16" or 17" moped rims

mr.electric

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I am lacing up a 9c into a moped rim. I have seen a crystalite motor built into a 17" moped rim and it looked great , they used a single cross pattern to the spokes. I definitely want to end up with a single cross. The issue is a 16" would fit more easily into my frame, the 17" would require a bit of a modification and weld to the frame so I will do a 16" if it allows for spoke cross. Has anyone tried a 9c in a 16" moped rim?
 
No, but wondering where you are getting your rim from?

As I have found out, easier to get a new rim and get the supplier to drill it to the exact angles required for the cross pattern you are planning to use. Will make lacing so much easier
 

I found a source for these built wheels locally. They are 17". I was hoping to get a 16" but this will have to do for now.
 
mr.electric said:
Has anyone tried a 9c in a 16" moped rim?

If all you are using is a Nine Continent motor, why are you fooling around with moped stuff? Fetish value?
 
My guess would be because these wheels are inexpensive, difficult to break and nearly impossible to get a flat when fitted with moped tires. Weight penalty applies. Tires are ~1/2 the cost of the best performing bikey equivalent.

Stoopid concept, but it works VERY well for heavy eBikes ..or super-light motorcycles.

*Definitions may vary, discontinue use when taking your opinions too seriously

*Edited to sound more like a commercial trying to sell you sh!t you do not need :p
 
Chalo said:
If all you are using is a Nine Continent motor, why are you fooling around with moped stuff? Fetish value?
this wheel will go in a food delivery vehicle. Total bike weight could approach 200 lb before the rider gets on. Plus the old wheel hit curbs and flatted several times.
 
mr.electric said:
Chalo said:
If all you are using is a Nine Continent motor, why are you fooling around with moped stuff? Fetish value?
this wheel will go in a food delivery vehicle. Total bike weight could approach 200 lb before the rider gets on. Plus the old wheel hit curbs and flatted several times.

OK. For commercial use, I'd do it with moped parts if it works out cheaper that way. But it's not at all necessary to use motor vehicle parts for what you're doing. Strong, high quality (not random/cheap/whatever the manufacturer used) bicycle parts will do the job. Even moped rims and tires will suffer flats and dents if they are not kept inflated to proper pressure.

My e-bikes have used 700c bicycle wheels and tires for gross weights of up to 500 pounds without cargo. I used MTB or mountain unicycle rims with 13/14ga single butted spokes, and mostly 700x38 tires.

Almost all the pedicabs here in Austin (we have over 250 operating pedicabs) use bicycle rims and tires, for gross weights that sometimes reach 1000 pounds. The trikes use MTB rims with 48 spokes, and 26x2.1" to 2.5" tires.

Chalo
 
16" is what you want if not a 14", though 14's are moto rims. My 14's are laced single cross despite the very short spokes. There's less selection in 16" moped tires than 17", but the reason I say go with the 16 is for the smaller resulting diameter. Direct drive hubmotors are too steeply geared regardless of the wind, that's why the smallest tire you can live with is always better when you've got hills and big loads.
 

I went with a 17" rim and built this wheel yesterday. I would have rather done a 16" but I could not find a 16" rim. This looks solid. I got a great deal on the rim and tire and spokes.
 
It's a snappy looking wheel in any case.
 
mr.electric said:
I went with a 17" rim and built this wheel yesterday.

Was the rim pre drilled for another application? or did you get it drilled especially for the hub?

Just wondering about the angles of the drillings in the dimples. I am about to get one drilled to do a radial lacing pattern, but now seing yours wonder about drilling it for a 1 cross and getting longer spokes.

Think for a 54xx motor with an ERD of 418 the spokes need to be 88 mm. or 110 or so for a 1 cross.

What were your dimensions? ERD, hub diameter and spoke length?
 
I started with a complete moped wheel that was unused. I cut the spokes close to the nipples. I did not measure the dimensions. I had ebikes sf measure rim and hub dimensions and cut and thread the spokes to length. Then I built the wheel.
The dimples in the moped rim helped avoid the extreme angle into the spoke nipple when lacing. I also noticed some wheels have the spokes crossed in a way that the spokes touch where they cross. Other wheels are laced so they do not touch where they cross. The original
Moped wheel was laced so the spokes do not touch when they cross so I did the same when I relaced.
 
NeilP said:
Just wondering about the angles of the drillings in the dimples. I am about to get one drilled to do a radial lacing pattern, but now seing yours wonder about drilling it for a 1 cross and getting longer spokes.

Think for a 54xx motor with an ERD of 418 the spokes need to be 88 mm. or 110 or so for a 1 cross.
I would do the single cross. The wheel looks stronger and the dimples in the rim are made just to allow a cross.
 
