One rad fool

[klaufer]

Ive got an original radrunner with less than 10 miles. Ive been getting all kinds of replacements free from rad but it has brought no luck. The bike started with not starting off a pushpad. I got the new display which then needed a new controller. I finally exploded after 121 days of a broken bike and said some things to rad bike i sjouldnt have. Now im on my own. I finslly got mine to light the display for about 20 seconds with speedometer, then it'd switch to error 30for 10seconds and thenblack out. I was able to turn thedisplay bsck on by picking the battery up and reseating to get
little bits of energy. It never ran yet. I spent last night reading on error 30 and they said that meant a problem is between the display and battery. The wires and connectors look fine. No chips on the wire outers so it's safe to hold. My only idea is controller is issue because the wires on end have been bent by the bolts to hold controller to bikeDoes that sound right??? I
Is the piece of wire that goes from controller to under pedal supposed to be rigid or is a tiny bit moving ok. Under 1/8" spin and couldn't pull it off.
Shouldn't the display work if it's the only thing plugged into the controller or do all the wires need to be hooked up for any power. Is the harness the same with needing it all plugged in.
Tx. All connections have be rè-done repeatedly and apologize my writing is no better than my mechaniccing.

 

[klaufer]

Above was supposed to ask
1) can I rebuild bike w 3rd party wires
2) will it work with rad motor
3)What kind of components do I need in kit
4) I can't find sensorless controller
5) will the 1/8" pas spin make electricity act broken
6) the controllers I see appear to be missing the 2 wires on the other side from compo ent wires. How do I hook up pas and wheel power.
7the big 3 companies appear the same price which is a little too high. Is there a 3/4 pricenrand thats good. Id rather have reliability than speed.
Thanks
I thought I posted above yesterday

 

[slaphappygamer]

The rad upgrade kit may be a good solution for you. It is expensive, but there would be no limits. I’ve seen lots of youtubes that this is a good kit. Read the documentation towards the bottom of the product description for your bike so you set the parameters properly.

 

[klaufer]

Anyone know how to diagnose if I broke a controller wire. I read somewhere about being able to fix the wire. I don't know if just to diagnose or to fix the wire completely. I tried to read a lot this weekend to get up to speed but articles seem to use ebike vernacular .
Tx
Are there really 68 mph scooters? That seems like a bad idea to me.

 

[klaufer]

The rad upgrade kit may be a good solution for you. It is expensive, but there would be no limits. I’ve seen lots of youtubes that this is a good kit. Read the documentation towards the bottom of the product description for your bike so you set the parameters properly.

My big fear is rad brand. I'd love to get aftermarket that isn't rad so I can do just 1 rewiring and be done. My fear is rad stuff will keep the mystery that's in the bike now. I could hook the kit up unattached to see if it powers and then strip old electronicsg Why wouldn't people spend an extra 2-300$ to make their rad work vs trrashing 1700$ bikes?
As always , Tx for helping

 

[klaufer]

Is this much wiggle on pas enough to break it?. When someone above spoke of driveline, controller harness cradle and display, would that matter if orange pas wire went to broken sensor a 5 th wire
Because I played the out in order and tried to test each combo of what I have in components but said wait, if I'm misunderstanding even another 30 combos wouldn't work. ( got doubles and triples of everything from rad over summer but nothing worked. They sent free stuff to make me quiet but it backfired)

 

[klaufer]

3 full hours of tribulation and ive made a 1st youtube video of my rotating PAS sensor. I think this could be important? I might be to broke but I can't even find sensorless controllers on internet. I'm cool with leaving pas on if if it doesn't rerad the works.

 

[klaufer]

 

[E-HP]

Consider selling the bike as-is. If you stop messing with it, it could be an easy fix, and since it’s basically new, you might get a decent price, and it could be a win win.
Nowadays everyone wants an ebike, but they’re really aren’t made for everyone. There’s nothing wrong with a regular old bike as long as you’re out having some fun and getting exercise.

 

[klaufer]

EHP
Your post reeks of wisdom but aren't I close now? I can't see anything to save my life. If someone here can Help with mine, I'll give them the extra pieces I no longer use. I was ready for disappointment but not being g crushed. I was a salesman for 10 years and have nothing left to give. In my video above, is that too much spinning on the PAS?I could see if bolton controller powers just drivelineand then add 1 compon,en t at a time right?.
EzHP ill go ahead and give you credit for a really wise post
I like the sell it before I break it part. That's me %100.

