Before I retired used PEEK all the time. It is a high-performance thermoplastic with excellent environmental resistance, dimensional stability, and mechanical strength compared to Nylon. It goes thro' all the grades to those containing glass or carbon fibre. I would prefer to use PEEK instead of a metal gear.
TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.
- Thread starter mbrusa
- Start date
endlessolli
100 W
Yep, Tecapeek from Ensinger Plastics was the local manufacturer I used. I am going to say something daft here what actually is the dimensional difference between the reduction gear assemblies, yes will a "B" type assembly fit into the original mid-drive. Do not know if someone has tried this before. See daft question. Same me taking a very cheap NOS TSDZ2 coaster drive apart and fitting a main gear pawl clutch and pinion into it along with loading the OSF onto the controller, just for my amusement, but it runs and will fit it into a hard tail frame when I have the urge and see what happens.
endlessolli
100 W
endlessolli, hum, that may not bother me to much as I carry if I go a long distance a range extender battery, any way my thought may be to buy one of these PEEK speed reducing shafts as I have both TSDZ2 and TSDZ2B mid-drives to have in stock see which drive shreds it's gear first, if it's the TSDZ2 test fit the PEEK shaft first, if it fits run with it or ask a close friend of mine if I can use his lathe and bore the middle out and press fit the bearings into it. Bugger it, wonder if a TSDZ2B Main gear will fit the TSDZ2 case as well.
endlessolli
100 W
Hello,
Is it possible to have 2 programming profiles with a code to select one or the other profile ? if yes, how can I do this?
Example:
Profile 1
Thank you
Is it possible to have 2 programming profiles with a code to select one or the other profile ? if yes, how can I do this?
Example:
Profile 1
- Accelerator Legal
- MAX speed 25 km/h
- etc.
- Accelerator ON
- MAX speed 45 km/h
- etc
Thank you
O well, just thinking aloud, to be fair I have not had any problems so far with the TSDZ2 mid-drives I have, done the extra bearing mod on them, Bafang / Tongsheng crank arm combo, good grease up, I have torqued the motor lock nut up with the later TSDZ2B serrated securing plate.
Last edited:
Have not tried this myself but thought it is possible in the OSF as it doe's show the 850C which I assume is similar to the 860C v1.3, I do have a reprogrammed 860C v1.3 but have not indulged / played with it yet. I know that if you look later the real programming experts will have answer your question.
docw009
10 MW
With the VLDC5, if you are in the first assist level (ECO) you poke the lights button twice amd the bike is in street mode, with a preset speed limit and a legal throttle or no throttle if you wish. . Otherwise, you can ride in your chosen profile. This function is mapped, I believe, to most of the other displays.
marvin78
10 kW
As stated above, this option is included by using 'street mode enabled on startup'. Then set values accordingly, 250w / 25km/h.
I believe you're correct. The only difference would be how you interact with the menu, which is what changing the display option in the configurator is for.
marvin78
10 kW
I think the only difference is in how much information the display is able to give at one time. XH18 has two lines, error code and speed indicator which it uses. On startup, you're on power level 1 and one press of the light button opens e02 option menu. The speed field then gives a random value, off which the starting number is either 1 or 0 to indicate the status of e02 which is street mode. If you press the light button again while this is displayed, it switches values and e02 starts blinking. By doing nothing, the blinking stops and the changes are applied, if you press the light button before the blinking stops it switches to the next setting e03 and disregards previous changes.
Vlcd5 afaik only uses a single display line, and has a different menu navigation.
It would be nice if we had like a phone app which could live access and change settings on the fly, I even think I read about some firmware version which was supposed to work with a bluetooth addon. Accessing settings through the display is, while certainly handy and possible, 100% not intuitive.
I only know the street mode sequence because I use it, everything else I would have to look at the manual explaining the menu structure and options, due to the displays being limited in the information they can display at one time. I guess that would be fine to change something 'just to test' but even while I could probably use it for that I still rather just configure it in java and flash it just because I don't want to go through the menu structure.
