I find the resistance quite high, maybe on other bikes (or in a low gear) it works better. But in any case, it takes literally 30 seconds to unclip and remove the motor, and since it's relatively light it's easy to attach it to a bag or rack. On my rack mounted bag I can clip the rotor through the bag handles, and that holds it securely on top.
What's the capacitor in it rated at?
I'd love to see a video of unclipping the BikeOn and attaching it to the rack. Do you wear gloves when you do that?
I was looking at riding my road bike without power for half of my ride, which is usually in the 30-40 mile range.
Don't psych yourself out. Bike weight really only matters when you're lifting the bike. The rest of the time, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.
Nope, don't have to, because I switched to waxing the chain about 1000 miles ago!
As I said (but failed to produce a video...), unclipping takes less time than typing this sentence.
Bike weight does matter if you ride hills or into headwinds. Don’t psych yourself out.
I’m finding all modern shimano mountain derailleurs have this curved arm, but many of their road derailleurs are still in line. Had to dig up an old early 2000s Deore derailleur I’m going to try. I know it can pull to 8 cogs; I’ll see if it can pull to 10.
Well, I weigh 20 times more than my not-so-small battery, so the battery weight is a 5% addition to my struggle uphill. Like going from 6% grade to 6.3%.
The caps are not the bottleneck. Some other components are rated at 65V absolute max, so safe operation is probably around 60V.
Here is a video showing how to install the device (it's an older version, but most steps are the same). To uninstall, simply reverse the process. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Great, thanks. Please keep us posted.
As Gruesome said, it depends on your riding style and terrain. One option is to have a spare battery, and swapping it takes just seconds.
If the whole ride is 30 to 40 miles, then it's very unlikely that you would need a spare battery for the return half, especially since you could keep an eye on the charge (I use a simple voltmeter strapped to the top tube) and lower your speed (or assist level) a bit if it looks like you are getting close to the lower cutoff.
It is expensive, no doubt.(*) Regarding the alternatives, no, I do absolutely not realize that, because it is not true. I couldn't and still can't find a retrofit mid drive with acceptable pedal stance ('Q factor'). All of them are inches, not mm's, inches too wide, compared to the 135 mm or thereabouts Q factor of my Roadlite 6. Maybe borderline acceptable for mountain biking. My alternatives were a front or rear hub motor, but there didn't seem to be good torque sensor options for my PF-86 bottom bracket, and ignoring that (I still don't know whether I absolutely need a torque sensor) I also didn't want to replace a wheel. So the apples to apples alternative would then be to buy the factory e-bike version of my bike. Well, I didn't want a second (third, rather) bike either. So that's that. Your situation might be completely different.
I only see a 10% coupon for xnito, how did you get almost $300 discount?It is expensive, no doubt.(*) Regarding the alternatives, no, I do absolutely not realize that, because it is not true. I couldn't and still can't find a retrofit mid drive with acceptable pedal stance ('Q factor'). All of them are inches, not mm's, inches too wide, compared to the 135 mm or thereabouts Q factor of my Roadlite 6. Maybe borderline acceptable for mountain biking. My alternatives were a front or rear hub motor, but there didn't seem to be good torque sensor options for my PF-86 bottom bracket, and ignoring that (I still don't know whether I absolutely need a torque sensor) I also didn't want to replace a wheel. So the apples to apples alternative would then be to buy the factory e-bike version of my bike. Well, I didn't want a second (third, rather) bike either. So that's that. Your situation might be completely different.
(*): I got a really good deal by ordering via Xnito, and saved almost 300 bucks. Still expensive though, essentially doubling the cost of my bike. Other people of course are a lot more spendy with their biking hobby/affliction...
I think it was a one-time deal, and disappeared pretty much the next day. They offered essentially 20% off ('KEYSTONE PRICING 50.03% MARGIN FOR ORDERS OF 10 OR MORE ($74.70 PER HELMET)'), plus no tax. Maybe the discount was only intended for helmets? Anyways, if you told me the motor was $800, I'd still call that expensive. $600, still not cheap, compared to the price of my bike. It's hard to say what is the right price for such a device. Aram and his wife must have of order 10,000 hours put into this thing in the last 10 years. How many units do you want to recuperate that over? 100? 1000? Probably not 10,000. So, by that measure the unit is horribly underpriced. He's putting a lot more of his own effort and labor into each unit than goes say into a Rolex. And it also goes a lot faster!
