Components identification and Specialized Turbo 2015 repair

No. No such pot exists.

You can only use a pot on the low current signal line.

You could sort of do it by taking a piece of copper wire and solder one end to the end of the shunt, and the other end to somewhere in the middle of the shunt so you can possibly move it later. The copper needs to be pretty thick and kept short.
 
Either way, you want to have some way to measure the current after making a change. If you can read the numbers on the FETs, we can get an idea for how much it can take without blowing up.

AA287F
A A15
LM317

There are 7 of them.
 

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The LM317 is the 12v voltage regulator. AA287F doesn't come up in any searches, so no real guess as to how much it can take.
I've boosted several controllers to 1.5x the original rating without blowing things up, so that might be a good target.
If you solder a piece of copper wire from one end of the shunt to about 1/3 of the way from that end toward the other end, you should feel a difference. Good idea to run it for a while and check controller heating. If it blows up, you'll likely need a new controller.
 
AA287F
A A15
LM317

There are 7 of them.
Does all 7 have same markings?, i doubt. There would be 6 fets, 7th one dc regulator, but all in same form factor.

Expecting that other 6 (fets) would have same part number, but different from the above.
 
If you solder a piece of copper wire from one end of the shunt to about 1/3 of the way from that end toward the other end, you should feel a difference. Good idea to run it for a while and check controller heating. If it blows up, you'll likely need a new controller.
runs indeed better, can climb steeper roads now. for security i added a fuse. 15A didn't last long, 20A so far okay. that's also what d BMS can handle. longer testing soon.
 

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Does all 7 have same markings?, i doubt. There would be 6 fets, 7th one dc regulator, but all in same form factor.

Expecting that other 6 (fets) would have same part number, but different from the above.
i'll check next time i open controller.
 
Nice job.

Run it for a while and check to see if the controller is getting hot.
ran for about 10km, on d flat and also uphill; it just gets warm (also motor). uphill performance improved, top speed remains at 37km/h. but going uphill d 20A-BMS cut out twice, before fuse blew. so i guess i reached d limit for now. may get a GRIN controller, swop BMS for simple balancer and up fuse to 25A at a later stage. see what is possible with this battery/motor 🤔🤔
question: when current is 20A from battery, how many A will there be in d 3-phase AC wires between controller and motor? when a controller is rated at 20A, does this refer to DC or AC side?
 
The rating is for the battery side. Phase wire amps will be the same or higher depending upon motor load. It could be several times higher at low speeds and full throttle.
 
so i guess i reached d limit for now. may get a GRIN controller, swop BMS for simple balancer and up fuse to 25A at a later stage. see what is possible with this battery/motor 🤔🤔
Your fuse protects the downstream conductor from overloading or short circuit. My guess is that your battery conductors can handle a lot more than 25A. I think you can go higher and still protect the conductors from a short. Your BMS protects the battery, fuse protects the conductor, the controller current limit protects the controller, and to some extent the motor.
 
Sorry, I can't help you with this one... I have no market overview, I'm more into deepdiving through the system I have at hand. I just happened to have the same motor :)
this motor...... specs say 200W; when i run uphill it draws 20A @ 40V = 800W. assuming controller is 90% efficient & motor 80% efficient, that means it puts out 576W, is that correct? without getting warm, so seems it can do even more. what are your experiences?
 
this motor...... specs say 200W; when i run uphill it draws 20A @ 40V = 800W. assuming controller is 90% efficient & motor 80% efficient, that means it puts out 576W, is that correct? without getting warm, so seems it can do even more. what are your experiences?
You should add a temp sensor to you motor if you’re hot rodding it. If you don’t have one, you don’t know how warm the motor is inside. Under high load you can easily cook a motor when the case only feels lukewarm warm.
 
update:
build a battery 13S/7P 21700, cells, 1.5kWh, installed Grintech Baserunner&Cycleanalyst.
what do you think, are these (ball?)connectors (for motor, 3phase) good enough? i installed a 40A DalyBMS. i'd say no, but d phase-wires, which are supposed to carry 30A continously, are probably only 1mm2 too :unsure:

PS actually there IS a fuse
 

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If they are properly crimped onto the wires, and the barrels properly fit the pins, securely, then they'll probably be low resistance enough for 30A phase current.

