High amp controller

NeedForSpeed

NeedForSpeed

1 W
Joined
Dec 31, 2017
Messages
64
I currently have a TC100 Crystalyte motor, 72 volt battery, and a 72 volt 40 amp controller.

I'm looking to upgrade to a higher amp controller, looking to go somewhere in the range of 85-150. I'm having trouble however finding a [strike]controller with high amp hours[/strike] high amp controller. Are there any brands anyone can recommend? Or general suggestions for how to find these?
 
NeedForSpeed said:
...... I'm having trouble however finding a controller with high amp hours. ....
Click to expand...

Do you mean "High amp hours." as in a used controller or a high amp output controller?

:D
 
Sorry. Updated the OP. I had battery amp hours on my brain.
 
It is easy to mod your actual Crystalyte controller. This is well documented on ES.

Most of those already have low resistance 4110 mosfets, so it is only a matter of adding solder to the shunt, beefing the traces with copper mesh and solder, replacing the phase wires with bigger ones.
 
This is 80A. I wouldn't mod any controller for more than 50% over rating, but you could take this one to 120A easily.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24FET-IRFB4110-s-3000W-48-84V-80Amax-BLDC-motor-controller-EV-brushless-speed-controller-sensor-sensorless/313864_522263950.html
 
FWIW, if you don't need *continuous* power at those high currents, but just more for startups from a stop for a few seconds, sometimes you can get lucky by just adding another shunt to your existing controller (or one of the other various shunt mods documented on ES over the years).

On the SB Cruiser, a few months ago I added anohter shunt in parallel with the existing ones on a cheap generic 15FET, which previously was a "40A" that usually only went up to around 33A peak (regardless of load on it). No other mods to it, and that just about doubled the current it peaks at during acceleration, definitely increasing the motor torque and decreasing acceleration time.

It hasn't exploded yet. ;)


But it could, potentially anytime. So I havent' done the same thing to the Grinfineon 12FET on the other motor wheel on the right side yet.


But if you want to just buy a new controller that's higher power, there's a number of them in the for sale section in various threads by different members and vendors.

There's also some of them reviewed in the Ebike Reviews and Tests section.
 
Might look more at stuff for a motorcycle, once you are into that kind of amps.

Also, bear in mind just increasing voltage still increases wattage a lot, and increases the motors top rpm.

I found 40 amps plenty, once I was running at 110v or so. 50 mph on the hub motor I was running for that race.
 
MadRhino said:
It is easy to mod your actual Crystalyte controller. This is well documented on ES.

Most of those already have low resistance 4110 mosfets, so it is only a matter of adding solder to the shunt, beefing the traces with copper mesh and solder, replacing the phase wires with bigger ones.
Click to expand...
Waking Up an old comment.
I actually can't find any images or specific how to's. Only references to it being done.
Happen to remember any posts with pictures?
 
MaxBicycleMax said:
Waking Up an old comment.
I actually can't find any images or specific how to's. Only references to it being done.
Happen to remember any posts with pictures?
Click to expand...
These are three separate mods, so likely not all in one place. You may not need to do all of them. For phase wires, unless the ones on the motor side are beefier, then no need to upgrade.

Here’s a video on modding the traces around 3.5 minutes in. There are other means, like using copper mesh or bars, etc.

Shunt mods can either be an art or a science. APL’s build approaches it from the science end. First class.
Post in thread 'APL's V4 Cruiser Build.'
APL's V4 Cruiser Build.

I used the old fashioned put a gob of solder on it approach. Much less precise, and even though I did it in increments, I still overshot by 11A in the end. I’m using a cycle analyst for current limiting anyway, so not a big problem. I haven’t modified my backup controller yet, but I’ll go the science route on that one since APL and the ES brains on his thread already did the work.
Post in thread 'My econo-e-bike'
My econo-e-bike

Some shunts can be different, or look like a big resistor or piece of metal, but I have an old Crystallite in my parts box, and I think it has similar shunts. (Thanks for reviving this thread. It made me interested in modding mine, once I verify the FETs).

