One rad fool

K

klaufer

100 mW
Joined
Oct 8, 2024
Messages
44
Location
Topsail beach nc
Ive got an original radrunner with less than 10 miles. Ive been getting all kinds of replacements free from rad but it has brought no luck. The bike started with not starting off a pushpad. I got the new display which then needed a new controller. I finally exploded after 121 days of a broken bike and said some things to rad bike i sjouldnt have. Now im on my own. I finslly got mine to light the display for about 20 seconds with speedometer, then it'd switch to error 30for 10seconds and thenblack out. I was able to turn thedisplay bsck on by picking the battery up and reseating to get
little bits of energy. It never ran yet. I spent last night reading on error 30 and they said that meant a problem is between the display and battery. The wires and connectors look fine. No chips on the wire outers so it's safe to hold. My only idea is controller is issue because the wires on end have been bent by the bolts to hold controller to bikeDoes that sound right??? I
Is the piece of wire that goes from controller to under pedal supposed to be rigid or is a tiny bit moving ok. Under 1/8" spin and couldn't pull it off.
Shouldn't the display work if it's the only thing plugged into the controller or do all the wires need to be hooked up for any power. Is the harness the same with needing it all plugged in.
Tx. All connections have be rè-done repeatedly and apologize my writing is no better than my mechaniccing.
 
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I got a brain injury so forgive me. I crs. I was going down street crossed one liter of liquid on a flat road that barely sprayed/misted my down leg. It pulled over and was dead. That was a brand new lcd, 1st ride. Could not get bike running w harnesses, controllers, accelerators, cradle or battery. Once months ago after shutdown tire spun under power about 30 seconds. Nothing since. I do admit to sternly flexing the controller wire before being warned. Thanks for answering. If you need any more info I got it.
Tx
 
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Kind of sounds like there was water intrusion. Possibly at the battery cradle, since you’ve checked all other connections at the controller. Can you remove the battery to take a picture of the pins?
 
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Yes, they should be perfect. My mind d let me forget I took battery to a rad repair center where they talked to advanced troubleshooting for a week and got nothing but a free battery The shop was 85 per hour and that's not me. The same local place misread my battery as dead due to bad voltimeter reading by mechanic hence me saving g my 85 per hour. Thanks for help. I have have bled out over this bike. The first two pics are original, next two arenew rad stuff
 

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Ome on guys please. Guesses will all be tried. The part about advanced techs at rad approved shop was only important because 53v was missed somehow. I accept they don't know bikes. The bike only has about 8 wires and I'm stumped and intent of not making it worse. A frame and new motor is all I need to get %100 of 0 mile oem. Will anybody rent their radrunner s/n . It's a serious offer.
 
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Those bikes are difficult to verify things. Such as, verifying voltage to the controller. Rad uses water plugs and can not be probed. The error 30 points to the battery. Since the battery and controller have been replaced and the trouble exists. Your trouble very well could be the battery cradle itself. That’s the only other variable that hasn’t been addressed. With the battery removed and the controller disconnected from the cradle, you should measure no resistance, on the disconnected cradle, between the positive and negative. If you do measure resistance there, then you may need a new battery cradle as well. I’m not familiar with that style of cradle so maybe a visit to a different shop is a good suggestion.
 
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By ome on i intended come on, not home or gnome on. Wow thats the same suggestion as rad. Wow.
I tried to communicate in 2 separate posts I GOT NO MONEY TO PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO GUESS TO LEARN RAD PER HOUR. And which local shop will do better than the one i went to? They were on rads recommended list If anyone else ( guys from yesterday) has any ideas, lemme know. Is there a way to see if controller is outputting power. I only have a multimeter to test with. All the controller wires have alot of pins and I can't figure out how to get a reading.
Tx guys
 
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My impression so far is that error 30 is comms. For my bikes, that's pretty much only either Hall sensors or throttle. A battery would not have any way to trip that error unless it uses some sort of hardware handshake that the controller requires.
 
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slaphappygamer said:
Chalo said:
My impression so far is that error 30 is comms. For my bikes, that's pretty much only either Hall sensors or throttle. A battery would not have any way to trip that error unless it uses some sort of hardware handshake that the controller requires.
Click to expand...

Those bikes are difficult to verify things. Such as, verifying voltage to the controller. Rad uses water plugs and can not be probed. The error 30 points to the battery. Since the battery and controller have been replaced and the trouble exists. Your trouble very well could be the battery cradle itself. That’s the only other variable that hasn’t been addressed. With the battery removed and the controller disconnected from the cradle, you should measure no resistance, on the disconnected cradle, between the positive and negative. If you do measure resistance there, then you may need a new battery cradle as well. I’m not familiar with
Click to expand...
 
