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12 kw rc motor

That crash was awesome Tony :lol:

I once had a 80 year old friend of mine do that with my Yuba, he was sent running down the street after it, luckily he landed on it and broke his fall, and didn't break anything else.

I am sure Toolman2 was really sensitive to your embarrassment and didn't raise it again :D
 
Philistine said:
That crash was awesome Tony :lol:

I once had a 80 year old friend of mine do that with my Yuba, he was sent running down the street after it, luckily he landed on it and broke his fall, and didn't break anything else.

I am sure Toolman2 was really sensitive to your embarrassment and didn't raise it again :D
Click to expand...
Toolman2 only mentions it once or twice... in every conversation :)

Dyno this week hopefully
 
sigimem said:
Hey guys

is there any update on this?
I would love to hear the motor is running with 20kw now :twisted: .
Click to expand...

Ok sorry for the quiet. Home and work have taken over my life. In the last two months I have lost my dog of 10 years to degenerative disk disease (swelling in the spine), my wife has been in hospital for major surgery and work has decided to restructure. All in all a bit full.

About 3 weeks ago (before dog and wife issues) we had a scheduled time on the dyno but the guy called and cancelled with 30 minutes to spare. Not happy.
I have done some work on the bike for final registration and once the stuff is fully mounted I will get it to the dyno as soon as we can.
 
Very buisy on my end too. I made huge progress but put my life on hold, now Im just getting everything back together and organized. I also just got new boards in for building something with up to 350 phase amps at 170v. Im hoping to get to them ASAP as well.

Sorry about your dog splinter. Hope your wife is ok.
 
Stall test [youtube]MIpZ1Yq6ylc[/youtube]
 
Best run to date. [youtube]gSACS3ccraM[/youtube]
 
I'm up to 350 phase amps on 20s :)
This motor is just luke warm (35-40 deg C) after 10min of steat full throttle bagging!
[youtube]91pGd7jOgB4[/youtube]
 
circuit said:
Arlo.. Wow... I have notice two things though. Motor is still very noisy. Also your bike looked a lot bigger in previous photos and videos :lol:
Click to expand...
If big...... if. I can make enough power to the wheel with this I will use it in my 87cbr250 conversion as well. If you wanna be fast you make it small and light. The Yamaha ysr was a very cool little bike and I've always dreamed of making one bad ass.
The noise I like it shuts up the people who say "bla bla electrics are cool but I like the sound of an ICE". I love the scream of colossus. And it goes away above 10,000 rpm ;)
 
Arlin, Congrats!! that's a fast bike!

On the video you talk about a diode, care to elaborate? some specs please?

Keep up the good work!
 
h0tr0d said:
Arlin, Congrats!! that's a fast bike!

On the video you talk about a diode, care to elaborate? some specs please?

Keep up the good work!
Click to expand...
Thanks Im pretty happy with it and every time I work on it it gets faster ;)
The diode is for helping speed up the current through the hi side to the caps when the low side transitions off during PWM. You have to remember the inductance in the motor makes the current keep flowing after the fets turn off which causes the current to flow through the diodes in the opposite side of the H bridge. So what I found is if you shut the low side off to fast the hi side diode does not conduct fast enough although more caps help I found ultra fast diodes helped as well.
I also used a trick from lebowski to tie the low side gate to the low side drain with a rc snubber. It worked well. I was able to run 350 phase amps at 84v and Im switching a bit slow so I will try to speed that up and continue.
 
Arlo1 said:
Thanks Im pretty happy with it and every time I work on it it gets faster ;)
Click to expand...
F*CK YEAH MAN!!! 8) Awesome!
Arlo1 said:
The diode is for helping speed up the current through the hi side to the caps when the low side transitions off during PWM. You have to remember the inductance in the motor makes the current keep flowing after the fets turn off which causes the current to flow through the diodes in the opposite side of the H bridge. So what I found is if you shut the low side off to fast the hi side diode does not conduct fast enough although more caps help I found ultra fast diodes helped as well.
I also used a trick from lebowski to tie the low side gate to the low side drain with a rc snubber. It worked well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. I was also asking for part number of the diode.

