I built a tiny internal grinder to cut splines into hardend steel freewheels
The CSK35 on my Moulton is doing fine but, it's not a Chinese cheapo and the Moulton has 20" wheels... The Chinese ones seem to be failing on freewheeling crank set-ups and it's not clear whether this is because of a lack of bearing support for angular forces, or not. Using a sprague clutch would avoid the pick-up lag and they're easy enough to fit to a standard cassette driver using the methods I posted before. One drawback to using them is the weight - 300g for a CSK35; 180g for a lightweight ratchet freewheel.mdd0127 said:About the rear freewheel, I really like CSK35PP's for this, or a csk25 it it's at the reduction output. On my current build, the freewheel is in the reduction output so the chain always moves but it really doesn't add much drag or noise....not enough to bother me anyway. I'd still rather have the freewheel in the rear so I've been mulling around the idea of making a csk35 to 44mm disc adapter setup.
interesting question.Does nobody else see the advantage of being able to "feather" the power??
Miles could you let us know where this is posted. Thanks.Miles said:... Using a sprague clutch would avoid the pick-up lag and they're easy enough to fit to a standard cassette driver using the methods I posted before. ...
I use this method for securing freewheels (the type with recesses for the removal tool) and also the CSK35.RWP said:Miles could you let us know where this is posted. Thanks.
Here's what it would look like:Miles said:The pockets on the above are pretty much the same width as the wide slot on the cassette driver. Perhaps we could get away with a single key fixed into one of the pockets?