E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Question for all the Bomber owners...and wannabe owners...
If you were looking at buying a used Bomber with a new battery, would you prefer;
21S5P (77V 25AH)
80kph
50-80km range
About 10kg

or

18S10P (66V50AH)
70kph
70-120km range
About 15kg

I can see pro's/cons to both so really not sure which way to go.

Cheers
 
Is it ok to block off these holes?
Eg put a bit of tape over the holes
What are/were they for?View attachment 360566
Those holes are to help with venting humid air out of the hub, completely sealed hub motors tend to rust. Even where I live in the very dry Churchill County of Nevada where our average annual rainfall is about .9" per year, I was surprised to see a dust of rust the first time I split the 5403 on my bomber. After I vented the motor, never had a rust issue again.
 
Question for all the Bomber owners...and wannabe owners...
If you were looking at buying a used Bomber with a new battery, would you prefer;
21S5P (77V 25AH)
80kph
50-80km range
About 10kg

or

18S10P (66V50AH)
70kph
70-120km range
About 15kg

I can see pro's/cons to both so really not sure which way to go.

Cheers
18s 10P is what I would want.
 
Well I had (I suppose somewhat unrealistic) extremely high hopes so now comes the reality.
There's been some niggly stuff not right and some QC disappointments which isn't great.
It's easy this early stage to gloss over all the things it does well and it does do many things well.
It's already taken me places my other bikes couldn't so that's a big win.

However, I would gladly give up half the speed to gain twice the low RPM torque.
More turns of winding or more poles or whatever, I'm not sure what's available (if anything)

View attachment 360369
Be nice if it kept turning the tyre going up this.
It didn't lol.
Understand that, between pages 100 and 300 in this thread, I experimented with different motor stator turn winds and different rim sizes to get more thrust/mechanical advantage out of the Bomber and Fighter. I eventually settled on the 5404 with a 17x1.4 rim running Shinko SR241 2.75 and 3.00 tires. But I tried 17, 18, and 19" MC rims on different motors.
 
Question for all the Bomber owners...and wannabe owners...
If you were looking at buying a used Bomber with a new battery, would you prefer;
21S5P (77V 25AH)
80kph
50-80km range
About 10kg

or

18S10P (66V50AH)
70kph
70-120km range
About 15kg

I can see pro's/cons to both so really not sure which way to go.

Cheers
For me I would prefer the extra range and accept the extra weight.
I personally think now that ebike laws are pretty clear and well known ++ crazy speeds are less appealing to the discerning gentleman like myself.
That said though "top speed" is always a high note to the new hooligan. And they now buy Surron.
 
Understand that, between pages 100 and 300 in this thread, I experimented with different motor stator turn winds and different rim sizes to get more thrust/mechanical advantage out of the Bomber and Fighter. I eventually settled on the 5404 with a 17x1.4 rim running Shinko SR241 2.75 and 3.00 tires. But I tried 17, 18, and 19" MC rims on different motors.
Thx for both replies Rix.
I've been chatting away with Stealth and they/we have come up with something similar and available. Just waiting on a quote to see how much it's gonna hurt😬
Having a Summer Street Speed wheel and a Winter TQ off-road rock hopper trials wheel to swap between would be mucho cool.
 
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Question for all the Bomber owners...and wannabe owners...
If you were looking at buying a used Bomber with a new battery, would you prefer;
21S5P (77V 25AH)
80kph
50-80km range
About 10kg

or

18S10P (66V50AH)
70kph
70-120km range
About 15kg

I can see pro's/cons to both so really not sure which way to go.

Cheers
If it was just between those two choices, 21S5P (77V 25AH)
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'm leaning towards the 18S10P option as I would want that myself if looking to buy and 70kph is still plenty fast enough, plus hot off the charger it is likely to be 75kph and with 50AH it should barely sag at all.
Also to me, the Bomber has always been about range and indestructibility, not all out speed or agility, so this should suit it nicely.

Cheers
 
Question for all the Bomber owners...and wannabe owners...
If you were looking at buying a used Bomber with a new battery, would you prefer;
21S5P (77V 25AH)
80kph
50-80km range
About 10kg

or

18S10P (66V50AH)
70kph
70-120km range
About 15kg

I can see pro's/cons to both so really not sure which way to go.

Cheers
21s x5p they way to go for my money.
 
It's been awhile but just wanted to post up that I found B-52 #273 at a yard sale in SF two weeks ago. I was told by the sister of the original owner that he (Steven), really loved that bike but had passed away unfortunately while at an amusement park. I promised I would honor her brothers memory and return the bike to running condition.

This being the third B-52 I've purchased used, I knew it was probably worse than it appeared and boy was I right. I have become a bit of a Stealth parts hoarder so I promised myself that this was a good way of getting rid of (or consolidating) all my spare parts I have accumulated over the years. 😉 I know the Suron stuff is all the rage right now with wheelie kids, but I still prefer the silence, performance the ability to ghost pedal that I get with a Bomber. Not to mention, actual plated Stealth Bombers are some of the rarest mass produced ebikes in existence.

