D-Gray : dark gray is a copy of hall sensors signal , you can use it as speed signal
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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It works perfectly too. I have my Ca3 hooked up to it
Rix
100 TW
Rix
100 TW
Not as gnarley and steep or scenci as the stuff you are riding, but it'll do.
Hi, I am planning a Stealth Clone budget build and have a few question.
Mission:
- Off road, single and double track not too technical but some minor rock steps and baby head size rocks
- Top speed 40-45 mph
- Motor QS205
- 72V battery
- Motorcycle rims and tires off of a 125cc or 150cc
Questions:
- What is a good tire size for the best handling off-road to get the most out of the frame geometry/handling and tire selection.
- What winding should I try for 3T, 4T, 5T ...
- Many resellers do not talk about the winding but reference RPM range can I identify the winding type by RPM.
Want to thank all of you for the great detailed posts on your bikes. This looks like a fun winter project.
Gordon
Mission:
- Off road, single and double track not too technical but some minor rock steps and baby head size rocks
- Top speed 40-45 mph
- Motor QS205
- 72V battery
- Motorcycle rims and tires off of a 125cc or 150cc
Questions:
- What is a good tire size for the best handling off-road to get the most out of the frame geometry/handling and tire selection.
- What winding should I try for 3T, 4T, 5T ...
- Many resellers do not talk about the winding but reference RPM range can I identify the winding type by RPM.
Want to thank all of you for the great detailed posts on your bikes. This looks like a fun winter project.
Gordon
Rix
100 TW
I would look at motorcycle rims, specifically 19x1.40 or if you want a bigger wheel, 21x1.60 rims. The smaller rim will give you more thrust and increase mechanical advantage, aka more power to the ground at the potential cost of a little less top speed. Some of us have even ran 17a1.40 rims on the rear for that very reason. There are a bunch of knobby tire options and a few trial tire options in these sizes. With a 20s pack aka 72-74v battery, for hilly stuff and best overall performance with top speed of over 40MPH, a 4T stator wind would be the best all around, especially if you went with the 21" wheel option.
Rix
100 TW
Rix
100 TW
If you go far enough back in this thread, you will see I ran both the same and different size front and rear rim/wheel/tire combos. I made all combos work by either setting my sag on the rear less, or dropping the forks in the triple clamps to mitigate any head tube angle handling issues. Its what ever you want. Being that we are dealing with hub motors, going smaller on the rear puts more power to the ground, so that why I would recommend that over same size front rear.
Rix
Thanks for the info, sounds pretty adjustable as far as handling goes.
Playing with the Grin simulator looking like about 37mph projected. This assumes:
- 4T is 13rpm/volt
- 72Volts and 60 amp max battery current; 120 amp per phase
- 18 inch wheel
Thanks for the info, sounds pretty adjustable as far as handling goes.
Playing with the Grin simulator looking like about 37mph projected. This assumes:
- 4T is 13rpm/volt
- 72Volts and 60 amp max battery current; 120 amp per phase
- 18 inch wheel
Rix
100 TW
I would say the Cromotor is a really good close equivalent of the the QS205. So if you are running a 20S battery, your HOC is 84 volts, its technically a "74" volt battery based on nominal voltage ratings of most lithium ion based cells. I have found the Grin Simulator to be very accurate with the minimums one can expect. Your realistic speed hot of the charger will be around 40 mph for a good part of the battery's charge with your listed parameters.
Here is a comparison of a 4T(13 rpm/volt) and a 3T(16 rpm/volt). 4T acceleration is about 1mph/sec greater at 10mph. It seems very important to the the correct winding but I don't see it stated in most on-line sellers. Some have the no-load rpm which helps.
GRIN Simulator plots at ebikes.ca
GRIN Simulator plots at ebikes.ca
If it's not, you can ream out the hole if it's bigger, or use a big fender washer on either side of the plate it mounts to if it's smaller (just reaming out the washer's hole to the size of the new one).
I got the old ignition out last night. It turns out the hole is 19x16mm which seems to be a common size for ignitions. The one I bought looks, and fits exactly like my stock one. Even the key is shaped about the same. The problem is the locking tumbler feels like very low quality, and I don't like it very much. I'm going to have to use it for now though, because I need my bike tomorrow. I've already ordered a better one which has a black bezel that will look better on my bike. I always thought the stock chrome ignition looked kind of out of place on my red, and black bike which has no other chrome pieces on it. Chrome won't get you home lol, sorry I had a Harley relapse.
This was the first time I've had the side covers off my bike since the rebuild a year ago. I was happy to find that none of my connections look like they've been getting hot, or having any problems.
View attachment 341550
This was the first time I've had the side covers off my bike since the rebuild a year ago. I was happy to find that none of my connections look like they've been getting hot, or having any problems.
View attachment 341550
On even days of the week I'd prefer to put wires in the streamers so they point backwards all the time evne when I'm stopped.
On odd days of the week I'd spin them around to point forwards.
Even better would be to put a little motor on them to twirl them around a little like the wind was blowing.
Another motor to force them to point straight down and not move while riding.
That should mess with anyone watching pretty well, right?
:lol:
On odd days of the week I'd spin them around to point forwards.
Even better would be to put a little motor on them to twirl them around a little like the wind was blowing.
Another motor to force them to point straight down and not move while riding.
That should mess with anyone watching pretty well, right?
:lol:
You probably didn't get the memo when I first installed them. They look like ordinary streamers, but perform as a very effective cloaking devise. They work pretty good too, because in 10 years of fast city riding at traffic speeds I've only been pulled over once. That one time revealed a problem I wasn't aware of though. From the front, and sides they work great, but viewing from directly behind, there's a weakness in the field. According to my calculations these new mini streamers disguised to look like Texas concho's will increase the field strength from behind.
Earlier documentation from the secret biknut skunkworks.
Cloaking disabled
Cloaking enabled
Rix
100 TW
Very impressive!
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