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Newbie who wants to convert his bike into an ebike

mike94

🧲 New user
Joined
Aug 27, 2026
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Location
USA
Hello everyone! I'm new in the forum and want to ask you for some advices. I want to convert my bike, which is a regular commuter bike into an ebike, I've been looking for options and E-Switchy catched my attention because I like the idea of a simple hub-motor conversion for everyday commuting, sooo I'd like to ask, has anyone here converted a commuter bike with a hub kit, and what should I check first to make sure the wheel, fork, brakes, and battery setup are compatible? Also, for those who ride a converted bike regularly, what maintenance or upgrades have made the biggest difference for comfort and reliability? Thank u so much for your advicess! :)
 
Hello everyone! I'm new in the forum and want to ask you for some advices. I want to convert my bike, which is a regular commuter bike into an ebike, I've been looking for options and E-Switchy catched my attention because I like the idea of a simple hub-motor conversion for everyday commuting, sooo I'd like to ask, has anyone here converted a commuter bike with a hub kit, and what should I check first to make sure the wheel, fork, brakes, and battery setup are compatible? Also, for those who ride a converted bike regularly, what maintenance or upgrades have made the biggest difference for comfort and reliability? Thank u so much for your advicess! :)
It's similar to a Schwinn Wayfarer
Yes, a vast majority of people here did conversions instead of buying a premade bike. The thing is, a commuter build depends on your specific situation, where you live / what kind of roads, speeds, and inclines you plan to travel, how far, how frequently/what reliability of the system you need to have, maybe climate considerations (rain? Winter?), etc etc.

But one specific thing I want to say is my first conversion was that of a Kent bayside 29in cruiser, and rim brakes are inadequate for daily commutes with frequent stops (as in a city), especially if you are looking at class 3 speeds. Unless you go for a specific setup of a direct drive motor with regen braking and a controller that supports that. Because even if you put the strongest possible pads (koolstop electric grey pads), if you commute regularly or in rainy conditions, your rims will need replacement very soon (within 1 year in my case), and doing that for a large diameter motor wheel will be relatively expensive and not easy for a beginner... My opinion.
 
But one specific thing I want to say is my first conversion was that of a Kent bayside 29in cruiser, and rim brakes are inadequate for daily commutes with frequent stops (as in a city), especially if you are looking at class 3 speeds.
That is absolutely untrue, but still good advice for anyone who is blinkered enough to ride department store garbage.

Good brakes are good, lousy brakes are lousy. Professional downhill MTB racers used to use rim brakes, and '70s Kmart kid bikes used to have Shimano disc brakes. My own bikes have caliper brakes, drum brakes, cantilever brakes, linear pull brakes, U-brakes, coaster brakes, and disc brakes. Any of those will work at Class 3 speeds if they are decent quality and well maintained.
 
To receive the best help quickly please answer the following questions:
I marked the most important ones for you with a (*).

  • What bicycle/car/motorcycle do you have?
  • If you don't have a bicycle/car/motorcycle, which specific one do you intend to get?
  • What exactly do you want the bicycle/car/motorcycle to do for you?
  • * What range do you need, at what speed, under what conditions?
  • What is the minimum time you require for recharging from empty to full?
  • * What speed will you ride at normally?
  • * What is the maximum speed you need out of it, and for how long at a time?
  • What terrain will you ride on?
  • What are the roads like, if it's an on-road system?
  • What are the path conditions like, if it's an off-road system?
  • * What kind of slopes or hills do you have; how steep and how long?
  • What are the wind conditions?
  • What kinds of weather will it be used in, or have to live outside in?
  • * What do you weigh, and what does any of the stuff you would ever carry with you weigh?
  • Does it need to carry cargo of any kind?
  • How to you ride? Do you like to gun the throttle, or just gently acclerate?
  • Do you require quick acceleration, and if so how quick do you need it to be?
  • Or does it not matter, and taking a mile to reach 10MPH would be ok?
  • Do you care about legal status of the system?
(from Welcome Message to New Members)

Here is some material to get you up to speed, so you can start asking more appropriate questions:



 
Go for it... Im well into year 3 of my basic yose-power 250w rear hub drive conversion, and i still smile wide scooting effortlessly uphill on my way home where before it was always a slog to some degree.. (not a big hill but at the end of the day any hill is a HILL.)

My bike is fitted with rim brakes and its a weekly maintenance task to adjust the front brakes. And i learnt rim wear is a thing!!!

The momentum the motor provides will eat brake blocks And your wheel rims if relying on rim brakes, and if fitting a more powerful motor with speed expectations above 15-20mph, i would certainly think twice before relying on rim brakes. more speed more momentum to kill with the brakes...
- Rim brakes can work but are more hassle and a pita.
- Also my bike was fitted with 'stylish' cream coloured tires.. They are now stained black with the mixture of powdered brake block and aluminium from the additional post conversion wear.

when considering a conversion mounting the heavy battery pack centrally and to provide as low a centre of gravity as possible can be crucial. batteries mounted too high up or too far to the back or front can have a detrimental impact on how the bike handles.

Number one on my wish list is a seat post suspension solution, with motor assistance my backside is firmly planted in the saddle for the majority of my motor assisted rides, and as such im significantly more aware of every bump and pothole in the road surface.


As far as the actual conversion goes its little more than a tyre exchange with extra cable management and a few extra bolt ons..
And most kits will come supplied with tools to extract pedals and rear cassettes if needed.

have fun!
 
I want to convert my bike, which is a regular commuter bike into an ebike:)
Well you'll need decent mechanical skills and basic electronic skills, as well as a tool kit appropriate. Then about 2 or 3 weeks of off and on research so you don't make basic mistakes like stripping out delicate aluminium threads or making poor electrical connections. It's not like assembling an Ikea bed. Which are junk btw.
 
I wouldn't convert anything with rim brakes or threaded steerer tube. I believe 29 inch tires also have a superior ride over the smaller sizes. I almost converted an old 90 s mountain bike, am glad I didn't.
 
First conversion was a 1990's Trek 800 Antelope with a 500W rear geared hub. Caliper V-brakes and the famous oval Shimano Biopace crank. Total cost $480. Trouble free for 11 years, and the original 36V battery still has 340 Wh, good for 30+ miles.
R9110455-3.JPG

I did replace the 1" threaded steerer with a suspension fork. Hard to find.

Commuting is a different way of biking to me. I would not want to ride at 20+ mph in car traffic. My conversions have migrated toward lower power ebikes with the intent of maintaining a sporty ride with bikes that accelerate well with pedals. Riding at class 3 speeds with a true torque assist class 3 (no throttle) is a lot of effort for me. I can only do it with cadence sensor bikes where the motor does all of the work,
 
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