Arlo1 said:
I was able to run 350 phase amps at 84v and Im switching a bit slow so I will try to speed that up and continue.
Click to expand...
Incoming plasma incidents....? :twisted:
 
h0tr0d said:
Thanks for the explanation. I was also asking for part number of the diode.

Arlo1 said:
I was able to run 350 phase amps at 84v and Im switching a bit slow so I will try to speed that up and continue.
Click to expand...
Incoming plasma incidents....? :twisted:
Click to expand...
I did blow it up after about 10min of punishment. But I must say IM blown away that I made it that far that fast. If I have any advice to others take your time and slowly up the power and make it a clean build a mess of wires will be nothing but plasma in short order! I had the cooling fans backwards and I was switching slower then I think I can....
As for the diode Its ultra fast... I don't have the PN in front of me but that doesn't matter because its not the best for the job although it helped...
schottky diodes are what I'm told really work well they have a low forward voltage.
My original plan was for ~330-350 phase amps max and 84 volts so some little tweeking and im done. Then on to the next Hi voltage controller then onto the MEGA controller ;)
 
Ok so I finally got my ass into gear and got to the Dyno.
I did the run with a couple of settings.

Green run is my battery pack 100% motor current and 50% battery current.
Blue is another small A123 pack in parallel with my pack (to stop voltage sage) 100% motor current and 70% battery current. The controller cut out with "Internal Reset - May be caused by some transient fault condition like a temporary over-current, momentarily high or low battery voltage. This can happen during normal operation".
Red is with both packs 100% motor current and 50% battery current.

All up we did over 10 runs on the dyno.
Note it appears that the 50% battery current stops the internal reset.



Dyno Run - Electric Bike by Splinter, on Flickr

Green - 11.3kw (My bike standard setup)
Blue - 12.2 kw and cuts out
Red - 13.99 kw - 18.7 hp
 
Thats a good looking graph... And you are 8hp ahead of me lol Not for long ;)
Thats cool though... I wonder why the low end of the curve seems HI You must be running epic phase amps Looking at your graph and from my experiance so far you are likely around 500-600 phase amps.
 
Arlo1 said:
Thats a good looking graph... And you are 8hp ahead of me lol Not for long ;)
Thats cool though... I wonder why the low end of the curve seems HI You must be running epic phase amps Looking at your graph and from my experiance so far you are likely around 500-600 phase amps.
Click to expand...

agreed arlo, we only had a 400a current meter on the phases and it was way over that, but its a big kelly and fany told us (in writing even!) to set it to 100% motor current, so we did. :shock:
the motor stayed pretty cool on the dyno, but it got up a bit on the street doing standing starts with these amps without cooling.
and we really need timing also.
 
Lebowski said:
Arlin, didn't you rewind yours ? change it to WYE ? Point being, maybe your Kv is different and more volts are needed ?
Click to expand...
I have 2 motors. The one I have running with your controller is OEM
 
Lebowski said:
Arlin, didn't you rewind yours ? change it to WYE ? Point being, maybe your Kv is different and more volts are needed ?
Click to expand...
I need a bigger controller.... I built what I have to run from 10-20 kw max just to make the bike usable while I figure out how to build a powerstage. Then I will rebuild another for more power. Im doing this in steps.
My plan is 48 mosfet with ixfk230n20t fets ~800-900 phase amps at 170v But thats down the road it all takes time.
 
Lebowski said:
Arlin, didn't you rewind yours ? change it to WYE ? Point being, maybe your Kv is different and more volts are needed ?
Click to expand...
The motor I have been using for the testing it the same as splinters. I have 2 big colossus motors and I re-wound the other one for experimenting but I will rewind it for better efficiency eventually once I know what KV I want. I have some bad voltage sag and Im going to check if its the connectors or the batteries themselves. Today I will do a load/sag test on 1 pack then 2 and 3 in parallel. To see how much they sag vs a good load 200-300 amps.

I think I was wasting a lot of heat in the powerstage and combined with pour connections and maybe battery sag I was losing some good power. I think I can make close to the same RWHP as splinter once I spend the time to find it. He has different gearing to top speed maybe different. I ordered 2 of those temp sensor kits today to watch Hi and Low side temperature. I will move one to the motor in the future when I figure out which side is hotter in the controller.
 
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