I have the one that goes in to L above leval 5.No auto on 5."People don't want buttons" I still have 3 buttons.I might add another to turn the pedelec off,not getting on with that.That's not Xiongda's fault just my preference for throttle only.does anyone know what is making the noise when changing gear under load ?
2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
menvert
100 W
yeah just unplug pedalectriccraiggor said:
I have considered making a switch myself though.... because the way I set it PAS is too agressive, but it makes my accel limited by PAS level, which I likeThe noise is the clutch 'clacking' as it engages or disengages as it stops or changes direction, loudest when climbing in Low and let go of accelerator or switch to High... it is normal
the 48v controller has a much better Auto mode I found, but I do have the HAL switch, so probably not comparable to your situation.
It has to slow right down until it starts to struggle before it will change gear automatically. You need a hill with an incline of about 20%.craiggor said:
I have the same controller as you. I don't get any noise when it changes gear other than the clack when the motor changes direction.
Cheers,I'am just pulling the magnets away from the sensor until I fit a switch.I like it for going up long hills it saves my thumb.But on level 5 when doing a u turn for example just a touch on the pedals and your off,not nice with no brake cut outs.with you on the PAS limiting acceleration that will save on battery life I suppose.menvert said:yeah just unplug pedalectriccraiggor said:
The noise is the clutch 'clacking' as it engages or disengages as it stops or changes direction, loudest when climbing in Low and let go of accelerator or switch to High... it is normal
the 48v controller has a much better Auto mode I found, but I do have the HAL switch, so probably not comparable to your situation.
menvert
100 W
The other option is to add in the brake cut-offs yourself using reed/hall switches (like I did recently after blowing my hidden wire brake sensors)
If you have the KT controller, you might try playing with the PAS Options (P3 & C4) one time I got it in a usuful mode so the pas was quite gentle when pedalling slowly, but have since changed it so PAS display limits accelerator instead and unplugged PAS, I have cruise control for hills, but sometimes PAS is so convenient...
Hard to tell how it'll work with the non-gear switch model though.
If you have the KT controller, you might try playing with the PAS Options (P3 & C4) one time I got it in a usuful mode so the pas was quite gentle when pedalling slowly, but have since changed it so PAS display limits accelerator instead and unplugged PAS, I have cruise control for hills, but sometimes PAS is so convenient...
Hard to tell how it'll work with the non-gear switch model though.
menvert
100 W
EDIT: Argh, my bad, I had C5 = 08 (13A max) put it back to 10 = unlimited, I have torque again (I must have done that when I was limping home on the broken gears and forgot to switch it back)
knutselmaaster
1 kW
d8veh said:
Now I am confused, I received the following information :
Bonnie said:
Aren't you mixing them up D8ve?
Nice link to the manual.It's more informative than the one I got with the kit.like your switches,I have a pair of old cable brake cut off's.I will have a go at adapting them to my hydraulic disc brake levers.craiggor said:
menvert said:
knutselmaaster said:
Things are changing all the time. I have the KT controller on my bike, which works like I described above without the HAL switch. I have just received a new kit with a LS controller. It has a new display with a shiny metal bezel arround it that's the same size as the KT LCD3. There is no HAL switch with it, nor a connector for it, so it looks like they've abandoned the HAL switch. I've no idea how the new one works because I haven't tried it yet.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Thank you, I understand now.
As someone said before in this topic, it would be great if they made somekind of code to easily distinguish different models and combinations.
As someone said before in this topic, it would be great if they made somekind of code to easily distinguish different models and combinations.
menvert
100 W
Yeah, seems to be a poor progression to me I am glad I was able to secure my new 48v with HAL switch, but sounds like they wont supply them anymore... Not only that, with this 48v controller my Auto mode works really well, I use it alot now (the only reason I am switching into high manually now is because I broke my passive speedo so when I cut motor power it changes back to low because speedo now reads 0, even if I am coasting fast)
It sounds pretty inconvenient having to switch into 6/L for low range if you are riding around in level 1 or 2 especially with the not-very-responsive rubber buttons from the LCD3, they are going to need a better way if this is their future direction, maybe at least the LS screen has more responsive buttons?
I am glad I was able to secure my new 48v with HAL switch, but sounds like they wont supply them anymore... Not only that, with this 48v controller my Auto mode works really well, I use it alot now (the only reason I am switching into high manually now is because I broke my passive speedo so when I cut motor power it changes back to low because speedo now reads 0, even if I am coasting fast)It sounds pretty inconvenient having to switch into 6/L for low range if you are riding around in level 1 or 2 especially with the not-very-responsive rubber buttons from the LCD3, they are going to need a better way if this is their future direction, maybe at least the LS screen has more responsive buttons?
docnjoj
1 GW
Well more bad news. I just opened up my 2 speed and the gears busted again. This is the one I repaired after the same gear broke the first time. It is the sun gear with the central bearing. I have written to Bonnie and we shall see. In the mean time does anyone think I can run this motor with just the high speed gears? I really need 1 motor that works.otherDoc
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Bonnie assured me that the ones with HAL switch and auto shift will remain available.menvert said:Yeah, seems to be a poor progression to me
It sounds pretty inconvenient having to switch into 6/L for low range if you are riding around in level 1 or 2 especially with the not-very-responsive rubber buttons from the LCD3, they are going to need a better way if this is their future direction, maybe at least the LS screen has more responsive buttons?
Docnjoj, i personally would not risk riding it like that
If you have the same problem twice, with different gears, it appears to me that there is something causing the gear to break (contrarily to the thought there was a problem with the first broken gear)
Did you verify if your axle is straight, and if the hub is 100% round on the inside, where the lower gears reside?