Thanks to all for helping out. This is something dumb that can be fixed with a tighter connection or compromised wire
Tx, kiry

 

[E-HP]

My thought is your original problem was with the battery and cradle, with water intrusion causing the signal wires (3 small pins) to trigger the battery to shutdown. Too many parts have been swapped out to tell if that’s still the problem or the only problem. Your pics imply that both the battery and cradle were replaced, which means you have the old cradle and its cable to sacrifice for testing. That’s where I would start, since you can open up the cable enough to probe whether the battery is shutting down, then go from there.

P.s. the PAS unit appears to be the single piece self contained type. As long as the whole unit is not spinning around when you turn the crank, it should be fine. Also, if you go down the guessing route, rather than methodical testing, with patience and discipline, chances of creating more issues are high and ability to diagnose the issues much more difficult.

Q: was all that earlier work performed under warranty (before you blew up and severed the relationship)? With only 10 miles, you’d think they would need to fix or replace it, maybe not by warranty, but maybe some type of state lemon law, etc. If they replaced the battery under warranty, they may have been being generous, since the warranty specifically excludes water related damage.
Does that mean you have 2 potentially good batteries now? That would be a good selling point (fixer upper with extra parts and battery).

 

[klaufer]

Hello , thank you for helping
I'm getting 53v readings from the females on cradle exit on both. Does that say the same thing?I went from one new piece to fix it to only needing a frame and motor brand new
Thanks for PAS sensor heads up!!! It's hard to work on anything not knowing if you've got the basics
They were being extremely generous. I would buy one"display" and it wouldn't work, so I'd keep demanding a new one until they admitted it wasn't broken to begin with. No returns. Then we'd go to next piece same thing. All I want is a running ebike. Unless I can get my driveline fixed it could just be a big box of broken parts with 0 miles on yhem
Last night's attempted reading was on the testers suggested earlier. I see from you tube how to do it from afar. But is it easy to hook up gator clips to the wiresfor testing
The terrifying thing about popping something open is not knowing if you've got the working one or not
What breaks in a harness? I spent the night reading about 3.5 amp upgrades if ithe kit hads all the wires to bolt on plug and play whole bike. And I have voltimeter test both batteries at 53. I'd rather put in 300 more than lose 800. With everything I have partswise. And Making sure 1 last time, THE DRIVELINE HOOKED TOGETHER WILL POWER DISPLAY (with all other wires disconnected, including no pas hooked up) rightt?
Thanks guys, please keep them coming
The bike is a 2018 regular not plus
Tx

 

[klaufer]

The rad upgrade kit may be a good solution for you. It is expensive, but there would be no limits. I’ve seen lots of youtubes that this is a good kit. Read the documentation towards the bottom of the product description for your bike so you set the parameters properly.

Are these kits complete enough to get everything old stock from rad off bike or do you need to reuse. Ive got a gremlin in old setup and im stripping everythings Is here a name for the type connectors a rad uses to make sure I'm plug and play
Tx

 

[E-HP]

Making sure 1 last time, THE DRIVELINE HOOKED TOGETHER WILL POWER DISPLAY (with all other wires disconnected, including no pas hooked up)

If you disconnect everything and get the display to power up, then connect the motor and see if the display still works. If so, check the throttle connector from the controller to make sure you still have a 5v supply. If so, connect the throttle and see if the motor moves. Adding component by component may reveal if there’s a short or bad brake cutoff switches, etc. causing/triggering the problem.

 

[slaphappygamer]

I haven’t installed one, but there are videos. Like this one. Yes, looks like you would use all the stock equipment.

Are these kits complete enough to get everything old stock from rad off bike or do you need to reuse. Ive got a gremlin in old setup and im stripping everythings Is here a name for the type connectors a rad uses to make sure I'm plug and play
Tx

 

[klaufer]

I'm terrified of stock rad stuff. I paid 1599 for the bike and theyve sent me 1250$ total in newparts before the new ul battery ,a brake light extension and brake light and still cant figure the problem. I tried to hook up the 4 driveline and can't get any juice to show in display. I started relationship w rad selling me stuff that made no difference in being broke down. If I have trouble in the driveline, is there any reason if I rebranded the wires why it still wouldn't work. The tester looks perfect if connections are easy enough to make and it's written in big letters. Any good brand? They go for like 10-mid 30s$ would love to find one geared towards rad bikes
Tx all, promise to take petty rad problems away once I'm rolling.
Kiry

 

[lnanek]

I don't see any mention of sensorsless support on that upgrade kit. I'd rather buy a generic controller and display combo off AliExpress with that and splice wires rather than gamble the hall sensors in the motor are still good after water exposure killed the bike. I prefer the more expensive programmable Grin controllers myself, though.

