Best USA low to mid priced batteries?

Just Give'r

100 µW
Joined
Aug 4, 2021
Messages
8
Hi All,

Over researched the heck out of my first build last year and decided a UPP battery would do for my use.

Been out of touch for almost a year, are there any new budget or semi-budget battery options? How do people feel about UPP batteries now?
 
Unit Pack Power is fine from what I can tell.

You can find a sale on tool pack batteries at Home Depot, Lowes, Totem, Rona.

Tool pack batteries from the home improvement stores can be a great deal when on sale, like my Ryobi's that I got 26 miles out of today for 35wh/mile.
I do the same loops, long stretches for a good workout session.

Laptop batteries can be purchased in bulk, but they have such a low discharge that you need many parallel groups to up the batteries discharge amperage.

Lead Acid is cheap, but they dont last long, their capacity is de-rated by 15-20%. Bulky and heavy for ebike application.

DIY with a microwave transformer tab welder or just buy a cheap tab welder that uses Lipo.
I plugged mine into the wall 120v ac due to its controller board, just a simple switch of a component made it 240v ac.

You can wait for a sale to go on batteries, I bought my 52v 14.5ah battery on sale from Grintech on sale and they had a combo deal for the Satiator charger. Saved a couple, if not a few hundred bucks.

I would never buy a used battery, never. You would have zero clue how its been treated and zero clue how its been stored.
Its not worth it.
 
Just Give'r said:
Hi All,

Over researched the heck out of my first build last year and decided a UPP battery would do for my use.

Been out of touch for almost a year, are there any new budget or semi-budget battery options? How do people feel about UPP batteries now?

UPP is probably still a decent option. I have two and haven't had issues. On my second pack that I ordered off of ebay, I actually got a call from China asking to clarify the specs of the cells and BMS I ordered.
 
Hi All,

UPP seems like a good option still.

Thanks in advance for the input.

I've previously posted this question over a year ago. Thanks for the replies, and sorry for the lack of response.
 
The best batteries you'll find in the USA at low prices are second life automotive, industrial, or medical modules. They're usually much better in both cells and construction than any e-bike specific packs at any price.

To get the best deals on those, you may have to compromise on pack size/shape or voltage. And you may have to furnish your own BMS if you want one.
 
Theoretically, building your own battery out of quality salvaged cells would be the cheapest and best battery, imho.

Myself, I have fallen down that rabbit hole! Almost felt a superpower thing coming on. I fantasised about electrifying every gasser in my fleet. That bubble burst when I burnt up my brand-new spot welder. RTFM!

To console myself, I doubled down and bought some more cells: A123 36V 9.2ah Power Module - 48x 26650 LIFEPO4 Cells .
 
Theoretically, building your own battery out of quality salvaged cells would be the cheapest and best battery, imho.

If only it were so. Unfortunately, we're not laser welding robots in a six sigma manufacturing facility with controlled materials, temperature, air quality, etc. And we don't have anybody coming after us whose job is to pass or fail our work.

That's why I go for modules and not cells.
 
Chalo, what kind of modules would you recommend, or have used on a bike?

This sounds like an interesting option, but generally when i go looking, i find batteries that are an ill-fit for a regular upright bike.
 
Ok two of the A123 9ah a BT 100amp at battery hookup for 72v 9ah and a Sali 72v kit 26in with display no tire.For 345.00usd shipped
Or I wanted the robot battery for 11s10p cut it in half for 20s5p of 21700 cells 175.00usd with BT BMS 100.00usd plus $20 for the modem and I don't know what else.

Trying to buy a mxus 3000 and buying a Sali generic 72 volt 3000 watt kit
Thread starter999zip999 Start dateJul 1, 2023
 
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Chalo, what kind of modules would you recommend, or have used on a bike?

This sounds like an interesting option, but generally when i go looking, i find batteries that are an ill-fit for a regular upright bike.
I pay attention to BatteryHookup a lot, and the past few months, they have had lots of good deals/options for LFP, but not as many in Li-Ion. So not great lately for a standard ebike. Used to have more options, will possibly have more in the future.
 
The A123 battery pack will probably last 7 to 10 years that's the first one. Lifepo4 heavy but very safe and easy to work with high discharge cell.
The important part what kit are you trying to match this battery too. The important part what voltage what controller and what are you going to use the bike for ?
That's the starting point. ???

This battery could be for a skateboard a bicycle or a golf cart you're going to have to help us out.
 
That's why I go for modules and not cells.
So you're saying to give up the therapeutic chore of separating and cleaning battery cells! I love the satisfaction of a box full of beautiful batteries.

PXL_20231214_023544595.jpg
The above are from 8 cell packs of A123 cells that Chalo had linked to awhile ago.

I bought (4) 48 A123 cell 36v bolt packs today. My penultimate goal is to build a 72v pack for a Grom conversion. I'll see if I can build a 24s8p out of these modules, providing that it fits. I assume some there will be quite a bit of beefing up on the cell connections in order to get a 100a output. All that hinges on my ability to build a usable 36v battery out of the cells above to power my troubled child, a TSDZ2, as installed on a small FS MTB.