I ask that because planetary gears wear and suffer a heck of a lot more if they get compressed and too loose once per revolution, at that speed.
docnjoj
1 GW
Good question,knutselmaaster! It was a stock motor with about 500 miles on it when it first failed. Xiongda sent me now gears and I rebuild it and started using it again. I failed after about 20 miles. I have a suspension trike and ride on smooth roads at about 15 mph. That axle is pretty thick and goes all the way through. So I really don't know. The sun gear is attached to a good sized bearing and the clutch is held in with a key. I suppose I should get another motor but what if that one also breaks?
A problem since I really like the motor.
otherDoc
Also those gears do not seem to show tooth wear. I'll clean the pieces up and get a photo tomorrow. They couldn't wear much in 20 miles. also this was on only 36 volts. I just put on the 44 volt LiPos.
A problem since I really like the motor.
otherDoc
Also those gears do not seem to show tooth wear. I'll clean the pieces up and get a photo tomorrow. They couldn't wear much in 20 miles. also this was on only 36 volts. I just put on the 44 volt LiPos.
menvert
100 W
docnjoj said:
I would think you can still use it, as long as you can keep the Sun gear bearing/clutch surface in place and if it can still maintain the same spacing along the shaft still minus any loose or obstructive plastic of course...
The trouble is that I think you'll find it's only the low speed gear that is remaining (more teeth on the outer gear = lower RPM)
After my gear replacement I have gotten another 320km out of it and feels good still, so it is puzzling as to what is causing yours to break so soon, your grease looks good, if the 3 plastic planet gears were touching the hub I am sure you'd hear it (and they'd get damaged, rather than the sun gear)
Did you put in a bushing on each side of the Sun gear when last assembled? I am pretty sure I had one on each side, if that was missing, maybe it'd build up friction too much, or is there anything protruding from the clutches that might have been digging into the plastic, causing it to shatter?
Otherwise as stated, maybe shaft, I can't think of a tricky way to test that, apart from pulling it out and sight it agains something straight, I don't think you can, or want to remove the coils...
This is good news at leastknutselmaaster said:
Just a bit of sideways thinking. There were lots of different software versions regarding the gear-change times and conditions. Maybe another controller would be better.
Yesterday I completed my 3000th mile on Xiongdas. I did 1000 miles on the mk1 36v with the controller shunt soldered up to 20 amps. I'm on my second 48v one after I cut the motor wire when I fell off on ice after about 1000 miles. I then did about 500 miles with a 36v one using the 48v battery and controller before putting in a new 48v motor. My journeys are quite hilly and my weight has averaged 100kg, so they didn't get an easy time.
I don't think there's anything inherently unreliable in the motors. My thinking is still that gear breakages are something to do with changeover times. None of my motors came from that period when there was a bit of experimentaion with them.
Yesterday I completed my 3000th mile on Xiongdas. I did 1000 miles on the mk1 36v with the controller shunt soldered up to 20 amps. I'm on my second 48v one after I cut the motor wire when I fell off on ice after about 1000 miles. I then did about 500 miles with a 36v one using the 48v battery and controller before putting in a new 48v motor. My journeys are quite hilly and my weight has averaged 100kg, so they didn't get an easy time.
I don't think there's anything inherently unreliable in the motors. My thinking is still that gear breakages are something to do with changeover times. None of my motors came from that period when there was a bit of experimentaion with them.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
I just thought of this, docnjoj;
You are riding a trike I believe.
I'm not familiar with them at all, but when you take a turn, isn't it so that the inside wheel is slowing down a lot and the outside wheel speeds up a lot? (Depending on distance between the wheels)
In a car there is a differential to cope with the sudden surge of resistance from the inside wheel, because it is devastating.
If I would motorise a tricycle I would certainly put the motor in the front wheel to counter this problem.
It is just a hunch, as I only have this thread as source of information, but it wouldn't surprise me if a hard turn could break the planetary teeth if the motor is in a "side" wheel...
You are riding a trike I believe.
I'm not familiar with them at all, but when you take a turn, isn't it so that the inside wheel is slowing down a lot and the outside wheel speeds up a lot? (Depending on distance between the wheels)
In a car there is a differential to cope with the sudden surge of resistance from the inside wheel, because it is devastating.
If I would motorise a tricycle I would certainly put the motor in the front wheel to counter this problem.
It is just a hunch, as I only have this thread as source of information, but it wouldn't surprise me if a hard turn could break the planetary teeth if the motor is in a "side" wheel...
Ykick
1 GW
knutselmaaster said:
This is a good hunch. IIRC, years back somebody post a pic of a cracked cover Q100 or similar from an off-road trike? Basically, the little geared motor was never intended or designed to survive lateral side loads that a trike can produce.
docnjoj
1 GW
Well this is certainly possible. My motor is on the rear of a tadpole full suspension trike. It does tilt a bit when cornering but I am no racer. I have had Bafangs on it with no problems. True the lateral forces are higher than a bicycle, but I don't corner at high speeds. It would be a shame if trikes were beyond the Xiongda's service rating. I have written to Bonnie and we will see.
otherDoc
otherDoc
docnjoj
1 GW
menvert said:
otherDoc
You could be right and the bigger intermediate gears could very well be the low speed since it would slow down the turning of the casing and wheel. Well I thought I had something but probably not. At least it is pouring rain again.
I did put the bushings back where they came from. The fact that it is the high speed gears being destroyed does say something. Those black intermediate gears on the high speed side I believe are steel, not plastic.
docnjoj
1 GW
Now that my brain started working again (I'm getting too old for Friday night Karaoke (sp?) and booze), I just got an email from Bonnie. I am thinking that there is a real lot of force on that central nylon gear in high speed mode. The planet gears are metal, and if you accelerate with the high gears in then it is probably easier to break that middle gear. The metal planet gears won't fail. We shall see.
otherDoc
otherDoc