PS, you should do the math once you know which FETs you have, to determine how far you’re willing to push it.
 
Last edited:
E-HP said:
These are three separate mods, so likely not all in one place. You may not need to do all of them. For phase wires, unless the ones on the motor side are beefier, then no need to upgrade.

Here’s a video on modding the traces around 3.5 minutes in. There are other means, like using copper mesh or bars, etc.

Shunt mods can either be an art or a science. APL’s build approaches it from the science end. First class.
Post in thread 'APL's V4 Cruiser Build.'
APL's V4 Cruiser Build.

I used the old fashioned put a gob of solder on it approach. Much less precise, and even though I did it in increments, I still overshot by 11A in the end. I’m using a cycle analyst for current limiting anyway, so not a big problem. I haven’t modified my backup controller yet, but I’ll go the science route on that one since APL and the ES brains on his thread already did the work.
Post in thread 'My econo-e-bike'
My econo-e-bike

Some shunts can be different, or look like a big resistor or piece of metal, but I have an old Crystallite in my parts box, and I think it has similar shunts. (Thanks for reviving this thread. It made me interested in modding mine, once I verify the FETs).

PS, you should do the math once you know which FETs you have, to determine how far you’re willing to push it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info and links to other threads.
Much awesomeness to be read through😎
 
yantra yatra said:
Do you know if this works with regen, pas and toque sensing?
Click to expand...
The listing shows regen. Only a handful of controllers support torque sensing PAS without hardware or firmware modification. Some of the Grin controllers, some Lishui, and KT made one sold by BMS Battery that’s no longer available. A Cycle Analyst can be used to add support for torque sensing PAS to any controller with a throttle input, as an off the shelf option not requiring firmware mods.
 
Thank you, do you know which Lishui works with TS?

I assume this one doesn’t
Lishui Controller LD-LS82

And this one does

Lishui Controller LD-LS88

Nanjing Lishui Electronics Research Institute Co., Ltd
www.lsdzs.com www.lsdzs.com

Unfortunately the second one is rated only for 1500w while the larger one is rated for 2000w. Both for 60a. I might go for one of these. (They don’t mention regen in the info but assume it works)
 
E-HP said:
PS, you should do the math once you know which FETs you have, to determine how far you’re willing to push it.
Click to expand...
So umm.
I see I have these. Data sheet says 120A and a squillion other details of which I'm not sure which are relevant.

18 fets so 3 in parallel.
3 in parallel = 360A

So umm does that simply mean 360A phase current is the absolute Max?
Is there some derating to be done?

1000006576.jpg

Shiny virgin shunts1000006575.jpg

Traces on the underside already beefed up some.
1000006572.jpg
 
I used to ride those Crystalyte 18 fet controllers at 100A battery current, fed with 24s lipo. They are small enough to fit neatly under the top tube of many large DH bikes, lightweight, cheap and pretty reliable in all conditions. Even when you ride an expansive controller, a modified 18/4110 is a precious spare to keep on the shelves ready to swap.

I wouldn’t ride that kind of brute power with a PAS. Not saying a PAS can’t be fit to feed high power, only you’d need to have much a better control on the program acceleration curve and power surge. Those primitive controllers have very limited settings options.

I’m not here much, because I don’t ride ebikes anymore. I used to say that soon I will be too old and need to build a trike. Turned out the opposite. I am riding EUC’s now. 😎
 
E-HP said:
Ah, so that’s what you’ve been up to.👍
I’m sure you’re wearing the right gear, but be careful out there!
Click to expand...
At this time of the year I wear protections, but in the summer I have to admit I’m careless. I always wear the wrist guards though. I am more into slow city freestyle in the summer, most of the time without a helmet. Fast rides and mountain trails do require full MX gear and I can’t stand that in the warm season. Different wheels too. My summer wheels can be carried with one hand. The sport wheels are much larger. I love it. It’s PITA to learn all the tricks, but after the first season you’re totally addicted.
 
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