-The battery was actually so swollen it took multiple grown men to get it removed from the frame and when placed on the charger it immediately caused a "thermal event" in the driveway so into the dunk tank the pack went, for a week. I happened to have 100 Molicel P45B 21700 (from a group buy) and an ANT BMS laying around so I built a 21s X 5P pack.
-The controller was some kind of knock off Sabvaton that never actually worked, so I ripped it out (along with the cycle analyst) threw on an (OG Pre Covid) Nucular 12f controller. What a powerful little controller that's not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes. I had to do 5 years of Firmware updates on the controller and the screen all via Micro USB 😭
-Even just pedaling the bike felt really out of balance as was crazy amounts of rear axle play due to bad bearings and both inter tubes had Fix a Flat, which is messy stuff. Replaced bearings with spare SK 6005 and 6004 bearings that I had laying around. Also changed the stater with a spare I had as one hall sensor wasn't registering at all and the other two where showing 0-2v (should be 5vdc), when a magnet was passed over them. Also found an intermittent short on one of the phase wires where somebody had done a shoddy repair. Halls will be here in a week but I wanted to ride so in went the spare stator in a Moto wheel and extend soldiered on the appropriate XT150 and crimped on connections to match the Nucular 12f.
-Swapped in a set of 3" riser bars / changed the grips and put new brake pads on front and back.
-The Rock Shocks are pretty much blown out and need to be replaced, my other B-52 has a set of $1500 Fox 40 air shocks on it but I just cant bring myself to spend more on a pair of shocks than have in the entire bike. Maybe I'll ask for them for Christmas?

After nights of "tuning rides" where sometimes I had to push or peddle home, I decided to throw a full charge on the new battery and crank up the phase amps and the Flux weakening to stretch her legs a bit. Knowing these are older and not super efficient Crystalyte hubs I wanted to see how much heat I'd be generating (in the motor, battery and controller) over a few miles of consistent 70-100% throttle and regen. I was able to hit 62 mph on the GPS, tucked and the motor was pretty warm to the touch the controller was far cooler than the Sabvaton on my other Bomber that is 2-3x the size of the 12f.


YardSale.jpg

21sx5p.jpg
#273.jpg
 
I appreciate the write up! I know what it's like restoring these things and it takes a bit of love a lot of $$$ and a ton of time to do it right!
As nice as it can be you don't have to go all out on suspension. A good set of newer Rock Shox is still good enough for most applications.

Cheers
 
@Cowardlyduck do you know if the stock stealth fighter will work with 60v?
I've got the new Fighter and have been getting some limited information through John at Stealth and Kenny at Crystalyte. And Kenny quite quickly turned me back to Stealth.
I need more TQ and am willing to trade off kph.
I have searched and not found any information anywhere else. So let me know if you do find another source otherwise, I suggest an email to Stealth.
 
Depending on what you're willing to do and how much you care about warranty, the way you used to get a bit more torque back in the day on older controllers was a shunt mod. If unsure what that is I suggest googling it.
Still works if you have an older style controller, not sure about newer units though.

Cheers
 
Depending on what you're willing to do and how much you care about warranty, the way you used to get a bit more torque back in the day on older controllers was a shunt mod. If unsure what that is I suggest googling it.
Still works if you have an older style controller, not sure about newer units though.

Cheers
Thx. Yeah infact Stealth brought that up (albeit a bit scant on details) during our discussions. And now I've searched here and on the intertube to find out the how to and why it works.
I don't think the current controller is particularly modern or high tech. 60A Crystalyte square wave. So could well benefit from the mod.

For the moment though my thoughts are to save the Wh/range and gain TQ through a smaller diameter wheel and a slower wind of motor. (I find the stock setup overly aimed at speed which looks good in the brochure and probably suits some. It is fast and good onroad and smooth trails)

The smaller Fighter battery has decent range now for me while riding with range in mind.
Theory tells me the range should be the same with wheel and wind changes.

Saving the shunt mod till last if needed.
Then worry about range😬
 
What you say makes sense, however.....the 60A Crystalyte is the same one they've been using for years, so yeah, shunt mod would work on it still.

Honestly, I would recommend trying the shunt mod first. It's a far easier/cheaper way to get more torque. Just keep an eye on temps. The smaller wheel is also a good idea, but a fair bit of effort.
I wouldn't recommend a slower wound motor though. I tried that (initially at Stealth's suggestion) many years ago, and while it will give a small increase in torque it isn't the right way to go about it IMO. You can achieve the same benefit by changing to a higher amp controller (or shunt modding it) and retain the top speed as long as the battery can support it.
Something else that can help is a more robust battery with less sag under load. To see what impact this might be having on your current setup try and watch (safely) the voltage during hard acceleration. If it's sagging more than 4-5 volts the battery is struggling to keep up with the load.

Cheers
 
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