Vlcd5 afaik only uses a single display line, and has a different menu navigation.
It would be nice if we had like a phone app which could live access and change settings on the fly, I even think I read about some firmware version which was supposed to work with a bluetooth addon. Accessing settings through the display is, while certainly handy and possible, 100% not intuitive.
I only know the street mode sequence because I use it, everything else I would have to look at the manual explaining the menu structure and options, due to the displays being limited in the information they can display at one time. I guess that would be fine to change something 'just to test' but even while I could probably use it for that I still rather just configure it in java and flash it just because I don't want to go through the menu structure.
Old info, may be use to someone whilst going thro' my photos. Two photos showing 860c programed using a CP2102 module and a dc - dc step up power module 3 5 12v to 19 - 36v boost converter using APT burn tools. Second two showing how we use to program the TSDZ2.
Attachments
Hello again. I've been doing tests changing the Max Current and the Max Watt this weekend in a trail close to me with roots and steps. I've reached 18A and 900 Watt, and the Overcurrent error has appeared sometimes. I think that the limits that you have put of 8A of threshold can be right for the TSDZ2 with blue gear, but for the TSDZ2B used as a mountain bike probably is to low. The TSDZ2B has a sprag clutch (very useful for those situations when the bicycle gets stuck), and with the peek gear, so, it is much more robust. I think that a new variable in the motor setting page of the value of the Max Current reached could be very useful to know that value, so the right threshold could be set. And another thing that could be useful is the possibility that the user could set the Threshold Current (and the maximum time of that current). Another solution could be the possibility to activate o deactivate the Overcurrent Error check. For me there is no problem to make more tests if needed, and share the results. What do you think, mbrusa? Thanks for your help
Hello oricb, thanks for the tests.
Making the overcurrent control deactivatable is not a good idea.
It is an important protection that I prefer not to leave to the discretion of the user.
I also consider a user-adjustable threshold and time as a last resort.
You have to accept the possibility of unwanted interventions, if it happens twice a year it's fine, twice every trail no.
So the first step is to introduce a check time and try.
I sent you the new version in PM with this change too.
Making the overcurrent control deactivatable is not a good idea.
It is an important protection that I prefer not to leave to the discretion of the user.
I also consider a user-adjustable threshold and time as a last resort.
You have to accept the possibility of unwanted interventions, if it happens twice a year it's fine, twice every trail no.
So the first step is to introduce a check time and try.
I sent you the new version in PM with this change too.
I have a tsdz2 motor installed on my MTB for 4 years, it has more than 10000km , a little noisy, but it works well, and I have already disassembled it several times so I know it very well.
If you have any questions about the mechanics of the motor, I could probably help you
I ended up installing the OSF after 4 years! It's version v20.1C.6-beta-1-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18.
I have a VLCD5 screen. What a joy!! I use the Hybrid mode, I have the feeling of having changed the motor. I love the smoothness at start-up, the high pedaling frequency, it's great. Thanks Mbrusa and all the participants in this project.
I'm not very good at technical English so I would need some clarification for the functions on the screen.
My first question, how to change mode? By default, at startup I chose hybrid mode, how to switch, for example to eMTB mode, I don't quite understand the manipulation to do...
I would probably have other questions but if I can already have the answer to this one...Thanks in advance
Ugo (from France)
If you have any questions about the mechanics of the motor, I could probably help you
I ended up installing the OSF after 4 years! It's version v20.1C.6-beta-1-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18.
I have a VLCD5 screen. What a joy!! I use the Hybrid mode, I have the feeling of having changed the motor. I love the smoothness at start-up, the high pedaling frequency, it's great. Thanks Mbrusa and all the participants in this project.
I'm not very good at technical English so I would need some clarification for the functions on the screen.
My first question, how to change mode? By default, at startup I chose hybrid mode, how to switch, for example to eMTB mode, I don't quite understand the manipulation to do...