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Chalo thanks for jumping in. Is there any way to test the throttle? It is newer but has 2 miles maybe on it. The throttle is the only no rad part, but it ran full speed "perfectly" for 1 mile. I've not heard of Hall sensor. Is that like my PAS system. My little sensor between the pedals is slightly loose but it wont pull off the bike. I think it's from PAS system

Slap happy gamer hello again. Great to have your help. I tried to take two pics of cradle above. One came on bike and the other is brand new from rad with 0 miles. I've kiinda tested inadvertently, I had both batteries in both cradles sitting under the bike so changing battery power attempts were easier. I don't know how to spell the sound of scream but this is under my skin. Just remembered, i tested the female parts of both wires from battery tray and they showed 53v.
Tx again guys, appreciate the help
 
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klaufer said:
Chalo thanks for jumping in. Is there any way to test the throttle? It is newer but has 2 miles maybe on it. The throttle is the only no rad part, but it ran full speed "perfectly" for 1 mile. I've not heard of Hall sensor. Is that like my PAS system.
Click to expand...

If you put 5V on the red throttle wire, GND (0V) on the black wire, and then use a voltmeter between black and signal (usually green or white), you should see a sweep between roughly 0.5V and roughly 4.5V as you work the throttle. If you can measure that, the throttle works.

By Hall sensor wires, I mean the wires connecting the hall sensors in the motor to the controller. The motor should have three heavy wires going in, plus five or six thin wires. Thick yellow, green, blue wires are the motor phases, and thin yellow, green, blue wires are the return from the Hall effect sensors that tell the controller where the motor is in its rotation. Thin red and black are 5V power for the Hall sensors, and white is usually either a speed sensor or a thermal sensor.

Hall effect sensors are in your motor, throttle, and PAS sensor. They sense the proximity of a magnet by changing voltage to indicate the intensity of its magnetic field.
 
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If you put 5V on the red throttle wire, GND (0V) on the black wire, and then use a voltmeter between black and signal (usually green or white), you should see a sweep between roughly 0.5V and roughly 4.5V as you work the throttle. If you can measure that, the throttle works.

By Hall sensor wires, I mean the wires connecting the hall sensors in the motor to the controller. The motor should have three heavy wires going in, plus five or six thin wires. Thick yellow, green, blue wires are the motor phases, and thin yellow, green, blue wires are the return from the Hall effect sensors that tell the controller where the motor is in its rotation. Thin red and black are 5V power for the Hall sensors, and white is usually either a speed sensor or a thermal sensor.

Hall effect sensors are in your motor, throttle, and PAS sensor. They sense the proximity of a magnet by changing voltage to indicate the intensity of its magnetic field.


Chalo and everyone else. I learned a trick to see if the driveline even has power for display and it won't light up. I believe this has me back towards checking the controller as I know it's getting 53v from the cradle wire. Any ideas?? Happy Thurs to all. The Cosby show was on Thurs.
Thanks to readers and posters. FromChalosv Post above. I haven't checked three hole connectors yet with three pins as I'm pretty confident I got no power
tx
 
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Hello all. Do you guys and gals have any weekend ideas I can slowly try. I believe my driveline of 4 isn't working. Is there a trouble shooting that would point out the bad one between the harness , controller, battery and display. have no power with just these 4 components I get no display but I know cradle is putting out 53v. And is it ok my pas sensor will spin 1/8"? If know it's past driveline but only want to wait once for rad shipping. Gnome on guys. I can't do anything close without your experience.
Tx everyone and have a great weekend.
 
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You could always buy a generic sensorsless controller and paired display. That would work with your motor even if the hall sensors are dead.

I don't need it since I have a Baserunner controller which has the Phaserunner suite with a diagnostics screen which can show you things like the hall sensors tripping as you spin the wheel, but there are also cheap motor testers out there:

Makes it easier than trying to supply power to the motor's hall sensors and keep your volt meter on the ground and signal lines and try to detect pulses as the wheel spins.

Looking at the bright side, you have a battery that has voltage. That's the expensive stuff. I see broken ebikes with no battery go for $20-$50 on Facebook marketplace all the time.
 
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Inanek, thank you very much for helping.
1) will sensorless controller will be whole controller for bike? Display lights brake grips etc?I'm ok for now with motor. I zoomed in and saw a "controller" connector. Would I need an adapter kit if I used it as a just as a controller tester, I've tried to fix this thing by elimation all summer. If make things easier, do I need to go ahead and replace pas sensors to start this? I can't do this 4 component driveline beside bike on ground to make work easier right?. There's no reason to keep it on bike right?. Will the sensorless be 1 more thing to break? I just want it to run normal ,faster is better but not worth alot. I s it likely I'd have 2 blown controllers? Are they that common broken? Are they that delicate, they were very recently both brand new too rad original from factory. Is there a plug and play that's pretty good that won't take adaptation. Does sensorless take any kind of controller power
4) Tx all ideas appreciated
 
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If these $100 generic comtrollers fix theissues with rad controllers. It would seem like everyone would just shell out the extra.controller money for a rad that works Are there any good kits, not top of the line, that are sensorless that would work well enough. Do I need to get new brake grips if I get the rest in a kit. I've been reading area31, Bolton or electoroguide ere good brands, any ideas?. a kit like this would completely limit rads performance to battery and motor, right? I don't Want to chase rbroken rad parts around the bike if another controller could lock Rad out. How much would a kit someone'd want actually cost? It couldn't take longer than a couple hourrs to hook up this new 3rd party "harness" , right? Id be wiĺing to pay the extra 150$ if i knew that would fix my problem.Sorry if a tough read , I get worked up over this bike.
Any help anyone ?
 
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