One rad fool

klaufer

100 mW
Joined
Oct 8, 2024
Messages
43
Location
Topsail beach nc
Ive got an original radrunner with less than 10 miles. Ive been getting all kinds of replacements free from rad but it has brought no luck. The bike started with not starting off a pushpad. I got the new display which then needed a new controller. I finally exploded after 121 days of a broken bike and said some things to rad bike i sjouldnt have. Now im on my own. I finslly got mine to light the display for about 20 seconds with speedometer, then it'd switch to error 30for 10seconds and thenblack out. I was able to turn thedisplay bsck on by picking the battery up and reseating to get
little bits of energy. It never ran yet. I spent last night reading on error 30 and they said that meant a problem is between the display and battery. The wires and connectors look fine. No chips on the wire outers so it's safe to hold. My only idea is controller is issue because the wires on end have been bent by the bolts to hold controller to bikeDoes that sound right??? I
Is the piece of wire that goes from controller to under pedal supposed to be rigid or is a tiny bit moving ok. Under 1/8" spin and couldn't pull it off.
Shouldn't the display work if it's the only thing plugged into the controller or do all the wires need to be hooked up for any power. Is the harness the same with needing it all plugged in.
Tx. All connections have be rè-done repeatedly and apologize my writing is no better than my mechaniccing.
 
No i have not figured out the problem. I "believe:" my battery and a harness are good so it only leaves display and controller right? And nothing afterr the display should take the displays power? My biggest fear is to spend FULLprice on more zRAD brand that didnt wotk rightthe first time. Rad has exhausted myself and my poor bike Do the wires that join through 8 pin connectors have 8 wires in them?
Thanks for link, I haven't been able to find this either. And I'm getting tired of no returns at rad. I keep writing how much rad gave me free but I wasted alot of money w rad for nonreturnable parts and money is tight.. Is this as near plug and play as it gets? Nobodies jumping in to say I can "easily" read faults with the tester.
I really appreciate all the help and don't mean to sound dismissive, this is mainly all over my head.
Thanks, Kiry
What would a cheaper set not have that this one does? Reliability over performance. ( I don't want to be slower)
Tx
Wouldnt even the cheapest controller and display tell me if the rad brandvwill work?
 
good after water exposure killed the bike. I prefer the more expensive programmable Grin controllers myself, though
I don't see any mention of sensorsless support on that upgrade kit. I'd rather buy a generic controller and display combo off AliExpress with that and splice wires rather than gamble the hall sensors in the motor are still good after water exposure killed the bike. I prefer the more expensive programmable Grin controllers myself, though.

Upgrade controllers are for slotting into a working system to bypass speed limited stock controllers. You don't have a working system. At this point you'd be better off buying a full acoustic to ebike conversion kit and selling off any spare parts you end up with.
How much should this generic controller cost? Is their any connection I need to make sure is on there because I can't do it? Like an 8 pin or something. Tx much. Rereading posts is illustrative.
Thanks much
 
I looked at area 31 and they show no controllers for prompt. On back order. I think they're with bolton now. Is there any other brand of controller and display geared towards rad bikes. Like area 31 upgrade kit. I see one wire has alot small wires in it. That would be less than ideal forme to try. My controller has 5 wires that are mainly male & female plastic connectors. I'll buy today if anyone gives a go aheD. Are there conversion pieces for my round connectors to attach to the new rectangle connectors.
Tx all
 
I looked at area 31 and they show no controllers for prompt. On back order. I think they're with bolton now. Is there any other brand of controller and display geared towards rad bikes. Like area 31 upgrade kit. I see one wire has alot small wires in it. That would be less than ideal forme to try. My controller has 5 wires that are mainly male & female plastic connectors. I'll buy today if anyone gives a go aheD. Are there conversion pieces for my round connectors to attach to the new rectangle connectors.
Tx all
There are many types of connectors. You’ll need to decide which type you prefer, and change them out as needed.

I suggest you acquire the tools and connectors required to undertake a conversion:

DIY Newb - Component builder/upgrader (some or all components were not purchased as part of a kit)

Tools:
Required: Hand tools for installation; Digital Multimeter (DMM); soldering iron and/or crimpers; some installations may require connectors, heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, etc.
Optional: motor tester

Read this article to gain a general familiarity with the process you’ll be going through:

Please provide your budget.
 
Thanks. I've gotta sit to take those in. Budget is a weird word. If someone can send me a component when I'm in a tantrum maybe 200ish if its plug in etc. I am positive the barrier to movement is something stupid and not"real". If it something big I can go higher to put in something for speed. ( thats not what i want but what ill doThat's been the way on other things if bikes are priced like that. I've gott a multimeter but I AM NO STUD WITH IT. Learned voltimeter for cart (1-48) and he infinity sign that beeps and tells if a circuit is open. I really only know the labor of stuff but ive wired large jobs. Anybody on here wanna earn loot using juliet ends and im pretty sure higo. What is going rate to put JULIET ends on I wires. I could send controller to whoever and they could send it to me with ends. Ebike startups??? If the controller has the wrong number of wires out, does that make it not compatible with a controller. Is 5 wires always going to cover the same things as my 5 wire controller or could a 5 wire not work. Thanks again for above on connectors.
Tx to all
 
I know above sounds really ignorant but I've wired cars, boats, golf carts and even a poor job running wires in my house. Strong vibration cuts off lights downstaiirs but I try what I can.
Thanks for help
 
No. 994 gave nothing. He said to go to the great shop I'n my great car and pay them great $. None of those exist here. He wouldnt even pass on the name of the good shop in my area should i find. His other idea to just use an unavailable upgrade kit isn't really what I was looking for. I really appreciate the upgrade suggestions i got until it was determined none are out their to buyThe old mechanic I was using had the same laissez-faire ideas but those can only be so helpful. This site has seemed so helpful.
I just figured out the connector articles was a place that sold connector converters. Thanks for helping out.
Does anyone know, are all 5 wirec ontrollers interchangeable ? I know amps and wattage.
Thanks all
 
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Sorry if you guys feel I solicited you inappropriat ly. I was planning on diy . I was just looking for connector and controller help. My offerr of employment was in jest. Now if someone wants to..... f that's not here my apologies.
 
Worth pointing out you'll rarely have to deal with a 5 pin connector anyway. The only pins used on the battery are the two large ones, negative and positive. The small center ones don't matter and are just ground if anything.

The only other 5 pin connector would likely be the display with tx/rx/power/ignition/ground - but random controllers are not compatible with random displays - even if you buy the same model number display from a different company. So any controller you buy other than from your original OEM typically comes with a display it works with. You can't mix and match. So the connectors between controller and display will match.

It's easy to buy connectors with pigtails instead of soldering or crimping to a bare connector. Then you just have to join wires. There are low temperature solder seals that let you do that with a hair dryer instead of a soldering iron too:
 
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