PXL_20231106_054254166.jpg
 
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I pay attention to BatteryHookup a lot, and the past few months, they have had lots of good deals/options for LFP, but not as many in Li-Ion. So not great lately for a standard ebike. Used to have more options, will possibly have more in the future.
Will check them out ( i kinda want lifepo4 ). Thanks
 
Chalo, what kind of modules would you recommend, or have used on a bike?

This sounds like an interesting option, but generally when i go looking, i find batteries that are an ill-fit for a regular upright bike.
Here's one very much like my biggest battery, pretty much the same format but this one is 13S 37Ah and the one I use (from Battery Hookup) is 12S 47Ah, 26 pounds for the module alone:


I strongly recommend this module for its potency, construction quality, and compactness. One of my close buddies bought one of the 44V/47Ah version, then swapped it for one of the 48V/37Ah kind for a portable 120VAC/12VDC/48VDC power pack.

For my own 12S version, I attached an active balancer, packed it in a fake Pelican case with foam all around it, and mounted a Racktime Snapit adapter on the bottom of the case, so it clicks onto my rear racks.

My other usual module pack is a 12s 20Ah block from a Mercedes mild hybrid. It's packaged the same way, with the same mounting fixture, but in a smaller case. I think 16 pounds for the module without the case. That case is fitted with a cutoff switch and a lighted digital voltmeter.

The other battery I use regularly is a 13S 25Ah pack with Panasonic PHEV2 format cells from a Ford 21S module. I made my own compression frame and put it in a reinforced and padded tool bag with the same Racktime Snapit adapter. That one is 26 pounds complete in its bag.

There's another 12S 8.5Ah Samsung cells module that I keep in another, smaller fake Pelican case without a rack mount. I carry it in my bike luggage as insurance when I'm pushing the limits of battery range.

None of these packs is a convenient shape for mounting on a bicycle, but all of them fit nicely on my rear racks, or in the cargo boxes of my cargo bikes. I used Hailong/Shark packs in the past, but I can't imagine going back to that unless I want a stripped-down bike without luggage options.
 
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Here's one very much like my biggest battery, pretty much the same format but this one is 13S 37Ah and the one I use (from Battery Hookup) is 12S 47Ah, 26 pounds for the module alone:


I strongly recommend this module for its potency, construction quality, and compactness. One of my close buddies bought one of the 44V/47Ah version, then swapped it for one of the 48V/37Ah kind for a portable 120VAC/12VDC/48VDC power pack.

For my own 12S version, I attached an active balancer, packed it in a fake Pelican case with foam all around it, and mounted a Racktime Snapit adapter on the bottom of the case, so it clicks onto my rear racks.

My other usual module pack is a 12s 20Ah block from a Mercedes mild hybrid. It's packaged the same way, with the same mounting fixture, but in a smaller case. I think 16 pounds for the module without the case. That case is fitted with a cutoff switch and a lighted digital voltmeter.

The other battery I use regularly is a 13S 25Ah pack with Panasonic PHEV2 format cells from a Ford 21S module. I made my own compression frame and put it in a reinforced and padded tool bag with the same Racktime Snapit adapter. That one is 26 pounds complete in its bag.

There's another 12S 8.5Ah Samsung cells module that I keep in another, smaller fake Pelican case without a rack mount. I carry it in my bike luggage as insurance when I'm pushing the limits of battery range.

None of these packs is a convenient shape for mounting on a bicycle, but all of them fit nicely on my rear racks, or in the cargo boxes of my cargo bikes. I used Hailong/Shark packs in the past, but I can't imagine going back to that unless I want a stripped-down bike without luggage options.
What would you think about using two 48v 13s Audi modules in series for a 8kw hub motorcycle , lightweight for short runs, anyone know discharge information?
 
What would you think about using two 48v 13s Audi modules in series for a 8kw hub motorcycle , lightweight for short runs, anyone know discharge information?
I don't know what the ratings are for those packs. I will observe that my 12S 47Ah pack sags noticeably more at 60A (about 2 volts overall) than it does at 40A. But that's as hard as I've tried to stomp on it.

The lower cell capacity and seemingly same-size cells indicate that the 13S pack may be intended for higher discharge rate.
 
Sounds like a 8C rated or higher cell.
Without any kind of liquid cooling, 120A is probably where you want to draw the line on those, about 10.5kw if you have two in series.

Double the KW if you can somehow fit in 4 in, with a parallel group!
 
Sounds like a 8C rated or higher cell.
Without any kind of liquid cooling, 120A is probably where you want to draw the line on those, about 10.5kw if you have two in series.

Double the KW if you can somehow fit in 4 in, with a parallel group!
I could fit 4 , 2s 2 parallel but that is 100 lb + , not sure how BMS would work,(wiring),
Two would be a handy 50 lbs,
If it was sporty enough, again short runs,
I run the bike simulator, but not sure how to input my qs 273 8kw hub motor for accuracy kv and such it's a 3 turn winding,?
 
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