will think it needs to spin the wheel twice as fast to go 20mph. You can check actual speed with your gps. Even if it’s not the solution, you’d see how the 21A performs as a data point when planning your controller upgrade.

 

[Bike_pilot]

Is P6 set to the actual wheel diameter including the tyre or just the rim size without the tyre? It may be going faster than you think.

P6 is set to 24.5 to account for tire size. Gps verified 20mph.

 

[Bike_pilot]

Do you care if the display speed is accurate? If you can change the wheel diameter setting to something smaller, like 10 inches, the controller will think it needs to spin the wheel twice as fast to go 20mph. You can check actual speed with your gps. Even if it’s not the solution, you’d see how the 21A performs as a data point when planning your controller upgrade.

Changed P6 to 10 from 24.5. Gps says 23mph.
I would like the speed to show accurately.

 

[E-HP]

Changed P6 to 10 from 24.5. Gps says 23mph.
I would like the speed to show accurately.

Is the speed a power sufficient? It's likely that the 23mph is the top speed of the motor at the voltage being provided, so if you need more speed, then the upgrade would require a higher voltage battery as well. If it's sufficient, then you'd want to look for a ~21A replacement controller.

 

[E-HP]

Can P6 go lower than 10? Is the speed and power when set at 10 sufficient? If a lower P6 setting still stops at 23mph, then it's likely that the 23mph is the top speed of the motor at the voltage being provided, so if you need more speed, then the upgrade would require a higher voltage battery as well. If it's sufficient, then you'd want to look for a ~21A replacement controller.

 

[Bike_pilot]

Is the speed a power sufficient? It's likely that the 23mph is the top speed of the motor at the voltage being provided, so if you need more speed, then the upgrade would require a higher voltage battery as well. If it's sufficient, then you'd want to look for a ~21A replacement controller.

I would like it to be faster but don’t want to replace the battery. Any controller brand I should consider?