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Your Creation's Before & After Pics

Well, I have just competed my finest ebike conversion yet--finest as in least expensive. The battery and motor came out of an Aventon Pace 500, which had rim failure at the spoke holes. The bike stuff came out of a pile of free bike parts. About a two hundred dollars, excluding the new tires and tubes.

View attachment 368777

I built the bike for a friend who has COPD, so no pedaling is expected. It's a quick bike.
The before picture is when it was going to be the test bed for an experiment with super capacitors, which didn't happen.

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So you laced up the rim?
 
Yes. I've laced 3 motor wheels to date.
I've laced 1 wheel to date, got it true, hit about 3 curbs, getting it true every time.
Finally I had to give that rim up. Towards the end that thing was micro-warped in about 5 places. 😂😂😂
There was no saving it.
E-bike stuff is heavier, though.
 
I have run 2 of the motors a good amount and have had no problems with the wheels, at least so far.
I used new rims for 2, and a used rim on one wheel. Took more time to true the used rim.
Lacing a wheel is a pleasant winter's evening. Trueing a wheel is a morning thing.
 
How it was going..
dscf2142-jpg.359690


And then:
2-jpg.368308

And now:
bike.jpg
 
I must learn not take any more strays home with me! This was an unwanted bike from a yard sale down the street, so I took it home:

PXL_20250809_191502345.jpg

Of course I just had to put a motor in it:

PXL_20251010_003641716.jpg

Rode it to the top of the hill and it works well. Throttle and cadence PAS. Running at 36v on a test battery.
The labeled 250w motor howls on high loads.
I keep trying to build a decent ebike at low cost, but with this bike I learned a lesson. Don't buy a cheap motor, and then waste your time and money putting it into a wheel.

About $400 into it, but I plan to go to 48v, which with surplus batteries is another hundred.
It goes 25mph on electric as is, which is fast enough. As I already ordered the batteries I might as well see how it does on 48v.
 
I have b
I must learn not take any more strays home with me! This was an unwanted bike from a yard sale down the street, so I took it home:

View attachment 378835

Of course I just had to put a motor in it:

View attachment 378836

Rode it to the top of the hill and it works well. Throttle and cadence PAS. Running at 36v on a test battery.
The labeled 250w motor howls on high loads.
I keep trying to build a decent ebike at low cost, but with this bike I learned a lesson. Don't buy a cheap motor, and then waste your time and money putting it into a wheel.
ink
About $400 into it, but I plan to go to 48v, which with surplus batteries is another hundred.
It goes 25mph on electric as is, which is fast enough. As I already ordered the batteries I might as well see how it does on 48v.
I have bought a couple of the 36 volt 500 watt DD hubs off Amazon they can be run on 48 volts and up to 1000 watts I would think decent quality for a cheap build.
 
Time will tell on this motor. 48v nominal and the controller outputs 22a, that's 1000+w. I do full throttle spurts on the short hills that I ride. The motor is labeled 250w. 1kw might be a reach.
The problem is that orphan bikes keep falling down on me. I rarely get to ride to failure (though I do have 2 failed ebikes at the moment, but runners seem to just materialize.)
Living the dream, I guess.
 
I must learn not take any more strays home with me!
I spotted a 'Muffy' look-a-like (nearly identical to your find above) leaning against a dumpster during our annual clean-up week. Except for the obvious ruptured rear tire, it looked virtually unridden. Not giving it a second glance, I turn my back and began walking away when I remembered a 50ish neighbor lady mentioned to me that she thinking about "getting back into cycling", but didn't have a bike. With that thought still in my head, I turned around and proceeded to haul the damn thing back home. Unable to locate a matching whitewall, I opted to just replaced the failed tire & tube with what I had handy, and deliver it. I've since moved so no clue if she ever rode it,.. or even still has it.

Often I feel I'm doing a disservice to some needy recipient by gifting them a potentially hazardous POS.
 
I often find bikes that show no signs of appreciable use, but the ones that were lower cost new seem to be stored wet. The expensive ones get to live in a garage until they are disposed of. The above bike that I motored had little use and a moderate amount of corrosion.
Below is one of those dry stored expensive bikes (from the late 2000's), and it looked like it had never been ridden. My cost was $100, which is a high priced used bike for me.
PXL_20250629_191839494-EDIT (1).jpg
It just seems such a waste that so many pedal bikes are just cast off, thus I take in the strays. The cheap bikes are taken apart to their elemental form and delivered to the metal recycler. The others are pedaled, or motored. I give, donate, or sell a few each year. Though I worry about liability, batteries in particular.
 
Curious the reasons for landing on a hub motor from the BB mid-drive set up? Did your first set up have the hub motor too?
I killed the BBS02 with my fat ass and hmm..possibly but it was a different one that I have since sold.
That BBS02 is funky. I can get a BBS03 to spin with 36v no problem.
BBS02 wants more than 36v to just spin..with a 36/48v controller.
I think it's damaged. Probably should part it out.
At one point I had the BBS02 and a 71v 25A series battery setup on that one. Breaking chains.
It ripped for a little while.
You can't use the big sprockets and thin chains on Bafang motors.
Last one snapped the chain mid-link, while testing upside down. Yeah, no 9-12 speed chains with Bafang at all.
 
Yeah, kind of seems that the second picture and the third one got mixed up.