Upgrade controllers are for slotting into a working system to bypass speed limited stock controllers. You don't have a working system. At this point you'd be better off buying a full acoustic to ebike conversion kit and selling off any spare parts you end up with.

 

[klaufer]

You were nice enough to use little words and I'm still missing it. Are you saying I should buy a complete kit.
If i get the driveline attached with power out of the controller and display cuts on. Will using old brake levers etc bring back raddemons? Makes a good argument for 20$ tester unless it takes any skill to use. Somebody told me my movie's PAS shouldn't be a problem and I'm incapable of finding a sensorless controller so I might leave ZPAS or is that just leaving more rad crap on. I can't believe the driveline isn't running because of a brand new battery or new harness. That only leaves the 35 amp controller w sensors and it's display. Isn't that safe??? Going up to 35 is dumb but I have to overdo everything. I got a golf cart that truly flies. Somewhere in 40,s topped out. It probably only got 12 miles. For me it's the journey??????
Many thanks for reading and helping

 

[klaufer]

Is it as easy as wire nuts to attach the wires?
Any good brands for acoustic kit? How much are we looking at$$?
Is it worth testing if cutting and reconnecting wires to connect to testers isnt a deal breaker.
I would jump high in the air with glee if a 15$ tester took away any mystery. Fwiw I live on a flat barrier island with14' of elevation change so falling off on hill wheelies shouldn't be a problem. (probably)
Thanks

 

[klaufer]

I read last night that a controller can be tested by using a multimeter inside the controller.
Would this work on a radrunner.
Can I do this in my lap or does it need to be hooked up to all the bike wires. I'm pretty sure not attached to battery at the time but that leaves 5-6 wires. Above it was mentioned about water plugs. Can I use a tester to test some parts of a rad? Prices seem to run about $100 to 300 bucks for a display and controller. Any chance they're all about the same. Someone mentioned generic above and that's ok with me if they work.
3) hall sensors shouldn't affect driveline power right? I'll ignore hall concerns until I get a powered driveline if I can. I think a controller and display will fix things?????
Tx
How do I need to watch wattage on a new controller. I see controllers with 1000-1500 wattsand I'm worried about damaging the ebike. I have an original 2018 radrunner. I think it's a factory supplied 750 watt unit.
Tx much
Day 5, still. Can't find sensorless unless I'm looking at too cheap a stock

 

[klaufer]

I'm also seeing alot have turn signals and the halls in addition to everything else. Can I just leave those disconnected?
Tx

 

[E-HP]

If you’ve moved on to a full conversion, then you might want to start a new thread in the EBike Build subforum. There is also an EBike Prebuilt Hacking subforum, but since you’re replacing a lot of components, it’s more like a conversion/build.

 

[lnanek]

For sensored controllers, a lot will show an error if the halls don't work, not power anything. So if you intend to ignore the hall sensors and not hook them up, you'd need a sensorsless or dual mode controller.

The Grin Baserunner controller I use first tries sensored start, then falls back to sensorsless, with the current settings I have. Since it's dual mode and programmable you can just boot up Phaserunner suite and pick one or the other, though.

 

[klaufer]

I thought by full bike conversion, it just meant replacing all 8 wires and 4 components. Like it could be zop tied up side of bike and cut others Im not sure how much either will cost. Mainly want reliability for my blue moon rides. On the controllers i checked out last nigh included displays. Im positive one of two 53 volt batteries has to work, can't believe 1 of 2 harnesses won't work. So that is all 4 for driveline. I think I've been told if I can't get display up. Nothing will get power. Then starting at $130 ( up to 400s)they sell complete kts with brakes and everything. I know I don't need to send or receive texts toʻ my controller owner as long as I can adjust its draw on bike to an ok level. I've always blamed my 4 total controllers. If it's the contoller, it'd just be wire nut, plug and play huh?
Thanks for responding

 

[klaufer]

I checked out the grins and they seem like they'd be a top of the line. Is that a better spent 130$ than to get the total kit. I've programmed my cart a few times but only once per controller. Bolting in has been extent of my controlling. Could it hurt anything to order one off amazon, check if it works, return if no good and then start looking for what I need?
Tx
I don't want to "fry" anything

 

[99t4]

Simple question for you:

Have you figured out where the problem is?

If it's the controller or display or in between, consider an upgrade kit that has a good reputation:

Upgrade Kit

area13ebikes.com

https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/r7gbql