2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
menvert
100 W
I'd guess it's mainly personal preference... I use alloy as I want it as light as reasonably possible and well I am not sure I could even find steel rims these days + extra postage weight...nw01 said:
docnjoj
1 GW
Well Bonnie came through with the new controller. Initial tests show that my rebuild motor runs in all three modes, Low, High and automatic. Only tested on the test stand freewheeling but it does seem quite smooth. Road test tomorrow. Too much to do today.
otherDoc
otherDoc
menvert
100 W
Does anyone have the 48v KT setup?
I want to know what the default P5 setting is, as I am trying to work out what to set it to so my battery guage is more-or-less accurate (and ideally will cut out when @3.5v per cell), best I can do so far is make it always 100% or 30% @ full but quickly becoming 0% I can't work out what the numbers mean, 0-40 where apparently 24v is 4-13 36v 5-15, but manual doesn't suggest what 48v is (and I need more like 44v)
I want to know what the default P5 setting is, as I am trying to work out what to set it to so my battery guage is more-or-less accurate (and ideally will cut out when @3.5v per cell), best I can do so far is make it always 100% or 30% @ full but quickly becoming 0% I can't work out what the numbers mean, 0-40 where apparently 24v is 4-13 36v 5-15, but manual doesn't suggest what 48v is (and I need more like 44v)
P5 is like a damping factor on the battery gauge so that it doesn't go up and down with battery sag. It doesn't change the accuracy. It only makes it a bit laggy.
Unfortunately, I'm not at home at the moment, so I can't check what mine's set to, but there's an instruction on the BMSBattery website under their S-LCD listing.
I'm now visiting the Shanghai Cycle show, so I see Bonnie every day. If anybody has questions, I can relay them.
Unfortunately, I'm not at home at the moment, so I can't check what mine's set to, but there's an instruction on the BMSBattery website under their S-LCD listing.
I'm now visiting the Shanghai Cycle show, so I see Bonnie every day. If anybody has questions, I can relay them.
menvert
100 W
Ah, nice;d8veh said:
So still confusing, is it saying for 40v lvc I need P5=8? (8/3.77=2.12) or maybe 7 as this 12s HK lipo is more like 44v, less than 2v sag (is that what the = 1/1.5/2 is? the sag v?) Guess I'll see on monday if 7/8 works, I was trying higher numbers than default 15
knutselmaaster
1 kW
This was the manual that Bonnie sent me.
It is dated a month ago so I don't know if it applies to your version....
It is dated a month ago so I don't know if it applies to your version....
menvert
100 W
Thanks, looks the same as the one I am using, and very vague about how to set P5knutselmaaster said:
menvert
100 W
Yeah, I don't have a BMS so thought at least it'd be nice to have the battery guage do something useful, and thought it'd also cut off power when too low.d8veh said:
I didn't thing any other settings related to battery/LVC?
Lately my charger says I am now using 15.5Ah of my 16 (though individual cells are still above 3.75 at rest so I think my charger is poorly calibrated) just worried I might get careless & forget to switch to and watch voltage)
docnjoj
1 GW
OK the new controller works fine, and shifts really quickly. Just back from an 18 mile test run and the motor/controller performed flawlessly. They were quite warm as the end of the ride is always a half mile 4% hill. It was about 86 degrees air temp when we went and mostly shaded.
Yay trike and motor.
otherDoc
edit: I was a bit concerned about the heat so tomorrow I will bring an IR thermometer to check.
Yay trike and motor.
otherDoc
edit: I was a bit concerned about the heat so tomorrow I will bring an IR thermometer to check.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
That is great news!
I have received my motors, perfectly packed and all is perfectly ok.
They look very well built.
I haven't received all parts I need to build my first bike with it, so I have no news to share yet but next weekend I should normally have at least one bike built and ready, if all goes according plan.
I have received my motors, perfectly packed and all is perfectly ok.
They look very well built.