If they are not properly crimped, or don't fit tightly, there will be higher reistance than there should be at those points, and they may get hot, which could cause problems or connection failure.

I don't know offhand what your phase wire current limit is--remember that most wiring charts are probably for open-air conditions, and your wires are probably bundled up together inside a thermally-insulating jacket, so they'll get a lot hotter inside that than they would with the air passing by them as you ride, and so be able to handle less current.

If they don't get warm, there's nothing to worry aobut.

If they do, you can change them out. :)



The BMS current rating isn't relevant to the phase wire current.
 
If they are properly crimped onto the wires, and the barrels properly fit the pins, securely, then they'll probably be low resistance enough for 30A phase current.

If they are not properly crimped, or don't fit tightly, there will be higher reistance than there should be at those points, and they may get hot, which could cause problems or connection failure.

I don't know offhand what your phase wire current limit is--remember that most wiring charts are probably for open-air conditions, and your wires are probably bundled up together inside a thermally-insulating jacket, so they'll get a lot hotter inside that than they would with the air passing by them as you ride, and so be able to handle less current.

If they don't get warm, there's nothing to worry aobut.

If they do, you can change them out. :)



The BMS current rating isn't relevant to the phase wire current.
yes, well crimped&tight. i know about d heat to be expected if connection is bad, but i can't check easily.
i would have thought rating is important, as it indicates max Amps to be expected? what i still don't know is how many A there are in d 3-phase AC-wires when i have 40A flowing from battery.
i also noticed only ~17A/850W max on d screen, although i was going uphill and had to help pedaling. i set limits much higher. possible these connectors are limiting current flow? anyway, i ordered MR-60 connectors to rule that out.
 
i would have thought rating is important, as it indicates max Amps to be expected?
It is important, but if in open air many genuine and properly-installed (and properly manufactured of correct metals) connectors will handle a peak or even long burst a fair bit higher than their rating.

I don't know what hte rating is on your bullet connectors in that image.

I've seen that general type used in modified controllers a decade back when people were beefing up assorted controllers for "cheap racing builds", with success where installed correctly, and failure in the many cases where not.

Sometimes those connectors are made of less conductive metals, or ones that oxidize easily, and that reduces their ability to carry current safely.


Personally I prefer Anderson connectors (SB seriess) (wherever quick disconnect is required) or bolt-together ring terminals (where quick disconnect is not required), for high currents.

Where no disconnect is required I prefer to use crimp-on barrels, with interleaved conductors*** on the wires, for high currents.

***imagine two brooms in a line with bristles against each other, pushing the bristles so they overlap...


what i still don't know is how many A there are in d 3-phase AC-wires when i have 40A flowing from battery.
Depending on your controller, it's some ratio that's either set in the controller or specified in it's manual, or it's a direct setting in the controller. AFAICR for PR and BR it's directly set as a phase current limit, but it's been a while since I set mine up.


i also noticed only ~17A/850W max on d screen, although i was going uphill and had to help pedaling. i set limits much higher. possible these connectors are limiting current flow?

If they were limting current they'd be dropping voltage and heating up, probably a lot if the load on the mtoor is high.

Maybe you reached the maximum speed of the motor at the system voltage you have, for those load conditions, so no more current could be fed to it--unlikely.

Or if battery voltage dropped enough, and the controller is set to lower power under those conditions, it might limit below what you set for max.

Or some other limit in the system is coming into play; if you have anything prefiltering the throttle signal to the controller it might do this (like a cycle analyst) if it hits any of it's limits.
 
a little progress....
i was able to UP A/Watts. could only do it with connecting laptop to Baserunner controller - manual says it can all be done via CycleAnalyst, but couldn't do it that way. when i connected laptop i saw controller was still set to max 750W i had set when connecting 1st time. i now increased to 1500W.
so bike took off like a little motorcycle -at least felt that way- went past a radar with 45km/h :cool: also (moderate) uphill road was good, 25km/h, BUT after only 2-3min @ 25-32A (~1400W) uphill power started to decrease slowly but steadily, down to a mere 3A 😵
what could be d reason? overheating, so fast? Baserunner is rated 30A continuous, 55A peak. couldn't feel it, it's hidden inside frame. motor cold (doesn't have Temp.sensor anyway). battery stable @49V.
after a coffee-break it was back to speedy, but again for only a short time.
any ideas?
 