I would probably have other questions but if I can already have the answer to this one...Thanks in advance
Ugo (from France)
marvin78
10 kW
TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/manuals/EN-Operating_manual_of _display-TSDZ2-v20.1C.2.pdf at master · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
TSDZ2 Open Source Firmware adapted to VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 displays - emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
github.com
The manual explains how to operate the menu.
As you can see in the manual, you can change the display for "Set Parameter" (L0-E02) and "Auto Display Data" (L0-E03)
Only if you have set "Set Parameter" it is possible to change directly the assist mode from Vlcd5 display.
If you did this already with java configurator, you can change to
- eMTB mode with L3-E02 >> Set assist mode to Level 3 and push light button 2 times
- Hybrid mode with L3-E03 >> Assist mode to level 3 and push light button 4 times
- Power mode, L2-E02 >> Assist mode level 2, push light 2 times
- Cruise mode, L3-E04 >> Assist mode level 3, push light 6 times
If you have as default "Auto Display Data" you can this change to
- "Set Parameters" L0-E02 >> Assist mode level 0, push light 2 times
In summary:
E02 = 2 pushes, E03 = 4 pushes, E04=6 pushes
Ah ok thank you, now I understand. I had not set "set parameter" in java configuratior.
So I must first enable this by L0-E02 and only after I go to L3-E02 and push light button 2 times to have eMTB mode.
Am I ok ?
This afternoon I tried on a longer route (25km and 620m of climbing) the hybrid mode.
With the battery full at 99% and 42.9v, after 3km in a climb I had an error 07, and the assistance cut off. I turned off the screen and restarted, the error was no longer there but I only had 89% left in the battery!
I had no problem, for 15km despite the climbs at more than 20% in the rocks then I had two micro cuts, but without completely cutting the assistance, I just felt that it cut off for a brief moment.
I think it could come from my battery which is not young
At the end of my route I was at 50% and 37v does that seem normal to you?
My motor, 36v 500w, my battery 36v 12.5A
With the battery full at 99% and 42.9v, after 3km in a climb I had an error 07, and the assistance cut off. I turned off the screen and restarted, the error was no longer there but I only had 89% left in the battery!
I had no problem, for 15km despite the climbs at more than 20% in the rocks then I had two micro cuts, but without completely cutting the assistance, I just felt that it cut off for a brief moment.
I think it could come from my battery which is not young
At the end of my route I was at 50% and 37v does that seem normal to you?
My motor, 36v 500w, my battery 36v 12.5A
marvin78
10 kW
Had drivetrain issues today, few times chain got stuck / broken and I got E07 errors.
Didn't seem to bad, lost a quicklink, bought new one at store + spare chain. Way home, chain 'broke' again, quicklink came apart in the derraileur. Chain got stuck between crankset -> instant stop. New E07 warning.
Walked home, put on a new chain and tried to ride some rounds inside the appartment building / gallery.
99.999% I'm missing some teeth
The sound is very... grinding like, just like the assistance feels very very jerky.
I'm stupid, I should have realized the chain was bone dry because of the rain and ice ( salt ). And instead of 'ignoring' it the first time, and just hoping I would make it home, I should have just taken the 'hit' and walked.
'Haastige spoed is zelden goed'
I feel stupid, I was fully aware of E07's meaning.
Didn't seem to bad, lost a quicklink, bought new one at store + spare chain. Way home, chain 'broke' again, quicklink came apart in the derraileur. Chain got stuck between crankset -> instant stop. New E07 warning.
Walked home, put on a new chain and tried to ride some rounds inside the appartment building / gallery.
99.999% I'm missing some teeth
The sound is very... grinding like, just like the assistance feels very very jerky. I'm stupid, I should have realized the chain was bone dry because of the rain and ice ( salt ). And instead of 'ignoring' it the first time, and just hoping I would make it home, I should have just taken the 'hit' and walked.
'Haastige spoed is zelden goed'
I feel stupid, I was fully aware of E07's meaning.