I haven't received all parts I need to build my first bike with it, so I have no news to share yet but next weekend I should normally have at least one bike built and ready, if all goes according plan.
menvert
100 W
Good to hear! Do you mean motor heat or controller? After I put mine back together the motor seems much hotter.... Also seems to burn more AH, been pondering doing the atf hack, or thinner lube as I think it is my grease that is too thick. If only opening it wasn't so harddocnjoj said:
docnjoj
1 GW
Both motor and controller were very warm. I'll check exact temperature today, knowing that the motor temp is higher inside than the outside. Yes I agree that these screw on type motors make opening more difficult. Probably developed to save a few pennies on screws or bolts for the motor covers.
otherDoc
otherDoc
docnjoj
1 GW
Dose anyone know which plug you can put a speed sensor into in the KT Xiongda controller so the speed also shows when the motor is not on, like coasting. My speed only shows when the motor is on.
otherDoc
otherDoc
That sounds like a controller setting is wrong. I don't have the manual to hand for the LCD, but it tells you in there. At the moment it's using a motor hall sensor instead of the hub speed sensor. If all else fails, you have to hack into the white wire from the motor where it joins the PCB in the controller. Run that to the signal wire from an external wheel-speed sensor.
docnjoj
1 GW
White wire is connected to controller I guess from motor.. I need power and ground to the external sensor. Where do these go or at least where do they come from? The Ku6X controller has a 3 wire connection for a speed sensor but the Xiongda does not.
otherDoc
otherDoc
menvert
100 W
I think the outside on mine is about 40-50 degrees c after a ride (winter is coming here) and inside temp (What LCD says) is 18-22docnjoj said:
docnjoj said:
Based on my tinkering for putting in my old brake hall sensors I had to tap the active and earth from PAS or accelerator wire (need to test which wire is active and not signal by voltmeter and moving accelerator or brake, see which one is constant)
I should do this speed sensor mod too... it's be nice to not have to switch into H to avoid the gears searching when it thinks I am going 0 when I let go or accelerator to coast, cause of no passive speed sensor
Also my P5=8 seems almost correct, it lost the 1st bar too early, and it's now reading 50% but much closer to real.
docnjoj
1 GW
Thanks d8veh. I'll look into controller after our 20 mile ride today, as long as the motor holds up.
otherDoc
otherDoc
knutselmaaster
1 kW
I finally got to putting the commands on the steer of my first 2 speed build.
Now I have a strange "problem".
I have thumbthrottles that came with the motors, and for each one of them I have a plastic ring with 3 larger parts on them.
I turned them in all ways but cannot seem to be able to find out what to do with them.....
Now I have a strange "problem".
I have thumbthrottles that came with the motors, and for each one of them I have a plastic ring with 3 larger parts on them.
I turned them in all ways but cannot seem to be able to find out what to do with them.....
knutselmaaster
1 kW
menvert
100 W
I put it on the side so that the ring edge pushes up against my brakes, I don't think it really matters which way, just so it pushes against something so it wont work it's way out.
Edit: actually now remember, the side where the thumb bit attaches is the side it's designed for (so that when the thumb part rotates it's not pushing into something with friction)
Edit: actually now remember, the side where the thumb bit attaches is the side it's designed for (so that when the thumb part rotates it's not pushing into something with friction)
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Thank you.
If it's just a spacer I won't need it as there is more than enough space for it to move freely.
If it's just a spacer I won't need it as there is more than enough space for it to move freely.
docnjoj
1 GW
Got 60 miles on the new rebuild with the new controller in heat (90 degree days) and no problems so far. I have sort of developed some ideas to keep the gears a little safer.
1. Since both failures were the high speed Sun gears, one probably should never start up in those gears. The newest controllers auto shift works really well and shifts out of low very rapidly. It also downshifts under 11 mph, but catches the low gear and rapidly goes into high speed gearing.
2. Dont pull back on the bike if the motor is locked up. It still stops in that condition and it is probably in high gear. Pulling back against the locked steel clutch could destroy the fragile nylon Sun gear.
3. Use low for hills as much as possible. With 12 S Lipo some shallow hills can be done in High gear. But for long steep (> than 4% or so) use low gear. Slower but safer for the motor. Low is much cooler for the motor on hills and uses far fewer watts.
We should put another 60 or so miles this weekend so I'll let everyone know the results. It is late spring here and the temperature is rising.
otherDoc
1. Since both failures were the high speed Sun gears, one probably should never start up in those gears. The newest controllers auto shift works really well and shifts out of low very rapidly. It also downshifts under 11 mph, but catches the low gear and rapidly goes into high speed gearing.
2. Dont pull back on the bike if the motor is locked up. It still stops in that condition and it is probably in high gear. Pulling back against the locked steel clutch could destroy the fragile nylon Sun gear.
3. Use low for hills as much as possible. With 12 S Lipo some shallow hills can be done in High gear. But for long steep (> than 4% or so) use low gear. Slower but safer for the motor. Low is much cooler for the motor on hills and uses far fewer watts.
We should put another 60 or so miles this weekend so I'll let everyone know the results. It is late spring here and the temperature is rising.
otherDoc
