19" Motorcycle Wheels vs 26" Bicycle Wheels (rim and tires)

[Rix]

Pic is a 19 X 2.2 moped tire (OD 24-inches), front tire is common 26 X 1.75, notice the horizontal line on the garage door to compare tire heights.

96[/img]

Good point Spinner, I think the illusion of the 19 looking much smaller against a 26MTB wheel is because the average MC tire has a much taller side profile than the bicycle wheel counterpart. Machine looks good, is it yours?

 

[crossbreak]

Thanks for that pic, spinningmags,

illusion? to me it looks like it is ~25 OD, about an inch smaller. Still looking good. Thinkin about going for a Heidenau K46 19 X 2.5 rear and keep the Schwalbe Smarts Sam Plus 2.25 X 26 front. Still not sure.. i like the Smart Sam i have in rear ATM which has still enough grip, but it wears quite fast have to swap it after ~2000km which is almost 3 times a year . In fact it's really is the weak MAC motor clutch that makes me think about an MXUS3000 again :/ swapped it twice now, which always is a hassle, plus i could finally go for a FOC Kelly which does not like my MAC motor so much. So why not also go for a moped tire this time? Hope the 1.35x19 rim is still a good match for a 2.5" tire.

 

[Rix]

Thanks for that pic, spinningmags,

illusion? to me it looks like it is ~25 OD, about an inch smaller. Still looking good. Thinkin about going for a Heidenau K46 19 X 2.5 rear and keep the Schwalbe Smarts Sam Plus 2.25 X 26 front. Still not sure.. i like the Smart Sam i have in rear ATM which has still enough grip, but it wears quite fast have to swap it after ~2000km which is almost 3 times a year . In fact it's really is the weak MAC motor clutch that makes me think about an MXUS3000 again :/ swapped it twice now, which always is a hassle, plus i could finally go for a FOC Kelly which does not like my MAC motor so much. So why not also go for a moped tire this time? Hope the 1.35x19 rim is still a good match for a 2.5" tire.

Your 1.35x19 rim will be a perfect match for any 19" tire from 2.25 up to 3.00 wide.

 

[Merlin]

with shinkos on 19" you have 1955mm for your cycle-analyst (24.5")

 

[ccmdr]

@Crossbreak

Been running the Heidenau K46 for a while now in an 1.40 SMPro rim, front and rear. The only thing I'd be wary about going moto rim up front is aesthetically it's pleasing, but in practicality it really does make the steering feel heavy, although cornering is much more like a moto . Cut down and threaded some 12G unicycle spokes for the front.

I fit all my moto tyres frequently due to relativily high mileage and have to say 1.40 is a SOB if you don't heavily lube the bead first . 1.35 would still fit, but you better be patient and have long levers :wink:. Then you need to be extra careful not to pinch the tube with your levers. 500 miles on K46 and they look almost new with a Cro V3 with 6kw peaks, I'm a flyweight bare in mind.

 

[Merlin]

good to know...still waiting for spokes and K46 are also on my MMP Rims.

and yes. changing from 26er MTB Tires to a double weight 19" Moped Rim with Tyre is a huuuuuugeeeeee difference in handling...


BUT I LIKE THAT. on Higher Speeds it is a Rockstable front.


can you plz tell me how noisy the K46 are?
i come from shinkos and they are very loud on higher speeds.

 

[ccmdr]

Honestly, I wear a peaked DS moto lid and full gear so don't hear much if anything outside of normal wind noise. Speed wise Hookworms vs K46 didn't change straight line confidence much, slip streaming occasionally at 85kph is fine. However, cornering was a different matter I'd had the front end wash out from under me with Hookworms, but not the K46. Used to riding sumo though so I prefer aggresive fork angle (clamps low, adjust rear shock to suit) for faster tip in.

 

[litespeed]

I've been running a 17" with a MXUS for some time with a Shinko 241 3.00 tire. It works very wellI'm planning on installing a QS 205 in an 18" X 1.85 and using a 19" X 1.6 on the front. I'd like to run a 3.50 tire on front and rear but wonder if it will feel uneasy with the narrow rims. I have read that the 2.75 tires are harder compound and they don't make a 19" in a 3.00 tire. I think the wider tires would give my vector style frame a cool fat bike look and a little more buoyancy in soft loamy sand and dirt.

I've never tried this before and don't want to end up with a couple tires I can't use for anything.

What are the thoughts of the experts here?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[spinningmagnets]

dbaker, the details of this torque-plates' info is here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=74899

Machine looks good, is it yours?

Rix, it is a cheap aluminum yard sale bike I picked up for $20 and covered with dull black primer. It has a weak front V-brake and no back brake (except for regen from the hub), and...only a complete idiot would run 2600W though this frame (*Ron begins staring off into space and drooling with his mouth slightly open...)