That wheel turned out real nice! Doubtful you will be needing to do much -if any- maintenance on that one in the future. I would recommend running 5 PSI over the rated spec if you want to optimize rolling resistance & lower the chances of snake bite (pinch-flat).

What kind of tire is that, and what is the inflated height?
 
mr.electric said:
I would do the single cross. The wheel looks stronger and the dimples in the rim are made just to allow a cross.

Should have, but all ordered for radial now. Have the spokes and I guess the rim has probably already been drilled for radial.
 
Stevil_Knevil said:
That wheel turned out real nice! Doubtful you will be needing to do much -if any- maintenance on that one in the future. I would recommend running 5 PSI over the rated spec if you want to optimize rolling resistance & lower the chances of snake bite (pinch-flat).

What kind of tire is that, and what is the inflated height?
I will check the tire when I get back too it. Do you think I could single cross a crystalyte into a 16"?
 
You can, but the nipples will bind up a bit more than on a 17". I have laced plenty of x5's into 16s.

Here are a few samples of the wheels I have built. Mostly 16 and 17" rims on large hubs.
http://www.holmeshobbies.com/blog/?page_id=212
 
How about this for an odd lacing pattern John.
Different number of holes in the hub to the rim so you have to work out a weird pattern. Am sure John is familiar with this sort of thing, others may not be

16 inch Bicycle tyre size, so 14 inch rim or smaller if using m/c sizes, with a 'Thompson Euro Tourer' motor..unknown brand small BLDC hub.
36 hole hub
28 hole rim
i believe 4 different spoke lengths..Really satisfying to work out the pattern and build that one. pattern and lengths worked out manually..all long hand using trig,
Theory from Sheldons page
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mismatch/

wheel radial scaled spoked .jpg

IMG_0128.jpg

IMG_0132.jpg
 
NeilP said:
i believe 4 different spoke lengths..Really satisfying to work out the pattern and build that one. pattern and lengths worked out manually..all long hand using trig,

I love to drag out the scientific calculator, and I love to build models in CAD. But in this case, I have figured out an easier way.

You'll have to use a spoke calculator that supports non-integral cross counts, like Damon Rinard's Spocalc (hosted at http://sheldonbrown.com), which is also used in a web client at http://lenni.info/edd.

If you're mixing rim and hub hole counts, you just choose one or the other for the calculator. Whichever you choose, 360 / (hole count) equals the value of one cross. So, one cross on a 36 hole rim equals ten degrees offset per spoke (between hub hole and rim hole). Then you simply reckon the amount of angular offset between the corresponding rim hole and hub hole on the example you've got. Divide that by ten degrees (or whatever you came up with) and that's your cross count.

Damon Rinard has a page on this, but without knowing that, I worked it out for myself years ago when my buddy Aaron asked for help with a project.
 
Chalo said:
I love to drag out the scientific calculator, and I love to build models in CAD. But in this case, I have figured out an easier way.

Never used CAD before..something I have not had time to get to grips with..just can not be bothered now. as you can probably tell, my images was done in Paint!!

Chalo said:
Then you simply reckon the amount of angular offset between the mismatched hole you've got and where it would be if you were using a matching hole count. Divide that by ten degrees (or whatever you came up with) and that's your cross count.

Can see it in a way, but using the formula seems easier to me when you have so many different crosses in the pattern like the one above. 24 to 36 seems easier to do that the 28 to 36, less differetn spoke lengths required...but either way, nice to see the theory works
 
I would really like to know where you got the 17" rims from. I am in the lurch looking for a 17" x 1.60 rim that uses a 17-2.25 tire.
The rims are 36 holes each and I have the drum brake hardware and motor to transfer over. It's been a while since I relaced a rim and would like any tips.. Will check the FAQ.

The manufacturer didn't ship the spare rims I need and I am looking for a local North American suppliers.
I need two for a front and rear replacement for a 16 year old daughter of customer of mine that went off roading. Totally whacked the rims to death in every way you can't really adjust out without beating the metal into conformity.

The ones I have are mild steel. I discovered that 20" bicycle tubes do work in the rims with a bit of a stretch. :}

The bike is a BLW China made one from Shenzen, using Kenda DOT rated tires for 235lbs each.
The bikes can be seen at www.ecomopeds.com
 
http://www.buchananspokes.net/products/excel_non_dimpled_aluminum_rims.asp

http://www.buchananspokes.net/categories/mandap_rims.asp




John only seems to fo 18's but he should know where

http://holmeshobbies.com/Aluminum-Moped-Rim.html
 
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