Neat to see a bike grow up. 😀
This one grew down to be comfortable.
It went from 72(84)v series hub to 71v BBS02 to 48v and hub. It's still mighty fast for a bicycle.
It's a Triple Triangle G.T. Rides nice. I have too many, should find it a new home.
I got a Fuji for the next project. No kind of disc brake fittings.
It's an older stem, too. Very light. Nice big triangle. Derailleur system is crazy.
You turn the brake lever sideways to switch gears. That most likely will not stay, will need disc brake forks, possibly a stem and headset, I have handlebars and grips and levers. May need a set of levers.
The seat sucks. New seatpost & seat, too. I already have the wheels & tires for it.
BBS03 is what I'm leaning towards for that.
Can either buy a 72-volter or series 2 36v ones I got.
It's a Fuji with "helios tubing". Idk, but it's a nice bike.
 
Hi everybody. It all started when I was given this fork for a 16" wheel (circled in red). The fork is custom and I wanted to use it somewhere.
Before:
Вилка от Татоса.jpg

After:
IMG_20250905_193758_300.jpg
As a result, I built this bike.
FNHON chrome-molybdenum frame (base 980mm), custom fork on trapezoid with shock absorber, carbon steering wheel, saddle and bags - leather, etc.
Engine BBS02 36/500, batteries 36/17 (total).
Transmission 58/19, planetary hub Shimano Alfine 8.
Weight 17.6 kg.
Speed up to 45 km/h, range 35-45 km.

The project cost is about $1,000
 
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And this project started with a steering wheel on which you can install a grip shifter. Next, everything was as usual, i.e. I had nothing but the steering wheel for the bike. Fortunately, it was at this time that I was sorting out one of the projects that I was tired of. Thus, the wheels, transmission, engine, battery, system and all sorts of related trifles were "freed". In fact, the only thing missing was the frame, which was brought from China. I will not describe the assembly process. He is completely banal and uninteresting. I'll only show you the result.Everything turned out as planned. The bike rides and does it very well and fast.The steering wheel (let me remind you that this is a prefabricated structure and the assembly that allows you to implement the grip shifter is made by "Tatos") feels no different from the usual factory one, which is an indicator of the success of the design.

Before:
PXtiYYMulrshWf2ilvUz06EJfB17dz2KXickuQyulY1Ko.jpg

After:
IMG_20251026_110256а.jpg

Perhaps the planetary hub can be attributed to the unusual features, since this is a fairly rare model from Sturmey Archer with 8 upshifts. Otherwise, it's a regular mini E-bike.
Engine: Bafang 36/500;
Battery: 36/25 A/h (15+10);
Transmission: 58T/25T, Sturmey Archer X-RK8w;
Weight: 22.9 kg.;
Speed: up to 60 km/h;
Range: up to 90 km.
Project cost: $375
 
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2nd conversion, done in 2016, Bought the Diamonback Wildwood in 2005 from Dicks Sporting Goods. Thought it was high tech, with its brifter shifters, front suspension, and suspension seat post. Installed a BBs02 in 2016. Originally had a rear rack battery for 8 years, This summer, I mounted a Hailong.

Nothing special, but the BBS02B is quiet/fast. Pulls 26 amps, unlike current motors with a hardwored current limit around 18A.,


compare.jpg
 
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72v with a 1000w rear-hub DD motor.
Like 9C and Voilamart, but CSC instead. 32A on the controller.
Oh! That's where them cranks with the small sprocket went. I was wondering about that earlier.
Yeah, you just pedal a bit and then it's all throttle. This frame, I think it's 17", it handles speed well.
Much moreso than others I've ridden. This is no speed demon, it's a 1000W hub with 32A and a 72v Battery.
It'll do 37 mph max, but it's smooth and long-running. For some reason it doesn't even get full power before the voltage sag gets below 79. During that period it's just whisper-quiet and only goes 26 mph. IMO, it works for me.
The battery is suspended in the triangle with paracord. The controller is lashed to the frame with paracord as well.
 
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I 'liked' a hub motor! My mind must be opening :giggle:
That bike rips! Very stable at high speed, too, unlike my other builds. :(
That pic was 2 36v batteries in series, I have a whomping 72v in it now.
50A battery, just kinda goose the throttle and you're moving.
It has a longer wheelbase. Compared it to others yesterday and it's over 1 foot longer.
And the new build handles somewhere in between a Jeep and CBR600.
Apparently "performance-tuned geometry" means turn on a dime.
Not something that's really necessary for me.
I was slaloming at top speed, and damn! You sneeze wrong and it could go very very wrong.
Not sure if that "nimble" is a good thing.
 
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I was slaloming at top speed, and damn! You sneeze wrong and it could go very very wrong.
Not sure if that "nimble" is a good thing.
Yes there are limits for all machines. I have a motorcycle that will do 300km/h but I've rarely had it over 200, and that on a very predictable few bits of straight road with no traffic around. I wouldn't dream of going max speed on it but it seems common on ebikes which are a hell of lot more unstable. What ebike uses wind forces to plant itself firmer on the road for example? Not that that really works under 150k anyway. I can 45 km/h on my bike and over bumps it will dance like a teenager on ecstasy. Very unsettling. You have to spend thousands to get proper suspension on them and my rear shock and forks are just not in that league. I couldn't imagine riding a fast hardtail on the roads around here. Though once I was ignorant enough to consider it.

I'll probably get a hub motor next, just to cut out all the nonsense with gear changing. I only ever use the throttle riding and the roads around here are mostly all flat anyway.
 
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