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i was able to UP A/Watts. could only do it with connecting laptop to Baserunner controller - manual says it can all be done via CycleAnalyst, but couldn't do it that way.
The CA can only change CA settings, it has no communication with anything else to be able to change their settings, and no software to know what to change or how to change it.

So the reference to changing these with the CA is only for changing the limits within the CA itself, as it has it's own A and W limits if you are using them.

Normally if you have a controller with a programmable limit set, *and* the CA, you should choose which one's limit set you are going to use, and then set the other one to unlimited (as high as it's settings allow). I would normally choose the limits in the controller, because it will be a faster response cycle as it's all internal to it, the feedback loop is shorter, and it's limits are (should be) able to protect the hardware of the controller while the CA or any other external limiting cannot do that.

If you have both sets of limits in play, it can get complicated to configure a system, and it may be less predictable in behavior under circumstances where both sets of limits interact, or may behave in undesirable ways.


so bike took off like a little motorcycle -at least felt that way- went past a radar with 45km/h :cool: also (moderate) uphill road was good, 25km/h, BUT after only 2-3min @ 25-32A (~1400W) uphill power started to decrease slowly but steadily, down to a mere 3A 😵
what could be d reason? overheating, so fast? Baserunner is rated 30A continuous, 55A peak. couldn't feel it, it's hidden inside frame. motor cold (doesn't have Temp.sensor anyway). battery stable @49V.
after a coffee-break it was back to speedy, but again for only a short time.
any ideas?
If it's only able to do the higher power for a limited time, and then after a sufficient break it is able to do it again, then it is almost certainly temperature limiting inside the controller itself to prevent controller damage.

What kind of temperatures is the BR reaching?
Where and how is it mounted?
Does it have sufficient (or any) airflow?
What kind of heatsinking and cooling do you have on the BR?

Mounted inside the frame, if it's not sufficiently well-connected thermally to the frame, it will overheat from lack of airflow.

On my PRs on the bottom of SB Cruiser, one is mounted to an old thick aluminum L-bracket that was a rack ear mount for some test equipment, and the other is mounted to an even thicker flat aluminum plate with at least as much surface area. boht are in the airflow under the trike, *but* both are also always exposed to the high heat from the road surface, which can reach 150F+ easily here in Phoenix, AZ. Even so, I haven't had a situation yet that caused that to limit current as it takes off from a stop at maximum power just fine even under those conditions (keeping in mind that I only use that power for a few seconds to reach 20MPH, which then only takes a few hundred W from each to maintain when there's no wind).



If it's not the controller doing the limiting, the only other thing in your system that could do it si the Cycle Analyst. If it's limiting, you'll see it on the Diag screen, one button press left of the main screen. There are several leters at the lower left; they should all be lowercase. If any are uppercase, that limit is engaged. You can then investigate your settings to see if the limit is correct or if it needs to be changed to match your hardware, usage, etc.
 
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i worked it again, than took it out of inside d old battery tube (which was a great protected hiding place, including d cables) to check; it was hot - after only 1 minute of riding uphill :oop:
so i now mounted it outside, heat-sinks from both sides. see pics - problem gone :bigthumb:

i was led to believe by manual
"4 Controller Mounting - The Baserunner V6 controllers can be installed either by mounting inside a
downtube battery cradle or externally on the bike"


and its' non-metal design that heat wasn't an issue - wrong 😖
 

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There are battery cradles designed for a controller to go inside them; generally these have metal to the outside that the controller attaches to, or open spaces for the controller's own heatsink to stick out of, etc. These are what the BR was designed to fit into and dissipate it's heat from.

I guess the manual assumes that anyone actually looking for a controller like the BR already has one of these (or intends to use one), or some other situation that it's suitable for. I'd say that calls for an update to the manual, if what you quoted is all it has to say on the matter. ;) (I haven't read the BR manual, but lack of clarity and/or insufficient detail and/or assumptions about reader knowledge is very common in manuals and other information sources generally.)



Any device that creates heat has to have somewhere for that heat to go; if not then it will build up and either cause the device to fail (because few have effective protection against this) or for those that do have protection cause it to shutdown or rollback its output, etc.
 
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