 

[Rix]

with shinkos on 19" you have 1955mm for your cycle-analyst (24.5")

I found with the Shinko SR241 at 25" OD, it comes out to 1995mm. This is really close on the CA. When checking distance with my GPS, I was only 10 meters short of true distance covered over 2 miles. Not bad. Which Shinko tire are you running?

 

[Merlin]

mhh....i WAS running shinkos. Bike is sold, building a new one with Heidenau K46 now. Still waiting for spokes.
i checked it oldschool....

sittting on my bike. Make a drop of oil on the middle of the tire. "drive" 3 meters on a straight line and measure the distance between the "drops on the "road".
so i think thats the real circumference of the tire.

i think GPS stuff we use had a tolerance of / up to 5%

 

[Rix]

mhh....i WAS running shinkos. Bike is sold, building a new one with Heidenau K46 now. Still waiting for spokes.
i checked it oldschool....

sittting on my bike. Make a drop of oil on the middle of the tire. "drive" 3 meters on a straight line and measure the distance between the "drops on the "road".
so i think thats the real circumference of the tire.

i think GPS stuff we use had a tolerance of / up to 5%

Yes you are measuring true circumference with your oil on the tire method. I use a ruler and bubble to measure true tire inflated height in inches, take that number, multiply by 3.141, and multiply that number by 25.4 to get my circumference in Millimeters. Whether its 1955 or 1995, thats way closer than 5% so we are both in the ballpark so to speak.

 

[Lurkin]

raise wheel off ground
run string round the outside.
measure string. Done, no mess.

 

[Rix]

raise wheel off ground
run string round the outside.
measure string. Done, no mess.

Fuq that easy stuff, I say do it the most difficult way :lol:

 

[Chalo]

raise wheel off ground
run string round the outside.
measure string. Done, no mess.

Distortion at the contract patch makes the static circumference of the wheel different than its loaded rollout dimension. Back in previous century, when setting up a cyclocomputer I would put the customer on the bike, apply a small dab of Liquid Paper to the front tire, and then have the customer roll in a straight line until there are two or three marks on the ground. The distance between two marks is the rollout circumference.

 

[pkirkll]

[strike]I will probably just have to put it on the bike and see if i can jam it in the space allowed....if not i'll go get another size....hopefully a little smaller,,,lol

then hit a million buttons on the CA to tryt to make it work within 10/15%[/strike]

 

[Rix]

Distortion at the contract patch makes the static circumference of the wheel different than its loaded rollout dimension.

I never accounted for that, and now it makes sense why I come up just a little short on my GPS vs CA/DC1 display readings.

 

[litespeed]

I tried this in the other thread with no responses......ill try again here.

I was thinking of running the Shinko 18-3.5 on rear with a 1.85 rim and a 19-3.5 on a front 1.6 rim. So the Shinko web site says the 3.5 tire should be used with a 2.15 rim. So how whacked out would this be? I'd like to do the big tire thing but the rims are hard to come by for hub motors....I can get the above sized rims built on the QS motors from the factory. Otherwise I have to ship the motor and hub to a wheel builder and then to me....read a lot more money.

I think a 3.30 tire would be the bomb with a 30+ pound rear hub motor.

What say ye?

Tom

 

[Rix]

I tried this in the other thread with no responses......ill try again here.

I was thinking of running the Shinko 18-3.5 on rear with a 1.85 rim and a 19-3.5 on a front 1.6 rim. So the Shinko web site says the 3.5 tire should be used with a 2.15 rim. So how whacked out would this be? I'd like to do the big tire thing but the rims are hard to come by for hub motors....I can get the above sized rims built on the QS motors from the factory. Otherwise I have to ship the motor and hub to a wheel builder and then to me....read a lot more money.

I think a 3.30 tire would be the bomb with a 30+ pound rear hub motor.

What say ye?

Tom

You could easily fit a 3.5 wide tire on a 1.85 wide rim, but probably not on a 1.4 wide rim. Thats a big tire though. There won't be any problems with tire fitment, but that tire will be every bit as wide as 3.5 inches and probably wider.

 

[Offroader]

I would just put the 3.5" tire on a 1.6" rim to be honest.

 

[litespeed]

I pretty much or so decided to do just that. Just wanted someone to say it! :wink:

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Rix]

I would just put the 3.5" tire on a 1.6" rim to be honest.

Do you have a source for 18x1.6 wide rims? I cant find them anywhere, except some steel units from China

 

[litespeed]

QS has 18" X 1.85 rears and 19" X 1.60 fronts they are supplying for wheel builds....really good pricing.

Tom

 

[Ugrd]

Thanks to Holmes for supplying me two front and rear MMP 17" rims for this spring, shes not wired up yet but two ContiGo 17x2.75 tires are on there now too Also missing a BB

 

[kiwiev]

Hey Rix

Got my 17" wheel on the front of my black Russian looks great wheel for a quick ride down our dirt drive way seams no different to the 24" except to look down on looks tiny but soaks up the bumps easy

Cheers Kiwi